Expo, Day 2: Around the World in...13 Hours

I believe that on my second day in Expo, I claimed the ability to say that I’ve visited more countries than any Watson Fellow before me, and all without leaving my first project country. Okay, so visiting the pavilions is hardly the same as visiting the real countries themselves—for example, there were no Maasai in Kenya, though there was a (stuffed) lion and an empty boma, no Mounties in Canada, and no Hollywood or Mount Rushmore in America—but they do provide some insight into the countries they represent, and are a fun experience. Frankly, if the Expo is ever near you, I recommend going (Silicon Valley is preparing a bid for 2020) as it is a fun experience and a chance to get some exotic foods, exposure to some countries you may never have heard of, and a glimpse into the everyday life of other cultures and societies.

My second day started similarly to my first. I rose early and joined the throngs of people at Expo Park first to get a ticket for my second day and then to enter the park. With a little bit of knowledge under my belt, I planned which entrance to use this time and where to dash first, planning the best route to get to the front of the line in the UK Pavilion. As I mentioned in my last post on my first day at Expo, rather than bore everyone with a play by play of my pavilion visits, I will post thoughts on each in a different way after my final visit to Expo. Until then, I thought I’d mention some of the highlights and lowlights as they pertain to the pavilion experiences and the application of the theme of “Better City, Better Life.” Keep in mind these are just my opinions based on my impressions and expectations of the Expo.

Before I go into those highlights though, a general note on the pavilions. The messages of the pavilions vary greatly, some embracing the idea of “Better City, Better Life” wholeheartedly and in unique ways, and others failing to highlight the theme and instead using the platform as a chance to boost tourism and advertise the country on a world stage for investment and travel. I would generally say that many European countries fall into the former category and tend to project strong messages of sustainability and nature as being important for cities and quality urban life. On the other hand, most Central and South American and African countries fell into the latter category, likely because they have not yet developed to the point of having methods and technologies which can be exported to create better urban lives. Rather they rest on their natural beauty and integration thereof into the village and city environments as a platform for attracting investment and tourism. These pavilions read more as brochures with 3-D gimmicks rather than blueprints for the future, and this is understandable given their socioeconomic situation. Then there are pavilions which definitely tip their hat to the idea of “Better City, Better Life” but choose to do so in a way that may not have replicable messages for other countries and cities globally. I suppose they are accurately representing in many cases their pathway to better urban living, but I personally would rather have seen not just a showcase of their country but lessons that could be taken and applied to other locales. To me, that is the value of a venue such as the World Expo—best practices can easily be shared and viewed side-by-side and visitors can think about applying lessons across cultures simply as the walk through the various countries.

The Winners: The Best Pavilions I Visited

United Kingdom—This pavilion is one of the best for its sheer architectural impressiveness. I saw artist’s renderings of the building before visiting, and was impressed but skeptical that it could actually look like the depictions.

But in fact, it truly does.

The building is made of thousands of acrylic tubes which give it a hairball-like appearance that I really enjoy, but what is more impressive is the interior space of the pavilion. Its well-deserved moniker is "The Seed Cathedral" and frankly, it was a more reverent space, in my opinion, than many religious edifices. Even on a cloudy day, the interior is illuminated by thousands of points of light drawn in by the acrylic tubes for a truly awe-inspiring experience.

At the base of each acrylic tube is a set of seeds from a different plant creating what one visitor described to me as a “Noah’s Ark for plants.” Being surrounded by plant seeds forces visitors think about the plants around their own world and how they are disappearing from both urban and rural landscapes. The whole pavilion is dedicated toward the role of plants in society via more sustainable plastics and materials and in greening and cleaning cities. I must say it falls a bit short on this educational component which is restricted to signs next to plants tucked in nooks and crannies, but it is still one of my favorites for its architectural elements and use of natural light in such an innovative, awe-inspiring manner.

Norway—Take a trip along the fjords of Norway to learn how Norwegians live and die by the seas. This wood and canvas structure teaches of the challenges of living in a cold climate and the ways in which Norwegians have harnessed the power and bounty of the sea for food and life. Simultaneously, it serves as an example of a low energy-intensity structure using natural ventilation to its advantage. The construction also has less embodied energy than many of the other pavilions further making it an example of sustainability. My only complaint is that this is not discussed, even in the section of the pavilion which discusses climate change and its impact on the arctic to which Norway is rather close.

In its exhibits, the Norway pavilion showcases its natural environment and especially its relationship to the sea. Displays show Norwegians using the sea for food, sport, and even renewable energy via offshore wind. However one of my favorite displays was of a distributed water purification system that a Norwegian country has developed which is applicable in remote regions worldwide. The model in the picture below will be going to a village in India when Expo is over. This display combined with the idea of offshore wind and the low-energy pavilion are lessons that can be taken from the Norway pavilion and applied the world over, making it a great example of what the Expo should be about.

Belgium/EU—The combined Belgium/EU pavilion not only shows Belgium’s status as the geographic heart of the European Union, but it showcases some of the emerging sectors of importance in both this central nation and the EU as a whole. It talks about the EUs commitment to reducing greenhouse gases, shows off novel solar and biogas technology with displays teaching how these ideas are executed, and promotes the social importance of “Better City, Better Life” by highlighting as well Belgium’s technology in the realm of healthcare. The displays are informative, interesting, and show that the path to sustainability is possible not just for Belgium and Europe but for the rest of the world as well. It mentions what nations like China can do to adopt these technologies and move to a greener world as well as discussing Europe's path. And of course, it wouldn't be Belgium without a display on chocolate and the technology behind chocolate.

Singapore—Singapore's pavilion treats the theme of "Better City, Better Life" as harmony, literally. The idea of the first floor is making music that weaves all of the diverse backgrounds in Singapore together. They call it an urban symphony--a blend of cultures through which the city and environment beat with one heart. While the displays on this floor is interesting, and the theme is very artsy and well done, what ranks this pavilion among the best in my opinion is the movie on the second floor. Here, you learn about the challenges Singapore had to face in developing on a small island nation with limited resources. The decision makers in this process appear in the movie and talk at length about how through strong policies and smart engineering Singapore has been transformed into one of the leaders in sustainable development. The policy lessons are clear to viewer--change from the government through laws, policies, and codes is very important in effecting sustainability on the ground. In my opinion, some of the policies discussed in the Singapore video are very applicable to other societies. Policies governing pollution discharge, rainwater collection, and efficient development are effective not just on an island nation.

One other thing I really liked about the Singapore pavilion was its rooftop garden. Showcasing some plants from the country, it also puts into one's mind the idea of having the roof as a place of respite and a way to bring harmony between nature and man into the city. This idea complements the Chinese philosophy of man and nature as two important parts of the whole (I discussed this in my post on Chinese gardens) and is well-executed in this pavilion. It serves as an example not necessarily of the silver bullet for sustainable cities, but as one way to provide social and environmental significance to a roof--an otherwise empty space.

Countries Whose “Better City, Better Life” May Not Have Broadly Applicable Lessons

Cuba—The hedonist in me would like to say that this pavilion makes the highlight reel for “Better City, Better Life” but the more sensible side of me won out. Rather than focus on anything social, economic, environmental, or political, the brightly lit, festive Cuba Pavilion represents the country as a large fiesta featuring margaritas and mariachi, cigars and coffee. Great place to grab a drink and watch traditional cigar rolling, but not to learn about creating a better city or a better life going forward for Cuba or any other nation. Stop by if you’re dragging and need a caffeine boost or want to sip tequila as a respite from the sudden thunderstorm.

Venezuela—I don’t suppose I should have expected much from the pavilion of a country run by Hugo Chavez, but I figured I’d pay Venezuela a visit to see what they had to say. After passing through the forest of red panels and flags touting the strong oil-based trade relationship between Venezuela and China, I worked my way through a collection of video screens displaying how happy farmers are in the country as they toil on the fields and the joys of families living in Venezuela’s cities. Strangely, there is nothing about the nature of the country. This was all to introduce visitors to what the pavilion would like you to see as everyday life in Venezuela. Yet the themed part of the pavilion, the portion about “Better City, Better Life” was the large amphitheatre playing a video about Simon Bolivar and the revolution. Now I don’t know the exact accounts of Bolivar’s Revolution, but based on some of President Chavez’s recent actions, I find it hard to believe that this is a completely unbiased view of the history. But the message is clear—Simon Bolivar created a better city and better life for Venezuela which continues to today. So what lessons can we draw from this? I suppose Revolution is the way to create a better life for the common people, especially using Venezuela’s model. Hence why I believe the pavilion missed the boat on creating a message from which broad lessons can be drawn.

The sign below also made me wonder after reading articles like that linked above what kind of world it is talking about. For those who can't make out the words in the small picture, in English it reads "Another world is possible. And we are constructing it in Venezuela." True, but is the Venezuelan model of reconstructing history and the nation the one we want to follow? I question the model's applicable lessons in the vein of "Better City, Better Life."

Though I believe my favorite part of the pavilion was the outside plaza where I found the only mention of sustainability in the pavilion. Here a plaque proudly displays the message that Venezuela is a proud supporter of the Kyoto Protocol article that stipulates that developed countries should give aid, including food, to developing nations. This made me laugh and call even more into question the other “facts” I had read in the pavilion when I put it in the context of recent accusations that President Chavez let massive amounts of foreign food aid rot in Venezuela’s ports.

Perhaps I am too cynical. Below are some images of signs in the pavilion. I hope you can read the English text, if not, please let me know and I will find a way to post larger copies. Perhaps they will help you form your opinion on Venezuela's pavilion and not just take my own.

Iceland—Having spent time in this natural gem of a country during a six-week sustainability sojourn learning about renewable energy and researching waste heat to electricity methods, I was excited to see how Iceland would discuss its success in using 99% carbon-free electricity. During the 10 minute movie projected on 4 walls and the ceiling without narration, my excitement slowly turned to disappointment. Only one shot of the Krafla Deep Drilling Project was included, and one shot of a hydropower station. The rest of the movie, save for a couple of minutes shot in Reykjavik and one shot on a fishing boat, revolved around the volcanoes, glaciers, and waterfalls that lend the island nation its moniker of “The Isle of Fire and Ice.” My takeaway then for the theme: hope your country has some beautiful nature like Iceland because beautiful scenery is part of creating a better life. If you’re looking for messages that can be taken back to your own nation for application, unless you have gorgeous nature to show off, good luck implementing the Iceland Pavilion message.

My first day there was Iceland’s Pavilion Day, and my good friend President Olafur Ragnar Grimmson was in town to help kick off a forum on geothermal energy with experts from China and Iceland.

(Okay, so we’re not good friends, but I did actually meet him last summer.)

Such fora are much more helpful in building off of Iceland’s experience to create “Better Cities, Better Lives” and contain messages that can be applied broadly to many other nations. However from the Pavilion, you wouldn’t know it. Furthermore, unlike other countries, the pavilions of which demonstrate sustainable technologies, Iceland’s is (to borrow from Pomona College Professor George Gorse) a BBB—big bland building, or really a big bland box. It is a steel-frame, quick-construction box covered with a plasticized canvas exterior making it look like an ice cube. And to make the sustainability of it worse, it is kept at a chilly 22^oC, the temperature of an Icelandic summer, even when it is 40^oC or more outside. Maybe in Iceland where cooling can be accomplished on geothermal power that is alright, but here we’re talking about using natural gas and such a large cooling bill is racking up a substantial carbon footprint for Iceland.

United Arab Emirates—I don’t want to judge the UAE based on their pavilion as it is my next stop on my Watson Fellowship (and I know they are doing some really cool applicable sustainability initiatives), but I have to say that I was disappointed in the message of the UAE Pavilion as it applies to the theme of the Expo. On a side note, it is architecturally stunning--the sand dune facade made of triangular golden tiles that shimmer and change color slightly as you move is a great building. But the UAE Pavilion has a strong message of creating a “Better City, Better Life” through wealth from oil discovery and exploration and strong political leadership. While the latter creates an important point applicable to other nations, the majority of the three films in the pavilion focuses on the wealth of the UAE and the world class services the country now provides.

Only one line of the three narrated films was devoted to the Masdar Initiative, the new project near Abu Dhabi to create the world’s first carbon neutral city. Aside from that, the message was that building on strong leadership and money from oil, the UAE has rapidly leapfrogged into world leadership of services, tourism, and entertainment while retaining its cultural roots and identity. I don’t see too many lessons here that can be drawn for other countries in an age where declining oil production and higher costs of exploration are leading many experts to declare the end of oil is in sight. In my opinion, it would have been nicer to highlight more of the technologies and design ideas going into Masdar and other innovative building projects that could be applicable worldwide.

Other Notes and Musings

1. Food

For the foodies out there, Expo provides a cornucopia of cuisine. It seems every pavilion has its own café or restaurant that serves up a specialty or two from that locale. With the long days I had it was inevitable that I had to try some of these fares (I know—it’s a tough life) and I have to say, due to a combination of being the most inexpensive meal I found and a longing for travels gone by, I dined at the “Hakuna Matata” grill on an ostrich and pita wrap.

While delicious, I have to say it wasn’t the same as the African fare I like the best— Kenyan chapattis and cabbage, and Peter Saeta’s Togolese peanut sauce. But it still was a nice flavorful trip down memory lane. If African’s not your thing, how about Australian beef burgers, German Bratwurst, or seafood direct from Norway—that and more abounds at Expo!

2. The USA Pavilion

As an American, I had to go visit the home pavilion, and though it didn’t quite make my “Winners” list, I was still overall impressed with the USA effort. It is a series of three movies the first of which documents American citizens trying to say hello and welcome in Chinese, and failing miserably. It is rather humorous and in the end, they all get it. The second shows some corporations that are making a difference and highlights the importance of dreaming big to achieve cities of the future. The final motion picture is a 4-D show without words showing one girl’s trials and triumph in reclaiming a cornerpiece of New York for a community garden through the help of the other residents. While inspirational, it is the reason I left the US off of my “Winners” list. The message is clear—everyone can make a difference in bringing nature back to the city, and through concerted community action we can create better living spaces for all. However, though the message can be applied to other cities, I felt it failed to send a strong enough message about how we can create a better urban environment—rooftop and corner gardens aren’t enough—and focused too much on the plight of one girl in a fictional situation without spending enough time showing ways America can teach other nations and cities lessons from our experiences and struggles.

One other note about the Pavilion—the influence of Disney is evident from the moment you walk in. (Disney is one of the corporate sponsors) The queuing area could easily be the pre-show area for Captain EO or the Muppets 3-D, complete with the first movie while you wait to enter the theater and a spotlighted host welcoming you in a cheery voice to the Pavilion and joking with audience members before turning it over seamlessly to the video. At the conclusion, doors swing open and you slide (with the pushing and shoving crowd) into the first theater which reminded me in shape of the Hall of Presidents at Disney World, Florida (the movie has President Obama too). Again a spotlighted host welcomes you, closes the automatic doors, and turns it over to the movie. At the conclusion, more automatic doors, and a move into the 4-D theater which is merely an updated version of the Kodak Magic Eye Theater at Disneyland (I don’t know the current name, but it’s where Captain EO is shown) complete with misters, a vibrating floor, and 3-D screens. Finally, you exit into a gift shop and corporate sponsor display area, similar to the Star Tours exit. A very Disney experience, and appropriate for the USA Pavilion. Frankly, there are many pavilions that I think could learn from the USA and Disney experience to better understand crowd movement through their own spaces. After all, when Disney designed pavilions for the 1964 World’s Fair in New York that was the primary concern. In fact they were done so well, 4 of them became rides. It’s too bad I don’t see this pavilion living up to that achievement.

3. Cisco

I wanted to include Cisco above as one of the “winners” but chose instead to highlight them here since they are a corporate and not country pavilion. Cisco’s Pavilion is very inspiration, exciting, and gets to the point I mentioned in my previous Expo post about Expo having the opportunity to inspire young visitors to engage in science and technology to better their world. Cisco’s pavilion features a 3-D movie demonstrating how Cisco’s products can integrate into all aspects of the city environment to help optimize management of disaster mitigation (in this case a typhoon bearing down on Shanghai), medical information transfer and consulting (a woman enters early labor and her doctor is out of town), traffic management and accident response, and even communication for personal reasons (a man uses his phone and car systems to stop his beloved from getting on a plane for good). Though perhaps bordering on overdramatic, the technology showcased and the visions of the future portrayed can inspire many youngsters who get dragged over and away from the cooler country pavilion side of the river. The message here is clear—technology has a huge potential to more effectively manage cities to prevent loss of life, manage accidents and disasters, and even bring us closer together to create a “Better City, Better Life.”

Look for one last Expo post before my time in China is up. Here I chose not to detail any of the Urban Best Practices Area Case Study Pavilions (though many would make the winners list) because that will be the focus of my final post. And if you want to know more about the other pavilions not covered here, I’ll let everyone know when I have my full breakdown available online. Please remember that all of the above and everything in that breakdown is my own personal opinion and reading of the pavilions based on my expectations. Until then, I’ll leave you with a picture of myself in front of the most recognizable pavilion in China—the China National Pavilion.

One Other News Item

I don't normally post so frequently, but the ease of internet access in Hong Kong allows it, and I feel that this is interesting to share. As I've mentioned in some posts, there is a lot of optimism that if the government wants to move, they can do so swiftly and decisively. To support this, one needs look no further than more recent news. As I've heard time and again, residents here in China care a lot about their family's health and safety, and if you don't believe my anecdotal evidence, the milk scandal in 2008 is the perfect example of this. For those who don't recall or didn't hear about it in the news, in 2008 baby milk from several producers was found to contain a toxic chemical called melamine. Though six were arrested as a result, "'serious loopholes' in supervision and poor management by local authorities" were blamed for allowing the toxic chemicals to find their way into the milk, according to Xinhua News Agency. As a result, sales of imported baby milk rose and confidence in the Chinese dairy industry suffered.

It may have taken 2 years, but Beijing has responded decisively. A report from September 19 states that Beijing has approved the use of the death penalty for serious violators of food safety laws. Talk about decisive action--the death penalty is not something that could be used in these conditions in the US or in most other countries. I think of all countries in the world, only China can easily enact policies so strict and sweeping in scope without question or public backlash. Were similar (though maybe not as harsh) policies enacted for polluters, then there is hope for real change on efficiency and carbon mitigation in China. Many practitioners hope for such action, and coupled with Premier Wen Jiabao's admission I detailed in my previous post, I think there is the possibility for such laws to be seen following the new Five Year Plan. The precedent set by this new food safety law also demonstrates that when the public demands action through either economic power or outcry, the government here acts swiftly and strongly. It is evidence to back up the anecdotes and hopes of the optimists in the green building community. But before we all get too happy, remember that there must be either strong public support or documented risk to health for Beijing to act, at least if this precedent holds true.

Unfounded Optimism?

A brief post following something I read yesterday morning in the South China Morning Post in Hong Kong. As I've mentioned in other posts, many here are filled with optimism that China has the potential to lead the environmental movement going forward because of the centralized authority of the national government. In highlighting this ability, optimists generally point to the targets set in the 11th Five Year Plan to reduce energy intensity (energy use per unit of GDP) by 20% by 2010. Facing difficulties to meet the last bit of these targets, China's government ordered the shut down of more than 2,000 low efficiency steel and cement factories last month, effective during September. This may reduce production capacity in the short term, but in the long term it may both help meet the energy goals and increase efficiency and production at larger plants, providing economic benefits through lower operating costs and lower costs to consumers. However it will take time to build up the necessary efficient capacity.

However new doubts were cast on China's ability to meet its goals last week, according to the SCMP article, which highlights Premier Wen Jiabao's confession last week at the Global Economic Forum in Tianjin that in the first half of 2010, energy intensity actually increased. After posting reductions of 15.6% in energy intensity in the previous year, the latest numbers showed a setback in reaching the goals. This setback was attributed to the economic stimulus package of 4 trillion yuan (US$588 billion) which led to a rise in heavy industry plants. Despite this increase, Premier Wen said that China will "spare no effort in meeting" its lofty goal of 20% reductions by the end of the year, even at the expense of economic growth.

While this is cause for both skepticism and hope, some of the methods already being put in place across 8 provinces encouraged by the National Development and Reform Commission to take urgent action give reason for alarm. Governments in more than 20 provinces have ordered power cuts to steel and cement mills and other high-emissions industries. Some have even rationed power to schools, residents, traffic lights, and hospitals. These cuts go so far, the article continues, as to diminish fresh water supples because of the inability to run water pumps and the inability to use the toilet for the same reason in the town of Anping. Though the government has lashed out at Anping's government for such actions, it did not rule out the potential of using blackouts to meet the goals. Experts note that this imbalance is a sign of the government's need to reconsider how it balances energy conservation and economic growth going forward in the 12th Five Year Plan.

Personally, I think the biggest concerns here are that these last-ditch efforts to meet the goal and "save face" on the international stage (the concept of "face" is very important in China) are impermanent and will in the long run negatively impact the concept of energy conservation within the country and mar China's reputation internationally. The inconvenience and drop in standard of living and employment faced by many as a result of these will leave a negative impression of the idea of "energy efficiency" but more importantly creates unsafe conditions, even if temporary. And that is not to mention the fact that as soon as the numbers are crunched and the targets either met or not, the blackouts will likely unceremoniously end, thus boosting energy intensity once more. If they continue, the government risks turmoil over the permanently decreased standard of living in areas such as Anping. Finally, on an international stage, China has now set itself up for a situation where it cannot easily win. If they meet the targets via these methods, international organizations and leaders (such as WWF, which was quoted in the article) will realize the impermanence of these measures. These cuts will overshadow the investment in energy efficiency China has created in the last several years. Furthermore, should China announce that it has met its target, skepticism is likely over the calculation of these numbers. Following this admission of an increase, international bodies may rightly question whether a reversal of fortune and a subsequent decrease in intensity of 5% over the last half year is possible. Since the Chinese government will allow no independent auditing of their emissions achievements, international leaders are right to speculate over the accuracy of such a bold turnaround, should one be achieved.

Well, those are my thoughts. I think such news puts a damper on the optimism but is not a reason to throw up our hands yet. China still is positioned to alter its course in a way no other country has regarding sustainability. Perhaps if they fail to meet the targets, it will cause a rethinking on a holistic level of how to achieve sustainability in China. Rather than shrinking away from targets in the 12th Five Year Plan perhaps we will see a stronger target and a stronger resolve to meet it using truly efficient technologies. This would be a way for the Chinese government to save face should it fail to meet its goals by the end of 2010, and an encouraging sign for us all.

If you want to read more about Premier Wen Jiabao's announcement, you can access the SCMP article here (you may need to set up a free trial to read it unless you are a subscriber) or read similar announcements here and here.

Expo, Day 1: Better City, Better Life?

Last weekend I finally got a chance to go to Expo 2010. I had been intending to go ever since I arrived, especially since the theme, “Better City, Better Life” seems perfectly aligned with my research of sustainable cities and buildings. However the prospect of battling crowds of 400,000+ in the heat and humidity of August far from thrilled me, so I chose to gamble that with September, cooler weather and decreased crowds as children were corralled in school would make the experience more pleasant. I had intended to go during the week, but in a string of simultaneously good and bad luck, before I knew it, every single weekday in September had me either out of town or in a scheduled meeting, leaving only last weekend for Expo. (Though Expo is here until the end of October, I will not be, and I hear it will likely be more crowded as it draws to a close). Furthermore, since the forecast called for thunderstorms over the weekend, I figured it would be a perfect time to visit as locals would not want to be caught in the rain. Thus, I bought my ticket Friday evening for Saturday morning, and prepared myself, and my camera, for the long days ahead.

Haibao, the official Expo mascot sporting a cowboy outfit.

I have to pause here and thank both Harvey Mudd College and my wonderful Disneyland-loving friends for preparing me for Expo. If there is one life skill that HMC endowed me with above all others it is the ability to perform at or near my full potential on only a few hours of sleep and to repeat this feat ad nauseum if necessary. And for my friends, everyone told me that I should just get an evening pass to Expo (only $1 cheaper than a full day student ticket) because the crowds are smaller in the evening and I wouldn’t want to be walking around from 9:30 am until 10:30 pm. But little did they know that because of the Disney zealots in my circle of friends, I have been fully prepared for such days having spent 8 am to 1 am at Disneyland. So again, thank you to both groups for enabling me to make the most out of my Expo weekend.

At this point, I could continue the narrative and take you all through a pavilion-by-pavilion walkthrough of my day and my impressions of each as they pertain to sustainable cities, but considering the number of pavilions I visited, I think I will spare everyone the hours of reading required and instead give some general thoughts. For those interested in specific pavilions (or all of them) I am putting together a document with notes and thoughts on each for my own use that I will make available online when it is finished (which won’t be until after I get to Expo for one more day, so not until October or later).

What first shocked me was the sheer number of people in line at 7:30 in the morning for Expo. I had been told that you have to arrive early to get to some of the more visited pavilions, and given that Expo Park doesn’t open until 9 I thought that 7:30 might be early enough. Well, it turns out that serious Expo fans arrive around 4:30 and sit, sleep, or stand for the 5 hours until the pavilions start admitting visitors. This is because to get a reservation ticket to the China Pavilion (the only way to get in) you must be at the front of the line. So for an hour and a half, I found myself in a basement packed with visitors all waiting for the floodgates to open.

And I choose my wording carefully there because when the park finally did open, a torrent of people rushed through, fanning out across the park. Many ran, many walked, and a few dawdled about awed by the massive scale of the pavilions around them, but the result was as if a sea of people had been unleashed on already wet ground. As it turns out, for all of my scheming and planning, the crowds which all of September had been around 250,000 surged on this day to 450,000, resulting in the torrent I describe. Hurriedly walking and trying to orient myself on the map, before I knew it I found myself trapped in the line for the Saudi Arabia pavilion which before 9:30 in the morning already stretched more than 5 hours long. Quickly exiting, I decided to spend my day in shorter lines. This was not the first time I saw lines so long—throughout my weekend Germany, Coca-Coil, the Oil Companies, and GM/SAIC all had lines of over 4 hours. Even Cisco at one point was listed as greater than 4 hours, though that was a complete lie—it was only 45 minutes (I know because I was in it).

So those were my first impressions of Expo. Now for the pavilions. I spent most of my first day in the Theme Pavilions, which are meant to depict the idea of Better City Better Life, and in the Urban Best Practices Area, a showcase of excellent city strategies from around the world for creating better cities. I have to say I was impressed with the displays I witnessed here. The Theme Pavilions provided an educational experience about ideas ranging from environmental impact to the concept of an ideal city. From my architecture classes, I recognized depictions of Ebenezer Howard’s Garden City, Le Corbusier’s utopian visions, Da Vinci’s ideal water city, and others. The displays did a good job of pulling key points from each that still offer hope and promise for the future—easy transport, mixed use structures, low energy consumption, freedom from pollution, and open, natural space to name a few. Combining these ideal visions with lessons from the other Theme Pavilions about what we have done to the environment (a few pictures of the displays are below) both portrayed a sobering picture of human environmental impacts and planted the seeds of hope that things can change.

A classical city display showing daily life in Rome or Greece.

A room made of common materials, in this case doors. The theme was showing what actually makes up the city, so houses of cardboard, plastic, and other objects were constructed.

Taps comparing the amount of water used by different countries per capita.

Samples of trash discarded into oceans.

The pavilions sought to educate visitors about the methods by which we can reduce our environmental impact and sprinkled informative displays about new technologies around artsy centerpieces designed to inform visitors of the magnitude of our impacts. Interspersed with all of these were little easy tips on how you can save the earth. I know that some political scientists will shudder at the thought that Expo, a showcase on how to create a better city, would purport that the keys to sustainable cities lie in individual action. Certainly it is true that the Theme Pavilions of Expo neglected the role of laws and change at higher levels which in reality are needed for truly sustainable future cities to be achieved. Yet despite this failure, a combination of facts leaves me hopeful that Expo really can have an impact going forward in China. First, in general the level of awareness of issues of environment and sustainability is low in China. People are acutely aware of those issues which impact them on a daily basis—air pollution and water pollution—but don’t understand the causes. There is a lack of understanding about how to close the loop, what causes pollution and what drives those causes. Citizens here act when they can see a direct benefit to their health or the health of their families, and by teaching about the role of clean energy in preventing illness and death and the impact that can be obtained by minimizing driving, the level of awareness increases and the possibility for solutions at the individual, corporate, and even government levels grows.

Second, raising this level of awareness and education is critical in China for action to be taken from the government level. The government here is driven by a desire to increase its influence and share of the global marketplace and a desire to maintain control over the population at the national level. Change from within is possible here if the government senses enough interest in a topic that failure to act could cause political unrest. The people by and large expect the government to take care of them in matters of social welfare and health, and if enough realize that coal power and inefficient systems are causing a decline in the overall health of their families, then it could lead to action. Let me pause though and say that it is still a long way before health and safety issues driven by climate change are at the forefront of citizens’ minds. So here, pressing renewable energy is much more plausible from an air pollution, mining destruction, and water pollution standpoint. These are issues people are beginning to see and care about and issues on which the government is beginning to be forced to take action, though it is a tight line to walk to balance pollution and development.

The last reason I am hopeful is that the displays were truly inspiring and thought-provoking. Even the artsy pieces did make you stop and think about what the Earth is beginning to look like and what cities of the future could look like. They integrated new technologies, cool ideas, and fun demonstrations to show how life could be powered on renewable energy, how we can integrate nature effectively into the city, and what could happen should we fail to accept the challenge of moving toward a more sustainable future. I have long felt that presenting these concepts in a manner that pushes visitors to think and imagine what is possible in an environment that makes it seem cool and fun to be interested in science, and in this case sustainability, is a good way to create the next generation of leaders in the field. For instance, I wonder how many future scientists were influenced to that career path after experiencing Tomorrowland at Disneyland in the 1950s and 1960s, where the future was cool and fun to be a part of. Maybe Expo has the same effect with its movies and displays—encourage people to think about what they can do, and hope enough of them realize the scale at which they must act to effect real change.

A bike-riding simulator. Explore the streets of Europe on a bike at Expo!

Energy networks of the future in a green glow.

A cityscape of plants.

These concepts keep me hopeful that Expo can have an impact in China. However, simultaneously I am not optimistic after having spent time there and interacted with other visitors and the space of Expo Park. One of the first things to deflate my optimism is the fact that I may have been the only person out of the 450,000 at Expo last Saturday reading the signs and displays. A vast majority of visitors seemed interested only in looking for a brief moment at the displays that were visually interesting en route to the interactive exhibits, spots to hold up the peace sign and snap a quick photo, and ultimately, the Expo Passport stamp desk. This last destination is a hallmark of Expos worldwide where visitors can pay for a passport and then have it stamped at each pavilion to commemorate their visit. Yet for many in the park, it seemed not like a fun memory collection but rather a goal—get through the pavilion, get to the stamp, and get in the next line to get more stamps—gotta catch ‘em all! So the question was raised in my mind of how much these creative, thought-provoking displays actually impacted the visitors? Some pavilions tried to hold their viewers captive and force them to watch a movie about the topic, but some visitors still slipped right through the theater and avoided the movie all together (a minority, but still some).

My second pessimistic point is the mere distribution of visitors. By the time I arrive in the Urban Best Practices Area, it was all but deserted. I walked through pavilion after pavilion documenting innovative city strategies for increasing social and cultural activities, reducing environmental impacts, and demonstrating innovative technologies without waiting in any lines, and in some pavilions without meeting another visitor. Now to be fair, many people were already heading home for the day, but it was still absolutely deserted in this area which arguably best epitomizes the theme of Expo. The fact that it is tucked away in a corner far from anything else doesn’t help increase visitorship—the organizers of Expo perhaps didn’t think that the paragon of their theme was important to showcase front and center or didn’t realize the role of placement in visitorship. Or maybe they just wanted all of the countries to be near one another, which meant being near China which of course is prominent as you walk in. And though you may say that there is hope when Cisco, Oil, and GM/SAIC have the longest lines, in reality this is because of the 4-D 360^o viewing experiences and cool demonstrations involved. While I’m sure some people walk away from this with the intended message of the films and experiences, others may be wowed merely by the technology and miss the message of the pavilion. I’d like to think that on some level these viewers are left with the message of the pavilion, but when you ask others which pavilions to visit, they almost inevitably highlight the coolest technologies and displays and not the substance or content.

Even the theme pavilions were fairly empty when I visited. On a day when lines stretched up to 6 hours for other displays and 450,000 were packed into Expo Park, at the peak hours of the day I was able to walk into the theme pavilions uninhibited or at most forced to wait for 15 minutes in a line. Compared to the waits for smaller country pavilions, these times were minimal.

The last observation that made me unhopeful for the future impact of Expo was perhaps the most disheartening. Walking around among the pavilions, the only indication I found of implementing the theme of “Better City, Better Life” in the Expo grounds was a proclamation in the men’s room stating that the paper towels were made from recycled paper, thus drastically reducing the number of virgin trees cut to enable people wiping their wet hands. Now, I know that some of the pavilions are quite advanced in their environmental technologies—Canada for instance collects rainwater through the wooden slats of the building skin and Ireland uses a double skin façade. Even the main Expo walk uses large decorative funnels to help naturally cool the basement areas, thus reducing the need for air conditioning, and all of the pavilions are cooled by Broad’s non-electric air conditioning technology. Yet none of this is mentioned or displayed anywhere visible to the casual observer. In fact, even if you look for information on the pavilions, there is none to be found (I tried). As an architect I met with confirmed, he wouldn’t have known about some of the innovative sustainable features of the pavilions had he not received a private tour. So here, in Expo Park, is the perfect opportunity to exemplify sustainable buildings, put them on display for the world to see, and mandate that the Expo itself be a microcosm of a global “Better City” with a “Better Life” and the opportunity is completely lost. Where new technologies are in place in the Park, they are kept hidden from the visitors, even those seeking them out. Yes it’s true that the pavilions themselves showcase some technologies within, but they ignore the buildings housing them and leave the untrained eye to regard them not as a work of sustainability but one of architecture only.

Canada's wooden-clad pavilion.

The Ireland Pavilion with it's grass wall and double-skin facade.

The funnels for helping with natural ventilation in the basement levels of Expo walk

The funnel from above.

After my visit, I was thus left with the dilemma of what impact the Expo will really have on its visitors. At once it is inspiring and hopeful while simultaneously failing to take full advantage of its position on a national and global stage to showcase itself as the future of our cities. The optimist in me hopes that the Expo will yet serve for China as the proving grounds for technologies like non-electric air conditioning, solar power, and passive design, but the pessimist thinks that unless the government is taking significantly more notice of these technologies than the average visitors, such ideas are likely to fly under their radar. It will remain to be seen what lessons China, and the world, take from Expo 2010. I want to leave with one final though, however, on sustainability at Expo, and that is this: how “sustainable” can the Expo truly be when all of the buildings save five will be torn down after only 6 months of operation? Is there a better way to reintegrate these structures into an example of a “better city” and a “better life”?

Shades of Shanghai, Part 3: Raindrops on Roses

This is (I promise) the last of the three part "Shades of Shanghai" post. The previous two talked about the old and new parts of Shanghai and some of the sustainability challenges I have come across in my exploration of them. This focuses instead on some thoughts and impressions of Shanghai. For those who may have gotten excited when reading the title, this is not about botany or Julie Andrews musicals, but instead about My Favorite (and Least Favorite) Things. Frankly, I hadn't given much thought to what I like most about China until the question was asked of me by a good friend a couple of weeks back. After thinking about it more, I thought I'd share some of the highlights.

So let's start with the good:

1. Walkability

After growing up in Los Angeles, the car capital of the world, it is refreshing to live in a city where it is easy and safe to walk everywhere that your feet can take you. Personally, I enjoy spending the hour to get to the French Concession or the Bund when I have meetings in those parts of town. It allows me to see more of the city, and especially the parts that aren't frequented by tourists trying to take my picture (more on that later). And when the distance is just too far...

2. Great Public Transit

The Metro here will take you just about anywhere you need to go for less than US$1. It is fast, on-time, and cleaner than any other light rail or subway I've ever traveled. Just avoid rush hour if you can unless you like being packed like a sardine in a car to the point where you have to surge with the masses into and out of the cars and hope that enough of the mass is leaving at your stop that you can squeeze your way out of the car. But hey, if you're an optimist and environmentalist like me, just take this as a sign that public transit is alive and well here and that each person that pushes you toward the corner of the train is one less person riding someone's bumper on the highway.

3. Food

If there is one thing I've learned here it is to trust the Lonely Planet on matters of food. If it says to try a restaurant, do it. every time I've taken it's advice it's been right on. So far, my top three are:

Louweilou, Hangzhou

Braised pork chunks featuring everything from the meat through the fat up to the skin in a unique sauce served only in Hanghzou are the highlight at this restaurant overlooking West Lake. I had it with rice and pumpkin and it was absolutely delicious. The meat just melted in my mouth and was flavorful and succulent.

Grape Restaurant, Shanghai

Located down in the French Concession near an old church, the highlight of Grape is the Youtian beef. Beef soaked in a sweet sauce is paired with fried dough chunks (elongated donut holes with a crispier exterior) and rice, of course, for a wonderful meal. An excellent, rich sauce with a nice aftertaste for a great price (about US$4).

Yang's Fry Dumplings, Shanghai

If you go to China you have to try dumplings, and in Shanghai, you have to try Yang's. Served hot from the stove sprinkled with chives and sesame seeds, these cheap snacks are a nice mix of tender seasoned meat and dough. Just be careful not to let the juice inside squirt when you bite in and burn your upper lip (I speak from experience--it's not pleasant, though the dumplings still taste just as good).

While those are so far my three favorites, one of my favorite experiences here is going into a restaurant with no English on the menu, pictures or a posted menu on the wall, and just pointing to something, handing over the right amount of money, and waiting for what will come. I know what the characters for beef, pork, rice, and noodles are, so I figure as long as I know what type of meat I'm getting and if it's over rice or noodles, the rest doesn't matter as much. So far the strategy has worked well--there's even a place nearby where I live where they recognize me and make me feel right at home even though we have no way of verbally communicating to one another.

4. Nightlife

There are lots of places to go in Shanghai in the evenings to party or to relax. I'm not much one for clubbing, but I did get out one night to a Shanghai club at the insistence of my roommate, and I loved it. You sit down at a table with a big bottle of whiskey and a mixer, in this case green tea (which, by the way, is an excellent combination) and talk, play dice games, and enjoy your company. When you want to get up and dance, your table is saved for you, providing a much needed break from the heat of the dance floor. If clubbing isn't your scene, then try Xintiandi, an expat favorite, where cafes, bars, and restaurants occupy old shikumen houses and create a nice place to relax and spend an evening among the bustling shoppers and diners. Perhaps my personal favorite though was sitting on Cloud 9 in the Jin Mao Tower and watching the sun set on the city while sipping your drink of choice. It is an excellent view and atmosphere, and a nice way to unwind after a long week.

5. The People

As a 6'1" white guy with red hair and blue eyes I tend to stick out just a little bit here. And when I'm spotted by Chinese who speak English, that means a chance to practice. Often they are fun conversations that last only as long as we happen to be walking the same way, but they are nice to get to know a bit about some of the faces I see pass by. And it's nice to make friends even if for so brief a time.

6. The Gardens

Though not very prevalent in Shanghai, as you might have guessed from a couple of my posts I have come to love Chinese gardens and embrace the philosophy behind them that all of the elements of nature--earth, water, plants, animals, and humans--exist together without one dominating the other. The manifestations of this philosophy are absolutely gorgeous gardens which reveal different vistas to you at different points on your walk, adding an air of mystery that I enjoy. I really wish there were more in Shanghai I could frequent just to relax during the weeks.

7. The Diversity of Scenes

As you may have gathered from my previous two posts, I love learning about the city and all of its different sides. From the historic Bund and the opposing futuristic neon towers of Pudong to the brand names of Nanjing Rd. and the restored shikumen of Xintiandi, I enjoy having the city morph around me as I walk. There are time when you seem just to pop out of an alley into a bustling commercial center as if into a whole new world. It adds excitement to any exploration of the city.

Those are some of my favorite things here, so now onto some of the less savory aspects of this big city because, let's face it, every city has its good and bad.

1. The Drivers

I love to walk everywhere, but have to be careful crossing streets. I don't think red lights really mean anything here, especially if you're on a scooter. Drivers go wherever cars are not, meaning that they cross center lines, move unpredictably into turn lanes, swerve around other cars to make turns from inappropriate lanes, and most importantly, don't care whether you are on foot or not--if you're in their way you had better move. The strange thing is that pedestrians and scooters who invariably would lose in collisions have the same mentality. Scooters especially are fond of going the wrong direction and running red lights. That seems a dangerous practice to me. But don't worry--I've only almost been hit once or twice. I'm limber enough to get out of the way quickly, and smart enough not to get in the way too often.

2. The Tourists

Now here I'm not talking about foreigners, because then I'd have to dislike myself. Within a day of being here, I experienced a phenomenon I hadn't known even in Africa--people want to take a picture with me just because I'm white. I've been told that many tourists to Shanghai from the Western parts of China have never seen a white guy before and so I'm a novelty. At first it was kind of fun--I felt like a celebrity. Now, it's a bit tiresome, especially when people don't ask and think instead that they can snap a clandestine photo of me by pretending to be interested in the railing of the bridge or the wall behind me. You can tell by the sheepish look on their face when you wheel around and catch them in the act what they are up to. I always oblige and let them take the photo, but often I get asked when all I want to do is sit by a pond or rock and relax lost in thought and that bothers me a bit.

3. The Prevailing Mentality

It seems here that everyone is out to advance their own personal interest only, and that means in every facet of life. This manifests itself to me in the way people drive (as discussed above) but also in cutting lines, shoving to get on subways and up escalators, and (though not visibly of course) in corruption and an unwillingness to invest in long-term efficiency because it won't manifest itself as savings during your political term and therefore won't help you get promoted. I don't know if this is a left over mentality from the great famines and shortages of the Mao era where if you didn't think about yourself only you might not live another day, or how it has come about, but I wish it would be relaxed a bit.

4. Brown Water

Don't worry, the tap water is not brown--it's nice and clear (but still don't drink it). No, what I mean here is the color of the river water. I guess it's for the best that you can't go on deck on the ferries because I don't think anyone wants to be splashed with that water. Personally, I think it detracts from the beauty of the city across the river and is a sign of environmental degradation. They're trying to improve it, so let's hope it works.

5. Smoking and Spitting

A large number of people here smoke, and many men and some women have a wonderful habit of gathering up all their mucus and letting it go on the sidewalks and streets. As much as I love to sit at outdoor cafes overlooking commercial streets when I work, sometimes the smoke gets so bad I have to go inside or leave. But that is what is popular and cool here. And then when I walk home, or anywhere, it is rare to have a long segment without overhearing someone send a big wad of spit to the ground. What baffles me most about this the fact that because many street vendors don't give you napkins, people carry tissues, but the only time I've seen them used is when people need to spit on the subway. Then they spit into the tissue after making all the associated noises.

6. Umbrellas

OK, I don't hate umbrellas, but here everyone uses them whether it's sunny or rainy. And being just a bit tall for the streets of Shanghai, the little pointy metal parts of the umbrellas which are safely above the heads of the rest of the pedestrians are comfortably at eye level. I have to constantly dodge getting poked in the eye. I guess it makes walking an adventure and keeps me awake!

Well, that's about it I believe. I hope that these three lengthy posts have given everyone an idea of what my environment is like, what I enjoy most and wish I could change about Shanghai. I hope also that they have provoked some thoughts on sustainability in this fascinating and unique place. As always, if you have any comments or questions, please comment or e-mail me (rob.best13@gmail.com) and I'm happy to respond! Since I don't know how to respond directly to comments, I typically post below the question, so if you feel as though I've neglected you, check below the comment you left, and if I still neglected you, I apologize--life can be busy here.