tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-90706528982335544292024-03-13T16:27:34.572-07:00Sustainable Buildings and Cities Around the WorldRob Besthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09463964785697202357noreply@blogger.comBlogger51125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9070652898233554429.post-71112972136186256192011-07-29T07:18:00.001-07:002011-07-29T07:36:47.960-07:00On Safari<div style="text-align: left;">I figured after my adventure in Mumbai that I couldn’t leave India without trying to see a tiger. After all, I had been able to see lions on <a href="http://hmckenya.blogspot.com/">my previous trips to Kenya</a>, so it only seemed fitting. So after a week back in Delhi, I pulled together a last minute trip to the Wildlife Reserve at Ranthambhore to go tiger spotting.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"> <p class="MsoNormal">However, before I talk about that, I want to discuss a crazy experience in Delhi the night that I left for Ranthambhore. It so happened that on this evening, <a href="http://robswatsonadventure.blogspot.com/2011/07/visit-from-old-friends.html">Andrew and Alan were in town</a> (Delhi, this time) and were absolutely eager to see me and treat me to dinner. I was only too happy to oblige, but unfortunately had already planned to attend an environmental lecture that evening at the <a href="http://www.indiahabitat.org/main.htm">India Habitat Centre</a>. Being the environmentally-conscious citizens that they are, Alan and Andrew thought it might be fun to attend as well and that afterward we could all grab a bite together. So I met them at their hotel and proceeded together to the India Habitat Center.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Now when I had planned on attending this event, all I knew was from a blurb forwarded me by my friend David. David didn’t know the speaker personally but thought I might be interested. The blurb said this was the launch of a new environmental movement in India called the “Tao of Green.” Interested since it invoked a philosophy that I had come to know in China, I thought it might be worth my attending to learn a bit about environmental movements in India (a nice complement to the green building research). Based on my enthusiasm, Andrew and Alan joined me.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">From the first moments, we sensed this would not be quite what I had expected. We entered the room to hear the sounds of Bob Marley and other hits of the 1970s with the Windows Media Player Visualizer filling the projector screen. Though I recognized a face or two from my previous environmental conferences in Delhi, the crowd was mostly dressed down and relaxed. Few seemed to be of any high importance in the Indian environmental scene. The man running the show bounced excitedly around in his ragged jeans, slippers, and shawl reminiscent of those from South America. His overexcited nature belied either a great nervousness or something else.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">When finally the hour struck to begin the meeting, he had to be prodded to get going. Otherwise, I think he would have fiddled with his computer and the microphones endlessly. He turned his bloodshot eyes to the crowd and excitedly began asking the audience for their suggestions on what to do about the environment, the lack of social infrastructure in India, and basically solutions to the problems caused by the corrupt Indian government. The bewildered audience which had been expecting a presentation of some sort just stared back until another member politely suggested that he explain why we were all here before demanding we overthrow “the man” and solve all of India’s problems through a new social order. Accepting the request, the man called up his panel of speakers and introduced each. That was the end of what I can even begin to call the “normal” part of the evening.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">At this point, an audience member stood up and began yelling that one of the panelists was a fraud, liar, and undeserving of sitting on any panel anywhere. He claimed that the panelist had failed to pay his rent for years and as such was undeserving of the praise heaped on him from the organizer of the evening. In the five minutes that followed, a heated argument ensued in which the accused sat smugly, the accuser shook with rage as he yelled his accusations and held up incriminating documents, and the host had to be physically restrained in his violent retorts that nearly came to blows. The accuser was finally escorted from the room and calm ensued, but not before several others had discreetly found the exit. We wished later we had been among them.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">As a sense of disquieted calm returned to the evening, the presenter turned once more to explaining his movement. With the accompaniment again of Mr. Marley, Queen, and others, he began a slideshow with images and headlines meant to shock us into revolution against India and the world. Claims of climate change, corruption in schools, failing grades, and a downfall of the economic system flashed on the screen as the presenter bounced along with the music, shifting from side to side, and occasionally throwing out a short rant to accompany a slide. When it was all over, I glanced from Andrew to Alan as I thought to myself, “What have I gotten us into?”</p> <p class="MsoNormal">At the end of this, a few more people found the door while others stared blankly at the presenter again imploring us to offer thoughts and solutions to his new movement and creation of a new social order. He even asked us directly for an American viewpoint. Not wanting to be associated with this at all, we just shook our heads. An audience member again implored him to explain what it all meant. He defended his slides, saying that they were presenting the problem and later he would show his solution—the Tao of Green. After a heated debate on the use of the word “Tao” in the name of the movement that resulted in several more audience members leaving, I had to excuse myself to take an important phone call from the University of Michigan.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">When I finished, I found Andrew waiting for me outside the hall. He had excused himself to the toilet and did not want to return. He sent me in to collect Alan so we could head to dinner. I crept back in to find Alan sitting in a shocked stupor at the crazy and often idiotic events unfolding before him. Tapping him lightly and signaling the door, he was only too happy to leave, and soon we were off to dinner at the American diner near the Habitat Centre. I found out later that while I was outside, the presenter had showed his solution through several more nonsensical slides that amounted to nothing except damning the current global geopolitical order, if, that is, you could apply any theme to his rants and images. I felt bad for subjecting my friends to this horrid evening, but soon we were all laughing about it while sitting in the neon glow of a 50’s diner in the heart of Delhi.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The presenter contacted me a few days later via e-mail. When I asked him to remove me from his e-mail list, he messaged me directly in a very defensive mood. After calling me a product of the system, saying that my friend David who had referred me to the event would be ashamed of me, and telling me that I was closed-minded and ignorant, he somehow had a change of heart and invited me to his home. I declined, blocked his screen name, and reported all of his messages as spam. I found out later that he doesn’t even know David—the e-mail was sent to David through some list serv. I don’t know what is wrong with this man, how many drugs he was on that night or the night he messaged me, or what he thinks he will accomplish with his ranting and images (his rants, by the way, continued in daily e-mails culminating in one that claimed the Fukushima earthquake and tsunami were products of global warming instigated by the malicious actions of current world leaders), but I hope he never includes me again in any of it.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">After that interesting evening and a nice dinner, however, I was off to the train station for an overnight ride to the Ranthambhore National Park in Rajasthan. Though not the best place for tiger spotting in India, it is the closest to Delhi and with my limited time, the only one I could book easily. I arrived in the wee hours of the morning and was picked up and transferred to my hotel by the company through which I had booked my safaris. To maximize my chances of seeing the beautiful yet elusive beast, I booked on four trips—morning and evening each day—with another overnight trip back to Delhi on Sunday.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The first ride began shortly after sunrise as I was picked up by the lorry—a vehicle for 16 people. We headed into the game park and turned onto one of the paths set out for vehicles. The rules there were quite strict—unlike in the African game parks I visited, each lorry was assigned one route on which it could drive and one route only. So if a tiger was on another road, too bad. It was a matter of luck as to which route you were assigned too, so no trying to guess where the tiger will be based on where he was before. Each ride was only 2 hours as well and then you had to leave.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Riding through the jungle was fun though and we saw plenty of birds, monkeys, and deer. At first these interested us, especially when the birds would come down to perch on the top of the lorry’s windshield providing for close-up pictures. We even ran across a couple of crocodile sitting in the lake waiting for the sun to warm their cold-blooded bodies. However these animals soon seemed old to us as we thirsted for the sight of a leopard, or better yet, a tiger. As we turned around, however, it seemed luck was not with us. We left the park and though every pair of eyes in the car strained for a dash of orange in the reeds, it was not to be found. Our eyes only picked up what you see below.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSBVsfqbx_mvWcs3YQXaIPUDvqT_OaYsPtrZsN-fuibC6Ev0Dft44GJ8zcQysgLDLuI_ucfLlOJqZWiivFX1tu85He6p3vzp2n3iXga2Tdmu9hICIG40raTjMSYxgyCLXIUCFBK1GZuKc/s1600/P1060927.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSBVsfqbx_mvWcs3YQXaIPUDvqT_OaYsPtrZsN-fuibC6Ev0Dft44GJ8zcQysgLDLuI_ucfLlOJqZWiivFX1tu85He6p3vzp2n3iXga2Tdmu9hICIG40raTjMSYxgyCLXIUCFBK1GZuKc/s320/P1060927.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5634778983244829922" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn9SZZ2L-XB4fV_bNZ_JIDvPmWRfbEdZCR5_5u2aY95nwKQxZsgr7fSPx6oeO7HCGivgXxvvHVVkihtVXSvtNYVV9_HeWS-Z0gHKyHdkr9G_ixEh4hrCPmD3hkLWSTOvqnINV5clkFpXI/s1600/P1060939.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn9SZZ2L-XB4fV_bNZ_JIDvPmWRfbEdZCR5_5u2aY95nwKQxZsgr7fSPx6oeO7HCGivgXxvvHVVkihtVXSvtNYVV9_HeWS-Z0gHKyHdkr9G_ixEh4hrCPmD3hkLWSTOvqnINV5clkFpXI/s320/P1060939.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5634778977132211154" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8XglsSKREkk8fl8BVuwaUdWCqqSzSaCeDpZ3eSrr99IRodCcSvaTt0r29FGLXHMbkujfcu5nZaRA3aBlRtCqTSghk0oMDcgvooOWMq6GKe_9M2d4XKUOWwyul_BFfgGsIezaixSXpiXc/s1600/P1060947.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8XglsSKREkk8fl8BVuwaUdWCqqSzSaCeDpZ3eSrr99IRodCcSvaTt0r29FGLXHMbkujfcu5nZaRA3aBlRtCqTSghk0oMDcgvooOWMq6GKe_9M2d4XKUOWwyul_BFfgGsIezaixSXpiXc/s320/P1060947.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5634778979208604146" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidV8RkNrT90RSSmskS-QJX6uI5_hHw-Vbix5gDn6Bf_6luAgk8t9NpQYCxz-HOzl7T7TsoBOeJ640AykRXACJHB32DeSwkbwMng3FoMPHfScbcfHBnJPMn-igDVR51FrksNRLD6lzZw9Y/s1600/P1060954.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidV8RkNrT90RSSmskS-QJX6uI5_hHw-Vbix5gDn6Bf_6luAgk8t9NpQYCxz-HOzl7T7TsoBOeJ640AykRXACJHB32DeSwkbwMng3FoMPHfScbcfHBnJPMn-igDVR51FrksNRLD6lzZw9Y/s320/P1060954.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5634778975147701170" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdsEAH2XzpFvMsyPIhrT3oh7q7jlbgxyX6lzwgR4daZ0Vg1gaoz52sqhF37r069wNaUZKaeOlMeqQ-C-z9uyDhwmP0aKS8KWmd16kRT8Cg1lYB2YubDzWAVXSHeYwKFjJFuILDvtALO2M/s1600/P1060957.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdsEAH2XzpFvMsyPIhrT3oh7q7jlbgxyX6lzwgR4daZ0Vg1gaoz52sqhF37r069wNaUZKaeOlMeqQ-C-z9uyDhwmP0aKS8KWmd16kRT8Cg1lYB2YubDzWAVXSHeYwKFjJFuILDvtALO2M/s320/P1060957.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5634778969181221618" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVamx53Pjom7HoECUxOh9EvHweCH14v4cCbmaialmy3ktRNKgHR4vTK4AKtDTDumCEi2OjnG5dB6B2TZcAfcltIinFnkNaI8FBGE26ERNROC7QQXaLoFTuOay_hT3sPT1KVLjyhGevwOU/s1600/P1060990.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVamx53Pjom7HoECUxOh9EvHweCH14v4cCbmaialmy3ktRNKgHR4vTK4AKtDTDumCEi2OjnG5dB6B2TZcAfcltIinFnkNaI8FBGE26ERNROC7QQXaLoFTuOay_hT3sPT1KVLjyhGevwOU/s320/P1060990.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5634779450314929442" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1eR_W7svUCS4kAHv_GgfbR9eJWTo1MD9CsQt1RfXKFQH4yppQZAwno5fO1CH1MitqVh6691B7FbYfrGTjcfTeT2f_2gxehiJCT3sw1WTEacqMDLiHpAYI0_8C6mDAx0frX83AdbnisCA/s1600/P1070003.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1eR_W7svUCS4kAHv_GgfbR9eJWTo1MD9CsQt1RfXKFQH4yppQZAwno5fO1CH1MitqVh6691B7FbYfrGTjcfTeT2f_2gxehiJCT3sw1WTEacqMDLiHpAYI0_8C6mDAx0frX83AdbnisCA/s320/P1070003.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5634779446395257314" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIJ5eBkx5cOnB8HxiDTHo0HBJqjuN9lytnGKypP_OprB7RcbQrPxHBa6Pu6VRs_W24Duqyz5hDhkqarbECLk_rqXj8NaPo5lAxjf30hNPz00sDJc-KtWRLO4-QdMjshKuhL5A5cyc5YcA/s1600/P1070011.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIJ5eBkx5cOnB8HxiDTHo0HBJqjuN9lytnGKypP_OprB7RcbQrPxHBa6Pu6VRs_W24Duqyz5hDhkqarbECLk_rqXj8NaPo5lAxjf30hNPz00sDJc-KtWRLO4-QdMjshKuhL5A5cyc5YcA/s1600/P1070011.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"></a></p><div style="text-align: justify; "></div><p></p> <p class="MsoNormal">My time in between rides on both days was a blissful vacation from the bustle of work in Delhi. I had chosen to leave the computer at my hotel in Delhi in the care of friends so that I would be unencumbered on my train rides. I had brought instead only a book to read and Sudoku puzzles to solve. I passed my afternoons, therefore, relaxing, thinking, sketching, and exploring the small village around Ranthambhore. It was wonderful in many ways to feel as though I was on a great adventure—I was not wasting time certainly—but yet to be able to pass the time in some idleness, <a href="http://robswatsonadventure.blogspot.com/2011/07/mighty-mumbai.html">relaxing from my southern adventures</a> and storing rest for my upcoming travels.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">As the afternoon waned, it was time for my next game ride. This time, I hopped into a different lorry with a new guide. We turned down a new path and again the excitement of the hunt stirred us all. Fresh eyes and high spirits scanned the forest floor for sights of the big cat but again found only birds and deer. Monkeys chattered above our heads but none called the warning of the big cat. Suddenly our guide pricked up his ears.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>He had heard the warning call and not far off. We stopped the car by a lake and waited. Perhaps the tiger was coming down to drink. There are only a few of these big beauties in Ranthambhore Park, and yet the park itself is massive, with large swaths inaccessible to jeeps and lorries. The excitement gripped us, but as the minutes waned, our attention wandered. Even the guide relaxed and seemed not to hope for a sighting. As we were thinking of moving on, we heard the warning call again, this time sharper and behind us. The driver did a quick U-turn and raced back toward the park entrance. We came upon a jeep stopped in the reeds, its cargo of four tourists popped out the top, cameras at the ready. As we waited, we saw something move to the right. The reeds rustled and slowly parted, and there emerged a beautiful, large male tiger. Undisturbed by the 24 tourists now snapping his picture (another jeep had come up behind us), he sauntered on his way. Swiftly, our driver moved past the jeep to keep pace with the cat until the tiger turned and faced the road. We stopped, killed the engine, and waited. Slowly, he moved out from the trees, walked slowly across the road not 20 meters in front of the car, and disappeared on the other side. Though we tried to follow, he moved away from the road and was soon lost in the underbrush.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIJ5eBkx5cOnB8HxiDTHo0HBJqjuN9lytnGKypP_OprB7RcbQrPxHBa6Pu6VRs_W24Duqyz5hDhkqarbECLk_rqXj8NaPo5lAxjf30hNPz00sDJc-KtWRLO4-QdMjshKuhL5A5cyc5YcA/s1600/P1070011.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIJ5eBkx5cOnB8HxiDTHo0HBJqjuN9lytnGKypP_OprB7RcbQrPxHBa6Pu6VRs_W24Duqyz5hDhkqarbECLk_rqXj8NaPo5lAxjf30hNPz00sDJc-KtWRLO4-QdMjshKuhL5A5cyc5YcA/s320/P1070011.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5634779442338780498" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd5QRKQx-tp4vxgU9elQ1noNVNc4KDIz-HFKyrdOrT891Io7T2Kh4nUvAqomv7Z1a16G3N4QgaOJOOPgdVutktvNmDgdmAUYMQ9_aMehOXf40LNFIGhFBRdMECh-GCu8agst2gfbcPIMs/s1600/P1070028.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd5QRKQx-tp4vxgU9elQ1noNVNc4KDIz-HFKyrdOrT891Io7T2Kh4nUvAqomv7Z1a16G3N4QgaOJOOPgdVutktvNmDgdmAUYMQ9_aMehOXf40LNFIGhFBRdMECh-GCu8agst2gfbcPIMs/s320/P1070028.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5634779437182283122" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2Y_11xhfwoL054X6BVSmz6XumIOrimmMw5RXtBY4-MBGMzoOOJ1ygxNyKwkqKgIFzFGHZTzsBjBPUT6lh9l9u-l28iQdcnAtQ0DXkk0UJtwR3s2RC87aP0MD5mchaUqTOht97FPT9P5c/s1600/P1070034.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2Y_11xhfwoL054X6BVSmz6XumIOrimmMw5RXtBY4-MBGMzoOOJ1ygxNyKwkqKgIFzFGHZTzsBjBPUT6lh9l9u-l28iQdcnAtQ0DXkk0UJtwR3s2RC87aP0MD5mchaUqTOht97FPT9P5c/s320/P1070034.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5634779436630083522" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></p><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6CC4jtYqxHEAIXSW7ar0wVv2crsRwLn12-i_K6XKO3wItD0kDk_nItPWpWJOGU5Z5TbS6XNYMiSw7bbAs_RiGOzCOBYAzdMScd-oOoIFRYTczKlnPQ82SSxmZoniKrdOsrfKSWn-1BQg/s1600/P1070037.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6CC4jtYqxHEAIXSW7ar0wVv2crsRwLn12-i_K6XKO3wItD0kDk_nItPWpWJOGU5Z5TbS6XNYMiSw7bbAs_RiGOzCOBYAzdMScd-oOoIFRYTczKlnPQ82SSxmZoniKrdOsrfKSWn-1BQg/s320/P1070037.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5634780156284050242" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwSXu5OWJpSMR24A93PBZfdfYIEuu_qUNsTG9bQBMOQE5tASAxr_JN3je4Owp9yhuKW8XSohsUpGu2zzwp0Dcw85Wkg3BAwM3iBTfnUL-CwWcY_-CNQWUr6NatvIPWiZjlfKo-DNNARoo/s1600/P1070044.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwSXu5OWJpSMR24A93PBZfdfYIEuu_qUNsTG9bQBMOQE5tASAxr_JN3je4Owp9yhuKW8XSohsUpGu2zzwp0Dcw85Wkg3BAwM3iBTfnUL-CwWcY_-CNQWUr6NatvIPWiZjlfKo-DNNARoo/s320/P1070044.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5634780153864690834" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwfLj9NohTfJflnSfG2MHheh6HIk8MjmHhDvc09kyuc3h5mn1g-vR_8eDIq8LQhYcP7etLLF1OjmEktWRD57OX46shdro0dgJ9NlzWYMNUuqfWBpc3A8KFjZf5yd4Tzh6WPyMIxPOKJhA/s1600/P1070350.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwfLj9NohTfJflnSfG2MHheh6HIk8MjmHhDvc09kyuc3h5mn1g-vR_8eDIq8LQhYcP7etLLF1OjmEktWRD57OX46shdro0dgJ9NlzWYMNUuqfWBpc3A8KFjZf5yd4Tzh6WPyMIxPOKJhA/s320/P1070350.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5634780152420507234" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo7oj35IsgbQPmxjmf8dl7qYT4mfnFs5QOkWCc6oZc3v7WVW79iKmN12Baro44YN5nDDw3VeorLsriwtpzcw8G9BIsTSuj41GtNaUKEaoPxz4bvLGtnPIrFW-E-frn4goET9OnNo5Du4o/s1600/P1070047.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo7oj35IsgbQPmxjmf8dl7qYT4mfnFs5QOkWCc6oZc3v7WVW79iKmN12Baro44YN5nDDw3VeorLsriwtpzcw8G9BIsTSuj41GtNaUKEaoPxz4bvLGtnPIrFW-E-frn4goET9OnNo5Du4o/s320/P1070047.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5634780144393838130" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWJVMGGaWbjLvvMPLkfZv-b8Hx1hScRJj25Yv6SvsYuBE8NsRgH9POPC8Krxo0t3sGMDgHMuhprWBwGR1MO1ApjqiRvKgZDNGEpTu9wirvTNAg77grSM-bAYSMRhfF7lPr_LRn7K5Zjes/s1600/P1070351.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWJVMGGaWbjLvvMPLkfZv-b8Hx1hScRJj25Yv6SvsYuBE8NsRgH9POPC8Krxo0t3sGMDgHMuhprWBwGR1MO1ApjqiRvKgZDNGEpTu9wirvTNAg77grSM-bAYSMRhfF7lPr_LRn7K5Zjes/s320/P1070351.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5634780143028470066" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></div> <p class="MsoNormal">Even though we had only seen him for two minutes, the car twittered with excitement as we drove on back to the gates and out of the park. No other lorries had glimpsed the beast that day and so we felt special—the conquering heroes. For me, the night was spent in relaxation and happiness over an Indian dinner before an early bedtime for my next day of safaris.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">As dawn again broke on Ranthambhore, it was time for me to rise and head out once more. The sighting the evening before had whet my appetite for more, and I felt sure that today we would again be lucky. Our drive took us down yet another track this morning, past more crocodiles reposing by a beautiful lake. Birds skimmed the surface, and the clarity of the sky promised a beautiful day and lifted us all with optimism. For several in our car, this was their last chance to glimpse the powerful animal so near extinction. They only hoped if they went home empty today that it wouldn’t be the last chance in their lives. We drove all morning, but again in vain. Though we came upon wild boars this time as well as the usual cohort of deer and monkeys, the tiger again eluded us. Tracks lay in the road, but evidently the nocturnal beast had settled elsewhere for the day. Our cameras full but hearts empty, we again returned to town disappointed.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiplXTtFJm8M4lV4ZwMF5Tv6hllj4zRoh-Rg_6xUBsMeyyIg5SYZf8fiyNR2H4qj9OD0bIctJzA2S9yMMsM-qGhPP8rs_Jv0ldydrGFdzoJUu5iR-x-ArKge8x2OkUCkB5c7g0qnsvijAA2/s1600/P1070058.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiplXTtFJm8M4lV4ZwMF5Tv6hllj4zRoh-Rg_6xUBsMeyyIg5SYZf8fiyNR2H4qj9OD0bIctJzA2S9yMMsM-qGhPP8rs_Jv0ldydrGFdzoJUu5iR-x-ArKge8x2OkUCkB5c7g0qnsvijAA2/s320/P1070058.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5634780784100408482" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwU98zE3nX45PZLofASVkQteQDT1LArBoLPyVQDMou69Y0q7EEuo0_098LtKgJX3KyaTgC5xtL-gRoEX2XregC_xTFaMMqxD2BnSp_vQVf2S5WbPepTovDinOmIo-CDb8nnsaibuQ7qnzV/s1600/P1070086.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwU98zE3nX45PZLofASVkQteQDT1LArBoLPyVQDMou69Y0q7EEuo0_098LtKgJX3KyaTgC5xtL-gRoEX2XregC_xTFaMMqxD2BnSp_vQVf2S5WbPepTovDinOmIo-CDb8nnsaibuQ7qnzV/s320/P1070086.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5634780783551469362" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTUtzIIeRsdFnWxuTjWALLsDK7KEmBztwLkJSRjSMXcPlSI4-s7R3vuDJPExdmKHbcnDQPo7y3XDk-uXWXhmaJl1uzPrFcmBEAlbgZ1TYNPcv3eTPS1ZgX5aIsE6Qp_MSXImoTbLWCDG9D/s1600/P1070337.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTUtzIIeRsdFnWxuTjWALLsDK7KEmBztwLkJSRjSMXcPlSI4-s7R3vuDJPExdmKHbcnDQPo7y3XDk-uXWXhmaJl1uzPrFcmBEAlbgZ1TYNPcv3eTPS1ZgX5aIsE6Qp_MSXImoTbLWCDG9D/s320/P1070337.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5634780779170578370" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_yT66TCfYCuzdrGee06xSL4OLRUoW9fY-c5Cda2Pu6ExQI9PnPDdNQCN8yDKAPSW6wmxMQlIA1GfknkNEfWJ1STWXp1h3DPMEXoAm_oSbTpGNsz_CII5d7m7gtZngJeOrwAX5FMNdoZPs/s1600/P1070125.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_yT66TCfYCuzdrGee06xSL4OLRUoW9fY-c5Cda2Pu6ExQI9PnPDdNQCN8yDKAPSW6wmxMQlIA1GfknkNEfWJ1STWXp1h3DPMEXoAm_oSbTpGNsz_CII5d7m7gtZngJeOrwAX5FMNdoZPs/s320/P1070125.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5634780772252788962" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijfgnA3lFFmCQQWAykSGDiitOKXkR5fexZUUn9eVYN_1eme29edmaOm6IT8orL9vhv4VX73Ah9jAqemaQ5MImuXK51NPYrABhQOZJN84sC14oYvGshhlNLKp2hnbMFJdLSGzXpS6orTa5V/s1600/P1070141.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijfgnA3lFFmCQQWAykSGDiitOKXkR5fexZUUn9eVYN_1eme29edmaOm6IT8orL9vhv4VX73Ah9jAqemaQ5MImuXK51NPYrABhQOZJN84sC14oYvGshhlNLKp2hnbMFJdLSGzXpS6orTa5V/s320/P1070141.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5634780771971946770" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmmsaVBLiKs-TR76bwsM4lP6zypgRvTLcRmGK3MfczhlcorMqe0vtuZwrFEi-s5ggNuauiUY_-KOylB2AW1ABPcBq46eqFPRFR3cP9FTbahgxpYjZ5pKWrObTn2yodprHh9zTEMU33clHy/s1600/P1070187.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmmsaVBLiKs-TR76bwsM4lP6zypgRvTLcRmGK3MfczhlcorMqe0vtuZwrFEi-s5ggNuauiUY_-KOylB2AW1ABPcBq46eqFPRFR3cP9FTbahgxpYjZ5pKWrObTn2yodprHh9zTEMU33clHy/s320/P1070187.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5634781665632237682" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOKWDCrX5oA6sgL97dtn7N3-GKjMkBnhwxHn6S5gS_QDpFYonU_Tm0OrfNAX_1ZUB3tO46kjnS7g2yeJXNa-nkZGnxTYIMxDIuwc5dCG7WvOhJikqYP2zfm9uuuxZ7eoGJQ_CuqtBAFJOp/s1600/P1070213.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOKWDCrX5oA6sgL97dtn7N3-GKjMkBnhwxHn6S5gS_QDpFYonU_Tm0OrfNAX_1ZUB3tO46kjnS7g2yeJXNa-nkZGnxTYIMxDIuwc5dCG7WvOhJikqYP2zfm9uuuxZ7eoGJQ_CuqtBAFJOp/s320/P1070213.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5634781665820767138" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjd4RPKTMxueBMib8Zh56qorkjLy4t2ofRJrKzXfruU_uItNGPdrkIknAeJSgH0gMI9N7KC8geowAsk5fGODh9ECqTx60tRNLNlkABPuoaxyZ_mKMb4-xYw0XBJjywugYMtljyUmeE3NUy/s1600/P1070229.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjd4RPKTMxueBMib8Zh56qorkjLy4t2ofRJrKzXfruU_uItNGPdrkIknAeJSgH0gMI9N7KC8geowAsk5fGODh9ECqTx60tRNLNlkABPuoaxyZ_mKMb4-xYw0XBJjywugYMtljyUmeE3NUy/s320/P1070229.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5634781662067337970" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiplXTtFJm8M4lV4ZwMF5Tv6hllj4zRoh-Rg_6xUBsMeyyIg5SYZf8fiyNR2H4qj9OD0bIctJzA2S9yMMsM-qGhPP8rs_Jv0ldydrGFdzoJUu5iR-x-ArKge8x2OkUCkB5c7g0qnsvijAA2/s1600/P1070058.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal">After another day of relaxation and wandering the town picking up souvenirs, I boarded a lorry for the last time Sunday evening. With yet another guide and on yet another road, I hoped that I might at least go 2/4 in my tiger spotting. Yet as the drive grew long, the sun’s rays longer, and time shorter, it seemed we were not to find the beast. We rode this time past the ruins of a hunting lodge now known to drivers as “Tiger Fort” because of the propensity of the beasts to sleep in the open windows. Yet today there was no such luck. Through the hills we wandered again encountering deer, boars, and monkeys, but no tiger.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz2dsQDivSa39gpbJ9iR3iD21J009X8GZo5y-J0hVQ81Uywi_aZcASNpu8z-3_Y40sbgh4L2Scaq-oD46a-14ZjAeArrBWb4mtAdJSVtDb3_OSg1l5oPJ3BglsxWk_YSa-1I8L2uk5IT7v/s1600/P1070241.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz2dsQDivSa39gpbJ9iR3iD21J009X8GZo5y-J0hVQ81Uywi_aZcASNpu8z-3_Y40sbgh4L2Scaq-oD46a-14ZjAeArrBWb4mtAdJSVtDb3_OSg1l5oPJ3BglsxWk_YSa-1I8L2uk5IT7v/s320/P1070241.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5634781660540660258" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj67gHsmGjnIdm874XQitN_tZCGLvEsq8JYohIzsX-HfCtJjgyVquuA0iaG1cim0AHKtIdme_AALtVxvoOsJvDFMkexp5nLyNxZUSiiwIp_pl95BxEXwGVRfKNamNZ8gEEARQQX3W0nHSoc/s1600/P1070264.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj67gHsmGjnIdm874XQitN_tZCGLvEsq8JYohIzsX-HfCtJjgyVquuA0iaG1cim0AHKtIdme_AALtVxvoOsJvDFMkexp5nLyNxZUSiiwIp_pl95BxEXwGVRfKNamNZ8gEEARQQX3W0nHSoc/s320/P1070264.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5634781654222819234" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></p><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6CC4jtYqxHEAIXSW7ar0wVv2crsRwLn12-i_K6XKO3wItD0kDk_nItPWpWJOGU5Z5TbS6XNYMiSw7bbAs_RiGOzCOBYAzdMScd-oOoIFRYTczKlnPQ82SSxmZoniKrdOsrfKSWn-1BQg/s1600/P1070037.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"></a></div> <p class="MsoNormal">As we passed the Tiger Fort again, though, something was different. Two jeeps were stopped staring at it from across the lake. We joined them and soon a whisper of “tiger” passed through the car. Everyone strained their eyes, but none could make out the supposed sighting. Our guide passed around binoculars and explained where to look. Sure enough, there was the tiger, sitting in the window. With the twin miracles of optical and digital zoom, even you can see for yourself. See?</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXi85wEwQG2wXkLz3yn59KWOS8lWURp_tghyphenhyphennXGb_wWtSi_yh5So_ZPI0plWVb_64HbZFpflFL6WVGKAo2QxsuF2GcLTGpfs-1LtPjKi7FmWNPJvxYlVktJsy9i1pVc3iY3QZ3KWKp_8sM/s1600/P1070318.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXi85wEwQG2wXkLz3yn59KWOS8lWURp_tghyphenhyphennXGb_wWtSi_yh5So_ZPI0plWVb_64HbZFpflFL6WVGKAo2QxsuF2GcLTGpfs-1LtPjKi7FmWNPJvxYlVktJsy9i1pVc3iY3QZ3KWKp_8sM/s320/P1070318.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5634782112287138642" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal">How about now?</p><p class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk0PBaMXzLcQ5bjF64WmHqNOYqItXHh2ITpdLF8UPHJR8_z4A11707GJzgzv0E1HcR3PZokLmcxhvFp0wiGen0MmiG_5Bp36N5OhDzdag8CINUbfsC1GSqrionbU8a_1rRxeC3MLZ6DDkU/s1600/P1070324.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk0PBaMXzLcQ5bjF64WmHqNOYqItXHh2ITpdLF8UPHJR8_z4A11707GJzgzv0E1HcR3PZokLmcxhvFp0wiGen0MmiG_5Bp36N5OhDzdag8CINUbfsC1GSqrionbU8a_1rRxeC3MLZ6DDkU/s320/P1070324.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5634782115321724338" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Now?</p><p class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZJ-bmsxtAOsbOrgSiv9Wj9A46IsjRqYX30Yc6fWKr_ROg41xEU_IOiGMaAwUOp7Zf_7NWRUYovygR6Xm77vCrYhKPONxWb9VduVA90lS5v-pv5FviqYtkm_YFQ90AlN0E_qgdXasi5Ef7/s1600/P1070328.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZJ-bmsxtAOsbOrgSiv9Wj9A46IsjRqYX30Yc6fWKr_ROg41xEU_IOiGMaAwUOp7Zf_7NWRUYovygR6Xm77vCrYhKPONxWb9VduVA90lS5v-pv5FviqYtkm_YFQ90AlN0E_qgdXasi5Ef7/s320/P1070328.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5634782109076175074" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIBqOjo0T8SgpwlIx3yEZ1inDy2GImKyKVYM69Einvex85AoX8kxF2O1dQ9yfjEVqtwkQvD_RGMrVz6UoaWNNNE0WjmH0mJXLQ_h7vTGKG9EMzIhLkE0KyJ9Q4CkQTetDI1xJPeYydiqiZ/s1600/P1070363.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIBqOjo0T8SgpwlIx3yEZ1inDy2GImKyKVYM69Einvex85AoX8kxF2O1dQ9yfjEVqtwkQvD_RGMrVz6UoaWNNNE0WjmH0mJXLQ_h7vTGKG9EMzIhLkE0KyJ9Q4CkQTetDI1xJPeYydiqiZ/s320/P1070363.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5634782106680211394" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal">If you still didn’t see him in the last picture, try this one, and note that you are looking for the white belly of the reclining big cat. His head is up too, so that should help.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Though we now could all technically say we had seen the tiger, it seemed somehow unsatisfying. Though the time was short and we had to get back, as we saw the tiger moving, our driver decided to chance it. He raced around the lake to the other side and waited. With baited breath, we saw the tiger slowly pop through the reeds into a small pond, stoop for a drink, and then move off again into the brush. We tried briefly to follow, but our tardiness forced the driver back to the main gate without further chances to see the beautiful cat. Even so, we were all extremely thankful for his courage in defying the curfew and expressed our gratitude profusely on the ride home.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbSf9moK7SDEqGG21w2WjF3vgmfcNut9E6mmQhSoEQuwEEOv8QpaOgSztynglH0YnG1Ib1dywzjRzqGEY674hmJabsDX-PKEJMaeN_2pi6Q4GMXZ29UUGpJ8zE9RmIncF3Eg5okn1Q6GVT/s1600/P1070368.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbSf9moK7SDEqGG21w2WjF3vgmfcNut9E6mmQhSoEQuwEEOv8QpaOgSztynglH0YnG1Ib1dywzjRzqGEY674hmJabsDX-PKEJMaeN_2pi6Q4GMXZ29UUGpJ8zE9RmIncF3Eg5okn1Q6GVT/s320/P1070368.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5634782086638721042" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMffG0Oeipq4B-N2luHfHHJSoK-Y0dbmaw0yzUVaelEajwygiQM0cL_3y2fTTLi265w24TvXBDgBvySSrXQNnVCpfDbJ7Xo9yHtU2sICnXFOOKbVWrbofdYbxVW2YuovwutCet6VoePLUx/s320/P1070380.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5634782678926781122" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal">As darkness fell again on the city, I strolled through to the train station and waited for my train. Though it would be a long night and very uncomfortable, I could make the journey happy. I had been triumphant in my quest and had experienced yet another unique aspect of India’s mysteries. <span style="font-size:26.0pt;line-height:115%;font-family:"Cambria","serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font:major-latin;mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-theme-font:major-fareast;mso-hansi-theme-font:major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";mso-bidi-theme-font:major-bidi; color:#17365D;mso-themecolor:text2;mso-themeshade:191;letter-spacing:.25pt; mso-font-kerning:14.0pt"><o:p></o:p></span></p></div>Rob Besthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09463964785697202357noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9070652898233554429.post-92114080892573109322011-07-20T06:45:00.000-07:002011-07-20T07:16:04.358-07:00Mighty Mumbai<div style="text-align: left;">After being spoiled for a few days by <a href="http://robswatsonadventure.blogspot.com/2011/07/visit-from-old-friends.html">my stay with Alan and Andrew</a>, it was back to living life as a poor student and back to seeking the sustainable in India’s urban jungles. Having only spent one day in Mumbai my first time through the city, I decided to head back down there via Ahmedabad for another week to learn about sustainability in this financial capital and bustling metropolis.</div> <p class="MsoNormal">I left Udaipur on a bus bound for Ahmedabad and after a bit of a nap arrived in the city. Stubbornly refusing the overpriced rickshaws, I hoofed it to my hotel getting lost once on the way but in doing so, getting a nice introduction to the city. As I meandered through the streets laden with my backpack, I came across the city market jammed full of people and stalls to the point where it was hard for people, let alone rickshaws, to travel through (although the latter often tried!). By this time I had grown to love these market scenes in India for the diversity of people and goods, the bustle of life, and the glimpse of urban India that they represent. So despite my load, I took my time to enjoy the scene unfold before me.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZm2E9UcCXRAaHEfGbGjT_ZqG7uumr-ikQAjB8o1OkC3sSeZ4PTle8TEoX67WDXnb1mMsdQ55NTEWbkfX3V1ONd6BHvXLYf9KuMytArAIMGE_P4PIE3rNvGzUvJDd3gepaQiLiZRh3-lY/s1600/P1060574.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZm2E9UcCXRAaHEfGbGjT_ZqG7uumr-ikQAjB8o1OkC3sSeZ4PTle8TEoX67WDXnb1mMsdQ55NTEWbkfX3V1ONd6BHvXLYf9KuMytArAIMGE_P4PIE3rNvGzUvJDd3gepaQiLiZRh3-lY/s320/P1060574.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5631433451783225154" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKq6UVJialCc0RHJFTj5sR_7Qal5dLrSKtrBljB1a0IUzYmbi8bzH-nG5y2RtynFUoZpTYhPIxatvvvTRu0Do-iSbttr1JyW35-8dseV5bjIDIyd-LEqxMFlo1EDCfxl67vw3Fz3rYrgI/s1600/P1060575.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKq6UVJialCc0RHJFTj5sR_7Qal5dLrSKtrBljB1a0IUzYmbi8bzH-nG5y2RtynFUoZpTYhPIxatvvvTRu0Do-iSbttr1JyW35-8dseV5bjIDIyd-LEqxMFlo1EDCfxl67vw3Fz3rYrgI/s320/P1060575.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5631433447500659346" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix4-vJ42dmSMr0jP4Jik6osMjipw32C4DoofUwbitgRlUf4kw-Zj3l1lzKx1iyDVkUf2xLWvJAyOL639D78BFulntRNhSayBHqqrdrPIpJvQWpPXQocznTG1fF9cB05pmf38fWSUUHnOY/s1600/P1060583.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix4-vJ42dmSMr0jP4Jik6osMjipw32C4DoofUwbitgRlUf4kw-Zj3l1lzKx1iyDVkUf2xLWvJAyOL639D78BFulntRNhSayBHqqrdrPIpJvQWpPXQocznTG1fF9cB05pmf38fWSUUHnOY/s320/P1060583.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5631433444236954386" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal">The rest of Ahmedabad was relatively uneventful save for one moment that struck fear in my heart and sent me running back to my hotel the next morning. After a peaceful night and a good dinner of Chinese/Indian food (pure Chinese doesn’t exist in India—it is always Indian-ized), I awoke the next morning to vacate my hotel and see the sights before catching the night train to Mumbai. Halfway to my first stop, Gandhi’s ashram, I realized that I had forgotten my money belt complete with my passport in my now empty hotel room. Panicking, I ran back to my hotel and told the manager that I had left something “very important” in my room and needed to get back in to get it. I knew I had left it under the pillow and was only hoping that it was still there. Smiling, he called the room cleaner and then together they pulled my money belt from a drawer in the front desk and handed it back to me. I was immensely relieved and thankful, yet before I could express this, the manager laid his hand on mine atop the money belt and said, “We didn’t take anything from it even though we could have. You should give us something for that.” In other words, for his simple honesty in doing the duty that any hotel manager should, he wanted a reward. Now I have no problem giving such rewards, but I hate being asked for it. And his toothy grin twisted around eyes glowing with greed only bothered me more. However, considering that my luggage was also stored there for the day, I did a quick calculation and figured 100 Rupees was worth the security that nothing would be stolen from my luggage (even it was extorted from me). So I handed over the money and with a bitter smile and a sour taste in my mouth at the loss of the money, I left.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">I tell this story because it highlights something that bothers me most about traveling in the developing world, but especially in India (it seemed more prevalent there than China or Kenya)—the association of white skin with money and the constant attempts to draw every last penny from the rich people. Perhaps there are remaining class tensions here that I do not entirely understand or perhaps there is the sense that without the caste system everyone should be equal and therefore they have a right to the same money,<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>but it annoys me as a traveler. I don’t have anything on which to base this claim, but my guess is that an Indian staying in the hotel I did would not have been extorted as I was for the return of a possession left in the room. I read <a href="http://articles.timesofindia.indiatimes.com/2011-03-06/people/28358308_1_cwg-scam-cricket-sports">an article while in Delhi about why India was not yet a “world-class” tourist destination or a “world-class” country</a>. The authors listed several things having to do with cleanliness, rude behavior, and general maintenance, but this incident in Ahmedabad put one more item on their list in my mind—lack of equal treatment. While I understand that many in India are so poor that they struggle to make ends meet, I don’t think that is a fair basis on which to leverage unfair prices or tariffs on foreigners or those who are a bit wealthier. Perhaps this is the sense of justice and equality cultivated in America since the 1960s talking, but until everyone is treated equally in India (upper and lower class, tourist and citizen alike), I don’t think it will be “world-class” in the sense that this article implied. This is not just a matter of the vendors giving equal prices—the wealthy in India are equally guilty of unfair treatment. Yet if tourists experience such unfair practices, I can understand why they might become disenchanted with this mystical nation. (Note: I realize the depth of discussion these comments could generate but I don’t have time nor column space to delve into them and explore both sides of this issue in a way that does it justice. Instead, I leave only my impression from the time at which this all happened.)</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Anyway, once that was over, I had a nice day exploring Gandhi’s ashram in Ahmedabad and some of the very interesting step wells in the city that used to provide places for gathering drinking water, bathing, and other activities. I capped the day with a meal along the same market street on which I entered the city—some good street food prepared by a few Muslim Indian gentlemen who quickly made me their friend and chatted with me all about the city while I ate. In fact, I noticed throughout the city that many people were very friendly and eager to talk to me, almost to the point where I could not walk about without being stopped every 10 seconds. While it made getting around harder, it did offer some fun conversations and many pictures of smiling groups of friends.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2FN0xGTj9dQE08F7xPo5Rh8plgLZ8XIfC-DvMjejNfdof2kwB0ZHWVWIgg9MkSaG6o2JeGU3-8amw0EkkFXnyQoHGAT2y61k3ESlC6rI9HZJsjcdcqUr-Tc-UXuc9bcdvBq3F7-txcLc/s1600/P1060613.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2FN0xGTj9dQE08F7xPo5Rh8plgLZ8XIfC-DvMjejNfdof2kwB0ZHWVWIgg9MkSaG6o2JeGU3-8amw0EkkFXnyQoHGAT2y61k3ESlC6rI9HZJsjcdcqUr-Tc-UXuc9bcdvBq3F7-txcLc/s320/P1060613.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5631433437044304690" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAxE4EmMTb3PPbEA8gHPJfA7_sq5p9_LpttQhLSXockPtPJs8lYY2mQqC5PA2rNP3hZNc24K7PZqvhqPZ6m7La1_jy7VFOs-c-B2xIcu3w4fp1RuWZ5F4tvt87xGSUl5rojn0zh7qgOSE/s1600/P1060616.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAxE4EmMTb3PPbEA8gHPJfA7_sq5p9_LpttQhLSXockPtPJs8lYY2mQqC5PA2rNP3hZNc24K7PZqvhqPZ6m7La1_jy7VFOs-c-B2xIcu3w4fp1RuWZ5F4tvt87xGSUl5rojn0zh7qgOSE/s320/P1060616.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5631433435170379698" style="display: block; 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margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOT3ZDQZYbLpldD-aHax5ri59HET3MPRmzGRWfAMhF9TGsVpwCTufecrTHKT3DPV_j7uhUCzc0WDM1WfAkDUiO4RMiBfee_QrX0llHFOXxbwXmnyUrcxmqNECS_OAqnyPAKrtCqVPJ6TM/s1600/P1060706.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOT3ZDQZYbLpldD-aHax5ri59HET3MPRmzGRWfAMhF9TGsVpwCTufecrTHKT3DPV_j7uhUCzc0WDM1WfAkDUiO4RMiBfee_QrX0llHFOXxbwXmnyUrcxmqNECS_OAqnyPAKrtCqVPJ6TM/s320/P1060706.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5631436280842354386" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><p class="MsoNormal">When I arrived in Mumbai the next morning, I headed to my new accommodation—the Salvation Army hostel in the shadow of my former residence, the Taj Mahal Palace hotel. While this was definitely a step down on luxury, I got to meet some cool German girls who were traveling through India. The days passed in a combination of sightseeing with and without them and in holding a few meetings with people involved with sustainable building in and around Mumbai.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">In my time here, I learned just how different Mumbai is from Delhi and how its unique structure and social conditions create different challenges for sustainability. To begin with, contrary to Delhi which is a sprawling city, Mumbai historically has been very space constrained. Its location on an island means that it has developed extremely densely, similar to Manhattan. Its location on the sea gave it a prominent position in the times of the British Empire when trading dominated. The southern part of the island therefore developed into a financial and business hub with soaring architecture featuring powerful columns, impressive facades, and monumental stonework proclaiming the might of Britain. As the city developed, wealth was increasingly concentrated on the small island leading to a two-fold effect—the growth of the upper class and services catering to it (hotels, restaurants, clubs, and the movie industry) and the rapid growth of the lower class which provided the services. As Mumbai increasingly gained a reputation as the land of opportunity, more citizens flocked to the city seeking to fulfill their dreams.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">What is left today now that the British have left India is a city that strives for modernity yet is plagued with one of the worst income gaps in the country. Where else in India or the world can you have mansions overlooking the largest slum in the nation or a land of movie stars mixed with the poorest of the poor. Relative to other Indian cities, it is relatively young and thus does not thrive on tourism to sustain itself. Instead, as with many financial centers the world over, it relies on international banking and business to develop and grow. Sure it has some interesting tourist sites (a large temple to the goddess of wealth, a mosque that is only accessible at low tide, a beautiful waterfront and beach—just don’t swim in the water), but the real stars are the banks which line the area north of Colaba and the numerous other corporations which occupy the old British towers.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjKW847lMPglBf5yKOHzwXKIXcH9Kf9Wx5cCGyu3NiYjXqYNGyvih6o1cD8pzUVY2jwdodDY7Emw43PjGShPfzUxaQLNWDYHiEYetrkuWSrSOVYcV_SSYiraBo_r49EMiqZapyUTNwgJ4/s1600/P1060721.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjKW847lMPglBf5yKOHzwXKIXcH9Kf9Wx5cCGyu3NiYjXqYNGyvih6o1cD8pzUVY2jwdodDY7Emw43PjGShPfzUxaQLNWDYHiEYetrkuWSrSOVYcV_SSYiraBo_r49EMiqZapyUTNwgJ4/s320/P1060721.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5631436275881131458" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJHGgTH5dYL16YAEqjclFvXZJZK3WwxibHg6LD3HS12yvJgGc53V-tEY2vTnc2TUNILPVv6odwOGzb0pWvrUEEjESpqtBdZ9MFFR2MW1lsaaGTZsWKS0r_lQTNXRdDDMTI2FgT3WiGV4s/s1600/P1060738.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJHGgTH5dYL16YAEqjclFvXZJZK3WwxibHg6LD3HS12yvJgGc53V-tEY2vTnc2TUNILPVv6odwOGzb0pWvrUEEjESpqtBdZ9MFFR2MW1lsaaGTZsWKS0r_lQTNXRdDDMTI2FgT3WiGV4s/s320/P1060738.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5631436266354545618" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN5DehieTHrKhPm_3B645lOomGzgkJsbIaWIu7L4GW0F7OT7dbSi40I8VdNXB4NAlbyT5QqRWwseFa0IdGN7HmxSyog32V3qE8ZaQx66niqu3QZWXl9iMV2FpAtY9QcbMpL5MAaB_nFQU/s1600/P1060796.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN5DehieTHrKhPm_3B645lOomGzgkJsbIaWIu7L4GW0F7OT7dbSi40I8VdNXB4NAlbyT5QqRWwseFa0IdGN7HmxSyog32V3qE8ZaQx66niqu3QZWXl9iMV2FpAtY9QcbMpL5MAaB_nFQU/s320/P1060796.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5631436261929563890" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></p> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI8ChQpVQPnfW-xgstyiajuRZWCnVaO8qNgRaVRFqD-75JpVOT_XdxcBJxF8gBI8AuGjHJZi7FiEODPNGKCBRP85MBxALIzSRMcX8ik2EYbu1VU5jReg3GBKOAnhJsS-Njl8S-Sshg7x0/s1600/P1060876.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI8ChQpVQPnfW-xgstyiajuRZWCnVaO8qNgRaVRFqD-75JpVOT_XdxcBJxF8gBI8AuGjHJZi7FiEODPNGKCBRP85MBxALIzSRMcX8ik2EYbu1VU5jReg3GBKOAnhJsS-Njl8S-Sshg7x0/s320/P1060876.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5631437320824366082" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL1G-Y-01PSj7kSAjxIpb979hglZh65R6Kx9011OSFWFlINP7OTZiIgbGDJ9QjrWXhe6htRnsX8Yt4MaFLaEiZFxVgPSaGPXpw8NxRN2PKqU6K8EKYzsRHDtDYWy3GnCitWxiXyy8b3Q4/s1600/P1060916.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL1G-Y-01PSj7kSAjxIpb979hglZh65R6Kx9011OSFWFlINP7OTZiIgbGDJ9QjrWXhe6htRnsX8Yt4MaFLaEiZFxVgPSaGPXpw8NxRN2PKqU6K8EKYzsRHDtDYWy3GnCitWxiXyy8b3Q4/s320/P1060916.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5631437320785247810" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJHOjQJUKWmyFJ0OE3xOlU2vjjcwy9nBqpOBchoVk28sd5DNAJfL6PrPrnyp5UsF0D4Z3jsDJ8qTSTmPg_dVtlovSbYKS5WHWyqdRg70wlqsu3tXNrRnHUsSJT7arAYbnK1bbjXhviHsQ/s1600/P1060918.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJHOjQJUKWmyFJ0OE3xOlU2vjjcwy9nBqpOBchoVk28sd5DNAJfL6PrPrnyp5UsF0D4Z3jsDJ8qTSTmPg_dVtlovSbYKS5WHWyqdRg70wlqsu3tXNrRnHUsSJT7arAYbnK1bbjXhviHsQ/s320/P1060918.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5631437318822480962" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><p class="MsoNormal">Yet was is most intriguing about Mumbai is how it has evolved to handle these disparities and develop ways to service and satisfy both of these populations given the constraints that it has. Whereas in Delhi many of the lower classes rely on tourists for income either through sales, rickshaw fares, or even begging, in Mumbai there is a very visible dependence of the lower classes on the local population through established systems. The most obvious of these is the rickshaw network. Drivers belong to different conglomerations and operate in different areas, and unlike in Delhi, you hardly ever have to ask for the meter—turning it on is automatic. This system evolved perhaps from serving so many bankers and others for whom punctuality and fair prices were necessary, or perhaps from entrepreneurial rickshaw owners inspired by Mumbai’s business-friendly atmosphere. This same organization, however, can be seen visibly in two other cases. The first, the dhobi ghat, I mentioned in <a href="http://robswatsonadventure.blogspot.com/2011/07/visit-from-old-friends.html">my previous post</a>. However for those who have not read it, the ghat is basically the laundry room of Mumbai. Hundreds if not thousands of concrete basins are the site of washing by slum residents for hotels and citizens alike. A drop off and pick up or delivery system aids the process as well.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The other system that has evolved (and the one that impresses me the most) is that of lunch delivery. In India, hot lunches are especially valued given that the food just isn’t the same when served cold. However workers in downtown Mumbai do not have time to head home at noon for lunch with their families. Given their challenging work, they usually eat in the office. To satisfy this demand, a network of lunch delivery men work the city, taking hot tiffin boxes from the wives of the workers and dropping them at their places of work. Each box will pass through several hands in its delivery, going from a local collector to a man on the train to another local delivery man at the other end. Most of these delivery boys are illiterate, so a system of colors and numbers is relied upon to make sure the right box gets to the right place. While this service is only a few rupees per box, the number of boxes is staggering and can easily help support a poor man in Mumbai on this job.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkZzNcWUEkSlh7LVcW8w2e6vAEi5ERWVx4ezLhisDg59a4itpQtbL3mEhNrsEG_MzYVQBZBeQrpgmsQbIiTg1x5xLAZ5oUud5a8A1ZtTwlZk9gFjsbPQuuh5O9hGFG8_M-2sytZqUcQVY/s1600/P1060708.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkZzNcWUEkSlh7LVcW8w2e6vAEi5ERWVx4ezLhisDg59a4itpQtbL3mEhNrsEG_MzYVQBZBeQrpgmsQbIiTg1x5xLAZ5oUud5a8A1ZtTwlZk9gFjsbPQuuh5O9hGFG8_M-2sytZqUcQVY/s320/P1060708.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5631437318947552226" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqZ0KARS-nt6iUQjj7GxktWiCH4OYLIYCCtvViopdXbBQqX4554GKpBcM0KmMPtuDiZKmPoYw2dtJjwcao0zXir1kNW7JxJErMy8vl1A8zD9jL78yKGSfcBDc76ThsTbINixZ6qPfJbcY/s1600/P1060709.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqZ0KARS-nt6iUQjj7GxktWiCH4OYLIYCCtvViopdXbBQqX4554GKpBcM0KmMPtuDiZKmPoYw2dtJjwcao0zXir1kNW7JxJErMy8vl1A8zD9jL78yKGSfcBDc76ThsTbINixZ6qPfJbcY/s320/P1060709.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5631437314214036706" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal">What impresses me most about these systems is the industriousness of the workers and the inherent “sustainability” of them. As I highlighted before, these evolved independently in Mumbai and rely not on tourism (an inherently unsustainable market that unfortunately often sustains cities in the developing world) but on the institutions that exist in the city. The tiffin box delivers or clothes washers often do not give as second glance at tourists—they are too busy working to notice those who pass by. Though it would be nice to see a bit more money flwoing through these systems as the workers are still in relative poverty, this is not likely to change until the entirety of India’s salary base is lifted. Until then, these jobs will remain barely economically self-sustaining. However in this poverty there has also developed a socially sustainable system. Deliverers, washers, and drivers all bond with their kin, forming alliances and friendships that run very deep in Indian life (here, friendship and family are not to be betrayed). I heard stories while in Mumbai of residents of Dharavi, the largest slum, who chose not to leave even when their economic situation became more advanced simply because they had too many friends and family to want to go. Whether you think that occupations like washing and delivery can be simplified, you have to acknowledge that there is a camaraderie that would be lost should such innovation occur.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">However there is a negative side to this camaraderie as well, at least in the sense of sustainable development. It is a negative aspect common as well to Shanghai. Like the Chinese financial capital, Mumbai has seen property prices rise, thereby introducing a market for developers to eliminate slums and gentrify large sections of the city. In doing so, private developers rarely place value on preserving the existing social structures. In China, where poor residents cannot speak out against such injustice, the result is clearing of poorer, inadequate housing and dispersal of the residents to scattered tenement housing elsewhere. Circles of friends and neighbors are torn apart in the process.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">In India, the same thing could result from slum clearance. Furthermore, typically when developers build on a site such as Dharavi, the result is housing that can only be afforded by the middle class or higher. The previous residents are forced out of the city and may be too far removed to earn a living or contribute to the economy in the same way they did before. A train fare or the simple distance from their former place of work could be the barrier that further impoverishes them. Though no one will likely deny the venefits of improving areas such as Dharavi (the setting for “<a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1010048/">Slumdog Millionaire</a>”) given the health benefits that would be obvious from better sanitation, plumbing, and health and education services, doing so threatens to disrupt the social balance, remove from the city the only people who can perform the services mentioned above, and disrupt the social support system in place for many of the city’s residents. This balance between environmental and health objectives and social and economic ones is a challenge that is hard to meet. </p> <p class="MsoNormal">Yet this is just one segment of Mumbai society. What about the rest? Well, the same pressures that are infringing on the slums of Mumbai are challenging the rest of the city as well. A shortage of residential space ad growing demand for housing and living in the city means that more areas on the periphery are being explored for housing and even retail and commercial centers. As with many other growing cities in the developing world, housing cannot be built fast enough. And since this new housing is in fringe areas, it is typically lower density than the city center and relies heavily on vehicle transportation to serve the population. But as I said, this does not make Mumbai in any way unique. What is interesting is that while the city is facing this growth pressure, it also has a number of older buildings, holdovers from the British and the period after independence which are unlikely to be replaced anytime soon. Many of these buildings predate central air conditioning and though some have been retrofitted to incorporate this feature and other modern comforts, many still have not.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">I suppose it is a valid question to ask why a financial capital would be built in a location such as Mumbai. Certainly it is not the most inherently sustainable location for a financial capital given that summers are unbearably hot and humid and monsoon season turns the streets into rivers, but at this point, that is beside the question. The city is not going anywhere soon and that means that growth and renovation are necessary. Yet this is not part of the buidling culture in Mumbai yet. Whereas in some areas of the world sustainable spaces or at least modern spacesa re mandated by coporate policies, in Mumbai this does not seem to be the case. An influx of workers vying for fewer jobs than people combined with a lack of knowledge about comfort and sustainable technologies means that there is no culture of sustainability and modernity in the office world. This perhaps may be in part due to a lack of foreign investment relative to some other cities (such as Shanghai) where there is beginning to be a culture of modernity driven by these foreign companies. Certainly such investment could be driven by internal mechanisms as well, but there is not a culture in Indian business of investing in comfort and environment. It would be easy to blame this trend on a similar lack of care and understanding in imperial Britain that has been held over in recent times, but this is too convenient. I feel that there are other reasons where there is not the same culture of quality, sustainable office space in the city, but I don’t know them so will not speculate here.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>The lack of focus on comfort and sustainability is also due to a lack of understanding in the architectural and engineering industries on how to make modern, sustainable buildings, especially in renovation projects. Now this is not to say that there are no good architects and engineers in Mumbai who can make such spaces but rather that the average level of knowledge and the dynamic between clients and architects is such that optimal or sustainable solutions are often lacking. Modernity, like in Gurgaon near Delhi, is often associated almost exclusively with creation of glass boxes which in Mumbai’s climate are completely ineffective from a comfort and environment point of view. All in all, this makes for a daunting challenge for Mumbai’s buildings.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">It doesn’t help either that some buildings billed as “green” are inherently unsustainable. The perfect example is the Ambani Tower, a 27 storey residence for one family which I referred to in my last post. <a href="http://inhabitat.com/sites-residence-antilia-green-tower-in-mumbai/">This was billed as a “green” project in Mumbai by the developer Perkins+Will</a>.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Now I don’t want to seem like I’m entirely down on Mumbai. While it does have challenges like any city, it also has several factors that make it predisposed to sustainability in ways that other cities do not. The first of thes I have already mentioned—density. The city is more dense than any in the world with the exception, perhaps, of Hong Kong. While modern urban planners do not believe this high density to be such a good thing in new cities, for Mumbai, this means that there are inherently lower transportation nemissions. Furthermore, many of the trips in the city are taken via the suburban railway. In fact, so many are taken in this manner that the railway is often overtaxed with bodies squished together in every car and more hanging off the sides. To counter this, the city is trying to upgrade many of the trains and the public transit system to accommodate more passengers. However in the meantime, in my opinion, the city has a good problem on its hands. Whereas in a place like Delhi distances are quite far apart and building transit to service them all is a challenge, in compact Mumbai the corridors exist and people are used to using transit to get around across all sectors of social life. Furthermore, the compact size means that traffic is so horrendous that the public transit is preferred by many.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhir9dg5AeV3Ms1KLAfCQXfz-P5u48EH2DMFbYCO0pn_4cuzhOHh5B9GLNAg2PIFzCy3NQqP3mxkix0aqnpuWT4Rvgq0yAfrcj8P8Z81loZ_6Gf6QCYnLVnfezrxfCRK-102MRN3AZeq5w/s320/P1050987.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5631437912807316178" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Even though roads are also being widened and extended, the lack of free space likely means that there will not be much room for additional roads and thus additional cars. Therefore, even as the city modernizes its infrastructure, cars only have a limited role to play.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">From the standpoint of urban life, the compact development means that you are rarely out of reach of all necessary city services including food, communications, and other needs. Anywhere in the city you can find necessary services thereby further reducing the impact of living in the city. Though this will rise as air conditioning and other modern appliances are introduced into housing, these are easy things to tackle from an energy and emissions standpoint. The design of the city and the compact lifestyle is the hard part. Many architects and urban planners slave over this problem daily in other nations and cities, but Mumbai does not have to worry about the issues of mixed-use and compact development.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Overall, in my opinion, though Mumbai has a long way to go to be considered a truly sustainable city, it at least has the basis in place to meet these goals. With its form of urban development created out of necessity and land constraints, it is already on a better path to sustainability than may of India’s cities which have room to sprawl and lack the transit infrastructure of the financial capital. Time will tell, though, how Mumbai handles its population pressure and twin challenges of refurbishment and new development and whether or not it chooses a sustainable path. If the private sector can be motivated and mobilized to invest enviornmetnally, Mumbai has the potential to be a national and world leader in sustainability. Yet it will have to steer toward this path in the coming decade before it is too late developmentally to go back.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Before I close this post, I have one last story to tell, this time about my trip back to Delhi. I thought that after <a href="http://robswatsonadventure.blogspot.com/2011/07/adventures-in-indian-transportation-and.html">my harrowing trip from Jaipur to Mumbai</a><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight:normal"> </b>that the worst of my travel difficulties might be over. Though I knew I would have one more night on a hard seat the following weekend, I thought that at least I might have an easy trip to Delhi in between. After all, I was riding the express train back—a train that has never had mechanical difficulties and almost always runs on time. It is, in fact, a point of pride for the Indian Railways system.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">I boarded in Mumbai along with some fellow travelers from Mauritius in the late afternoon ready for the long trip in my air-conditioned cabin. Relative to my other trips, this was the most luxurious ride I had taken as I actually had a mattress on which to sleep and covers, not just a hard plank for a bed. Around 8 pm, we were served our dinner and the six of us sat eating and chatting as the train rumbled through the countryside of the state of Gujarat. Since we were on an express, we stopped only rarely and so from time to time, a small station would speed by outside, a blur of light, color, and weary faces waiting for other trains before the outside world was once again endless streaks of black and purple. As we were finishing dinner, the train slowed and pulled into a station. Initially, we thought nothing of it, but as I looked out the window and saw we were at yet another of these small town junctions, I became a bit concerned. My concern was more than anything over whether or not this unexpected stop at Ankleshwar Junction would delay our arrival significantly and if I would still be able to make it home in time to Skype with my mother for her birthday.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Seconds later, a fellow passenger from further down the car hurried up to us carrying his shoes. Initially, I thought this was his stop and he had almost missed it while sleeping. Then he turned and looked right at us. “Get off the train, there’s a bomb,” he said and then was gone further down the car.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">After a split second of stunned silence, our cabin became a flurry of activity. Though I had the sense of mind to set down my dinner carefully, others threw theirs wildly about scattering dahl, roti, and masala across the cabin. Swiftly, I reached up to my bunk, grabbed my computer, and turned for the door. We were luckily right next to the exits, but with the tide of people now flowing down the hallway, it was not easy to get out. When we did, the crowd pushed the Mauritian father and me into the door (which opens inward) with such force that we could not release and haul open the iron barrier. At the sight of the closed door, panic increased until we could clear space enough to open it. The tide of people surged out and into the warm air on the platform.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Without thinking, my Mauritian companions and I took off for the building itself. My motivation at the moment was just to get as much steel and concrete between myself and any potential blast as possible. In my hurry, I noticed that to the right a group or rally had gathered and was chanting along with a man holding a megaphone. Once inside the station, I stopped and peered back through the open door. Most of the passengers had gathered immediately outside the train, some were drawn as if magnetically to the rally. Only the Mauritians and I had sought the safety of the station hall.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">After a tense minute or two had passed in which I speculated on the nature of the rally in this small town, we saw the conductor walking along the train and talking to the passengers. We emerged from our hiding to find out what was going on. The Mauritian father spoke Hindi and was by default appointed to assess the situation. He learned that there was no bomb, only a mechanical failure that caused smoke one of the cars. This had led to the passengers believing a bomb to be on board. In reality, it was a failure of the brakes such that they were rubbing the wheels while the train was in motion causing the smoke.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Relieved and yet still disconcerted by the rally, we boarded the train again to sort out what was left of our meals and assess the cleaning to be done. No one ever did explain the rally to me, but after a delay of a hour and a half, we were back underway. Perhaps because of our delayed schedule, we lost more time en route to Delhi but at least the rest of the journey was uneventful.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">To put this all in context, it is not entirely unheard of for a bomb to be placed on a train in India. A rash of train bombings in Gujarat a few years back are still being prosecuted in Delhi and had, in fact, <a href="http://articles.timesofindia.indiatimes.com/2011-02-24/india/28627016_1_godhra-train-convicts-maulvi-hussain-umarji">been in the papers in the weeks leading up to my trip back to Delhi</a>. In fact <a href="http://ibnlive.in.com/news/twin-blasts-in-mumbai-15-injured/167291-3.html">even recently there were bomb attacks in Mumbai</a>, though nothing as damaging as <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2008_Mumbai_attacks">those which rocked the city several years ago</a>. So thought I would take it seriously anywhere in the world if I were told my train had a bomb onboard, in India it is perhaps an even more real threat.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Yet despite this, I have to wonder—why didn’t more people distance themselves from the train? I mean, if there had been a bomb and it had gone off, being next to the train would have been just as deadly as being onboard. I guess it is just one of life’s mysteries that we will never solve.</p>Rob Besthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09463964785697202357noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9070652898233554429.post-4512487650276186362011-07-18T03:38:00.000-07:002011-07-18T04:17:30.477-07:00A Visit from Old Friends<div style="text-align: left;"><a href="http://robswatsonadventure.blogspot.com/2011/07/adventures-in-indian-transportation-and.html">When I last left off</a>, I was finally en route to Mumbai after a harrowing trip through India’s transportation network. Well, despite my trouble, after a 16 hour journey on nothing but a hard bench seat and a night’s sleep doubled over on my laptop bag, feet entwined with my backpack straps for security, I arrived in Mumbai. Yet as they say, no rest for the weary—immediately upon arrival I had to race out to Navi Mumbai, the new suburb across the bay, for a meeting for my project. However I will talk more about that later. Instead I want to start with the trip after that to see some old friends and my subsequent days with them.</div><div> <p class="MsoNormal">My trip to meet my friends could not have been more incongruous. Leaving my meeting, I hopped aboard the suburban train back to Mumbai. At rush hour when I was there, this was a crowded proposition. In fact, it was worse in some ways than the Delhi Metro ever had been. When I boarded it was not so bad, but after a few stops, it was packed to overflowing. I mean literally overflowing. People hung on to the sides, dangling out of the cars just to get where they needed to be. There was no space to move, and I with my heavy backpack was locked in place. Good thing for me that I did not need to get off until the end. When I did, it was a short taxi ride to my final destination—the <a href="http://www.tajhotels.com/Luxury/Grand-Palaces-And-Iconic-Hotels/The-Taj-Mahal-Palace-Mumbai/Overview.html">Taj Mahal Palace hotel</a>, often considered one of the nicest hotels in Mumbai, if not the country. Here, in the lobby, I met two familiar faces—Andrew and Alan—one of my best friends and his father. They were on a world tour as well having hit Japan, China, and Thailand already, and had graciously offered to give me a few days of respite while they were in India.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">A nice long five-star shower perked me up nicely after my long journey, and soon I was ready for the evening. Having not seen one another in about 6 months, Andrew and I quickly fell into conversation that only broke when we both realized the time and our hunger. With an early sightseeing schedule for the next day, we prepared to find some dinner in our area of the city—the southern tip of Mumbai known as Colaba. As Alan wasn’t feeling up to exploring after his own long journey from Thailand, Andrew and I ventured out alone. After a short walk, we sought sustenance in Leopold Café, a tourist haven in the center of Colaba. Despite only hearing English within the confines of the restaurant, the Indian food was good, the Kingfisher beer just as wonderful, and overall (perhaps mostly for the company), it was one of the best meals I had in India.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwAUfPRM12eX44Yc2j5qt8FSAGpfCek-h8_rexcMxkfURFpCcyk5yyJZRrn64tHdmzLZafXCdRmO2bIAXr6GWuTJQZRo0PtblM91GMVSfhxM02N2yRUtmSewe_1KVv9FjNIr5RydvdZDY/s320/P1050915.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630640849209688658" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">After dinner, it was back to the hotel where I sunk deeply into the plush bed generously provided for me by Alan—a huge, and welcome, change from the hard bench of the previous night’s train. The next morning, we all rose early and refreshed for a whirlwind tour of Mumbai. Accompanied by Shilpa, our guide, we began our day with a cruise across the bay to the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elephanta_Caves">Elephanta Caves</a>, located on an island off the coast. Here, hundreds of years previously, followers of Hinduism carved a series of reliefs describing the story of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vishnu">Vishnu</a>, one of the principle gods of the Hindu trinity. The reliefs showed the several forms of Vishnu, his marriage to Parvati, and followed them as they taught of the lessons to be attained in each of man’s four stages of life: birth, young adulthood, middle age, and old age. The reliefs were incredibly detailed even with large chunks missing or defaced as a result of the monument being used as target practice by the Portuguese when they settled the area. It was a fascinating walk through the Hindu religion and an awesome experience. The inherent lesson of the monument made it all the more meaningful and helped me appreciate even more the role that Hinduism still plays in modern Indian societies. Stories like that portrayed on the walls of the cave show how the religion and the gods guide everyday life and provide lessons, expectations, and patterns that give order to the people and lead to understanding of the different phases of life and even daily activities. Aside from this meaning, it also provides very beautiful monuments and temples.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha-sE88NI8Ru_1QP3yqSe1nohZanlAE7RCYGciQPZhlNDy-AtcMm6AdLxybfhJXueDQjVLiA_IlMtuyBgSYeuvlXtHxKNg_D5lM0gHvicuwJvmEt1KbRDZ6TRswZCruaUFOvTGeL3E0ZM/s1600/P1050938.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha-sE88NI8Ru_1QP3yqSe1nohZanlAE7RCYGciQPZhlNDy-AtcMm6AdLxybfhJXueDQjVLiA_IlMtuyBgSYeuvlXtHxKNg_D5lM0gHvicuwJvmEt1KbRDZ6TRswZCruaUFOvTGeL3E0ZM/s320/P1050938.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630640849060297426" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7HlNHwXLLM35QsFtQ3E-A8oVYY2jAqWKJ4qsWSfKb75DrnPY6Z5lnTFbd-2VXxpaH-XQGJbtGX2WcP4Fq4R6b1r7WXKce9Hbv9PFebIv2XoZKgOrANTWj0d4qAxPs1W9l30c1OJKoM0Q/s1600/P1050943.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7HlNHwXLLM35QsFtQ3E-A8oVYY2jAqWKJ4qsWSfKb75DrnPY6Z5lnTFbd-2VXxpaH-XQGJbtGX2WcP4Fq4R6b1r7WXKce9Hbv9PFebIv2XoZKgOrANTWj0d4qAxPs1W9l30c1OJKoM0Q/s320/P1050943.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630640844057538674" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9M1pCNdeOcBm8f-2sYPbnFb4NACnN6B4JtmctAAEZUbSFa4DphnX2PeBkjMKKPYOZYmVDSFVVeo0xdfI4-iv98yUiecb25h8-sPS0FB5k-FJ8IHPYNsKY3dUwcN5Mho6Lfj1TOFF_aaQ/s1600/P1050948.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9M1pCNdeOcBm8f-2sYPbnFb4NACnN6B4JtmctAAEZUbSFa4DphnX2PeBkjMKKPYOZYmVDSFVVeo0xdfI4-iv98yUiecb25h8-sPS0FB5k-FJ8IHPYNsKY3dUwcN5Mho6Lfj1TOFF_aaQ/s320/P1050948.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630640839485396386" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsib4aIjpnMZuNxc1jl7eudyo9MPCOJxC4QfXXs365xsKet8r_aWpu_fhKTBdB-wotoj9Dso2WrfeIatxoA3idy4pp8asgsLSUZ6GBYeAJSmNL7mwHq7h-JnZ1rXjIuSVbDomRBG1Y-jg/s1600/P1050950.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsib4aIjpnMZuNxc1jl7eudyo9MPCOJxC4QfXXs365xsKet8r_aWpu_fhKTBdB-wotoj9Dso2WrfeIatxoA3idy4pp8asgsLSUZ6GBYeAJSmNL7mwHq7h-JnZ1rXjIuSVbDomRBG1Y-jg/s320/P1050950.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630640835068321650" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Leaving the caves, we headed back down the hill on the island and past a row of souvenir stalls and several observant monkeys. Our favorite by far was the one who had gotten hold of an ear of corn and was devouring his meal.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyar_JaVb1eyfu7TNDqBrMZCvy1rNcRlmTqTO1dGLZbbdvy9ycqkfLOgFfqJl8XpV9QD8yhPYCVGLv4sUKqLh2Hbfc7SWvUkr36eLZ_KMGjyS5p8VG8ksXkQCiUrk9oR9WaBypqTzFXFw/s1600/P1050956.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyar_JaVb1eyfu7TNDqBrMZCvy1rNcRlmTqTO1dGLZbbdvy9ycqkfLOgFfqJl8XpV9QD8yhPYCVGLv4sUKqLh2Hbfc7SWvUkr36eLZ_KMGjyS5p8VG8ksXkQCiUrk9oR9WaBypqTzFXFw/s320/P1050956.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630642105339707890" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7-dHu1pPJwkN1nMVwraiPLkJCHVNqn3Ry9c1M6crYGXjiSyMCOaww1I0OX15rIJOv7fat2sd7FCBLQok3TpYE_Z4kn_ryupUdhG-9e_W-K_BPnA_vSBulOXrh5Ncdp_t_UhVwI60MQnA/s1600/P1050960.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7-dHu1pPJwkN1nMVwraiPLkJCHVNqn3Ry9c1M6crYGXjiSyMCOaww1I0OX15rIJOv7fat2sd7FCBLQok3TpYE_Z4kn_ryupUdhG-9e_W-K_BPnA_vSBulOXrh5Ncdp_t_UhVwI60MQnA/s320/P1050960.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630642095012532242" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal">We headed then back to the mainland for a tour of the rest of Mumbai. We began our tour on the boat with a beautiful approach to the Gateway to India and sights of the Taj Mahal hotel. The former was built as a monument to commemorate a royal visit to British India only a decade or so before independence. From there, we hopped in our tour van and headed through the financial district marveling at the imperial buildings looming over the main streets. We stopped at the Victoria Terminus railway station—where I had arrived the previous night—to find that it was a magnificent Victorian building (no surprise there) flanked on the left by government buildings that retained the same splendor. I had not noticed in the previous night’s dark, so this was a pleasant sight and a bit of a surprise.</p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk8080ED6SJZ3-TfnWZtYT3SKbwK21FUvrkWZlRsd4LZ1lJSf09O3Il48KDzYMv86Id7RuUbXu7OOJ8r1RXM4bi9133pMrEsvmWmSJsv2hf2TjoRiCxLnYBJlKquaCrZjLztOWTLSTInI/s1600/P1050963.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk8080ED6SJZ3-TfnWZtYT3SKbwK21FUvrkWZlRsd4LZ1lJSf09O3Il48KDzYMv86Id7RuUbXu7OOJ8r1RXM4bi9133pMrEsvmWmSJsv2hf2TjoRiCxLnYBJlKquaCrZjLztOWTLSTInI/s320/P1050963.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630642098525509346" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCpq9zmXIkOCo4kNS49XPHjH3DG3QqoMCcrPfjE17l_upkKTGiZ29Er6urqAxBhG36aMNUO_oquj4tK7V-3EeTAi3CFNNcxDXqKEtHmLvHeH45PbUP4kqf4EMv8Kl2FvuBwJPi0uxrn3M/s1600/P1050972.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCpq9zmXIkOCo4kNS49XPHjH3DG3QqoMCcrPfjE17l_upkKTGiZ29Er6urqAxBhG36aMNUO_oquj4tK7V-3EeTAi3CFNNcxDXqKEtHmLvHeH45PbUP4kqf4EMv8Kl2FvuBwJPi0uxrn3M/s320/P1050972.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630642091069354978" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkczzN8Ejlt3ejuYzrWqHVGg6q6dUzsOfuz6_RYDogBIMu9T2K3lp7BHUJI9No46GLS9ZwjD1CRbXazW_Puep-L66gzXXupgqou3f7LgRgmygSD4G29_n11dApDTpzrgNUcgQ87vVJOoM/s1600/P1050976.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkczzN8Ejlt3ejuYzrWqHVGg6q6dUzsOfuz6_RYDogBIMu9T2K3lp7BHUJI9No46GLS9ZwjD1CRbXazW_Puep-L66gzXXupgqou3f7LgRgmygSD4G29_n11dApDTpzrgNUcgQ87vVJOoM/s320/P1050976.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630642087477115010" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN4n2dHBqO766q_k7PKK_06b_nNjfNDXKGZnsyd5QtSgP4EoyzhJko7UmaBHcHz2hKQwLwfqVS8NVip8vIJAzsVc3ik0k1rQmO5Zk3LaJisUf6Sfjhe1iQIJHngQXq73rmaPO0QYZUAgs/s320/P1050986.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630642601618061554" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align: left;">From there it was a quick lunch before heading off to the main museum in Mumbai for a quick tour of Indian art and artifacts before visiting Mahatma Gandhi's former residence and heading to another religious site—a Jain temple across town. I had not yet been in a Jain temple, so for me this was a new experience. Shilpa explained to us the religion of Jainism, its non-violent and vegetarian beliefs, and some of the basic tenets of the religion as we entered this marvelous shrine. Inside was a beautiful mix of religious art showing the various Tirthankars (teachers) of the religion and some of the principal deities and of art that also held scientific meaning. For example, the gorgeous ceiling was adorned with charts of the stars which likely would have been used for astrology but which also have astronomic significance and could be useful for navigating the stars or predicting the calendar.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtxDSYybI68quxfW8YyNOTGNXWTfK1fi6QSUkGofMtv-NMsa6vos5BNP0z2zx5vgeveVIKGO-_70KMGipu8Q-1cCGPXtTYTM6n5ND5WPGX54pqkNA_8PUPIhrJAenOZNSKCMOdlimK1eg/s1600/P1060009.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtxDSYybI68quxfW8YyNOTGNXWTfK1fi6QSUkGofMtv-NMsa6vos5BNP0z2zx5vgeveVIKGO-_70KMGipu8Q-1cCGPXtTYTM6n5ND5WPGX54pqkNA_8PUPIhrJAenOZNSKCMOdlimK1eg/s320/P1060009.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630642599825006850" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxYE0Z01NT4NqQn3TyYsnD29E4s-BnT8k4rW-h1lR8uxgkEfNJ1nXJLLdER5KWqz-9wOEhFvcTddWmTZccznTZI2ncUbPX87ZF5q2ThYbnIsOBLINWE13Ka6ODeouOkprcFm3hCRN-UA4/s1600/P1060013.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxYE0Z01NT4NqQn3TyYsnD29E4s-BnT8k4rW-h1lR8uxgkEfNJ1nXJLLdER5KWqz-9wOEhFvcTddWmTZccznTZI2ncUbPX87ZF5q2ThYbnIsOBLINWE13Ka6ODeouOkprcFm3hCRN-UA4/s320/P1060013.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630642592169647602" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBkcAWi_Fs_L27TvtSkSkZKjYcTYojuFKj4BCcPH5jzjzMLEqR8C2INJqWS2YFVxnxD71XR9Ba-1ltvO_Epc7Iek1R02h2qJRU7mVABbcO3ezmJ0xt4bpt3OkAcKSDy-vyfu5Hx7DWuto/s1600/P1060030.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBkcAWi_Fs_L27TvtSkSkZKjYcTYojuFKj4BCcPH5jzjzMLEqR8C2INJqWS2YFVxnxD71XR9Ba-1ltvO_Epc7Iek1R02h2qJRU7mVABbcO3ezmJ0xt4bpt3OkAcKSDy-vyfu5Hx7DWuto/s320/P1060030.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630642586916811826" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc3cfG30bdaqsxrf9lkxKBiAgn83Se3w7vcE7dSnAOqpH2TbsFhHUxoy3M2iIO-SsJyGscFFGg-3LBl0uAeGbM-NZ6TsQGj3WpFrlasMK6ZvUHzLaXPczlL0fXKLkUCTw8SCtMkVtU1NE/s1600/P1060038.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc3cfG30bdaqsxrf9lkxKBiAgn83Se3w7vcE7dSnAOqpH2TbsFhHUxoy3M2iIO-SsJyGscFFGg-3LBl0uAeGbM-NZ6TsQGj3WpFrlasMK6ZvUHzLaXPczlL0fXKLkUCTw8SCtMkVtU1NE/s320/P1060038.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630642585591778370" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal">The temple was located on the other side of town in one of the richest parts of Mumbai, and as we left, Shilpa told us a bit about the Ambani Tower, the 27 storey building that houses just one family—one of the heirs of the Reliance fortune. The scorn and disgust was clear in her voice for this family which used its extreme wealth to build a skyscraper for a home with a floor just for cars, another for servants, and the rest for the 4 members of their own family. The location was especially distasteful, it seemed, considering that it overlooks Dharavi—the largest slum in India and the basis of the Oscar-winner “Slumdog Millionaire.” As we drove by, we discussed matters of education and wealth in India until finally we reached our final stop for the day, the famous Dhobi Ghat. This laundry industry consists of hundreds of cement, open-air basins where launderers wash, beat, and dry clothing for the whole of Mumbai. Many hotels use their services as do private residences. Citizens drop off their clothes with a particular merchant in the morning and pick them up later or the next day. In the meantime, they are brought here where the industry works around the clock to wash and dry it all. From a bridge above you get a sense of the scope of the operation and cannot help but be impressed with the system. It appears to be an efficient and good system for local employment that also has become a tourist attraction in itself and a high point for this metropolis.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF2NURP6IYbXHR_cfesG14M6-YeAZnbMS_KSAvg2kgeAPg3YanixFPHFaPCKrVxZC88xcKWoTtmLeGFEhpRJk1baF3Pi4RYJsCulrgLcEw02epf0bJcFtdGQqOpEhmV5rGxbu0vqVmTOY/s1600/P1060064.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF2NURP6IYbXHR_cfesG14M6-YeAZnbMS_KSAvg2kgeAPg3YanixFPHFaPCKrVxZC88xcKWoTtmLeGFEhpRJk1baF3Pi4RYJsCulrgLcEw02epf0bJcFtdGQqOpEhmV5rGxbu0vqVmTOY/s320/P1060064.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630643042037337650" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyWRv6pkzaIpNrTdv0p7wocwLQPvv_fYsiMRBF5G18Xyo_YZkp_aAwyM-qv-uesgsF_S-xhPl52GlMAJWj9GCb1jZwBMD8CERhQqZTV8CvNcSCp0p-ShkBZ_OrpDWqH6qtQxM6v8NKPBU/s1600/P1060066.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyWRv6pkzaIpNrTdv0p7wocwLQPvv_fYsiMRBF5G18Xyo_YZkp_aAwyM-qv-uesgsF_S-xhPl52GlMAJWj9GCb1jZwBMD8CERhQqZTV8CvNcSCp0p-ShkBZ_OrpDWqH6qtQxM6v8NKPBU/s320/P1060066.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630643032650137010" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifHjs0J1MdlCDq6QF_UL6gxcfJU3j7GKOzdA-FYFO-rEIzZYtQriKhyuS8UXuHJCmyoS8NVtwQUh-uB-tbM0FgWYE8lTZzdSQ7NQ0zK-UkObxBH4IFBrQwmzjV8MQc9kuVaMHs5ZAvZY8/s1600/P1060069.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifHjs0J1MdlCDq6QF_UL6gxcfJU3j7GKOzdA-FYFO-rEIzZYtQriKhyuS8UXuHJCmyoS8NVtwQUh-uB-tbM0FgWYE8lTZzdSQ7NQ0zK-UkObxBH4IFBrQwmzjV8MQc9kuVaMHs5ZAvZY8/s320/P1060069.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630643030517939426" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal">At this point, Shilpa left us and Alan, Andrew, and I returned to our hotel for a nice dinner at the restaurant atop the Taj and yet another relaxing night in the heavenly beds. The next morning we were off again, but this time out of Mumbai. Again, courtesy of Alan’s generosity, I boarded a plane alongside my friends to the lakeside city of Udaipur. If we were missing the Taj Mahal hotel at all on arrival, its luxuries were quickly out of mind at the sight of our new hotel in Udaipur—<a href="http://www.oberoihotels.com/oberoi_udaivilas/index.asp">the Oberoi Udaivilas</a>. This luxury property is on the opposite side of the lake from the main city, giving it a beautiful view from the spa pool. On the other side of the hotel, our rooms opened only a beautiful grass court for croquet, relaxing, or other activities. I have to say, after these two hotel stays, I wasn’t sure how easy it would be to go back to living the life of a student traveler, staying in hostels and living on a budget.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbb21bBb-DBqcut_suz__POI8TOEMd-Ilq6SA5rL7_LRJYyXpjWB0-_YI_ybFGVJ_NBN9-2_mSpRaVo9vIEOjBsAo0GWcmmWTZbKsjove-C3V-x6_zh8GR_Q6sPl_2ZQL5LD4lQOXhU30/s1600/P1060090.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbb21bBb-DBqcut_suz__POI8TOEMd-Ilq6SA5rL7_LRJYyXpjWB0-_YI_ybFGVJ_NBN9-2_mSpRaVo9vIEOjBsAo0GWcmmWTZbKsjove-C3V-x6_zh8GR_Q6sPl_2ZQL5LD4lQOXhU30/s320/P1060090.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630643024168195378" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjHoxJBDR85KrCjtF8pBbQjgOO5RPXC6ZC_vDvhfepZjomiE0pYyu34FQ4DVmxwg0MgQ3R3bZANcKO640kvAyb4Zntbks0pCA4zvFne8acNbdViT0bUYe8vVqDSkoED3yBQuMRFdR4MwQ/s1600/P1060123.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjHoxJBDR85KrCjtF8pBbQjgOO5RPXC6ZC_vDvhfepZjomiE0pYyu34FQ4DVmxwg0MgQ3R3bZANcKO640kvAyb4Zntbks0pCA4zvFne8acNbdViT0bUYe8vVqDSkoED3yBQuMRFdR4MwQ/s320/P1060123.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630643018738705762" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></p><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0w_OeC32sJ_mB5Zcc8-xEmnaNUB0eLrv1zSSY7F7TOjtf0OhIz913W0mYWhqPVAXsRrNF4PsNXQFJi-1stOeNKLG-7XFf0Xsud7WuiWlCjfnG_yzwZfPAjaKYG4MnQdOB8IYaTDDys-s/s1600/P1060129.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0w_OeC32sJ_mB5Zcc8-xEmnaNUB0eLrv1zSSY7F7TOjtf0OhIz913W0mYWhqPVAXsRrNF4PsNXQFJi-1stOeNKLG-7XFf0Xsud7WuiWlCjfnG_yzwZfPAjaKYG4MnQdOB8IYaTDDys-s/s320/P1060129.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630643399289837858" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjInVtrbfW5DkIEKRWs-ZRvug1rDzR6-jqJmw_XyWXsiVV-qGxfdOP6GPmZC9IYbWQ9P310OYW2xSYGFRM1jh1b69DAUq8X19sqcaJeQQZCre63siGH87leUQqIzhLHbKLpf9m1vGCz7CA/s1600/P1060130.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjInVtrbfW5DkIEKRWs-ZRvug1rDzR6-jqJmw_XyWXsiVV-qGxfdOP6GPmZC9IYbWQ9P310OYW2xSYGFRM1jh1b69DAUq8X19sqcaJeQQZCre63siGH87leUQqIzhLHbKLpf9m1vGCz7CA/s320/P1060130.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630643391517354194" style="display: block; 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margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxCPqiV11I049qLo_R7TFKfz_FbpL50ngXoBHMflKJEOA5jTx8Ag-leV43gYdirKmdGm4zjBTvXnja0rRAs4cT4g9v7WhSCbNP1U2xHobWOe3u_8O2B80D7wK-JfYnynhEBskKRRQ5bYc/s1600/P1060565.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxCPqiV11I049qLo_R7TFKfz_FbpL50ngXoBHMflKJEOA5jTx8Ag-leV43gYdirKmdGm4zjBTvXnja0rRAs4cT4g9v7WhSCbNP1U2xHobWOe3u_8O2B80D7wK-JfYnynhEBskKRRQ5bYc/s320/P1060565.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630643863160365474" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF-6ZJY1eDawL1yFiRRYOc55BSRlmxghV5lsoM7cQZ-yOT50i9CcnhudFdRdemty9AjFOZ-G5ooAKU7idiDcfZDiOegCdP8r9daZylmJhHX8dIzRvgLUkqeDC_ClBusFLkBekqNTbwX9U/s1600/P1060566.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF-6ZJY1eDawL1yFiRRYOc55BSRlmxghV5lsoM7cQZ-yOT50i9CcnhudFdRdemty9AjFOZ-G5ooAKU7idiDcfZDiOegCdP8r9daZylmJhHX8dIzRvgLUkqeDC_ClBusFLkBekqNTbwX9U/s320/P1060566.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630643861084434674" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd25yALUA2vGqR4hZDSFyPogXuUM_nYmdepsaJodLyBz0lwzhUqQWaa82hDPH80JlAuvXZpb1l82Dj8txZWZGrO4INLqjMQxtdiMuU8RP60HzxVAmQF0j7cg_0ftuVGwQ6W0S6o5slk7w/s1600/P1060438.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd25yALUA2vGqR4hZDSFyPogXuUM_nYmdepsaJodLyBz0lwzhUqQWaa82hDPH80JlAuvXZpb1l82Dj8txZWZGrO4INLqjMQxtdiMuU8RP60HzxVAmQF0j7cg_0ftuVGwQ6W0S6o5slk7w/s320/P1060438.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630643853849364626" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></div> <p class="MsoNormal">But back to Udaipur. The city itself is a gorgeous, old Rajasthani kingdom situated on the shores of a beautiful lake. Nestled among hills, it is an oasis within the surrounding desert and beautifully picturesque. This became apparent to Andrew and me as we toured the lake with our new guide, Siddhartha, before dinner but after a relaxing afternoon at the hotel spa pool. From the water, we saw the huge city palace, several other former royal residences and living quarters, some of which are even on islands in the lake, and numerous 5 star hotels, one of which is only accessible by boat. The houses of the nobility and bridges across the rivers entering the lake provided the perfect backdrop to the regal residences and provided a continuous, elegant yet varied landscape on the border of the water.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD5f8wF8Pl2ZX-ibbCTrcKHmlDGqNwuVGvYb50oRRKrQvbClUcF1PaXGjaM2P5n31rHgwnWVAEOE8zkvK5dOdSxqs-VPbGOEBoDIofzfnPjcL9j-YxNruWWhLGRk1XKDBbAkhTR1Yko24/s320/P1060151.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630643852501614114" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></p><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1seSv2aY7bBiW9YonwyaSn9hSv1xIWnMFiLvhmA2y8E1X7Fhrn8hTW8JhJf-ik_h90VTT-UTWFtNHkDt6HA2vR-byHKmkDvbcUHkdEoe_Jtx-hJZhTvk5RcpiS27ixmZlKqwo3-6MXwc/s1600/P1060154.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1seSv2aY7bBiW9YonwyaSn9hSv1xIWnMFiLvhmA2y8E1X7Fhrn8hTW8JhJf-ik_h90VTT-UTWFtNHkDt6HA2vR-byHKmkDvbcUHkdEoe_Jtx-hJZhTvk5RcpiS27ixmZlKqwo3-6MXwc/s320/P1060154.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630644253203756786" style="display: block; 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margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></div> <p class="MsoNormal">After our boat ride around the lake, our guide took us back to the hotel and then whisked me away on his motorbike to change train tickets (Alan and I had some scheduling confusion and I had to change a couple of tickets). Gripping Siddhartha’s shoulders, I whizzed through many different parts of the town including the tourist area and the old quarter. Because we were only on a motorbike, we were able to weave through cows, traffic, spice carts, and pedestrians with the air flying by the whole time. To me, it was a quintessential Indian experience as this is how much of the population gets around on a daily basis.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">After this, it was back to the hotel in a rickshaw for dinner with Andrew and Alan. Because Alan’s stomach was a little tender from the Indian food, we stayed in the hotel and ate the five-star fare. The setting overlooking the water was quite romantic with the palace and noble houses across the way beautifully lit at night. The mood was further accentuated by the traditional Indian melodies softly emanating from the flute and drums on the side of the patio. From time to time, a dancer would join the players, adding her sensual yet elegant movements to the beat ad the soft tingling of the shakers on her feet and wrists to the rhythm. In fact, this atmosphere proved so captivating (and Andrew’s and Alan’s stomachs so sensitive to Indian food) that we ate here every night in Udaipur. I can’t say I had any complaints with this either.</p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjCv30vEXAw7urIvuOGlpHnkgyjsUzvgbn-9e2ASmLL8TeEJohlLvMfG1tO5I9bPV2kbfnDBn0CIrJsDtITyQZ_PQdtNb8hTL2CRWEeHVFU8t8LycM-_n4JQsM4vsssEx74C0w_4lqmOI/s320/P1060221.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630644677629310034" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></p><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKlkR00Zqb55dlU2Xl0yOaS4aAvJFtzulq8XXp6pe8zqILkaGGD1Mctvd6OPYw5G9nMqn-nds6wlmzEZbXFKpzW6bVu6x6BkURpgdISqWF3_fdzXa5TKAhR4cLF7NXpDGHexYwtE2-b2s/s320/P1060222.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630645196772941538" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></span></div> <p class="MsoNormal">With Alan feeling better the next day, we were up and off to explore Udaipur. The day began with a tour of the city palace, the former residence of kings and queens of Udaipur that now houses a hotel. The palace was abuzz with activity during our visit because a member of the royal family was to be wed the following week. Preparations abounded and included a band practicing in the courtyard, painters frantically touching up the murals on the walls, and women stringing together flowers and carefully making bouquets. Even without this added decoration and activity, the palace was beautiful. Built with the same style and tricks as many of the other Rajasthani palaces but with, of course, its own flair, it commanded sweeping views of the lake and the surrounding hills. Perhaps my favorite part, however, was the planted courtyard within the center of the top level with shade trees and fountains that then dropped down a staircase to a beautifully tiled mosaic plaza with several peacock fountains. The detail and colors were amazing and were beautifully accented by the stark white of the plaster throughout the building.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOPasRqecsi7_Gdp8VGOxLETP61AVVs4GKjHasNmwvtU96hrJ-C4CIIbqfZPGkK7nPFK3PZK9aYMBL_G0YovB2_ij7cUePF2vPLjOIapXEcWxNBfjLfEy7i_54zc9DWLRoRnWTqI2YYL4/s1600/P1060228.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOPasRqecsi7_Gdp8VGOxLETP61AVVs4GKjHasNmwvtU96hrJ-C4CIIbqfZPGkK7nPFK3PZK9aYMBL_G0YovB2_ij7cUePF2vPLjOIapXEcWxNBfjLfEy7i_54zc9DWLRoRnWTqI2YYL4/s320/P1060228.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630645188283847378" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-oE8qYIjfzW3d-O7I-jNl2ZH6QCgpOwOKflHMjrlIfNHrAzLfYKhReBmbNOlgE0t1WjqU1JUe3201lRw8RCeIKDPR7C8y2yXm-ciUJc0t-Lrzj3H8InngvGspXrNlzTN4p14q186ZpNg/s1600/P1060230.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-oE8qYIjfzW3d-O7I-jNl2ZH6QCgpOwOKflHMjrlIfNHrAzLfYKhReBmbNOlgE0t1WjqU1JUe3201lRw8RCeIKDPR7C8y2yXm-ciUJc0t-Lrzj3H8InngvGspXrNlzTN4p14q186ZpNg/s320/P1060230.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630645185514997682" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqzomOGv9Uf00IYbLtSgofNqzRhyphenhypheniKDritXDj8slaCiBZIZW-nM4Rsy977YwfgbWV9wbT83sBf_NP1l_X-7X2Gle-qOLWbA3kps02pXwEVQ_9CW5EE7_qX9E9J_V8lLFHExUcHcd9ni08/s1600/P1060231.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqzomOGv9Uf00IYbLtSgofNqzRhyphenhypheniKDritXDj8slaCiBZIZW-nM4Rsy977YwfgbWV9wbT83sBf_NP1l_X-7X2Gle-qOLWbA3kps02pXwEVQ_9CW5EE7_qX9E9J_V8lLFHExUcHcd9ni08/s320/P1060231.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630645180263626450" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></p><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjdNbGsw54wPhuNUz_jFoE8D38kvFNmQGd6U8hOQzvlVpUQmUhxwFxFtZVnuHum9SXBunAdBIXm-n4gy9l2n8NXZ9SI1M6LGm-qCUptXQ54S9bUCBQOm4LFTh9FNSGPtW6B-zjcGykbZw/s1600/P1060243.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjdNbGsw54wPhuNUz_jFoE8D38kvFNmQGd6U8hOQzvlVpUQmUhxwFxFtZVnuHum9SXBunAdBIXm-n4gy9l2n8NXZ9SI1M6LGm-qCUptXQ54S9bUCBQOm4LFTh9FNSGPtW6B-zjcGykbZw/s320/P1060243.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630645174106608322" style="text-align: left; display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE0_1SWMcAbGSqUuGFV1KpKVu6HksQtPp7RThd487E6qicRCLoZJc0vLFtJFkbDTczSIzk-UUo-1HYV6VOTh9YRWuUueBv6ino1cUOQJOsxmyIBfGpKbfIbVD8PDsDCp5Rkrwu4CoxCcs/s1600/P1060252.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE0_1SWMcAbGSqUuGFV1KpKVu6HksQtPp7RThd487E6qicRCLoZJc0vLFtJFkbDTczSIzk-UUo-1HYV6VOTh9YRWuUueBv6ino1cUOQJOsxmyIBfGpKbfIbVD8PDsDCp5Rkrwu4CoxCcs/s320/P1060252.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630645645615971410" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUYqyHQS_gU-Oe5EOeb_uypXJrz6bmtwCaWmw3IdkxnvXv6zSlaUWZv1JcWzjzqWe4WIgVk5pz4U9KYheaYk_IauiTFR3KbP7ov0yHpFSt23qfrTSCQuGI2f4V4ODxrb_NJ_AUmuPWRdI/s1600/P1060255.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUYqyHQS_gU-Oe5EOeb_uypXJrz6bmtwCaWmw3IdkxnvXv6zSlaUWZv1JcWzjzqWe4WIgVk5pz4U9KYheaYk_IauiTFR3KbP7ov0yHpFSt23qfrTSCQuGI2f4V4ODxrb_NJ_AUmuPWRdI/s320/P1060255.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630645639906014530" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ-IYTNVE_-OhrqHTmnk052WyuSPNKqEnwo3SdAMVeJC2ujY-3m05Y4-oHRFp_sb8muoZ0i3cV7Tmc522S_mWzWjJlEHacc7JcI1UbA0AtgFuV2TmZkdejQCQc0Sj6coPsk0zcGS6iPNg/s1600/P1060284.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ-IYTNVE_-OhrqHTmnk052WyuSPNKqEnwo3SdAMVeJC2ujY-3m05Y4-oHRFp_sb8muoZ0i3cV7Tmc522S_mWzWjJlEHacc7JcI1UbA0AtgFuV2TmZkdejQCQc0Sj6coPsk0zcGS6iPNg/s320/P1060284.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630645640774391474" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpJlx5zpN8aLglosv8cWePFf2N9ppd8NijmfqSyMvJqVtc7Hkp1UhPIGU99r210PoUxnxmNWKSwc0EpFLozfhcFXRUOdYvERbPD99whnSFg7g1KWc3WfLVw63zfsfGM6Yq7UfeW6ajCTM/s1600/P1060296.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpJlx5zpN8aLglosv8cWePFf2N9ppd8NijmfqSyMvJqVtc7Hkp1UhPIGU99r210PoUxnxmNWKSwc0EpFLozfhcFXRUOdYvERbPD99whnSFg7g1KWc3WfLVw63zfsfGM6Yq7UfeW6ajCTM/s320/P1060296.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630645635993890386" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRhjsXshqiv-csx6AWHgMPNtCLXGvy_-rJf5zHR0lfDbf4TWN3kqMspbwQmXyGS6IjcMFqMRryu88qqQLQ-MmmWoxxtTY9kCmTTGbtcimgCaHrzH9n7a1_0kV2OEJI3OJFzWUBRAd7NqU/s1600/P1060301.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRhjsXshqiv-csx6AWHgMPNtCLXGvy_-rJf5zHR0lfDbf4TWN3kqMspbwQmXyGS6IjcMFqMRryu88qqQLQ-MmmWoxxtTY9kCmTTGbtcimgCaHrzH9n7a1_0kV2OEJI3OJFzWUBRAd7NqU/s320/P1060301.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630645630023453266" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></div><p></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnzPk3PeI3sOWXV1LL2CMl-mvCSSwy1qy0kPQaAPtCgnaEUQgCNvcPQAmRWwYzE_Jyq3zzr9y-thyphenhyphenq6NsLXlIYxXjzOswcHlt6fHNIKsLVhgXDKG3siJ46ypvg0JitjpAn1CXuqUB0TYw/s320/P1060306.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630646033427429122" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal">With a few last glances toward the lake, we were off again, this time to another Vishnu temple. This one, in the heart of the city, is still a place of pilgrimage for Hindu worshippers and one of the main attractions of the city. Just steps from the palace gates, its white edifice towers over passersby and its imposing elephant guards command respect from the first step across the threshold. The altarpiece is a beautiful representation of the god himself that when revealed from behind its black curtain is like a glowing heart at the center of the alabaster pyramid.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrqqPZvULDWzvsKU5_icKH3zySVQQfKqYE8qJmVoljqLN-aydrsOdwRIO7WQ8f7ypmfqqsIZzrPLJ8bRRuAwexeu-DzJlGbja3DN8pXsrpvybMk3BfPwd4MRe_Ox3USSAQ52KqbOQcJwQ/s1600/P1060328.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrqqPZvULDWzvsKU5_icKH3zySVQQfKqYE8qJmVoljqLN-aydrsOdwRIO7WQ8f7ypmfqqsIZzrPLJ8bRRuAwexeu-DzJlGbja3DN8pXsrpvybMk3BfPwd4MRe_Ox3USSAQ52KqbOQcJwQ/s320/P1060328.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630646029068364898" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRRqoZFkEl_GVl0_NJkIbURo-0T3npJg2kSBFle-gAZGoycJnU_FpZA8VZwrL8DUs_xb40xDyakg3RRX3RtFZqIxowtJ3WOw12LWMwfyQveeNXgAh9nvMwDfx49AN_xACblbqR4CRaRHA/s1600/P1060335.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRRqoZFkEl_GVl0_NJkIbURo-0T3npJg2kSBFle-gAZGoycJnU_FpZA8VZwrL8DUs_xb40xDyakg3RRX3RtFZqIxowtJ3WOw12LWMwfyQveeNXgAh9nvMwDfx49AN_xACblbqR4CRaRHA/s320/P1060335.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630646025717061874" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal">After respectfully touring the site, we left the worshippers to their devotion and proceeded off to the city park, another main attraction. Here, in the former garden of kings and queens is a lovely, well-kept (especially by Indian standards) park with many beautiful varieties of flowers and a gorgeous elephant fountain as its piece de resistance. However for me, the highlight was actually a section called the rain garden where the trickling fountains and wind through the broad palm leaves created an auditory wonderland that, when one closes his eyes, will fool even the most astute listener into believing himself in the midst of the tropical rainforest. Judging by the goofy grin on Alan’s face here, I don’t think I was the only one who liked it.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmBv-OWJ0OHCcQO7zcJ18dT3JyC4M-AIOCYWXju0IFGTHMb9TEJtMGAjg2Pp3R6Gbs9yQXm9JMhSV3rUtrUPs3cV_q4EaASwoWRt5Pgp7rs4I4neWVZ_bt3E0ek6o3EE9WOu8Q_b9xnm0/s1600/P1060346.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmBv-OWJ0OHCcQO7zcJ18dT3JyC4M-AIOCYWXju0IFGTHMb9TEJtMGAjg2Pp3R6Gbs9yQXm9JMhSV3rUtrUPs3cV_q4EaASwoWRt5Pgp7rs4I4neWVZ_bt3E0ek6o3EE9WOu8Q_b9xnm0/s320/P1060346.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630646024802763954" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlT-2OKBVfHBFOAoR108k_WdpXq2ZPWHK9_vskKDHY_Sw7j39ycEUcOB2wb6SOYl-7Q2TUbQe2YVZCn9jNW77EZLUI4msXGpbNwON1PhEph-fwYt713F2c9vefM4tGjcGWn1x6ZVS76Dk/s1600/P1060355.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlT-2OKBVfHBFOAoR108k_WdpXq2ZPWHK9_vskKDHY_Sw7j39ycEUcOB2wb6SOYl-7Q2TUbQe2YVZCn9jNW77EZLUI4msXGpbNwON1PhEph-fwYt713F2c9vefM4tGjcGWn1x6ZVS76Dk/s320/P1060355.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630646022420458786" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></p><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZHZXQlC-JUHtiPSMlETi-55p7t2x6i7FoRpMWLVnF9EEK4NgBIQegBbo_vPbQQI7CQyrfvOPNvpd6J-dciJvgtKO-qmmzxtMNOogSJA7ICUI2y4jOdfgHuPw63OPyuTAGHj0DndmNWwQ/s320/P1060359.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630646765962876978" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></span></div> <p class="MsoNormal">Though the garden was gorgeous and inspiring, we had no idea that the best was yet to come. After a quick stop to refuel, we were off once more to the city market. Siddhartha, our guide, had arranged this excursion so we could see what life really was like in Udaipur. We wandered through the old part of the town among the fruit and spice sellers watching as locals came to peruse the goods, haggle over prices, and finally walk away with their treasures. Overhead, tangles of electrical wires revealed only glimpses of the watchful eyes on balconies protruding from the ever-changing, multi-colored facades lining the market street. All of us just stood and marveled at the market—the variety of fruits and spices provided a symphony of color and an olfactory overload that lingers in my memory to this day. And the sellers themselves added to the charm of this place. Their faces, tanned and hardened in the sun from sitting many days to sell their wares, surveyed each potential customer, perhaps weighing in their minds the prices to offer for the produce to each.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit06waJMg_LTOGDfUu3-72mNLFO06FfT11iJNK29OqztV_JAlrNBTuU0hajMZPxtatgOIHKM-abwDcsEvyIA1VicJ4TPUkPhDOZ50uaZR1uHV0nksef4I1ca_2ZYF7857TxIrgLYK5Cbk/s1600/P1060378.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit06waJMg_LTOGDfUu3-72mNLFO06FfT11iJNK29OqztV_JAlrNBTuU0hajMZPxtatgOIHKM-abwDcsEvyIA1VicJ4TPUkPhDOZ50uaZR1uHV0nksef4I1ca_2ZYF7857TxIrgLYK5Cbk/s320/P1060378.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630646762080333490" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfti84OyQbVmtWOyetTMkEKvOhETVTG2udmMqgPa8u81O8htEMEEOa_WZMkh7dd1nPeXnz2q7wvbINsK_6GiIkdnLJGk-eehckwdkEwEclC0pJOrWdHixDCAzEE8TnzVhwbsZ5dpItoiI/s1600/P1060386.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfti84OyQbVmtWOyetTMkEKvOhETVTG2udmMqgPa8u81O8htEMEEOa_WZMkh7dd1nPeXnz2q7wvbINsK_6GiIkdnLJGk-eehckwdkEwEclC0pJOrWdHixDCAzEE8TnzVhwbsZ5dpItoiI/s320/P1060386.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630646754491893074" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRhrjQhHbQk70TJB9TRVWw21Gd-hzwExSKAvkuJ2YLx45f3Ip-wlGIgXYzhU_7VOU0QA1RBiWGiV1SxZdFZsXtcn7-DBm821hLHAKWYvtst-Aycc3VB9EriWmUdq944Vhxcwuue3Y_UqE/s1600/P1060387.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRhrjQhHbQk70TJB9TRVWw21Gd-hzwExSKAvkuJ2YLx45f3Ip-wlGIgXYzhU_7VOU0QA1RBiWGiV1SxZdFZsXtcn7-DBm821hLHAKWYvtst-Aycc3VB9EriWmUdq944Vhxcwuue3Y_UqE/s320/P1060387.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630646745581419010" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqZtQpCw2sNVMCy4WSRSju57aHMjqXuQ-qdzSVLdooqvwKqEo0AqJMTJhRerhnx7ZSLwdx_zvlyeDrx9kOXYgwbS6yCupbIvqXKU4XwV7jd4OMTD2ErxiCJaNho5Tj5rw7A6-m7ecWIdU/s1600/P1060389.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqZtQpCw2sNVMCy4WSRSju57aHMjqXuQ-qdzSVLdooqvwKqEo0AqJMTJhRerhnx7ZSLwdx_zvlyeDrx9kOXYgwbS6yCupbIvqXKU4XwV7jd4OMTD2ErxiCJaNho5Tj5rw7A6-m7ecWIdU/s320/P1060389.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630646743231598642" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9LtIMnA1MgXJc8q3_sF9cafdD7DOKpHQ11xpS-h0LiwDyANuA1-FQcNn6rk8g6OvQ0Ek4Y-D2Z6Hh_72tODxCcnBBknego_fQb55V2k4nNl1apxpHCeBQH167dsirgrC5m1GYLxA7JSw/s1600/P1060390.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9LtIMnA1MgXJc8q3_sF9cafdD7DOKpHQ11xpS-h0LiwDyANuA1-FQcNn6rk8g6OvQ0Ek4Y-D2Z6Hh_72tODxCcnBBknego_fQb55V2k4nNl1apxpHCeBQH167dsirgrC5m1GYLxA7JSw/s320/P1060390.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630647125877304866" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix4BCNqE49w5hGAAjOExhgOShy-F0Sg07bAivyDNlNBr6KwsTffw45cHT_NFV-b8wl0im4ixwSlR4jUIlPL313U0APgHch31sETAQRhthZhMeyOBGCKO3INWUJRUh4aqMnutFfemsToF0/s1600/P1060392.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix4BCNqE49w5hGAAjOExhgOShy-F0Sg07bAivyDNlNBr6KwsTffw45cHT_NFV-b8wl0im4ixwSlR4jUIlPL313U0APgHch31sETAQRhthZhMeyOBGCKO3INWUJRUh4aqMnutFfemsToF0/s320/P1060392.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630647123913764082" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUWndx9E9RBWvVWvZCD_GaJ_X7_uLH9kv_f1aJneGcp5nFyEh-O2myr3cIrgp5PDxesazgLL1y05uAEPeLAHBD_xXEL5BsRYpxz4qQXjnqVqeY_9a4BgBeExfod2CNCRAlUaImQvU-0mA/s1600/P1060396.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUWndx9E9RBWvVWvZCD_GaJ_X7_uLH9kv_f1aJneGcp5nFyEh-O2myr3cIrgp5PDxesazgLL1y05uAEPeLAHBD_xXEL5BsRYpxz4qQXjnqVqeY_9a4BgBeExfod2CNCRAlUaImQvU-0mA/s320/P1060396.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630647123290369826" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj12z114qS_ncx7OmS8kVr7cLsLyH7Ii5FUfA2MNRoK6Na5SfG0pCDxF6xPp91LwtriV3Ecrmc0eDSOjTVUwzVWywz5HZvdwevN7sEO5zvkIhgLxP248ulz7T089w4JLhhxQ_scUF1onyg/s1600/P1060405.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj12z114qS_ncx7OmS8kVr7cLsLyH7Ii5FUfA2MNRoK6Na5SfG0pCDxF6xPp91LwtriV3Ecrmc0eDSOjTVUwzVWywz5HZvdwevN7sEO5zvkIhgLxP248ulz7T089w4JLhhxQ_scUF1onyg/s320/P1060405.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630647117663195026" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjumi-l9r7BCtF9QldTgPVUrAYiqOLovcqim0EnoHLV53pV2MJo57VZL6BTCXd7cWcKFZCLPFe6XYSz2a0W3dACBjAKsdaYcAUfDZxr3zQ1PIhmsN9L0O-U_y2OlWRt758udDghg3ETVNs/s1600/P1060406.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjumi-l9r7BCtF9QldTgPVUrAYiqOLovcqim0EnoHLV53pV2MJo57VZL6BTCXd7cWcKFZCLPFe6XYSz2a0W3dACBjAKsdaYcAUfDZxr3zQ1PIhmsN9L0O-U_y2OlWRt758udDghg3ETVNs/s320/P1060406.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630647117456133506" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></p><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQgZvuEfPN-OAiQSgianowEZVsS5NJwBWnzjlNaj-XF_aZJbz5XpJqJD1oeaHi7rQmiIvYcaEbkTaVz-djKne57wKxoGNCvV2Cg2FjoqtMA0VOrAAQbjxU6dyBkokflcf6fWZoDvGn9Gk/s1600/P1060407.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQgZvuEfPN-OAiQSgianowEZVsS5NJwBWnzjlNaj-XF_aZJbz5XpJqJD1oeaHi7rQmiIvYcaEbkTaVz-djKne57wKxoGNCvV2Cg2FjoqtMA0VOrAAQbjxU6dyBkokflcf6fWZoDvGn9Gk/s320/P1060407.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630648020541290050" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2dWuOvhZqJUlilKzpWGXBz2SIoRzRtDlkWgHOdhaB4qiHNailxV7EmCjWHabhHnZwXUImrR8I8iGHtJLgvLQrBTBs_HGhA6LbGy8FQGgaiBHvnIm5Rhji_Gaabd8xhbxb7oUXbHrHAsM/s1600/P1060408.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2dWuOvhZqJUlilKzpWGXBz2SIoRzRtDlkWgHOdhaB4qiHNailxV7EmCjWHabhHnZwXUImrR8I8iGHtJLgvLQrBTBs_HGhA6LbGy8FQGgaiBHvnIm5Rhji_Gaabd8xhbxb7oUXbHrHAsM/s320/P1060408.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630648010383038530" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheJok0IMwUfgT1kd9GLsXh24Or0XxOgtbspqA_IafN42Pz2Cx9O2PuxxSU7g_EEzu3lqkyHASXHyvHd9El6p3LIEmGR0JS3bLS_nfv013_BLJJbaINxayEi0ApBDdcnXLIJYXYDryHToU/s1600/P1060416.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheJok0IMwUfgT1kd9GLsXh24Or0XxOgtbspqA_IafN42Pz2Cx9O2PuxxSU7g_EEzu3lqkyHASXHyvHd9El6p3LIEmGR0JS3bLS_nfv013_BLJJbaINxayEi0ApBDdcnXLIJYXYDryHToU/s320/P1060416.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630648007482206738" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbRDvqibXqm5x_VBdB9ukFcmSpibQou95p2W6AUvuc4WgsythVD764XnhoKUEq9k4JsBlmoMBpcO9EBm7fUHlPENwdMghxgYAMrAO5mhOf69Vuyqc7dpDmrITFVbZ_WUCxza_clOBsYQk/s1600/P1060421.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbRDvqibXqm5x_VBdB9ukFcmSpibQou95p2W6AUvuc4WgsythVD764XnhoKUEq9k4JsBlmoMBpcO9EBm7fUHlPENwdMghxgYAMrAO5mhOf69Vuyqc7dpDmrITFVbZ_WUCxza_clOBsYQk/s320/P1060421.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630647997415949074" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></div><p class="MsoNormal">After a long walk here and seeing some interesting foods and specialties of the region as well as some cows and cute children, we headed back to the hotel for a bit more R&R and to see the local boars and deer come out for dinner.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_mIXW5jI8SBMi2O3nQ59QhWRRfeAC4VLMUgNXFclXUWg6dhfS2CuEDf2ayYUF9vV9s-fIS7Mp3lFN4c8p1p58BGMI8-rUz4cJPEURMF36RW3EJm0gjr75krXs7H_R0lT-VA83JceFBuo/s320/P1060423.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630647999389628850" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">It turns out that our hotel abuts a wildlife refuge and so as part of their permission for building on the site, the hotel puts out food for the local deer and boars each night. The spectacle is advertised by staff for visitors to watch and catch a glimpse of the animals in action. Being nature lovers, Andrew and I decided this night to take in this sight and so headed out to the back of the property to watch. It was cool to see the boars and deer, but more interesting to see a peacock fan its tail in an unsuccessful mating attempt (poor guy).</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtBawDwVMi_NPvebwk2rt2ZkBbVYEbBc5y7H7h1gyp8qHmPw4TfR0vIVJEP4Ps8u7kRKwxP5CIRNAohZ1Kz1V5-HE5XfPoNcnXGT5rHlgZciVdfbVIQAr40C8HwmkdYYUb5ykvqjnfSS0/s1600/P1060441.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtBawDwVMi_NPvebwk2rt2ZkBbVYEbBc5y7H7h1gyp8qHmPw4TfR0vIVJEP4Ps8u7kRKwxP5CIRNAohZ1Kz1V5-HE5XfPoNcnXGT5rHlgZciVdfbVIQAr40C8HwmkdYYUb5ykvqjnfSS0/s320/P1060441.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630648666731258370" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSoQ1GAZXaBVOScQksyXCQze_foSFy92mG6QNb6ujmzb8VT8upATCyLKlT8UsyK3CpB4MJsiAMG2L8_O7D4kq1v9e3SmkTaxaaVKrONfzLVyeCk1npazLGbKKvflpeq69_I2D0NlxG2fk/s1600/P1060450.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSoQ1GAZXaBVOScQksyXCQze_foSFy92mG6QNb6ujmzb8VT8upATCyLKlT8UsyK3CpB4MJsiAMG2L8_O7D4kq1v9e3SmkTaxaaVKrONfzLVyeCk1npazLGbKKvflpeq69_I2D0NlxG2fk/s320/P1060450.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630648663917617730" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF5wHHm9Tml7Rb7MoAGm_ZTR5nFbVg_yCz-WZqMb1J235RhYeBx_tI65cgdfGK7RXKTZwn-3oLo4ONhILcfQTNKiElZXiJbv1iMohHfF5gkjsfwZXLEqFDOojFDGjQ34TL8TAueDbfUCY/s1600/P1060456.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF5wHHm9Tml7Rb7MoAGm_ZTR5nFbVg_yCz-WZqMb1J235RhYeBx_tI65cgdfGK7RXKTZwn-3oLo4ONhILcfQTNKiElZXiJbv1iMohHfF5gkjsfwZXLEqFDOojFDGjQ34TL8TAueDbfUCY/s320/P1060456.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630648660291034514" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal">After capping the night once more with dinner at the hotel, the next morning we were up and off again, this time on a day trip to nearby temple ruins. These dated from several centuries in the past (I can’t recall the exact era) but were abandoned after being defaced by invaders who considered them idolatry since they were not dedicated to the one true god. Though the altarpieces are all gone and many of the reliefs are defaced, these temples retain an impressive appearance if only for the high level of detail on every surface—exterior and interior walls, ceilings, and roofs. Siddhartha walked us around and showed some of the more famous stories depicted on the reliefs as well as pointing out many of the gods and demons that adorn the outsides of the buildings. It was a fascinating introduction to the Hindu faith in a way that I did not get from just exploring temples on my own and formed the basis for my own analysis of temples later on in my trip. Even though these temples are no longer in use, the interiors also retain a holy feeling simply through their architecture. The massive vaulted ceilings buttressed by intricate columns and beams give an air of reverence that is accentuated by the gently slanting shafts of light that reflect softly on the light stone within to suffuse the interior with a dim light. The mounts for the altars are almost dark in this light, but I can only imagine that when the gilded effigies of the gods sat within these spaces, they probably caught the light, illuminating the space and appearing to emerge from the darkness. The effect would have been astounding.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6vGzAF2UWY9E9W2RH9-woW9yDn1KVYkCqlYbZvt0d0BbEwNxZL0vFExtMg6TUXBbKAcSgtrbeBDwEd5-p8X7DPui4Ev1e0I1mNr5xQeFHkpppsxzgZrqrclPFFgQmTtrNomWcmVpol6M/s1600/P1060478.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6vGzAF2UWY9E9W2RH9-woW9yDn1KVYkCqlYbZvt0d0BbEwNxZL0vFExtMg6TUXBbKAcSgtrbeBDwEd5-p8X7DPui4Ev1e0I1mNr5xQeFHkpppsxzgZrqrclPFFgQmTtrNomWcmVpol6M/s320/P1060478.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630648651195594258" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOr2W1xfFTS6CTB6UoY47-pNucphKa7q4v0MVAcWRydZQu0aFQw1KNs7noXPO6bqJpl8AFtg6qEvi4Ckim6tVG0nAjEsYkJucG3EkDgKIDqiM3mPgG1tcZIAHxcoMcCIthchCThGWvAPU/s1600/P1060479.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOr2W1xfFTS6CTB6UoY47-pNucphKa7q4v0MVAcWRydZQu0aFQw1KNs7noXPO6bqJpl8AFtg6qEvi4Ckim6tVG0nAjEsYkJucG3EkDgKIDqiM3mPgG1tcZIAHxcoMcCIthchCThGWvAPU/s320/P1060479.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630648651584277554" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTWBCNHeNk9BhCzOFotQdELNfGgLI-S3kaf30ZaoXUjXmxdIhtU2fX3kaI-7-wosuBb5SWFEqhMx2SyZlhZz5wdNTDl-7yGZevfGRGocIgMb_GRUI7u7VucrHe6662obB26BViFONs60Q/s1600/P1060487.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTWBCNHeNk9BhCzOFotQdELNfGgLI-S3kaf30ZaoXUjXmxdIhtU2fX3kaI-7-wosuBb5SWFEqhMx2SyZlhZz5wdNTDl-7yGZevfGRGocIgMb_GRUI7u7VucrHe6662obB26BViFONs60Q/s320/P1060487.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630649244109368674" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhesXEZsnr_ZqxOejNrIn4siiEdzGpKPN2B_W8XDd-GYyUqI_Y7Tnq2WjXFPUTL0KAvm3SCFsi73cz8v8WQ5YkZgoIO8BDHvdWdbuUkTq__wzgHYPxAD9J8kzSseFsfjEebvdWYO1lZcCI/s1600/P1060493.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhesXEZsnr_ZqxOejNrIn4siiEdzGpKPN2B_W8XDd-GYyUqI_Y7Tnq2WjXFPUTL0KAvm3SCFsi73cz8v8WQ5YkZgoIO8BDHvdWdbuUkTq__wzgHYPxAD9J8kzSseFsfjEebvdWYO1lZcCI/s320/P1060493.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630649236936271554" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5uzPbh7FE4qas8-Pwf0kH0WfeSeo2EVXqV54Yh3laHGrqwlntGXh8SsYfOeCVh8jSUGkboov_Z9ugwuR24RJHnk3Hu2FetXx7pSopQ_u7sBkP65GVkavYNXHyXmfpIiIbRREin7OcAW8/s1600/P1060510.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5uzPbh7FE4qas8-Pwf0kH0WfeSeo2EVXqV54Yh3laHGrqwlntGXh8SsYfOeCVh8jSUGkboov_Z9ugwuR24RJHnk3Hu2FetXx7pSopQ_u7sBkP65GVkavYNXHyXmfpIiIbRREin7OcAW8/s320/P1060510.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630649233045689010" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4ET9_NgL6h53PJbqhjKIuRiORAgL3T-h-R0q2b4nTHiafzVvrML0BWJDTAnHdjDU_qQBw9wcnZy5lvcG1YxE4uhzqusq4uomrrnJxXrzoOWXV15-Ucsv_QFvfbU863c-QuJOcZ9_naTY/s1600/P1060534.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4ET9_NgL6h53PJbqhjKIuRiORAgL3T-h-R0q2b4nTHiafzVvrML0BWJDTAnHdjDU_qQBw9wcnZy5lvcG1YxE4uhzqusq4uomrrnJxXrzoOWXV15-Ucsv_QFvfbU863c-QuJOcZ9_naTY/s320/P1060534.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630649228844537922" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal">When we felt satisfied with our romp through Hindu mythology, we headed up to lunch at a nice, eco-friendly hotel overlooking Udaipur before our final event in the city—a camel ride for Andrew and me. Saying he had already ridden camels in his life, Alan bowed out of the ride and instead served as the photographer as Andrew and I mounted the temperamental beasts and were led down a short walk on the lakeside and back to Alan, waiting eagerly once more with his camera.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCkqMmj4GRdGBZqQcQxdu9Ie8l7V4C-JaRfygrL94zPYMgfjQafz7onH9HXhUUKP93BynwURmiduDBUth-ghfXeBEhoBwUbM3A02ak-zAsDRBAZlp43QbsPJXBZ0yFO7fN-rgpZYs56pI/s320/P1060548.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630649226123155810" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></span></p> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTVxGLsCcsMk9ZN_EAJQS6h5JtbNUisM_6uVJpo564CPKXVrnnxLywg25LJpV00MvV_vVRzWfIH9eRSugtsaaiuKnoClTVhOhXhJoiss_3Fj00ER118fm7FPfJAJQqRxMt_FMF6pX3bzk/s1600/P1060553.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTVxGLsCcsMk9ZN_EAJQS6h5JtbNUisM_6uVJpo564CPKXVrnnxLywg25LJpV00MvV_vVRzWfIH9eRSugtsaaiuKnoClTVhOhXhJoiss_3Fj00ER118fm7FPfJAJQqRxMt_FMF6pX3bzk/s320/P1060553.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630649582001787618" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2RvhnNjhSppbpFW0iFrwuaq-2QkUE1b01Vn4Q2xmazCfxTSQMDOgQjzwBMQbtdYhAFSijBvynd57RuNSboeAh1mhxD8a6gUxDuUzAUpKgt-WBBcQEPB9X3vl0mXgX3ZxXlgyNDmucAN4/s1600/P1060555.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2RvhnNjhSppbpFW0iFrwuaq-2QkUE1b01Vn4Q2xmazCfxTSQMDOgQjzwBMQbtdYhAFSijBvynd57RuNSboeAh1mhxD8a6gUxDuUzAUpKgt-WBBcQEPB9X3vl0mXgX3ZxXlgyNDmucAN4/s320/P1060555.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630649573019396210" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPyD8h3YLuZW_OKVfkqDSszIMqR2F5ge2Bh5Scw4KP01hAcCVyXVVBk7So9cSmnzp8tpC1__x_9GDmyF8m95ik81x9EZT8mkJ7W3Ri5o6Wpa6xa1q6vtAIWoCKBGsv-yx8a0d9XFhf6FU/s1600/P1060559.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPyD8h3YLuZW_OKVfkqDSszIMqR2F5ge2Bh5Scw4KP01hAcCVyXVVBk7So9cSmnzp8tpC1__x_9GDmyF8m95ik81x9EZT8mkJ7W3Ri5o6Wpa6xa1q6vtAIWoCKBGsv-yx8a0d9XFhf6FU/s320/P1060559.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630649575980329634" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><p class="MsoNormal">After the ride, the three of us headed back to our hotel for one last evening of relaxation and enjoyment with my friends before taking my leave of them the following morning. After a relaxing dip in the pool, we sat out once more on the patio taking in the music and the lights across the way while chatting and swapping stories over wine. Having been a while since I’d seen a familiar face on my trip, it was nice to share this time with Alan and Andrew and a bit hard to leave them when it was time. However it was not to be the last I would see of them which made parting easier. I suppose it is true that you get more homesick after having a taste of something familiar—certainly it was for me. Or perhaps it was the sudden change from being driven around and staying in 5 star hotels to walking, taking buses, and living cheaply that made me miss the days that went by too quickly. Either way, I tried to make the most of that last night and enjoy as much as I could the chance to see my friends because I had learned just how valuable that time was during my previous travels alone. It’s not even that we shared anything profound—in fact the whole time we talked and joked as if we had seen each other the previous week—but the comfort of friends was nice and for a short time at least made me entirely forget any difficulties from my previous travels or upcoming adventures. </p></div>Rob Besthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09463964785697202357noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9070652898233554429.post-12742254033228025372011-07-06T15:22:00.000-07:002011-07-06T15:55:14.501-07:00Adventures in Indian Transportation (And a Weekend in Jaipur)<div style="text-align: left;">One of the most famous and well-traveled routes in India is the so-called “Golden Triangle” of Delhi, Agra, and Jaipur. With the Taj Mahal in Agra, the Red Fort and imperial might in Delhi, and the beautiful palaces of Jaipur, it is no wonder that this is such a popular route. So from the beginning of my stay, I knew that I would want to tackle all three. Toward the end of February, I finally got a good opportunity to head down to Jaipur en route to Mumbai to meet a pair of old friends traveling through.</div> <p class="MsoNormal">From the outset I should have known that this weekend would not go quite as planned, but I suppose excitement and optimism outweighed any premonition that the whole two days were to be a lesson in Indian transportation. It started, as all these things do, innocently enough. My friend who owned the hotel in which I was residing also holds a large stake in a transportation company. He had offered for me to ride shotgun in one of his trucks to Jaipur and save the cost of a train or bus fare. Partly intrigued as well to have the Indian trucker experience, I took his offer and was all set to leave. However after some reconsidering, it was decided that it would be easier and better for all parties if I did take a bus. As I said, this was an innocent enough switch, and my friends Arjun and Negi drove me to the bus station where I hopped on the first one to Jaipur. It was by no means clean or comfortable for an overnight ride, but it was a seat and that was enough.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The problem with going overnight from Delhi to Jaipur is that it isn’t really an overnight trip. After leaving Delhi around 9 pm, we arrived in Jaipur around 3 am. Still exhausted but unable to check into my hotel, I headed into the bus station, grabbed an empty chair, tied my luggage tightly to my body with the zippers facing my chest, and then dozed for the next four hours. When it was light enough to navigate the streets and late enough that I thought I could reasonably check-in to my hotel for the night, I was off. I found the hotel and was given the room but also told that I had to check out in 24 hours or pay for an extra day. That meant check-out time would be obscenely early. Again, no problem—I was going to be up early anyway to hit one last major sight and then catch a train for Mumbai (for which I had already booked my ticket).</p> <p class="MsoNormal">After a much-needed shower it was time to explore Jaipur—the pink city. Walking the old town, you really see why it has earned this moniker. Especially in the morning and evening lights, the local sandstone out of which much of the old buildings are constructed radiates a beautiful pink glow. The whole city therefore has a beautiful glow in the morning light and again as the sun sinks lower.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCqnykJjLJvhjSoNoultvwnqIkBfLO5MX2b4sPen_OLvtLgXo18x9RjyNRq_Z4vDQuRiNz1Im3eq2G0UcAgYYvta2_uim_UWvnXbtq5HtB7zOHgTnMXfnkMHWqHSHur-0RSUNZf3iNoh4/s1600/P1050293.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCqnykJjLJvhjSoNoultvwnqIkBfLO5MX2b4sPen_OLvtLgXo18x9RjyNRq_Z4vDQuRiNz1Im3eq2G0UcAgYYvta2_uim_UWvnXbtq5HtB7zOHgTnMXfnkMHWqHSHur-0RSUNZf3iNoh4/s320/P1050293.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626369111262249826" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_zJM8AkyOF_mWjUXLKv5VwqfnUwgv894HMSObU4CmegXqiF-ambAal9oYX0Y3vlqGkmp0Ms9JgyOEMJFyrVO-FADGtcfXtveIM3boQDLa4kfDcdrc4LdeQbhtUh04cL4UJdlkMQ8YTG8/s1600/P1050294.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_zJM8AkyOF_mWjUXLKv5VwqfnUwgv894HMSObU4CmegXqiF-ambAal9oYX0Y3vlqGkmp0Ms9JgyOEMJFyrVO-FADGtcfXtveIM3boQDLa4kfDcdrc4LdeQbhtUh04cL4UJdlkMQ8YTG8/s320/P1050294.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626369106110867346" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal">One of the most sublime sights is the Hawa Mahal—the former women’s palace for the princesses of the city. In all of its pink glory, its Rajasthani architecture (a mix of Mughal and traditional styles) towers over the narrow shopping street below, arched windows and ornate jalli screens maintaining an air of dignity over the frenzied activity at its feet. With the blue sky behind, the reddish glow is stunning in the morning as the sun brilliantly shines on the façade. Across the street are stairs you can climb to get a better look. It’s free to do this, and if you can’t find the way, a friendly shopowner will gladly guide you and then lead you to his store, professing that you will certainly get a good price because as the first customer of the day, you will bring him luck for the whole day if you buy (the prices were not at all good, even with my first customer discount!).</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_T3PwmJfZgGcGqrUHjAnoKTy8-R0iQydWlKcgvP2Fv35XZ5dKgJd5F7DOICSq6NriB6b11Atyvn5IkFkwC8vbllWUKcgrOkzDzjbbFib6Wtrag84G39h0b1GPvej5IAhXkPoiQLtt3PU/s1600/P1050656.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_T3PwmJfZgGcGqrUHjAnoKTy8-R0iQydWlKcgvP2Fv35XZ5dKgJd5F7DOICSq6NriB6b11Atyvn5IkFkwC8vbllWUKcgrOkzDzjbbFib6Wtrag84G39h0b1GPvej5IAhXkPoiQLtt3PU/s320/P1050656.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626369101953988850" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsm5Emjhar6KaXZC-E65TZSMqD8OaUYnDoIhu0RXlFgunpTFDLSEOEloN4_sZIYPXsOYvM2KGWVcYed8auhMwQW01bULN-eAXdjLKnvCEM4TjivmWTs3bUC6jN_pax3RO_bPcouiv3ebo/s1600/Panorama+2.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsm5Emjhar6KaXZC-E65TZSMqD8OaUYnDoIhu0RXlFgunpTFDLSEOEloN4_sZIYPXsOYvM2KGWVcYed8auhMwQW01bULN-eAXdjLKnvCEM4TjivmWTs3bUC6jN_pax3RO_bPcouiv3ebo/s320/Panorama+2.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626369094308929858" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 130px; " /></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal">I’ll return to the Hawa Mahal later, because at this time, all I did was enjoy its beauty from afar. After escaping my friendly shopkeeper and ignoring his repeated yells of lower prices at my retreating back, I headed back through the old city to see it in its full glory now that the sun was a little higher. As I wandered, I came across a column built in honor of a glorious victory that could be climbed to gain a better view over Jaipur. Interested to gain this perspective, I climbed to the top only to be met by a beautiful panorama taking in some of the areas most stunning sights—the once proud Tiger Fort, the City Palace, Royal Observatory, and of course, the Hawa Mahal (though not the principal façade). I lingered here for a while admiring the city’s layout and looking at the sprawling new portion of Jaipur. An interesting architect I had met explained to me that Jaipur is laid out in the foothills of the surrounding hills such that it is well protected from the tough Rajasthani desert climate. The hills protect from the harsh desert winds while also helping to catch much-needed rain. The dense clustering of the city’s nine quarters helped keep streets cool and use thermal mass to store heat in winter. It is too bad that the planners of the new part with its broad, car-dominated streets, glass towers, and departure from the hillside did not understand the wisdom of their predecessors.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-re0jYaUvd99katA2GF47ryP1FY817MLF0hUnahy4SIUO_ZpZdHAAoCBMQS8BGdi2q9oBU60p8tOA0P3LTff1QsSdrrYJ0uuLsRmmhvZE92xwVotESGxZ_TaQkj8L0a6y0xELjV2tDvo/s320/P1050307.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626369088363930610" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></span></p> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmfd0UKdIm9Oye5sIJwZXkNX1kqEwhOpfw9lKldc7W-4eYFkjOx-Dter2SOdTEaYMInONvBDETnzzStlbXmFGQaFwzjzzdvQB8W8H4_4dbORQMgKP69jG4GB01ZG41WWBHIg-WLf7BddU/s1600/P1050316.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmfd0UKdIm9Oye5sIJwZXkNX1kqEwhOpfw9lKldc7W-4eYFkjOx-Dter2SOdTEaYMInONvBDETnzzStlbXmFGQaFwzjzzdvQB8W8H4_4dbORQMgKP69jG4GB01ZG41WWBHIg-WLf7BddU/s320/P1050316.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626369862492001154" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-KiZZdaFxqYStsKwXD2ehStx5tF1pmU8Gd6H4KFwZws25yHqWtVS-jLsczEe8EcG77fJpZJQmvxCeJlwVZM1SLGTWvrds_s39AqhgBc2xza38aSyy-gebbX7Oua4u-5qExkgPpBNi368/s1600/P1050317.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-KiZZdaFxqYStsKwXD2ehStx5tF1pmU8Gd6H4KFwZws25yHqWtVS-jLsczEe8EcG77fJpZJQmvxCeJlwVZM1SLGTWvrds_s39AqhgBc2xza38aSyy-gebbX7Oua4u-5qExkgPpBNi368/s320/P1050317.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626369852095935394" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBkXqU0Sz5Z1SQ_Ylyc_5EkyIrfJkZ5sgKh262_25b-yurBK9QVnxUcwYxOVcvM_UYaL2apQ71esoKQwusaYIKphrPehoeXQwRWfy9mOiFF5-adfrVbi4a4ouq0oF98yG6NeT8PxGl7hc/s1600/P1050330.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBkXqU0Sz5Z1SQ_Ylyc_5EkyIrfJkZ5sgKh262_25b-yurBK9QVnxUcwYxOVcvM_UYaL2apQ71esoKQwusaYIKphrPehoeXQwRWfy9mOiFF5-adfrVbi4a4ouq0oF98yG6NeT8PxGl7hc/s320/P1050330.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626369841933686562" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><p class="MsoNormal">As I descended, I was met by the tower caretaker, a kindly man who spoke only a word or two of English. Perhaps excited because I was a foreign tourist and perhaps because I was the first customer of the day, he asked eagerly to take pictures of me with my camera. Happy to oblige and grab a few memories of my own, I let him take my photo. The experience became the quintessential Indian photo-shoot that I had seen so many Indian pairs exhibit at famous sights in my time there. It involves many pictures being taken from strange angles, and always a shot of the subject posing as though he is holding or somehow bracing the structure behind. What is fun for me about watching these events (or taking part) is that you see the hunger for technology and creativity in the society. Cameras and even more so camera phones have allowed an easy form of expression and bonding to develop in the culture. Taking and sharing photos is an important activity—almost a ritual—to share experiences with family and friends. It contains a creativity and individualism that could easily be lost in the humdrum of middle or low class Indian life.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjujJ2FSzf9OFPpkka99rewWyP46o2c9AT7MKOeaF0vxezGiKGGyCGnX1Xxg4DuszJwBq3y4QO5FVKQaCtkW5fYI1e6F_GpTfWCVZYDqZuZF-SM-Ka2cQ7aWjyoT0VSvVx0HQzJ0cjPCcI/s1600/P1050333.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjujJ2FSzf9OFPpkka99rewWyP46o2c9AT7MKOeaF0vxezGiKGGyCGnX1Xxg4DuszJwBq3y4QO5FVKQaCtkW5fYI1e6F_GpTfWCVZYDqZuZF-SM-Ka2cQ7aWjyoT0VSvVx0HQzJ0cjPCcI/s320/P1050333.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626369836544535698" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHzozDykyLdO3tmBSwsuV0sfpLOaIsC2mv0rJkIYumthY0TrHUg0JL26aB2oIL0C2jEOVq9YopV2yVvOJC941umuvMw2e8Jnkdu7LzEofvPTXXh7cgXwizge-P6JwMubFWWT5wj12mIo4/s1600/P1050334.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHzozDykyLdO3tmBSwsuV0sfpLOaIsC2mv0rJkIYumthY0TrHUg0JL26aB2oIL0C2jEOVq9YopV2yVvOJC941umuvMw2e8Jnkdu7LzEofvPTXXh7cgXwizge-P6JwMubFWWT5wj12mIo4/s320/P1050334.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626369827922315442" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal">From the tower, I was off again, this time to the City Palace, a sprawling complex for the ruler and his family in the heart of Jaipur. It is a fascinating place where you can still see the splendors of Rajasthani royalty laid out in a city as they often are in forts. As with all such palaces, the rooms were exquisite (especially the halls of public and private audience), but the highlights were two areas which have been converted into showcases of polo and fashion for one and local craftsmanship for another. Here I caught glimpses of life of the royalty through their dress and preparation for audiences, marriages, and daily life as well as through the love of polo that exists in Jaipur. The dress habits of the royal women were reminiscent of what I saw in the Middle East for wealthy and perhaps are a result of similar desert resources and cultural crossovers courtesy of the Mughal invasion.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRK8PPeQDfVrih_Ji4gUz4dsRwfGyXD086c_judS6Xy_FqgMR_iSYr3EKq1ByfZyLPjUXf9JudiGnETURBneE7KgvIZD9PuDS-vDykr_9ElY-FnmmzIaztv2bkuEK7CUYOL-t-P44nTiI/s1600/P1050385.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRK8PPeQDfVrih_Ji4gUz4dsRwfGyXD086c_judS6Xy_FqgMR_iSYr3EKq1ByfZyLPjUXf9JudiGnETURBneE7KgvIZD9PuDS-vDykr_9ElY-FnmmzIaztv2bkuEK7CUYOL-t-P44nTiI/s320/P1050385.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626370316953523746" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilera_iaJIkIA-_3U-JEJsvGZ4wdVTkNZaOP4TxxaAdSClj1pvUz_Wk2o36SjYmMDkwyk450JAo9yQr031PqySftod7GKzF3ooU5VfTe-PuD-IdtVe1sZQ40Pv1S_WuzdoQ1qz-EBOTZc/s1600/P1050395.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilera_iaJIkIA-_3U-JEJsvGZ4wdVTkNZaOP4TxxaAdSClj1pvUz_Wk2o36SjYmMDkwyk450JAo9yQr031PqySftod7GKzF3ooU5VfTe-PuD-IdtVe1sZQ40Pv1S_WuzdoQ1qz-EBOTZc/s320/P1050395.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626370308407347938" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFjMAiEt1iOSmcEV-tXHxxxICU-leyFNC7Aqf9Y-lW-Ezo5cvG70xoxUIRF_Ar1BC9AEhh0ZJxBLTNUk9byDNDv-JbsEHXj-DqlDNjlIeiu2yjqBHKXWM98-tKNhRaTv4123bzg6AoiTk/s1600/P1050416.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFjMAiEt1iOSmcEV-tXHxxxICU-leyFNC7Aqf9Y-lW-Ezo5cvG70xoxUIRF_Ar1BC9AEhh0ZJxBLTNUk9byDNDv-JbsEHXj-DqlDNjlIeiu2yjqBHKXWM98-tKNhRaTv4123bzg6AoiTk/s320/P1050416.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626370304528405602" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPSxUXM3TgRDMfXQ57H3uG2LeX1ETNkKPP5tW1kS91WS478CoBjC6y-xhQct8KFtd4i-iN1o-npoiNR84I21Bt9q3XNlZJNG3VxUexEnrxgNohDEqeOpnMmAEMWPzmojjug3Pr-s-B3jo/s1600/P1050425.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPSxUXM3TgRDMfXQ57H3uG2LeX1ETNkKPP5tW1kS91WS478CoBjC6y-xhQct8KFtd4i-iN1o-npoiNR84I21Bt9q3XNlZJNG3VxUexEnrxgNohDEqeOpnMmAEMWPzmojjug3Pr-s-B3jo/s320/P1050425.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626370297709905890" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0BvbGLKuV5mCptvKEWJvB9gr6N4ITWHV-Z4VQj5pcNpoMj4-F9ni_BtNGZLThAGBlAmrmcxw5w_3meI7Al7mXtwx0WKsw2ByGmLCJwiVNGBZM-WbAOQjYewVdA7X_eA4zyZdtDT1seWM/s1600/P1050428.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0BvbGLKuV5mCptvKEWJvB9gr6N4ITWHV-Z4VQj5pcNpoMj4-F9ni_BtNGZLThAGBlAmrmcxw5w_3meI7Al7mXtwx0WKsw2ByGmLCJwiVNGBZM-WbAOQjYewVdA7X_eA4zyZdtDT1seWM/s320/P1050428.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626370293765625522" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal">The rest of the palace was interesting but not that unique compared to some of the other palaces I had visited. However what was really cool to me was what lay next door—the Royal Observatory. Now many of my close friends know that before I ended up doing a degree in engineering I wanted to go instead into astronomy. In fact, since I was little I have been fascinated by the stars and the universe. So it was with great interest that I entered the Royal Observatory and even splurged the few dollars extra for my own guide to explain to me the instruments that rulers used to observe the heavens and make astrological measurements. There are several of these observatories throughout India, but this is supposedly one of the best preserved (certainly the one in Delhi is not at all as beautiful or extensive). As I wandered around being explained the functions of different sundials and instruments for measuring the positions of the constellations, I was amazed by the level of sophistication of some of the measurements several hundred years ago. Even though I had just come from the Middle East where Arabic knowledge had led to the development of navigation and star charts, to see the instruments in India was far more impressive. I learned about how astrologers used the tools to determine the fortunes and fates of young children. I even glimpsed my own astrological clock (the one for Cancer, the Crab). Overall, the visit was fantastic and something I highly recommend to anyone spending time in Jaipur.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPLZyb0SM4Ok1NFzxn09A8l-tv-T6Y3WybZctkev8knrVf6bS30fNKhbKR98vOLfLLL1JoRzoeVVXVv7XBwtYHD-KDCA8FeTYWreIJyfnJQ3UdiZ5_xqK7VYXwYGpGX3z384f1BysmPXg/s1600/P1050341.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPLZyb0SM4Ok1NFzxn09A8l-tv-T6Y3WybZctkev8knrVf6bS30fNKhbKR98vOLfLLL1JoRzoeVVXVv7XBwtYHD-KDCA8FeTYWreIJyfnJQ3UdiZ5_xqK7VYXwYGpGX3z384f1BysmPXg/s320/P1050341.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626370757693232274" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwFrIrbqNTGUzvOnj7fbeOdxaVwKt2AAAD-K4tVTLia9F0FYwM5_zrz0jLVL3cHzGvUd7mV9uqtfMm9MHil1fk1hUhCy0hAl8ssga7HzaFI7B7g1Ys_1tHU3QyKtPmWFEtoGuTYoHEiok/s1600/P1050345.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwFrIrbqNTGUzvOnj7fbeOdxaVwKt2AAAD-K4tVTLia9F0FYwM5_zrz0jLVL3cHzGvUd7mV9uqtfMm9MHil1fk1hUhCy0hAl8ssga7HzaFI7B7g1Ys_1tHU3QyKtPmWFEtoGuTYoHEiok/s320/P1050345.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626370749198401090" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqY4ANo6AnbQD32_1P3vf1Dw0Ax3wDz2iYuFNENg5glV9OP5sR1Ej9TzhcxbUv22zWCw6YDO7wOWSuOrxk7_K0DpJf2znN8_DTgdkJwnZcsRnpQGWSnRwXcW94Mduhmd27_34jMo3yz-I/s1600/P1050353.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqY4ANo6AnbQD32_1P3vf1Dw0Ax3wDz2iYuFNENg5glV9OP5sR1Ej9TzhcxbUv22zWCw6YDO7wOWSuOrxk7_K0DpJf2znN8_DTgdkJwnZcsRnpQGWSnRwXcW94Mduhmd27_34jMo3yz-I/s320/P1050353.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626370734936018434" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia1f6e0drA4D4mvQEeRCibTELe8xGrqYldQDgUKFsqYeZxrrsVFJIg9RVMVfm-OTXXwapOH1b09T7Xk4OD_nWq8Jul2Vnd07ZtCGs2cytXvjD_n9-ye7hXKVzNOXIPYWfPObGzvuU5_yY/s1600/P1050355.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia1f6e0drA4D4mvQEeRCibTELe8xGrqYldQDgUKFsqYeZxrrsVFJIg9RVMVfm-OTXXwapOH1b09T7Xk4OD_nWq8Jul2Vnd07ZtCGs2cytXvjD_n9-ye7hXKVzNOXIPYWfPObGzvuU5_yY/s320/P1050355.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626370723455115426" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal">After spending time at the City Palace and Royal Observatory, I headed back to Hawa Mahal to explore the realm of the women. Entering from a side alley beyond the complex, I was quickly in the midst of a grand courtyard adorned with Hindu deities and overlooked by multiple balconies. Here the women could celebrate holidays, stroll, and spend time outdoors dressed however they wished without fear of exposure to outside men. Learning about these little cultural traditions was interesting as was seeing the innovations in the building that were developed to use every last drop of water and cooling in the hot basin of Jaipur. As with other Rajasthani palaces, basins of water were used for natural cooling, towels with perfume were occasionally hung on rings, and natural air flows were key. Yet another interesting aspect of the palace here were the dual passageways leading among various floors. Steps were for most users, but ramps were also present so that the queen could be carried in her litter down and up easily. The ramps made it easier for this to take place. As I ascended the edifice, I saw more of the private apartments of the women, all of whom lived here in relative harmony. From above you could steal glimpses onto the courtyard below just in case any gossip was being shared that you didn’t want to miss. However at the top of the building were the most magnificent views. Here you could peer out through the principal façade onto the bustling city street below and watch traders, shoppers, and passersby from a safe and screened perch. The elegant jalli screens protected the women from being seen, allowing them to wear what they liked while atop this perch.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6kV6aEVJjZLPYHTIgSxyzj224piqTPkOr1TlTOTuyQJ0hCS4J26gVoGROxvzggLrHp6TVtHU6Wm9gzUOECG9j6_zUFGA3wcCClKKXE3ZDBuvhy2safJtNsKwrNsz0zj477rpafGLeg7A/s320/P1050452.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626370708964878482" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></span></p><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEb_fyjO1d6LQJtv2Z5qbYPTddRDSHf9-0a0he0t5C7Y3tYH0IICP6JOoeKkze72nSZLc1e85rTauCfurE5NqKph_ls4O2dqN2inxSgyfcCz2ES3i_xH6lijf24LOr8o5KZVOU72PGdSM/s1600/P1050464.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEb_fyjO1d6LQJtv2Z5qbYPTddRDSHf9-0a0he0t5C7Y3tYH0IICP6JOoeKkze72nSZLc1e85rTauCfurE5NqKph_ls4O2dqN2inxSgyfcCz2ES3i_xH6lijf24LOr8o5KZVOU72PGdSM/s320/P1050464.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626371350805429634" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMs6D_jmUXdf8LyL11gwcBmJmadzx85hUeHu6e7_rEWMKFonux3PcsGU793KcM7VGvXo8JyPTKMC7SZbNtHPXGODzQ8ADaxDSFuxSw1UV33UHHNgiBHi9WTDGVPWHzCeN8nCqgG2avrwo/s1600/P1050478.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMs6D_jmUXdf8LyL11gwcBmJmadzx85hUeHu6e7_rEWMKFonux3PcsGU793KcM7VGvXo8JyPTKMC7SZbNtHPXGODzQ8ADaxDSFuxSw1UV33UHHNgiBHi9WTDGVPWHzCeN8nCqgG2avrwo/s320/P1050478.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626371347627866018" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHF7_gLJZ6i5mfiX2TSfR-at4dmcycrESyNXrtW-dk3mg7fJRHRDE5dE_JifKu9Hw5lxs6iLfI7QXlO2NpmygGbS2A67TjTn6_Ls9xgpA55cIxwNlJ7deFwvo8B6NYmHxyvzt2DZ-yVjE/s1600/P1050482.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHF7_gLJZ6i5mfiX2TSfR-at4dmcycrESyNXrtW-dk3mg7fJRHRDE5dE_JifKu9Hw5lxs6iLfI7QXlO2NpmygGbS2A67TjTn6_Ls9xgpA55cIxwNlJ7deFwvo8B6NYmHxyvzt2DZ-yVjE/s320/P1050482.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626371346111171218" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6aXCxcFCh1tiHq_zFl8cdNrOC7ee7bDOzPp7KB15j2qao0SNkh5PpnPfKnDDJlyblhBHN4hbeYvmS7ChAqGGfntf_R_ccly_6xginA1lhpAofyv4_RscxFPTTIgAHsj3oa69zLviAdbM/s1600/P1050490.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6aXCxcFCh1tiHq_zFl8cdNrOC7ee7bDOzPp7KB15j2qao0SNkh5PpnPfKnDDJlyblhBHN4hbeYvmS7ChAqGGfntf_R_ccly_6xginA1lhpAofyv4_RscxFPTTIgAHsj3oa69zLviAdbM/s320/P1050490.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626371336118297282" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></div> <p class="MsoNormal">After lingering at the top for a while and admiring the views, I left behind Hawa Mahal in search of sustenance and an adventure or two. My favorite drink in India (and I think most travelers will say this) is a lassi—a cream based Rajasthani delicacy. Many places serve them up well, but apparently in Jaipur there is one place that serves up some of the best. Wandering through the old city streets past bazaar stalls selling anything and everything, I finally emerged from the old city walls and into the newer part of Jaipur. In this world dominated by cars and overflowing with glass stores selling Western goods, I finally found my destination.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlsTkwUhC2aTYfSQWqPrp8YJlYG6L3In95NwM2v96TY14GnpGYZ7fi2NIwOa2lu72ZWsKM1dwnvRXwnGzTj13h382-x8lJIrm3RCl4c4QT_Lbzq1X-kzbDzCoFR9ZyUF83N0kowHPeau0/s320/P1050521.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626371330869673778" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">As I sipped down the cold drink, I thought a bit about what I had just walked through. I had come from the older part of the city which was networked well and shaded by the narrow streets and yet allowed for easy maneuvering to different locations and sites, and was perfect for pedestrians, carts, and rickshaws into a world dominated by cars where I could not walk except in the blazing sun past glaring buildings that intensified the heat. It was a stark contrast that shows just how much of the traditional patterns of building have been changed here. I’ll leave you to think on your own about where this is a good or a bad thing—on the one hand you have a more international city on the outside but on the other you have a poorer climate for pedestrians, but my position is that the original structure and planning is much better, especially environmentally. Cities are not supposed to be uniform—location and history should play a role in design.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">After my lassi, I set out on my second adventure—climbing to the Tiger Fort. I dove back into the narrow streets of Jaipur and steered for the biggest hill in sight. Slowly my path went higher and higher until soon I was winding my way above the spider web of paths below. On the way I only passed a few people moving up and down along with me—clearly this was not the most popular tourist attraction in town to which I was heading. After a good half hour or so, I finally reached the summit. Panting and dripping sweat from the heat of the day, I staggered on to the fort’s entrance. In contrast to the forts I had visited in Jaisalmer and Jodhpur, this one was run-down and abandoned—clearly it had not been kept up for years. Windows were broken, plaster falling, and no furnishings remained in the palace. Due to a lack of historical information in English, I am not able to say why this is true, but what I can say is that it was a bit eerie and fun to wander the old place. With each new room you could guess a bit about what it was used for based on the design, the painting that remained, and the orientation. The kitchen was easy, the rest not so much. However the best thing about it was the view over Jaipur. Many of the windows commanded sweeping, exquisite views over the city from which you could see the old area and the new meshed together roughly at the city walls. As I sat, the wind whistled through the building, providing a pleasant temperature and atmosphere. This combined with the absence of India’s usual noise and smells made for a peaceful place to relax and watch the sun sink lower toward the horizon.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlVat_Nl97zxW7v9fACJk0pXPfeMkHHL5qQnKBkQtdIra1CMl0D1aE7kXUUrtG_OaPRkV561PncWscpQMIbo5XtpLn4A7yVVdlPMqTQk7su0dIyrnCDMwMsILCLP9J9yOTGi0iomeo00k/s1600/P1050548.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlVat_Nl97zxW7v9fACJk0pXPfeMkHHL5qQnKBkQtdIra1CMl0D1aE7kXUUrtG_OaPRkV561PncWscpQMIbo5XtpLn4A7yVVdlPMqTQk7su0dIyrnCDMwMsILCLP9J9yOTGi0iomeo00k/s320/P1050548.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626372715015630226" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyfPBuyZDeEHvh6P9t8TTAiS1KZWU5fHEDdjoM5hNEyreSceRdiZxFelpR1xjY-ZW-OYeSXMdnW2_8MGNlbIBDxy1-CPIR8WClhMmK-pYfz5f4DcgvWlomaZM3amkA9gGxOgj4QUd_-4Q/s1600/P1050557.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyfPBuyZDeEHvh6P9t8TTAiS1KZWU5fHEDdjoM5hNEyreSceRdiZxFelpR1xjY-ZW-OYeSXMdnW2_8MGNlbIBDxy1-CPIR8WClhMmK-pYfz5f4DcgvWlomaZM3amkA9gGxOgj4QUd_-4Q/s320/P1050557.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626372705466644642" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA8VAqMYDxYPaue0YSP6cjl6eFro4UJFARDsCi2wnAO0xtC-qCdR369CSVDMHo4_vSfw8I5uEQjjkDoZVW_wk89bkZSVK2W8uYe0OBKZr3WOZoyletfQCfs8_4Zk20RP2wtCwwbBKmgrQ/s1600/P1050578.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA8VAqMYDxYPaue0YSP6cjl6eFro4UJFARDsCi2wnAO0xtC-qCdR369CSVDMHo4_vSfw8I5uEQjjkDoZVW_wk89bkZSVK2W8uYe0OBKZr3WOZoyletfQCfs8_4Zk20RP2wtCwwbBKmgrQ/s320/P1050578.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626372697733142626" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFIGcSJ9x9DUp6L25x8zfL64CFwa52Fn5_aueylZkZeMJc-5MU4sVAriztHrKAeNljqOmTvqn7HE6e72fAdsUGkMILJeiE_AubEI53GZcExQi_WLH0fa-TyyDLeP3xzgl3KQ7YYFHt7qc/s1600/P1050579.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFIGcSJ9x9DUp6L25x8zfL64CFwa52Fn5_aueylZkZeMJc-5MU4sVAriztHrKAeNljqOmTvqn7HE6e72fAdsUGkMILJeiE_AubEI53GZcExQi_WLH0fa-TyyDLeP3xzgl3KQ7YYFHt7qc/s320/P1050579.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626372691178471650" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijPz1JdA8rLjMOFQt6V2GdmjnbaQ29hXc-YReMr-HFqcbzsWv4geAZmwuebwzBkQlR6TdJ6DXsS8-BlZebwu4MLq4RKJQ5OQuq_AJf4Qe8bNnoW5Wde8chRimS7vKkzI18dMZXKde3Nkg/s1600/P1050603.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijPz1JdA8rLjMOFQt6V2GdmjnbaQ29hXc-YReMr-HFqcbzsWv4geAZmwuebwzBkQlR6TdJ6DXsS8-BlZebwu4MLq4RKJQ5OQuq_AJf4Qe8bNnoW5Wde8chRimS7vKkzI18dMZXKde3Nkg/s320/P1050603.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626372686313617154" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal">As the sun dropped to the point where I knew I must leave so as to make it back to the city before dark, I recalled myself from my relaxation and hiked back down the same windy trail. Though much easier than on the way up, the unrelenting heat of the day (and this was not yet summer) left me again sweating when I hit the bottom. I navigated as quickly as possible back to my hotel for a brief shower before heading out for dinner at a very interesting place. For those located in Southern California (or familiar with it), you may appreciate when I say that my dinner location was much like the “Medieval Times” of India. The restaurant and entertainment complex called Chawki Dhani was a cheesy but fun recreation of an old Indian village. Here you could ride elephants and camels, watch fire jugglers and dancers, and even attend a magic show. Yet the highlight of it all was the meal. Two options were available to you—the food of the commoners (cheap and consequently what most visitors went for) or the Royal Rajasthani Thali—the all-you-can-eat feast of kings. Unknowingly, I opted for the latter but it was well worth it. An array of local dishes from starters to dessert was laid before me and the supply of roti, rice, vegetables, and potatoes was endless. I sampled at least 9 dishes as well as buttermilk and tea (the former of which I did not really enjoy) and capped it all with sweets in the form of ice cream and sugary, glazed fried dough. It was absolutely delicious.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSbnT0gGELc_S4s-SHLDK7-f2utz_FMPqFKjP0T8Fp2CCkOb_Ns2PM1FnwjwyhUB-VWxVCdX_9bUGDSOnrs5QIOzvWkVoTzy_-2DJllaswUQI7zl2qszG8Uhqz4eysR-TQAI0Ptky6Dr0/s1600/P1050627.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSbnT0gGELc_S4s-SHLDK7-f2utz_FMPqFKjP0T8Fp2CCkOb_Ns2PM1FnwjwyhUB-VWxVCdX_9bUGDSOnrs5QIOzvWkVoTzy_-2DJllaswUQI7zl2qszG8Uhqz4eysR-TQAI0Ptky6Dr0/s320/P1050627.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626373280168974050" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC9LOV7puVxPh1A6YS7eKEFsXXixJC7Qi13sJZPe_bta2hnAyOs-W9cBhC1g79wMQoA5r1n0P8LR9b7BZCdUvvgT84VHsRyx1OoClBFOMN3q3mUo3ksUdHQMVPQ2snH-FHiucDaUON9cg/s1600/P1050629.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC9LOV7puVxPh1A6YS7eKEFsXXixJC7Qi13sJZPe_bta2hnAyOs-W9cBhC1g79wMQoA5r1n0P8LR9b7BZCdUvvgT84VHsRyx1OoClBFOMN3q3mUo3ksUdHQMVPQ2snH-FHiucDaUON9cg/s320/P1050629.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626373275774565106" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal">After dinner, it was off to enjoy the festivities. Though not wanting to splurge on the elephant or camel rides, I did sit to enjoy shows of magic, a child balancing spinning plates on his face, and puppets. I even wandered over to the tents where women and men danced and both watched and took part myself. I think it surprised all of the people there when I joined in with the dancing simply because I was one of a only a handful of non-Indians present, but I was easily accepted and eagerly welcomed into the group. It was a lot of fun, but after a few songs of constant dancing, I was exhausted. Time then to sit back, enjoy the night, and watch as others did the hard work of dancing with pots on their heads, spinning sensually, and even juggling potentially lethal objects.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZWDqpOUAidDxYiG2zJm7CPrzubjHB5ZjvymBfQuH4mLO4H_xJ3RAuTDrWCgzfQ9efVDRU2NKi1vkCWykGdBmD-UGMW_WNlHaAuZstPkMtMbjuAM6Uif8QCQQijYeB0YsYCjFR-PISU1U/s1600/P1050624.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZWDqpOUAidDxYiG2zJm7CPrzubjHB5ZjvymBfQuH4mLO4H_xJ3RAuTDrWCgzfQ9efVDRU2NKi1vkCWykGdBmD-UGMW_WNlHaAuZstPkMtMbjuAM6Uif8QCQQijYeB0YsYCjFR-PISU1U/s320/P1050624.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626373267922209202" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3VFsZkJarUl63H0jfGADGbyK5LR14YWP5t7-BPSS2zirpLVVaxU58XSQZvUtBLn8ZCy4v5hKuhGbiNbf2i5PVuWI8nEQ3uXkSfeQOCZutheAQImj9YZTmYZdgo58RqjblfoIq9x6CnGM/s1600/P1050635.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3VFsZkJarUl63H0jfGADGbyK5LR14YWP5t7-BPSS2zirpLVVaxU58XSQZvUtBLn8ZCy4v5hKuhGbiNbf2i5PVuWI8nEQ3uXkSfeQOCZutheAQImj9YZTmYZdgo58RqjblfoIq9x6CnGM/s320/P1050635.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626373264374543442" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsGcBhX-N6D3cMCd7m14IfVgv6_kuaNpeNUnP2TjcTzXxAcq530ygdoUPBfRVRWRJSa2bLpXMBfcLsGGO_17E4sbg_nCI8m7m6vOSbi3M-aWnBk50fwREZsExfA8jZW0yUT-8wjy_PAZU/s1600/P1050636.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsGcBhX-N6D3cMCd7m14IfVgv6_kuaNpeNUnP2TjcTzXxAcq530ygdoUPBfRVRWRJSa2bLpXMBfcLsGGO_17E4sbg_nCI8m7m6vOSbi3M-aWnBk50fwREZsExfA8jZW0yUT-8wjy_PAZU/s320/P1050636.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626373254276319906" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Though I could easily have stayed late into the night at Chawki Dhani, knowing I had an early morning ahead and the fatigue of the previous night’s bus ride drew me back to Jaipur and my hotel by midnight. The next morning, after checking out at my obscenely early required time, I hopped a bus and was headed out to the jewel of Jaipur, the Amber Fort. After a ride of about half an hour past a beautiful lake and other old areas, I finally alighted at the foot of a gleaming masterpiece of Rajasthani architecture perched above a picturesque lake. The morning light illuminated the building just perfectly, allowing the amber sandstone to glow in the diffuse rays. Mesmerized, I stood for a while simply staring at the beautiful image before me.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwyrS6g-AsYeqPrZ-nvBdsX9OoSSyXJdkldINDddJnULxeDor8SrzR_gZHmo_3CN4MLlDRh3GQytR6raJXTqekh8IaWEbs4nWU97ChwgH12USMT7PC_3GrIQZ_a7UpslpceR1GSCGRlWY/s320/P1050666.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626373939323824354" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">However it was not long before I tore myself away and headed into the line to ride an elephant to the top of the hill. That’s right, I finally got to ride an elephant. I don’t know whether it was worth the money to ride on the animals which were probably not treated as well as they could be in a caravan that plodded up what would otherwise be a 15 minute walk, but it did afford a fun time and a story that I can tell later. On the way, we also got a glimpse of some of the local laidback langurs—pretty cool experience overall.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy1vTaVnk7_NtfO4n-GgUeWhR9s9Cd0nXt_-NMbZVNl_x7ruz8dRlF7YuJ2m-SOZSgsaRhsw6nTAG5doFIjLmEfn7C5wn1AQdTZPG0JW5lHo96eFlFWlE7QtrExZI5FbA14zs9plkCOdI/s1600/P1050683.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy1vTaVnk7_NtfO4n-GgUeWhR9s9Cd0nXt_-NMbZVNl_x7ruz8dRlF7YuJ2m-SOZSgsaRhsw6nTAG5doFIjLmEfn7C5wn1AQdTZPG0JW5lHo96eFlFWlE7QtrExZI5FbA14zs9plkCOdI/s320/P1050683.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626373930324959698" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr2gpcYUtYlCDWlUKgtRgos2OgybVt7j2yYjU-ZRqTRMqeok5glDufexgNFr6Z8wVrqXFkPHxE05NEiYFG4BY-E7oK-JsEOzJbikO-N1RD1png-MXDmbvFpyQyCvCkHyi80SuFfCRsbJM/s1600/P1050687.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr2gpcYUtYlCDWlUKgtRgos2OgybVt7j2yYjU-ZRqTRMqeok5glDufexgNFr6Z8wVrqXFkPHxE05NEiYFG4BY-E7oK-JsEOzJbikO-N1RD1png-MXDmbvFpyQyCvCkHyi80SuFfCRsbJM/s320/P1050687.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626373919474102818" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxRQ-_nY3EJ10TJO349WXr4rfdcyq6MzNdE9LlKv-IOqR89579q0y-2Llt4VkO8sZABko4ikkR-Wi93_7823KJGCfFSu59xUl19BaBf-gMkQg6jqDSgTs9hlH3qsXVX_TZ6OaVgXO10vc/s1600/P1050690.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxRQ-_nY3EJ10TJO349WXr4rfdcyq6MzNdE9LlKv-IOqR89579q0y-2Llt4VkO8sZABko4ikkR-Wi93_7823KJGCfFSu59xUl19BaBf-gMkQg6jqDSgTs9hlH3qsXVX_TZ6OaVgXO10vc/s320/P1050690.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626373920666094562" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal">The only annoying part of it (and I tell this partly to warn other travelers who may take this ride) was the driver. When you take the ride, you are given a slip that you must forfeit to the elephant driver and pay the required fee. When you board, you walk right past a big sign that says not to tip the drivers. Yet if you hand over money and expect change, the elephant handlers play the same old trick as rickshaw drivers—suddenly there is no change. Call them on that one (as I did) and then they plead that it is there tip. Explain that the sign said not to tip them, and suddenly you are at the limit of their capability for understanding English. Not until I took the money back from the driver and told him he would not get paid until he got change did he miraculously then produce the required 100 Rs. I required. You may wonder why I would be so strict over 100 Rs. (about US $2.20), but for me it was not so much the money as the fact that such a blatant disregard for a policy the driver must know bothered me. There is so much corruption at all levels of government and society in the nation that I felt as though this was one more way of coercing a bonus when undeserved and I didn’t like it. Perhaps I should have been the generous American tourist and given a tip, but if it is not the policy and not the local custom (which from the nature of bartering it is clear it is not), then I felt I should not and it bothered me that he was trying to, from my point of view, take advantage of me to make a tip because I was not a local.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Another interesting aspect of the trip was that about halfway up, several photographers jumped up on the wall to take a picture of me. Urging me to remember their face and meet them at the exit, the snapped a couple of shots. Remember that—I will come back to it later.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Finally I was at the top of the hill and dismounted my elephant. A quick audio guide purchase later, and I was off exploring the interior of this fort. Rather than talk at length about every room and detail (especially since many are similar to <a href="http://robswatsonadventure.blogspot.com/2011/04/why-dont-we-build-them-that-way-anymore.html">the other palaces I visited in Jaisalmer and Jodhpur</a>), I will instead only highlight the things that I really enjoyed. The first was the hall of public audience immediately when you enter the palace. Here, massive columns elegantly decorated with Muslim and Hindu images graced a huge hallway. The area was said to be so beautiful that the Shah in Delhi was jealous and intended to destroy it. Only through the quick-thinking of the Maharajah to hide it was it saved (don’t ask me how he hid such a large, beautiful building, but he did).</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibyCp961QBL9cKiH9Sk-qMeH4B8N_vqH9d4eHBhT5r4qNxonZMeDJB6nzteNVWsrrrfATSNgrUi4-yPCiUtM_XTAT6YgnTMmngFch6ErJvarnxwDgT5OThbQrsr8bdqc9Xa9nntlWPHMo/s1600/P1050723.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibyCp961QBL9cKiH9Sk-qMeH4B8N_vqH9d4eHBhT5r4qNxonZMeDJB6nzteNVWsrrrfATSNgrUi4-yPCiUtM_XTAT6YgnTMmngFch6ErJvarnxwDgT5OThbQrsr8bdqc9Xa9nntlWPHMo/s320/P1050723.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626374875375185938" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL8dPmIoshBBeeCSyrCPlKjC423FOrt8PWfNkhxcXKQgYxdFICkfae7j8ShNDt79GBu82ant5cJAyTVFpqmdMrFu64K8ympDgbdtoFBdFXrX8udj_FjpAcufv6KkaXKPETc0REl95GPCo/s1600/P1050720.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL8dPmIoshBBeeCSyrCPlKjC423FOrt8PWfNkhxcXKQgYxdFICkfae7j8ShNDt79GBu82ant5cJAyTVFpqmdMrFu64K8ympDgbdtoFBdFXrX8udj_FjpAcufv6KkaXKPETc0REl95GPCo/s320/P1050720.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626374864175978402" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal">The second thing I really enjoyed was the view up the hill to the third fort of Jaipur which I did not visit. This spectacular view of the hills and the town of Amer nestled beneath the Amber fort was beautiful and certainly worth lingering atop the castle walls.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMtJ5Wx-qEnyZsg0wsWJG8R-Y7XYZ2mkuSJ9zaYtzUgqfQAk-iwWDeqWhcDOPRIHWGpMRVH8IVYQ9IKGOE5K4AtAF7Na24CopV5Wv98BHIuulmAWgB48-GNv35oAYZzB45Iq07oF-hQsM/s1600/P1050774.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMtJ5Wx-qEnyZsg0wsWJG8R-Y7XYZ2mkuSJ9zaYtzUgqfQAk-iwWDeqWhcDOPRIHWGpMRVH8IVYQ9IKGOE5K4AtAF7Na24CopV5Wv98BHIuulmAWgB48-GNv35oAYZzB45Iq07oF-hQsM/s320/P1050774.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626374853728907010" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8TemOb4tbYm5Idact9EypN_Grrxrxb-nDFDfu4wR7-4XQH-99bF-T7NtPG_-5LPUQMbdJGcCYLp84EQ6-CD1WgAQpzd7h6FzQUejgxXiT6l00T_uBoNvlof_PE6NitrWQiboMM5do8ts/s1600/Panorama+11.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8TemOb4tbYm5Idact9EypN_Grrxrxb-nDFDfu4wR7-4XQH-99bF-T7NtPG_-5LPUQMbdJGcCYLp84EQ6-CD1WgAQpzd7h6FzQUejgxXiT6l00T_uBoNvlof_PE6NitrWQiboMM5do8ts/s320/Panorama+11.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626374848237073938" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 70px; " /></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Yet what most impressed me about the Amber Fort was the delicate hall of mirrors and the beautiful carpet-like courtyard in front of it. Plants and flowers delicately formed a sculptural foreground for this marble, colored glass, and mirrored edifice that served as one of the main living spaces of the former maharajahs. The beautiful white and glass reflecting the light set off the garden beautifully and provided a wonderful place for reflection. I have also always been mesmerized and calmed by the sound of flowing water, so the fountain in the center was simply exquisite in my opinion and completed the beautiful courtyard.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUc_hEgdwNtog8iwm5Kej6D0PsWYLh0LovOoMDJJg_z9TQ8LTol6y9-txKdLTTqZzCK9GAbNL3M2Mj0tdhTaz7YOR7IBPFkMW9ihlRJHcT0laOr2w0hBdUx1o-5W2c52h3q2qrSaWtjFs/s320/P1050764.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5626374845483897314" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Though I wanted to linger in that courtyard forever, it was time to move on as I had a train to catch to Mumbai that evening. I dragged myself away with a last glance and headed down the pedestrian route to the city. On the way, guess who showed up—that’s right, the photographer from the ride up (remember him?). He was eager to show me the three pictures he had snapped of me on the ride which he already had taken the liberty to print—clearly he knew I was in a buying mood, especially when he quoted me the “special price” of only 1500 Rs. for all three. That’s right, for only $11 per picture, or a total of $33, I could preserve the priceless memory of my elephant ride forever. Invoking the importance of the photos to my family, friends, mother, and father, he implored me to buy. With a laugh, however, I brushed him off and said I wouldn’t pay more than 50 Rs. for the three ($1). What he didn’t understand was that by printing the photos in advance, he lost all leverage over the price. He now had a commodity only worth something to me and therefore he would have to settle on my price (or something near to it). Otherwise, he would only lose money on the printing paper and the wasted time. Well, he laughed off my offer and said that was far too cheap. I simply shrugged and walked away. But he wasn’t deterred that easily—with each step of mine he kept pace and the price seemed to drop—1000, 700, 500, 400, 300. Getting closer, but still not there, so I continued walking. He finally gave up and though I did want the photos, I didn’t turn back. Before I knew it, he was back. With a few final words as I told him I had to leave for a bus, he and I finally settled on 80 for the three. Maybe not my price, but I was happy to give him a little extra. At least I felt like I won the negotiation.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">That was the last victory I was to have that day in anything it turned out. The rest of the day became one of those travel stories that you hate while it’s happening and then just have to look back and laugh. After getting lost on the pathway down the hill (no signposts on a diverging path is a bit of a challenge at times), I finally reached the village of Amer. I headed back to where I was dropped off by the bus only to be told that there was no bus stopping there by a “helpful” rickshaw driver who instead would take me back to town for 150 Rs. Thanking him, I headed up to the main village and found a bus stop sign conveniently collocated with a police officer. I asked him if that bus went to Jaipur and he confirmed that it did. I had enough time to wait up to 45 minutes for the bus and figured that would be enough. I confirmed with the officer the direction the bus went back to Jaipur and then sat down to wait. After two buses headed the other direction passed by, I saw two other tourists in the same plight. The three of us confirmed again the direction of bus we needed and asked when the next one would be. “Five minutes,” was the answer. Five minutes passed…then another five…then another five, and soon I began to sweat knowing that I was losing all buffer time I had built in to getting to the train station and I knew I only had enough money for the ride back to Jaipur. It meant I needed an ATM when I got back and quickly.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Finally the other tourists and I gave up on the bus and decided together to catch a rickshaw. We asked around but few drivers were to be found, and few wanted less than 200 to take us back. We kept asking until the price finally got down to 150 and decided we just wanted to go. Well we hopped in the backseat and were off…in the wrong direction. It turns out that rickshaws are not allowed to take the main road back to Jaipur and must instead take a network of pothole-ridden backroads that limit the maximum speed (and lengthen the time of the trip) significantly. So where I had been banking on a half hour trip back to the city, we now took nearly an hour. There went the rest of my buffer. I got back to the city with about 20 minutes before I had to make my train. I raced down the street looking for an ATM only to find that the one bank near my hotel had its ATM inside, behind the main door, and it was Sunday so they were not open.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">At this point, my best plan was to grab my luggage from the hotel, find a rickshaw driver, and have him stop by an ATM on the way to the station. With my bag, I went to the rickshaw park in the city and asked for a ride to the station. The sleepy collection of drivers roused from their afternoon siesta, sized me up, and demanded in excess of 100 Rs. Though in a hurry, I was not about to be hustled like that and argued down to 70 before accepting a driver (still about double what the ride was worth). We were off then and though he said he knew of a cash machine, he drove slowly, scanning each building for one. After passing about 3 and not stopping when I pointed them out, he pulled over and asked a man on the sidewalk where an ATM was. The man said there were none between our position and the train station. I told him that must be wrong and insisted the driver continue. Lo and behold, about two minutes later we came on another bank. This time, I forcefully commanded the driver to stop, ran in and got my money, and was back in a flash. The only problem was that my train was now supposedly departing. My only hope was to pray that, true to form, this train would be late like all my others had been. Finally we arrived at the station, I lugged on my heavy bag and dashed inside. To my horror, the train was gone. It had left on time—the only one in my whole time in India to be on time for anything.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Unsure what to do, I scanned the schedule on the wall. Nothing else was going to Mumbai that day and I needed to be there by the next day. I called my friend in Delhi to petition for his assistance, but the quickest way he could get me there was in two days time. That was no good, so I went back to helping myself. There was a tourist information office at the station, so I headed for that. I found the only clerk helping a group of European travelers figure out a ride to Agra. I politely waited until he finished only to have them then launch into a discussion about Thailand and then exchange Facebook information. Frustrated that the clerk was not helping me in my time of need, I sat silently and fumed. When finally they left and I was the only one left in the office needing help, I turned off my anger and very politely asked for help getting to Mumbai. He told me what I already knew—last train to Mumbai left a half hour before—and asked why I missed it. When I explained my predicament, he lectured me on why I should not have missed the train and then returned to Facebook. He told me I should get a refund on my ticket and then ask the ticket clerk what to do. Angry at being lectured and pawned off, I went with a police officer to get my refund, but when I asked the clerk what I should do, he responded (clearly annoyed) that his job was not information, the scheduling and booking office was closed since it was Sunday, and he could do nothing but issue refunds and sell tickets for trains that day. I headed back to the tourist office with this new information.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Once again I found the unhelpful clerk chatting with some friends and watching videos on Youtube and Facebook. He barely glanced up when I entered and was not prepared to help me in my plight at all. When finally he did, his advice was simple—take the train sitting on the platform to Agra and then figure it out from there. His logic was that there were more trains he knew of from Agra to Mumbai than from Jaipur to Mumbai. It didn’t matter to him when I pointed out that Agra was the wrong direction—he just shrugged, told me there were no other options, and went back to Facebook. Anytime I asked about other nearby cities, he just said no or that he didn’t know. I wanted to shove him off the computer and start searching myself, but that would have been extremely rude. Instead, I spied a train schedule book on his shelf and asked to see it. Maybe he figured it would shut me up and so he gave it to me. After first figuring out how to read the confusing tome, I began poring over schedules for all nearby cities. I finally found what I wanted—a train from Ajmer to Mumbai leaving in four hours. I whipped out my Lonely Planet guide—the bus to Ajmer would take 3 to 3 ½ hours. Perfect, I thought. I asked the clerk when the next bus to Ajmer was and how long it would take, and he said they left regularly and took about 4 hours. That meant that if I was on a bus now I might make it.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">I raced out of his office without thanking him and ran to a rickshaw driver. Frustrated at the high price he offered, I bargained a bit but finally relented to pay double the actual rate. Without any hurry, he took me to the bus station where I found the first seller with tickets to Ajmer, grabbed one, and boarded. Then I sat. 20 minutes later, the bus finally departed. Now I could only hope that the time to Ajmer was on the shorter 3 ½ hour side. If I made it in that time, I would have about 5 minutes to get to the station and board my train. Luckily, it was only 1 km from the bus station to the train station.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">I don’t know how, but I caught a little sleep on the bus despite my continual worry. I awoke in time to see the sun sink below the horizon, Ajmer appear in the distance as light, and my watch hand slowly tick toward the train’s departure time. Knowing I could no longer trust the tardiness of the train, I nervously watched the city grow agonizingly slowly on the horizon. When we finally arrived, I already had my backpack on and was among the first to dash out the door of the bus. I had only 4 minutes to make my train. I took the first rickshaw driver I saw without even getting a price first and left the negotiation for the ride. He wanted 100 Rs. for the 1 km ride (should be about 20) and we finally settled on 50. When I got out and handed him a 100, he claimed he didn’t have change. Rather than argue, I took the 15 Rs. he handed me, cursed him in the little bit of Hindi I knew for ripping me off, yelled a couple more obscenities in English for good measure, and then dashed to the ticket office.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">So far I was in luck—the train was still on the platform. I could only hope that it would not leave early as I now had 1 minute to buy my ticket and hop aboard. The only woman in the queue saw the pained look on my face as I plodded up to her and let me go straight to the ticket counter. “Mumbai,” I panted, and the agent’s eyes went wide. He knew the train was about to leave and so hastily printed the ticket and had my change in hand. “Run,” he said, “and you might make it—it’s about to leave.” I didn’t need to be told twice, and despite the large pack on my back, I was off like a shot, dodging woman with children, men with large carpetbags, and even railway officials. I arrived on the platform as the train was closing its doors. With no time to find the correct coach, I lunged for the first ladder and door I saw, jumping on and scrambling aboard just as the train was pulling out of the station.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">I may have lost my sleeper accommodation on the other train and now had to sit all night on a hard seat to Mumbai, but at least I was aboard, and at least I would be in the city the next day. At that point, nothing else mattered. The hundreds of rupees lost in poor negotiating, the fact that I was now drenched with sweat once more and would arrive in Mumbai a reeking and disheveled mess, and the fact that in the best case I would be a few hours late faded with the last light of day as I breathed a sigh of relief to be cruising southward. </p>Rob Besthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09463964785697202357noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9070652898233554429.post-70358246684750023852011-06-26T15:13:00.000-07:002011-06-26T15:17:57.016-07:00My Days in Delhi: Part 2<p class="MsoNormal">I continue today the discussion I started in my last post. In this I will talk a bit about my encounters with the poorer classes in Delhi and hope that you can draw some contrasts to <a href="http://robswatsonadventure.blogspot.com/2011/06/my-days-in-delhi-part-1.html">my last post</a> which focused on the middle and upper classes. I will also group students in this discussion simply because by our Western standards, the jobless are often lumped in with the impoverished in official statistics. However I will also try and explain the difference between these groups in India, and then hopefully give some thoughts on why achieving a sustainable society has extra challenges because of the existence of these groups.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">My first encounter with students about my own age in India came within my first few days in Delhi. I happened to be walking through Connaught Place and was called over by a couple of young guys named Ganesh and Subhash. They were both recent computer science graduates (a popular major in India) enjoying a day off from their job searching in the sunshine. I could understand why when they said that they had been job searching for several months on end and had not really found anything. Worse, each had only had a couple of interviews. They explained that there are far more computer science graduates each year than there are jobs, even with the IT sector in India booming. So each call for a position netted dozens to hundreds of applicants. I witnessed this firsthand when the hotel in which I stayed hosted 7 days of interviews for a shipping company—over 570 applicants interviewed over those days.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">So though these students seemed cheerful today, they had the difficulty of being without any income and reliant on family and relations to support them until they could find a job. Neither could guess when a position might arise, and when it did it would almost certainly not be the one they wanted. It turned out that during my time in India both of them found jobs, but then had to work very long hours doing things they enjoyed but which were not ideal for either. However I suppose they should count themselves lucky to have jobs.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Throughout my time I met several other students, especially on my various weekends out or at conferences. It was often true that students were more curious than adults and more willing to approach me and find out who I was. Perhaps because they had learned English in school they were more confident in speaking to me, or perhaps they felt kinship because of the age similarity. For whatever reason, in both Chandigarh and Amritsar I was approached by students, two in computer science and one in business, and then later at the Delhi Sustainable Development Summit met an engineering student.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">In all of my interactions with these students (including the two that I met on my first days in Delhi) one big theme emerged—to them I was not just a friend but a potential avenue either to school in the US or a free meal. It bothered me a bit that I felt like the “friendship” was being taken advantage of just a bit in the sense that it did not seem as though there was just a genuine desire to hang out and talk. There were always suggestions to go and get food (followed often by profession of lack of funds) or questions about how they could get jobs in America or go to university in America. Now I don’t mind helping friends, but when after talking with someone for about 10 minutes you ask if he can help you go to America, that’s a bit forward to me. The worst was being asked to serve as a sponsor for someone to go to University in the US.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>At least on that one I had legal ground to firmly say no (though I never said yes anyway to these requests). As for the food requests, it was a bit disheartening to see that even the younger generation had adopted the association of foreigners (even poor student foreigners) with money. I somehow felt that had I too been Indian, money suddenly would be found and the cost of the meal shared. Perhaps, however, there is also something cultural I am missing in this, and perhaps next time I meet any of them my meal will be offered instead of theirs being asked.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">After all of these conversations, the impression I got is that many students dream of being able to go to the US, few actually have the means to get into school there or pay for it. It seems as well that no one is really there to give them career advice or school advice. This was especially clear in two separate requests for me to tell students where in the US they should apply. I was given grades, test scores, and interests and basically asked to be a guidance counselor. I explained that it was not my job to do such research for them, but since they clearly had internet access (they both were on Facebook), I explained how to do such searches themselves. That, however, did not seem appealing, and I don’t believe either followed up.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">These encounters give me an interesting view of education and schools in India. I had previously been told by a researcher at The Energy and Resources Institute in Delhi that education in India did not emphasize individual thought but rather being able to copy and paste relevant information. In some ways, this approach carries over to how I was asked about school applications and ways of going to the US. Rather than generate the information themselves, they were looking for someone to spoon-feed it to them. I don’t want to generalize too quickly here and make this occurrence seem epidemic in India (though the TERI researcher’s comment led me in the direction of that conclusion) but if I did encounter a representative sample, then this could pose a challenge for India’s growth in the future. While the education system is improving rapidly (something you have to give credit for considering the baseline from which the nation began 65 years ago), without a spirit of independent research and knowledge creation it will be difficult for India to rise to the top of world nations. In a few conversations with other travelers and scholars, I am led to believe that this style of education is fairly common in the developing world and perhaps is the reason why many of these nations have trouble growing economically (except those like China and India where sheer numbers can provide incredible growth).</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Now before I get too down on education and innovation in India, I would like to counter that there are some smart, innovative individuals in the nation that I met. Two happened to be students in Chandigarh. Though in their first year of studies in computer science (what else), they had already begun writing plot lines and code for video games. Close friends, they hoped that after their education was finished, they might be able to work together on their own start-up company making such games. More recently, I received a message from one of them that he has started a web design and graphic design business. You can check out some of his work <a href="http://www.facebook.com/since93kds">here</a>. I know they are still young, but just to find this entrepreneurial, innovative spirit was refreshing. In my experience, it is rare to find such thoughts and ideas being carried out among 19 year olds in America even with the education system we have (definitely more thoughts to be explored on that one, but not appropriate here). All I can hope is that these two students won’t be discouraged by their education or by jobs they may have to take en route to their dream company to pay the bills. With the competition and long hours that I have been told are common in computer-based employment in India, I would not be surprised if many young, bright individuals burn out and never get to implement their dreams. Hopefully I am wrong on that.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Yet to many, even the long hours and low pay of call centers are a dream that is still unattainable. For much of India’s population, living in poverty is still a reality and for many, even a simple job is still a dream. Every day as I rode the Metro to and from meetings or activities and then walked the streets to get to and fro I encountered the urban poor of India. Even within this “class,” though, there are many different levels. The people here range from those who own shops or businesses catering to the local populations in the poorer areas to those who must beg for a living. I will try and explain from my observations a bit more about what I mean on this.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">My first impressions of Delhi came in one of these poorer neighborhoods (you can read more about those first few days in <a href="http://robswatsonadventure.blogspot.com/2011/04/discovering-delhi.html">one of my previous blog posts</a>).Here, though many people owned shops or sold goods, the living was clearly not good as the buyers often had the same income level as the sellers. Tourists were targeted for the extra income they could be expected to bring (mostly through quoting higher prices than an Indian would get and then counting on the tourists not bargaining as well). Here as well many tried to make a living selling travel packages to their villages elsewhere in the country, usually in Kashmir. They said they must do this work so that their family had a source of income. For some, I doubt this assertion is entirely true but for others, I believe it may be. One such many took me into his home the first night for dinner. After navigating the narrow alleyways between buildings, stepping over mud puddles and sleeping dogs, and passing many huddled around small stoves with little food, we arrived at his building. Though it was run-down and dirty, it at least had plumbing and electricity. His “apartment” (if it can be called that) was simply a room—four walls and a floor—with a wooden door leading in. He and his cousin slept on mats on the floor with pillows and no more. The only other possessions were a deck of cards and a pile of clothes. A few magazine pictures adorned the walls. The kitchen and bathroom were shared among the whole floor. Not exactly glamorous living conditions, and yet I imagine he was better off than others in the city.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Aside from those who own shops or service centers, many of the lower classes are employed in poor service jobs, including servants for the wealthy and the most visible—rickshaw drivers. I have no idea how much per day these drivers make, but it is clear from the clothes they wear that it is not lucrative. Moreover, with so many drivers in India and bargaining being the norm, it can often be hard to get a fare. It is no wonder then that people like me get charged much more than is normal because we are not expected to know the correct fare. Yet what amazed me about some of these drivers is that they often would turn down a fare even if the price was fair because they did not want to. I suppose that this visible declining of fares is part of what gives rise to the stereotype of some Indians as being lazy. Though it is fully within their right to decline such fares, it does seem as though even small trips would be worthwhile to these drivers when outwardly it would appear as if the money is needed. When I finally did agree on a price with my drivers, I noticed that many are uneducated. It seems that it is an entrance position for those who move into the city or a job for those who could not afford school earlier in life. While this is a good thing, for many it seems as though they become stuck in that position with little chance of moving upward. India’s social structure makes this difficult, and the bonds that form among rickshaw drivers seem to only strengthens this lack of upward mobility.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">As you ride in your rickshaw through the streets of India you see the very bottom of Indian society. They are even more noticeable as you walk the streets. They are the hardest part, in my opnion, about living in India or visiting. You quickly develop a tough skin, though, because if not you would soon be among them. They are those who must beg for a living. Unfortunately these displaced people make up such a large part of the population, many living in slums or other informal housing, that you feel sometimes as if it is every other step that you are begged of. For these people, life must be very tough as it is unlikely that they get much money per day given that for many in India money is tight. The good news is that organizations are working daily to help these people find better jobs and employment, especially for the children in this position. The challenge is that there are so many (and the number is growing as more migrate to the cities) that to help them all is very tough.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">I have heard some very bad stories about India’s urban poor. They range from stories of babies being drugged to look sicklier than they are to try and gain more money to beggars in rich neighborhoods being beaten for approaching white tourists. The worst stories involve organized groups of children sent out to beg and then return the money to the ringleader (reminiscent of Fagan’s gang in Dickens’ classic <u>Oliver Twist</u>). Never having seen either of these myself I cannot assess their truth, so take both with a grain of salt. However I can believe that certain beggars would try and find an “angle” so to speak given the numbers that exist and therefore the competition. What bothered me most, however, was the persistence. Several times while sitting in a park I was approached by beggars, often children, who would not relent until I finally had to get up and move. Even after being told no, many of the beggars I encountered would only redouble their efforts. Tugging at clothes was common, following me in my path for a bit often occurred, and on rare occasions, my path was temporarily obstructed by those wanting money. As I said, this was the toughest part of living in India simply because the condition in which these people appear makes you want to give something, but the reality is that there are too many to give to some and not others. Money is better spent giving to organizations that help remove these people from poverty than directly to the people themselves.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">So why is this all relevant to the discussion about sustainable cities in India? I’ll start with perhaps the biggest and most obvious challenge this very spread out population causes and that is the spending needed on development and infrastructure to accommodate and equalize the population. Currently India is in dire need of huge infrastructural investment to bring sanitation, plumbing, electricity, and mass transit to much of the nation so that those in the lower classes can simply improve their lifestyles to an acceptable level and maintain safer living conditions. This means that money otherwise could be spent on environment and efficiency improvements must rightly instead go to merely raising the average standard of living. I am not criticizing these priorities in any way but simply stating that until this happens it will be hard for India to focus on sustainable development.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Even once the infrastructure is in place to raise the standard of living, the income disparity in India and the rapid development of a middle class will create another challenge as they strive to reach the levels of comfort that the upper classes and middle classes in Europe and America enjoy. Though at this point we are assuming that basic needs are adequately cared for, what will happen is that extra income will likely be spent on items such as air conditioners (which are still not common in India homes), televisions, and computers, all of which will add to the already stressed Indian electrical grid. So instead of merely needing to provide low-emissions energy of the existing demand, India will suddenly have to supply low-emissions electricity for double or triple the current demand. This is already being tackled in India through consumer-oriented measures of reducing electricity consumption in electronics. Rating schemes and mandatory energy limits are being imposed on some new products to help citizens make informed choices on low-energy devices. However the sheer potential for electronic growth in India is incredible and means that no matter how hard the government tries, demand will grow. Along with electricity growth will be growth in demand for water both for human consumption and as a result of the new sewer systems and plumbing. India is already water-stressed and this increased demand just to reach a basic standard of living will necessitate innovative solutions to water supply and demand.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">One other challenge that is tied to these other two is that there is not a standard housing or commercial solution for India’s sustainable development. That statement is pretty much true everywhere, but in India the challenge is exacerbated by the extreme differences in wealth and housing types. In this country where a 27 storey tower for one family overlooks the largest slum in the nation you clearly have vastly different challenges facing different sectors of the population. For architects, the challenge is how to create good, efficient low-cost housing that will help improve the quality of life for the urban poor without creating discomfort or economic disadvantage. Because of high costs for efficient and sustainable materials, it would be very possible for India’s urban poor to continue to be housed in inefficient buildings. This means that they must choose either between poor comfort or spending large amounts of their income on heating and cooling. It is for this reason that many architects are looking to traditional housing for insights. The climatic diversity in India complicates this challenge further and provides another impetus for considering traditional housing styles.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">These are by no means the only challenges for development or sustainability in India caused by such the large disparity of classes in the country, but if I were to list them all, it would take pages. So for now I’ll leave it there but as always, I’m happy to discuss more if anyone is interested. I guess overall though I hope to leave the impression that India is a very diverse nation for many reasons, not the least of which is the class structure. It almost has two polar opposite societies increasingly linked by the burgeoning middle class. It will be interesting to watch how this changes and develops in the coming years. Personally I think it will transform the nation and provide power for India’s development. However it is a long road yet until that is the case.</p>Rob Besthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09463964785697202357noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9070652898233554429.post-84421254153319731872011-06-19T02:03:00.000-07:002011-06-19T02:05:29.083-07:00My Days in Delhi: Part 1<p class="MsoNormal">It is an understatement to say that India is a complex nation. It overwhelms your senses, challenges your understanding of social norms, and throws you something new at each turn. Two and a half months is not enough to unravel its mysteries and comprehend its dichotomies, but it is at least enough to experience them and make a few educated conjectures about their origins, meanings, and importance. In this post I attempt to do just that using my experiences in Delhi as a basis. I hope that after reading this, you’ll have a glimpse of what life in Delhi is like for several different classes of people and how it challenges the Western mind to be immersed in it. For those reading who have been in India, I’d really appreciate hearing how your experiences were similar or different and some thoughts and reflections as well. This post will focus just on one part of my experience, namely my interactions with some of Delhi’s upper and middle classes. In later posts, I will look at the other segments of Delhi’s life I saw and try to piece together some thoughts about this diverse and interesting nation.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">In my time in Delhi, the largest continuous chunk of which came after my adventure to Agra, I found myself caught in some ways between different strata of society. Throughout my stay I had been offered free accommodation at the capital’s newest eco-friendly hotel, <a href="http://www.greenleaf.bz/">Green Leaf</a>, in exchange for a bit of English teaching and marketing work—a fair trade in my mind—and in taking this offer had also opened the door to a friendship with the owner and developer. (As an aside, I want to point out that this is a very “Indian” way of doing business—bartering or trading to strike a deal rather than just selling based on a posted price like in the Western world). Throughout my friendship with the owner, I came to learn that he was part of the higher circles of Delhi’s social strata. Having grown up in Delhi the grandson of a transportation magnate, he was educated at some of Delhi’s top secondary schools and universities. Unlike many Indians in the 1970s and 80s, he was able to finish his MBA in the US at the prestigious Harvard Business School.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">All of this background is to introduce that when I spent time with the owner, it was not as an average member of Delhi life. On multiple occasions I returned to my hotel via the Metro and my own two feet (my preferred forms of transit for economic, social, and environmental reasons) from meeting an architect to find a car and driver waiting to convey me the two and a half miles to his house—a distance I could easily walk in about the same time as the car took fighting Delhi’s horrendous rush hour traffic (it makes LA look tame—at least we don’t have drivers going the wrong way, making lanes out of nothing, and bumping and grinding one another as part of the normal routine). While bouncing ideas around for new sustainable projects, he and I occasionally dined out, sometimes taking sushi, noodles, freshly prepared chicken curries, or kathi rolls and sometimes also indulging in a glass of wine or a cocktail.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Yet it wasn’t as much being driven around town like a celebrity or dining out that gave me a glimpse at the upper echelons of Delhi society. Instead it was the occasional glimpses into his social calendar or home life that provided insight. It seemed that often when I dropped by the office to chat with him he was out attending some function or other at his old college, or on invitation from a member of his Student’s Association. There was definitely an “Old Boys Club” attitude among those who had been lucky enough to study in his class at university, and these days, the now successful businessmen from that group filled his calendar with constant invitations to cricket tournaments, guest lectures, and golf tournaments (one of which he proudly won). </p> <p class="MsoNormal">While I did not have the opportunity to attend any of these events with the owner, I did get a chance to mingle with others in his circle on several occasions at his house. On these visits, I was always received by my host and one of his house “boys” (all of whom were much older than me) and offered coffee, a snack, or a drink at least. On separate occasions, I attended parties at his house, one of which was thrown by his wife and lavishly decorated and catered—there was even top quality jazz saxophone playing by yours truly (that’s how you know it’s a classy party). Though it was obvious from the preparation and decoration that money had been put into these parties, I’m sure the expense would likely pale in comparison to the cost of some parties of the wealthy in the States. There was nothing extremely extraordinary or lavish, but compared to the world just down the road, it was certainly a vast difference. Then again, to be fair, though he is well-off, he is not among the ranks of the super wealthy which is a small and extremely elite group in India that likely can outdo even America’s wealthy in opulence.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Yet the most interesting aspect of these parties was not the decoration but the people. Of course his family members attended, but at the same time there were many friends whose occupations ranged from a couple working at the US Embassy to owners of small and medium-sized companies to high-powered financial and business minds at some of Delhi’s top companies. Conversations ranged from fishing to the new models of Jaguar, and of course politics and recollections from years gone by. On one particular occasion, I recall having drinks with the owner and a friend at his house (a well-known model and actor in India) and was regaled with a story of how this guest had used his influential stature to procure a visa for a friend when the embassy was dragging its feet. From the time he called to the time he had the documents in hand was only a few hours, whereas without his intervention it could have been days before the visa was processed. From his story, I got a glimpse of the importance of connections and influence in Indian society and thought back on all the times he offered for me to stay longer in Delhi promising that the visa would be no issue. This extralegal intervention was intriguing as it shows exactly why many are frustrated with Indian society. Certainly a well-placed call can move papers along in any nation, but the scale of it in India—contacting a powerful acquaintance to pressure on your behalf and getting results in hours despite the law—is tending toward the corruption that many complain plagues the country.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">On these nights as well it was interesting to watch the parade of cars and drivers pick up and drop off their guests not because the cars were exotic or incredibly expensive but just because it left me wondering where the drivers would go while their employers were enjoying merriment and revelry. Once inside, the guests and I dined on catered hors-d’oeuvres and drank imported liquor, neither of which were part of my life in Delhi otherwise.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">When not in the company of the owner but at the hotel, I spent time with the hotel staff. The managers and office staff were my main friends as they spoke at least some English—the rest of the staff knew only a few words related to their jobs (even with this limited English, however, we occasionally dined together). The owner had told me that many of these employees had come from poorer backgrounds but now were part of the burgeoning middle class in India. Now the middle class in India is an interesting phenomenon that has only arisen really since Dr. Manmohan Singh restructured the economy to eliminate the “Hindu rate of growth” thereby allowing the economy to expand at its own rate. The result has been a greater number of jobs between the lower manufacturing and local services and the top level of businessmen. Yet the middle class is not the same as it is in the US. It is not easy to earn a good wage in India and harder still to move up the social ladder (holdovers of the caste system, even though it is officially illegal, still act as barriers among other things). However for those who do make up part of the middle class, there is a noticeable change in the clothing, goods, and even preferred modes of transport.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">For instance, I take my friend the hotel manager as an example. He had come from a lower class background but now, thanks to his job at the hotel, sported a laptop, an old used car that occasionally did not work, a Blackberry phone, and a few new shirts and jackets. Of all of these he was very proud and saw as signs of his increasing status. One day he proudly announced to me as well that his wife was learning how to use the computer at home. Yet despite his changing status, he had not lost his sense of what was most important. He was at his proudest when talking about his daughter and showing me photos or short videos he had taken with the laptop and always worked hard at the hotel.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The manager was not alone in these qualities. Of all of my newer middle class friends, and especially the college students and young professionals I met, there was an interesting mix of traditional values and newer ideals. At the hotel especially, those who had worked hard and could recall worse days continued to work diligently even though they had attained a higher status than they perhaps had ever hoped for as children already. There was reverence for the family—on several occasions one of the staff would be absent while taking care of a family member’s health. Yet at the same time there was a new consumerism and a clear desire for more and more material goods. Anytime I popped out of my room with something in hand they had not previously seen a look of wonder crossed their faces. The glimmer in the eyes of each told me that they were studying the object and dreaming of perhaps having something like that themselves. My computer, camera, and iPod became objects that to them represented a yet higher status that in their minds I could see they were thinking of attaining. It was strange to think about this becoming a trend here in a land where I could wander the streets and buy any knock-off goods I wanted very cheaply (just be careful—I think it’s impossible to buy a 128 GB flash drive for $2, but they will try to sell you exactly that!).</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Though interested in this complex issue of a new middle class in India and what consumerism might mean for sustainability and building issues, with my particular friends I was more interested and surprised by flashes of contempt I saw for the lower classes. On one occasion, I accompanied the manager on a sales call to try and drum up more business for the hotel. As we wandered the streets near the property we were approached by a woman in rags begging for money or food. To me it was nothing new at that point. Having been in India for over a month I was used to being begged of (more on that in my next post). Yet to the manager, it was unthinkable that such a woman should beg of us, but more specifically, of me. He became very angry when she persisted and eventually after a bit of yelling we left. The next day he was still visibly upset about it and continuously apologizing to me for the occurrence. I didn’t really know what to think of this particular occurrence. At once it was kind that he felt so protective of me but at the same time, like many in India, this woman didn’t have much option but to beg. I didn’t see the action as unjustifiable or so heinous in comparison to the reality of India that it deserved such a strong rebuke. Perhaps the manager felt that begging is not necessary or even wrong as a way to earn a living (certainly he has found another, better pathway for himself and his family), but even so, his reaction and visible anger was strong for this. I wonder a bit if there was some hidden relic of the caste system or past social structures that played a part in this anger. I don’t have the knowledge either in Hindi (the language in which the exchange took place) nor in the culture to understand if such a motivation exists, but it was just a speculation.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">On that note, I think I will leave off for now and continue this in my next post with some thoughts on the lower classes and some musings on the future of social structures and sustainability in India. Again, any thoughts or other observations are greatly appreciated!<br /></p>Rob Besthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09463964785697202357noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9070652898233554429.post-11712563464355181392011-06-04T18:12:00.000-07:002011-06-04T18:18:43.827-07:00My First ArticleI know it's been over a month since my last post. I apologize to those who have been following the blog closely but it's been a very busy few months with a lot more trips out of London than previously anticipated (which is a good thing that you'll hear more about later!). However, I have been busy writing as well and wanted to share the result of all of that with you today. Back in September at a conference in Shanghai I met an editor for the online magazine <a href="wwww.chinadialogue.net">China Dialogue</a> and after some conversation thought that perhaps I'd be able to put in an article as a contributing author. After a long process and some delays, I finally put together an article on the current state of brownfield remediation in China. It went live online two days ago and so I thought I'd share with all of you. Please do check it out at <a href="http://www.chinadialogue.net/article/show/single/en/4329-Confronting-China-s-industrial-ghosts">http://www.chinadialogue.net/article/show/single/en/4329-Confronting-China-s-industrial-ghosts</a> and if you are interested in the state of environmental affairs in China, follow the whole online magazine--it's a great read and quite informative!Rob Besthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09463964785697202357noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9070652898233554429.post-84886234990306979572011-04-29T19:24:00.000-07:002011-04-29T19:36:43.350-07:00This is What Makes a Trip Special<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAHOGNKEABee4h9PJssnqbhxuk18MdxPDibGRuKnDzTFy6JtXm_yhvbG10tGXrn-ExXq-XVITKVLkNjLklUg4-X3_Bujfik5XHvStZIZ5gaagazJbW9iKMPpnQDG1KCwUYfIVmdH58oF0/s1600/P1040887.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"></a><p class="MsoNormal">I wanted to put up a short post today to highlight an event that to me was quite special and meaningful and really is what makes a trip unique and fun. I almost included this in the previous post, but thought that it deserved its own. One of the things about being on your own is that you have the flexibility just to get up and go somewhere else one day whether for fun or for the project. A downside though is that you are always traveling alone. That is what makes it special when strangers reach out and take you in as a friend.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">That’s what this post is about. Now I understand that when traveling you have to be careful and wary of who you trust and with what, but at the same time you cannot be too afraid or paranoid or else you will miss on special opportunities that can really make a trip. The day after I went to Agra I had such an experience. A last minute e-mail from a member of the Central Building Research Institute called me up to Roorkee for an afternoon to visit the Institute and learn what they are doing. I have already discussed some of this in <a href="http://robswatsonadventure.blogspot.com/2011/04/what-does-sustainable-indian-building.html">my previous post on what a sustainable building is in India</a>, and so I will not discuss that here. Instead what made the day special was what happened on the way back to Delhi.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">As usual, I had taken a book with me to occupy myself on the 4 hour train ride. I sat in my upper berth reading and from time to time watching the people across and below sleeping, chatting away in Hindi, or occasionally playing cards. I had not heard any English on my way into the train, and no one seemed keen to talk with me, so I had figured I would settle on my book at least for a while. However after about an hour, I was startled up from my reading by a voice below. “Would you like some dinner?”</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Politely, I declined, figuring that it was an offer of politeness and not necessarily a true invitation. Besides, a warning in my head about drugged sweets on trains to Varanasi made me a bit wary and so I figured I would pass. But this speaker was persistence. They asked again and showed me the food, ready on a plate, and being shared by several others in their group. After thinking it over, I figured that the worst that could happen was that they would demand money at the end. So why not, I thought, and dropped down from my bunk to join them at their crowded bench.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">With big smiles they squished me into their seating area, right in the middle, and watched joyfully as I ate the food they put before me. The patriarch of the group explained that they were a group of 175 in total from Ahmedabad in Gujarat returning from a religious pilgrimage to Haridwar. For the long journey they had packed food but had extra and were happy to share and so invited me in to join. They asked what I was doing in India, and I explained myself, and then we talked for the rest of the ride (about 3 hours) on various subjects—India, America, engineering, religion, politics, and a host of others that I cannot now remember. One by one, they fetched the members of their group to come by and say hello, and in some cases snap a photo.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The whole experience was great, and at the end I was a bit saddened to say goodbye to my new friends who had so quickly and genuinely welcomed me into their family group, fed me, and made the ride much more enjoyable. We exchanged e-mails and phone numbers, and I promised to send the pictures and call if or when I made it down to Ahmedabad. Bidding them a safe journey, I headed on my way and left them to continue down the tracks to Gujarat.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">As I said, you have to take some precaution when traveling alone, but if you don’t take a few chances, you won’t meet friendly people as I did. It is amazing how often on this trip I have made new friends who just come into my life for a few hours and then are not to be seen or heard from again. Yet these encounters make the trip far more enjoyable, less lonely, and provide memories that are unique to my trip to India (or wherever).</p><p class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoxArZWgr8dcmOBlMVmvxIQHUaLTE_mG4eG45pg3xvNljEEAkUtMMA3Lpi8fF-ITSwUjKFkRjcodiJ65Y-d7cGPUG1QUfgJdiMsdmeS6r2vYdcm4C2nEz38Zb-Y8z4nCu85hXfx66DtK8/s1600/P1040882.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoxArZWgr8dcmOBlMVmvxIQHUaLTE_mG4eG45pg3xvNljEEAkUtMMA3Lpi8fF-ITSwUjKFkRjcodiJ65Y-d7cGPUG1QUfgJdiMsdmeS6r2vYdcm4C2nEz38Zb-Y8z4nCu85hXfx66DtK8/s320/P1040882.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5601198387666891298" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKFF9AlcYdbTmcHKbh0FThyphenhyphen_4j-pmE5yTudW5SCoz1LZdWHeQJC2OOMznwn9HikMw1cQBJDkckTeu8xFsJhnFD4rTsiH21h4ehj6-ZgnNH8JOFt11YZSTzTBMcs2OuJK2bnagpFcHFJjY/s1600/P1040883.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKFF9AlcYdbTmcHKbh0FThyphenhyphen_4j-pmE5yTudW5SCoz1LZdWHeQJC2OOMznwn9HikMw1cQBJDkckTeu8xFsJhnFD4rTsiH21h4ehj6-ZgnNH8JOFt11YZSTzTBMcs2OuJK2bnagpFcHFJjY/s320/P1040883.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5601198383672243890" style="display: block; 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margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZY_CG5SokVKjdbkqcJWYVWeJwArd0wX8d_NN7UqDkO315wS-STfKsUoW6y2MMc0E9B893NZ5KqTQZmDetxyZ-gsexlDr3YiVbYAJ3zYpWWR8C7UG_tQgdGhGdJMqY-E3VtqYJ84Hf_Wc/s1600/P1040890.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZY_CG5SokVKjdbkqcJWYVWeJwArd0wX8d_NN7UqDkO315wS-STfKsUoW6y2MMc0E9B893NZ5KqTQZmDetxyZ-gsexlDr3YiVbYAJ3zYpWWR8C7UG_tQgdGhGdJMqY-E3VtqYJ84Hf_Wc/s320/P1040890.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5601199751087824706" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-acNtyVQXsUapzAf0AZyAQsDkymDCMZ_naEbK_FfHpxrXvbAp2I8xUxEz3190RLztL8QOAMiyseANz12ipv69yWoyP2mC-oDktqjLr42kpJGEuBa2Sg0LZX1ePV0Yqsnq3mGPk0nNBxc/s1600/P1040891.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-acNtyVQXsUapzAf0AZyAQsDkymDCMZ_naEbK_FfHpxrXvbAp2I8xUxEz3190RLztL8QOAMiyseANz12ipv69yWoyP2mC-oDktqjLr42kpJGEuBa2Sg0LZX1ePV0Yqsnq3mGPk0nNBxc/s320/P1040891.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5601199752543708786" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoxArZWgr8dcmOBlMVmvxIQHUaLTE_mG4eG45pg3xvNljEEAkUtMMA3Lpi8fF-ITSwUjKFkRjcodiJ65Y-d7cGPUG1QUfgJdiMsdmeS6r2vYdcm4C2nEz38Zb-Y8z4nCu85hXfx66DtK8/s1600/P1040882.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><p></p><p></p>Rob Besthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09463964785697202357noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9070652898233554429.post-31770511603417671672011-04-28T08:16:00.000-07:002011-04-28T08:28:50.883-07:00A Teardrop on the Face of Eternity<div style="text-align: left;">I’ll return now to more of my travel adventures having written last about sustainable buildings in India. It was the day after the close of the conferences I mentioned in that post that I embarked on a day trip to see the single most famous building in India. Whether it is also sustainable, I cannot say, but it certainly has lasted for centuries and is just as gorgeous today as it was years ago.</div> <p class="MsoNormal">It is very convenient that Agra, home of the Taj Mahal, is only a short train ride from Delhi. With the amount of tourists heading there daily, trains ply the route frequently and quickly, whisking you there in the morning, giving you 8 hours to see the city, and then returning you to Delhi in time to get a<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>good night’s sleep. It was nice to finally have a single easy trip to my weekend destination, though this one did take me several tries to book—the lure of the Taj means that the root is one of the most popular in India.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">However as soon as you step out of the train in Agra, be ready to fight for every last penny. Because of the touristic nature of the city, the hawkers and touts are worse here than in many parts of the country. As soon as I had hit the platform, I was mobbed by drivers asking if I wanted a rickshaw or, as they rightly guessed, I wanted to see the Taj. Wading through the mob of people, I found the pre-paid auto-rickshaw booth (use one if you can—always) to book my driver for the day. Here, however, was a clever driver who was waiting just for people like me. Though he seemed kind enough by offering to, for the same fare and pre-paid slip, drive me in his A/C car rather than a rickshaw, I was to learn that he was not the same as a driver in a rickshaw. First, after I had been frustrated at his pushing more expensive options on me, he finally settled for what I wanted but then just as I was about to hand over my money slyly slipped in that I would have to pay for parking at all stops as well, about 20 rupees per stop. Feeling cheated, I told him no until he finally relented and gave me the price on the board. As I’ve come to learn in India, even when a sign says something is a certain price or is available, don’t assume that is true until you sk. You may still have to fight tooth and nail to get the advertised price.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Finally we were on our way to the Taj Mahal. Though the driver went slower than I thought he should (we were being passed by rickshaws), we finally made id, and I was off on my first adventure of the day. After standing in the long line for security (like everywhere in India, you must go through a metal detector just to get in the door), I entered the grounds of this most famous of all Indian buildings. What I walked into was an entry plaza ringed with sandstone buildings beautifully ornamented and skillfully carved, arranged around a central plaza of grass and walkways. To my left, just over the top of one of the buildings I got my first glimpse of the white marble beauty hiding in the next court. I moved slowly to the center of the plaza, turned to my left, and there beheld my first sight of the Taj Mahal. Through the doorway of the ornate sandstone gateway it sat, visible and yet framed in such a way as to draw you closer—clearly there was more to be revealed.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyqzm8ly2dLU4yKlx8qS5JyeZCdCUUVP3jDQP3batGEgD-A1TwOpIRT0Bq3fg9WXsGtXked354ZgKc22DlRWwRdL-Het9VY9A6SeNGzmGWh3p0dMY_Sns2Rxuyrv11roLcaALxAvZ6Vxg/s1600/P1040618.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyqzm8ly2dLU4yKlx8qS5JyeZCdCUUVP3jDQP3batGEgD-A1TwOpIRT0Bq3fg9WXsGtXked354ZgKc22DlRWwRdL-Het9VY9A6SeNGzmGWh3p0dMY_Sns2Rxuyrv11roLcaALxAvZ6Vxg/s320/P1040618.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5600654144879678850" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUgvHdX7B0Ux_4zr7CQpwE4CYzTW_S-UohQkS8Pqy2vit7NO1hZsIjr7KsnzPp-vt3JmoJ6e_eo_ukwzzi7RkWHyrK0cl3IFZbkUT_oBWyTAkAXJ30NsScJ031CO0JoOpiZgBnCLslbeA/s1600/P1040628.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUgvHdX7B0Ux_4zr7CQpwE4CYzTW_S-UohQkS8Pqy2vit7NO1hZsIjr7KsnzPp-vt3JmoJ6e_eo_ukwzzi7RkWHyrK0cl3IFZbkUT_oBWyTAkAXJ30NsScJ031CO0JoOpiZgBnCLslbeA/s320/P1040628.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5600654143737501682" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">I crept closer, keeping my eye on the doorway and the marble beauty beyond until finally I had gone up the steps and through, emerging into the grand plaza beyond. There it sat, resplendent in the late morning sun and brilliantly white against the blue sky in the back. The forecourt led visually and literally up to its steps as pool after pool ran elegantly from the gateway to the magnificent marble tomb at the end. An appropriate distance away on either side sat a sandstone outbuilding, one a mosque, where devotees still pray every Friday.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW-wQn5E16RDeucZCgfkcvubGH8OvlYsWS15CoFVs2fGaKY1wD1x68Z6OUCUbe7njHY_CdAR8jdq8YDiOHebGipghoe_dVay0hyWIth26WaakRcy_JfcSXl4aATGyiG3SZbpCxesvjfMo/s1600/P1040647.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW-wQn5E16RDeucZCgfkcvubGH8OvlYsWS15CoFVs2fGaKY1wD1x68Z6OUCUbe7njHY_CdAR8jdq8YDiOHebGipghoe_dVay0hyWIth26WaakRcy_JfcSXl4aATGyiG3SZbpCxesvjfMo/s320/P1040647.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5600654138910224802" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></span></b></p><p class="MsoNormal"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "></span></b></p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align: center; "><b><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi_8bzB_5hRfg5JDPaZufaN3-SSydcslbqEp78QSsHp1eT8oFcFV9h3FAzGPyVyGJmhNwnPOJRCnqWhagVG_LpOzSo_4tWNDVmSiyS5lBHRNi5-uJbbSZqg8CF6WhkJ_LDYJJ-rlgPzd8/s1600/P1040676.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi_8bzB_5hRfg5JDPaZufaN3-SSydcslbqEp78QSsHp1eT8oFcFV9h3FAzGPyVyGJmhNwnPOJRCnqWhagVG_LpOzSo_4tWNDVmSiyS5lBHRNi5-uJbbSZqg8CF6WhkJ_LDYJJ-rlgPzd8/s320/P1040676.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5600654137840572146" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></span></b></b></p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJrCPCs-TxwXOH6gB8CkXMmS7Y_BtT7dyKnOS_bNLVKL6PpS8dFDOLV0outabPsryE6XYXylNwgC4YPlT3XU1TaxL8F_XNZMD2E5HWR6bG4nNo3DYDTEym4_oV8SO9eftsF82-QOiRYJc/s1600/P1040691.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"></a><p></p><p class="MsoNormal">The sight was breathtaking. It was an absolute masterpiece visually, and the brilliance of the Taj was gorgeous. I stood for a few minutes simply admiring the sight, that is when I could get to the banister overlooking the courtyard. Between the other tourists and the photographers regularly clearing the banister for a paying customer to pose (rather annoying since I paid to see the thing just like everyone else), it was hard to get a chance just to gaze on the building. Even with the hustle around, the sight of it was peaceful. In fact, the crowded nature was almost invisible at times as I stared out over the pathway leading up to the Taj. When not in my trance, I couldn’t help but think how incongruous the loud throngs of tourists were in this place of peace. You have to recall that this was built as a memorial for Mumtaz, Shah Jahan’s favorite wife. It was not meant to be a public gathering place but rather one man’s memorial to his beloved. Its intent was as a peaceful place of reflection and remembrance. It is almost desecrating the grounds, in my opinion, to have tourists boisterously overrun the site.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">As you approach the Taj, the beauty changes and the details come into focus. Rather than seeing the beauty as a whole, you begin to see the carefully scripted Arabic around the doorways, the marble bricks and seams, and the incredible precious stone inlays in gorgeous flower patterns. The dissolving effect of the whole to these details is incredible and provides another layer of depth to the whole building.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "></span></b></p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align: center; "><b><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi_8bzB_5hRfg5JDPaZufaN3-SSydcslbqEp78QSsHp1eT8oFcFV9h3FAzGPyVyGJmhNwnPOJRCnqWhagVG_LpOzSo_4tWNDVmSiyS5lBHRNi5-uJbbSZqg8CF6WhkJ_LDYJJ-rlgPzd8/s1600/P1040676.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJrCPCs-TxwXOH6gB8CkXMmS7Y_BtT7dyKnOS_bNLVKL6PpS8dFDOLV0outabPsryE6XYXylNwgC4YPlT3XU1TaxL8F_XNZMD2E5HWR6bG4nNo3DYDTEym4_oV8SO9eftsF82-QOiRYJc/s1600/P1040691.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJrCPCs-TxwXOH6gB8CkXMmS7Y_BtT7dyKnOS_bNLVKL6PpS8dFDOLV0outabPsryE6XYXylNwgC4YPlT3XU1TaxL8F_XNZMD2E5HWR6bG4nNo3DYDTEym4_oV8SO9eftsF82-QOiRYJc/s320/P1040691.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5600654132711873842" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></span></b></b></p><p class="MsoNormal"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg941D1yTbaPPmVPycNfJ2Zvl_X6JJFSVR9ebJ5BW4zZ1sVAra-dbuhtvEvRfBL4g-Umkbads3lJDu8OJjpvCTIDHCLJCDYBfwAFY8SWZI_Efp8FaKOzc0_XDvrItdsv9czQQj6HLXKcs0/s1600/P1040693.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg941D1yTbaPPmVPycNfJ2Zvl_X6JJFSVR9ebJ5BW4zZ1sVAra-dbuhtvEvRfBL4g-Umkbads3lJDu8OJjpvCTIDHCLJCDYBfwAFY8SWZI_Efp8FaKOzc0_XDvrItdsv9czQQj6HLXKcs0/s320/P1040693.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5600654525129526578" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaRZY5Z-Gd8p4y6CO8UlRTMM3wGxCElF9ZFJlWkEdAVxjZGLJ2DmI_BMcNrmKxeLsrlpVMWbxu_SiS7lpLdHGvhid6HxbVVtTS0b0Nw1YaiNEsdilmE7cycL8VAAu61e8USoan5-LQPVE/s1600/P1040695.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaRZY5Z-Gd8p4y6CO8UlRTMM3wGxCElF9ZFJlWkEdAVxjZGLJ2DmI_BMcNrmKxeLsrlpVMWbxu_SiS7lpLdHGvhid6HxbVVtTS0b0Nw1YaiNEsdilmE7cycL8VAAu61e8USoan5-LQPVE/s320/P1040695.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5600654516925028290" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></b></p><p></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Head into the building, and aside from being crammed in with lots of loud tourists, many of whom are disrespecting the “No Photography” policy and prompting a whistle from the understaffed guard, there is a reverence to the space. The interior suffused with light and filled with still air gave the spot a holiness suitable for an emperor and his wife. Through jalli screens the tombs of the two were visible, lying eternally in the center of the main room. Again, I couldn’t help but think that the noise and illegally snapped photos destroyed the intended ambience of the tomb, but with the masses parading through daily, I suppose that is inevitable.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">I spent more time outside admiring the building and sitting in the warm spring air contemplating the whole beauty of the site from behind a row of flowers and bushes, but before I knew it, I had to move on to see the rest of Agra’s history before my train back to Delhi. I rejoined my driver who said we were off to the Agra Fort. But first, he said, we were going to see another of Agra’s famous sights. A note to fellow travelers: anytime a driver says something like that, it almost always means you are going shopping, and likely to a store where he will get a commission. That’s what happened to me. We ended up at a jewelry store where I was pressured into viewing stones that supposedly only come from the region around Agra. They are exceptionally beautiful in their color and the fact that when subjected to a single light, they throw a star across the whole stone. The jeweler tried to explain to me that the fact that the center of the star moved over the stone when he rotated it was because the “mica,” this mysterious fourth element inside, was moving within the rock. Wanting only to get on to seeing the real sights of Agra, I didn’t argue the point with him, but my training at Harvey Mudd had taught me much better than to believe this explanation (in my head, lessons on crystallography, refraction, etc. were running around, working out the true answer. I’d be happy to discuss with anyone interested).</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Finally getting a chance to excuse myself, I headed back to my driver, told him the disappointing news (for him) that I did not buy anything, and then we headed to the Agra Fort. This mighty sandstone edifice was once the seat of power for the Mughal rulers before the capital was shifted to Delhi. It still retains its regal look even despite centuries of minor decay. While not, in my opinion, as impressive as the Rajasthani forts because it is not as well preserved, it is still worth a visit in part for its views of the Taj. One whole side overlooks the Yamuna River and the Taj sitting elegantly on the bank, including the tower where Shah Jahan was imprisoned by his son for the last years of his life. For those unfamiliar with the history, not long after the Taj’s completion, Shah Jahan was deposed by his son (quite a violent race the Mughals were) and imprisoned in a tower in the Agra Fort. Here he lived out his days only able to gaze on his monument to his beloved without being able to visit her.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1wbRFrjg7v4IqNrkAuI93FaMJiNukg4Usilc9K4au1xMUnfpwVD54dhi1pAdXyXyKb30-zLj3CjwQH26wyoQM8h3HqSvLA2LP2yQ2tiFEBPEqQ7gpSi5Ctbfj2Thh7QTEXcd6bXwoXfA/s1600/P1040798.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1wbRFrjg7v4IqNrkAuI93FaMJiNukg4Usilc9K4au1xMUnfpwVD54dhi1pAdXyXyKb30-zLj3CjwQH26wyoQM8h3HqSvLA2LP2yQ2tiFEBPEqQ7gpSi5Ctbfj2Thh7QTEXcd6bXwoXfA/s320/P1040798.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5600654514599882626" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAG0wtxxpL9uIQwpjGFMGwbci7JzlMsmh_w3QMajbARhpmmZkrwNS0SeM7nHjZsAUSJ9vUAetpoYQj4dNhpgftFzU4EeM6-CN27_DUEUYYlh6uJyXvkJoMNOCTXDcjRZoUFYtjoeEFHvo/s1600/P1040799.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAG0wtxxpL9uIQwpjGFMGwbci7JzlMsmh_w3QMajbARhpmmZkrwNS0SeM7nHjZsAUSJ9vUAetpoYQj4dNhpgftFzU4EeM6-CN27_DUEUYYlh6uJyXvkJoMNOCTXDcjRZoUFYtjoeEFHvo/s320/P1040799.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5600654511339362626" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh51m3S1MWXW9SG2yLE23ABXd-WPtNZhc2ebsOyNpzO7LCXTZhx2eo_4i5R79pEOZYXScw8AYDvhscnTXc8Lr348A2CAO1QGoh8i5i-vlaTAWeCI0YR-Zl7FwN4BpdZr8BUGxcy9pQpTf8/s1600/P1040825.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh51m3S1MWXW9SG2yLE23ABXd-WPtNZhc2ebsOyNpzO7LCXTZhx2eo_4i5R79pEOZYXScw8AYDvhscnTXc8Lr348A2CAO1QGoh8i5i-vlaTAWeCI0YR-Zl7FwN4BpdZr8BUGxcy9pQpTf8/s320/P1040825.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5600654504825321250" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">I wandered through this impressive structure, or at least the part that is open to the public. A section is still used to house troops, and for obvious reasons I could not get in there. Yet after the Taj, it was not as magnificent, and soon I was back in the car to head to the “Baby Taj,” another Tomb, also in marble, for a court advisor named Itimad ud-Daulah that sits across the Yamuna from the masterwork. Yet once more, before arriving at this destination, I was off to see another masterpiece of Agra—this time a stone works. After being shown how the workers inlay precious stones to marble “just as their ancestors did when they worked on the Taj,” I was led into the sales room. A bit frustrated by the pressuring and pitches of the salesman (plus dubious about whether these workers received much if any of the sales money), I told him I was a poor student and thought I had escaped before being led into the cheaper goods room. Now, reservations and knowledge that I was being scammed aside, I did find the pieces beautiful and ended up buying a couple of small trinkets for loved ones and friends. So, then, how did I know I was being scammed this whole time? When I emerged with a bag from the store, I got a hug from my driver. Clearly my purchase meant he got some money too.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">After this, we were off again to the Baby Taj. Now in the late afternoon sun, the white marble and sandstone used to create this building were gorgeous in the orange light of the evening (made more orange by the industrial smog around Agra—I don’t entirely believe that the city is free of industry as the craftsmen tried to tell me in the shops). Though not as large or magnificent as its cousin across the river, this tomb has its own charm and is much more peaceful that its famous relative. I was able to sit and enjoy the building as it was meant to be—in quiet and with an atmosphere of peaceful reverence. Again, the interior of the building was clearly perfectly designed for the function. Light shone in through the doorways in shafts that created a diffuse light throughout and at times cast a spotlight on the tombs in the center—the main features of the domed center. It was a gorgeous effect and fitting for the afterlife of a famous and wealthy man.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs-BbCNZ2Q7jg5xoQ7hzeY1f1eE9w1VDjfYWf85oqH7LdiuajNi5FEoSgN-u58xpAq45PUWWsMJslP-fuvmpHbbUOCDSxCyDCC4nzBpbg2ThEl8DjG5zh2Q75B8WoC00ZoXzTUB3WVX88/s1600/P1040859.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs-BbCNZ2Q7jg5xoQ7hzeY1f1eE9w1VDjfYWf85oqH7LdiuajNi5FEoSgN-u58xpAq45PUWWsMJslP-fuvmpHbbUOCDSxCyDCC4nzBpbg2ThEl8DjG5zh2Q75B8WoC00ZoXzTUB3WVX88/s320/P1040859.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5600656201985015490" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM2eKSouGpi-TL0msXTdKu_o2Er-zBTa4LnHmWNVyAl0eNjuLbDsmwlmjuFuTbNZKWqOnISZxki031prNjxEawp4JMgE-aIVQ1LqE1ztAuD-rI3v5H1iVEuZRaV3rrRieYUZ9AePEKyMo/s1600/P1040871.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM2eKSouGpi-TL0msXTdKu_o2Er-zBTa4LnHmWNVyAl0eNjuLbDsmwlmjuFuTbNZKWqOnISZxki031prNjxEawp4JMgE-aIVQ1LqE1ztAuD-rI3v5H1iVEuZRaV3rrRieYUZ9AePEKyMo/s320/P1040871.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5600656198188597618" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">After some peace and running into a couple of Minnesotans, it was off to the station to end my day. I thanked my guide and headed back to Delhi for the end of my Agra trip. However, before I let you all go, a few more things. As you’ve been reading, perhaps you have been recalling some stories of the Taj from school days or common culture. I know I did while visiting. I remember my 10<sup>th</sup> grade World History teacher explaining that there was intended to be another Taj in black marble across the river to house the body of Shah Jahan but that it was never completed and then destroyed. I also recall being taught in school that the craftsmen lost their hands so they could never again make something so beautiful. If you go to India, you will hear these stories as well as a multitude of others including one I was told that the ceiling has a hole that lets in a small shaft of light and rain but that no one can find to seal up.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Well, sorry to spoil your fun, but according to all fact-checked sources, none of these three are true no matter what your guide may say. According to Lonely Planet (which typically is more accurate than Indian street guides) there is no archaeological evidence of a black Taj despite extensive excavations and no historical record or proof that the craftsmen were mutilated. Finally, there is no corroboration of the story of the hole in the ceiling, and visually there is no mysterious shaft of light. If someone has evidence to prove any of these wrong, feel free, but I just thought I’d share before I signed off. One other thing: for those literary types, the title of this post is not my invention, but rather the words of Bengali poet Rabindranath Tagore. I'm not quite so romantic or eloquent.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">One more thing before I sign off—the obligatory photos of me enjoying the sights. It’s been a while since I posted pictures of me enjoying these places about which I write. And to pre-empt the comments, yes my hair and beard are getting long, and as I write (three months later), they are even longer!</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8n1BYJ38rZ0gqYDASa90JHp4ncNzJMFWOaBn8FPakXTzjP9BYIfUKFWvM4oxBmkoh2uICtU1iZSIrh6gCb9CRUaYHuGFGJm3efTcwWG-gDhmYEFYuycz1XQv8UHQ1OdRl5kzPiM3-vFc/s1600/P1040661.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8n1BYJ38rZ0gqYDASa90JHp4ncNzJMFWOaBn8FPakXTzjP9BYIfUKFWvM4oxBmkoh2uICtU1iZSIrh6gCb9CRUaYHuGFGJm3efTcwWG-gDhmYEFYuycz1XQv8UHQ1OdRl5kzPiM3-vFc/s320/P1040661.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5600656189768242146" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRnO7L3HXm0nweWTv9FSeSha23OCBJXD-k13DOQzM8LVTvAkjGPcrw-K_q61dktAwJNWWSIR-s-FG1Zv-xfn_hlPgvg2kAW682bRe1k43STg-7T4-Nap-mjJL61gRZWEdqqgu-vaJJlpE/s1600/P1040820.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRnO7L3HXm0nweWTv9FSeSha23OCBJXD-k13DOQzM8LVTvAkjGPcrw-K_q61dktAwJNWWSIR-s-FG1Zv-xfn_hlPgvg2kAW682bRe1k43STg-7T4-Nap-mjJL61gRZWEdqqgu-vaJJlpE/s320/P1040820.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5600656190434358962" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix6PlC787aHESY6K0DhZSEuj1XF6X2ItfBBJkDX80oa7_7youHZx1wA73TsTxA3cdJewmxjkkisrzpIdBRg5cbi_ZkyYL5dbFEXvqXmUMrxuV9WBiQqW8vfgH3PTMDMLO0c2pp1qh_400/s1600/P1040869.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix6PlC787aHESY6K0DhZSEuj1XF6X2ItfBBJkDX80oa7_7youHZx1wA73TsTxA3cdJewmxjkkisrzpIdBRg5cbi_ZkyYL5dbFEXvqXmUMrxuV9WBiQqW8vfgH3PTMDMLO0c2pp1qh_400/s320/P1040869.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5600656185226854530" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></span></b></p>Rob Besthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09463964785697202357noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9070652898233554429.post-53551329818031183542011-04-20T13:50:00.000-07:002011-04-20T13:56:55.466-07:00Would You Want to Live Underground?<div style="text-align: left;">I want to depart for today from India in my blog for a brief moment. In my travels I’ve hit two of four BRIC countries already and am thinking that I may try to hit a third (Brazil) as well, though no plans have been made. But I never considered the “R” in that acronym despite its importance as a world power. That was not for lack of interest in the Russian culture or history (on the contrary, I would relish the opportunity to visit St. Petersburg, Moscow, or the Great Gate of Kiev <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2rVci4h8TkM">so immortalized in classical music</a>, or rather where they were meant to be. I was also very jealous of a fellow traveler I met who had taken a trip across the trans-Siberian railway). No, in fact my lack of interest in Russia was merely that I had not found a viable eco-city site to study. Well I stumbled today across <a href="http://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/architecture/a-warren-of-streets-ecocity-2020-2149826.html">this article on a plan unveiled in November of last year to build a subterranean Eco-City in an abandoned coal mine under the ice in Siberia</a>. The article doesn’t give a lot of detail, but it does offer an interesting concept.</div> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-weight: normal; "><img src="http://www.independent.co.uk/multimedia/dynamic/00508/russia_508606t.jpg" border="0" alt="" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 177px; " /></span></b></p><div>The article says that they will pipe sunlight into the development from the surface (assuming the pipes are free from snow), but it still makes me question whether that is a good way to live. I don’t know that I personally would want to live underground, void of natural light, air, and views for my life, no matter how much science fiction has glorified or predicted the necessity of the idea. However, on the other hand, in a place like Siberia where heating is vastly important to living, burying the civilization in the relatively warmer ground where it is not affected by the weather patterns outside would make it easier to efficiently heat the civilization on a large scale. Furthermore, with the number of abandoned mines worldwide, this could provide a model for the future in several nations. I guess there are tradeoffs in every situation, but to me the overarching question is simply “Would you want to live underground?”</div>Rob Besthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09463964785697202357noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9070652898233554429.post-5766460839451105172011-04-19T14:13:00.000-07:002011-04-19T14:24:49.161-07:00What Does a Sustainable Indian Building Look Like?<p class="MsoNormal">I have been going chronologically in terms of my adventures with some of these supplementary posts on my actual work, and today I’m continuing that but stepping out of the chronological a bit in terms of the meetings on which I draw for this post. As I am writing this much later than <a href="http://robswatsonadventure.blogspot.com/2011/04/why-dont-we-build-them-that-way-anymore.html">my trips to Jaisalmer and Jodhpur</a> (which some of you may have read about last time) , I can draw on more opinions and make this post of greater value intellectually. And the reason for doing this now is that hopefully my comments about historic buildings in<a href="http://robswatsonadventure.blogspot.com/2011/04/why-dont-we-build-them-that-way-anymore.html"> my last post on Jaisalmer and Jodhpur</a> raised some issues about what sustainability looks like in the Indian context, or rather whether the current trajectory needs to be reconsidered. In this post I want to dissect this a little bit more thoroughly, highlighting what I see as the themes in the small but growing sustainability movement within India.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">One of the first meetings I had, with a member of <a href="http://www.teriin.org/index.php">The Energy and Resources Institute</a> (TERI, which, for the climate change watchers out there is the Institute from which <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rajendra_K._Pachauri">Dr. R.K. Pachauri</a>, head of the <a href="http://www.ipcc.ch/">IPCC</a> hails) exposed the first trend that became very obvious throughout my time in India—developers, professionals, and building owners in India have an obsession with certifications. This means that there are a number of professionals who seek our certification under LEED, GRIHA, or other such schemes (if you don’t know these acronyms, keep reading) and become certified professionals capable of certifying green buildings and projects. On the surface this sounds very good, yet the problem is that this has led to a proliferation of consultancies in a world where developers too are clamoring for certification. As my friend David Wittenberg is fond of saying, all it takes to be a consultant is a sign on your door that reads “Consultant,” and in the sustainability movement in India this is certainly true. Differentiating the real, knowledgeable companies from those out to capitalize on the green agenda is tough, especially for the numerous small to mid-size developers who do not know the field and who lack the money to pay for some of the larger more established firms.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The result is a collection of projects that claim to be targeting certification under LEED or one of the other schemes but then fail to achieve the targets. Or, perhaps more common, many projects advertise “green” features, only to then eliminate many of these in value engineering later on. It is amazing tow walk down the metro stations and look at the number of advertisements for new, “green” housing and then actually follow it up with some online research. You find that “green” often means a higher window to wall ratio, central air-conditioning with a diesel power back-up, and a garden with the building. Can you find the green features? Well, if you go by color, yes the last one is, but if you go by performance, in Delhi’s climate none of this are (the last could be, but the images inevitably show grass and European shrubs, not native plants). But you can bet that in each of these projects there is a sustainability consultant involved who made a buck or two.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Now before it sounds like I am discrediting out of hand India’s green movement, I want to quickly say that there are some excellent consultancies and projects that really are very sustainable. Most of my information on green buildings in India comes from a dedicated group of professionals, all of whom know one another, who practice excellent design and very adeptly integrate passive techniques with modern technology. One need to look no further than the work of <a href="http://www.ashoklallarchitects.com/">Ashok Lall</a>, <a href="http://www.space-design.com/partners.aspx">Vinod Gupta</a>, <a href="http://www.sanjayprakash.co.in/">Sanjay Prakash</a>, <a href="http://www.architectsda.com/aashis_karode.html">Ashish Karode</a>, and <a href="http://www.abrdarchitects.com/">Rajesh Dongre</a> to know that there are environmentally-sensitive architects practicing in India whose work rivals that of any other such designer worldwide. On the consultancy end, <a href="http://www.spectralservices.net/">Spectral Services</a> and <a href="http://www.godrej.com/godrej/godrej/index.aspx?id=1">Godrej</a> make up the two largest consulting firms with other smaller players such as <a href="http://www.greenbuildingsindia.com/">Green Buildings India</a> and <a href="http://www.kalpakrit.com/">Kalpakrit</a> entering the field with high levels of competency. The belief that India is moving toward a greener standard for buildings is also supported by the staggering growth in registered floor space under both the LEED and GRIHA sustainable building rating schemes (again, keep reading and I promise I will explain these acronyms).</p> <p class="MsoNormal">However, for those who have taken a glance at the websites linked to the names above, you may already have a sense of the second trend in sustainable projects in India—they are typically of a relatively small size. With some exceptions of government, educational, and a few IT campuses (IT giant <a href="http://www.infosys.com/pages/index.aspx">Infosys</a> is incredibly progressive in its sustainability measures), most projects executed by the architects above are fairly small in size. They typically perhaps are a single institutional or commercial building, an office fit out, or a single home. Developers have yet to jump on the green bandwagon in a meaningful way; it has been jargon only that they have adopted. The reason for this was given to me in another meeting with one of the architects above. He said that, to put it bluntly, architects in India are often treated as “glorified draughtsmen,” and then paid as such. What this means is that on the whole, spending on the architect’s portion of the project is very low relative to the entire project budget. For those familiar with the field or who have been reading my blogs, you will know that this stage of the project where you have the most potential to integrate good, sustainable design is in the architect’s hands. Yet without a large budget, architects cannot make effective sustainable choices. It is always a fight to convince developers who do not yet understand that spending a bit more up front will save in construction and engineering later in the project. They instead go by previous projects where they limited the architect’s portion of the project and were able to sell the building for profit. This marginalization of architects deters others from engaging meaningfully in sustainability within their practices since it is a costly venture, and furthermore encourages them to hand projects to recent graduates who are paid less (“green” architects, if you will, but not the right “green”).</p> <p class="MsoNormal">This latter point leads into another discouraging note on Indian sustainability but this one instead with a positive trend. Current education in Indian architectural schools does not encourage sustainability in the curriculum. Students may be introduced to simulation programs and the basics of sustainable design, but on the whole they do not get a comprehensive introduction and do not graduate with an idea that this should be integrated into the process of design throughout. Now when you think that these are the ones doing most of the designing in India you see why it is a discouraging trend. Furthermore, the sense of academic research is very different in India. Independent research is unheard of among students, graduate level work does not have the same support or culture of providing new concepts for industry as it does in America and Europe, and worst of all, I am led to believe that plagiarism is common and ignored by professors in general. One commenter even said that students graduate without reading the building codes—they read instead whatever the shortest summary is when they Google “Indian Building Codes.” Given this, you are probably wondering how I can say this has an encouraging trend. Well, the good news is that this is changing. A growing number of architects are going abroad to be trained and becoming inculcated in the sustainability and research traditions of the US and Europe. They in turn are introducing this to universities in India as visiting professors or carrying it on in their practices, thereby training young architects in new modes of design. Furthermore, under pressure from the Western world, India’s own universities are developing new focuses on research and are rapidly trying to become more modern in their methods. It doesn’t come easy to Indian schools, but it is happening. In architecture, this is indicated by a growing number of MA programs in architecture and landscape architecture.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Education and research at the university level is one thing, but with the current lack of green buildings in India, it is clear that education at the professional and everyday social levels are also needed. And frankly, this is one point that gives me some hope but also provokes an interesting question. Let me explain what I mean. I attended several conferences the week after I returned from Jodhpur and Jaisalmer and at all of them had the pleasure of listening to several ministers discuss the programs in place for advancing energy efficiency and sustainability in India. By all accounts, it seems that there is a firm foundation in place for educating professionals and citizens about sustainable building and energy efficiency. There are several nationally sponsored programs to train engineers and architects, others at the levels of cities and states, and campaigns to raise awareness about the availability of energy efficient appliances and fixtures. In addition, in the professional community, incentives for using the GRIHA green building rating system are meant to encourage professionals to become trained and implement the system. This is definitely positive.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">What is interesting is that either through differences of opinion on what defines sustainability or because of the tradition of large bureaucracy in India, the green building movement in the country is somewhat fragmented. I don’t necessarily identify this as a positive or negative trend, but rather just as a trend since I’m not sure what to make of it. But what became clear at these conferences is that there are two very strong green building movements—LEED and GRIHA—for new buildings and one—the BEE 5 Star System—for existing buildings. For those familiar with the US context, you may have heard of <a href="http://www.usgbc.org/DisplayPage.aspx?CategoryID=19">LEED, or Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design</a>. Originally developed by the US Green Building Council, it spread to India through an agreement with the fledgling Indian Green Building Council several years back. This allowed USGBC to retain some authority over the program while letting the Indian leaders adapt it to their context. Simultaneously, TERI, the institute I have previously mentioned, developed its own rating known as <a href="http://www.grihaindia.org/">GRIHA, or Green Rating for Integrated Habitat Assessment</a>. The latter has now been adopted by the Ministry of New and Renewable Energy as the official rating system of the Government of India.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The challenge here is that there are strong proponents in favor of each rating system and no sign of a merger of the systems in the near future. Proponents of LEED back its international basis and reliance on codes as a baseline that are used in countries worldwide. Opponents criticize the system as being based on an American building model where technologies such as air conditioning are expected in any constructed space. This was the feeling of the group that developed GRIHA at least. They were of the opinion that India needed a system that was just as applicable to non-air conditioned spaces as to air conditioned buildings; GRIHA was seen as the means of achieving this. The problem is that now India has two systems that rate buildings in the same categories albeit with slightly different metrics, are both vying for market share in India, and both of which claim to be applicable to the Indian market. LEED currently has the upper hand in terms of built space simply because it is better established, but GRIHA now has a government mandate for all new national government spaces. There seemed to be a feeling among architects that GRIHA is better developed for Indian buildings, but at the same time most acknowledged that the international label of LEED was still preferred by some clients. The concern from my perspective is that having two rating systems could lead developers to be unsure of which to pursue and in the end either try to over commit and due both only to fall short or to do neither until one emerges as the winner. On the other hand, with the amount of development occurring in India, there is room in my opinion for both systems to coexist, have their market share, and advance thinking on sustainable buildings. This is the case now and may be for a while, but we will see how it plays out.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Personally, I rather like the GRIHA system because the thinking behind its formation highlights the trend in India which gives me the most hope for sustainable buildings in the nation. This is the penchant for looking backwards among the (few) academicians studying this subject in order to determine what happens going forward. In my post about Jaisalmer and Jodhpur I referred frequently to the sustainable “technologies” that these ancient structures incorporated and developed. Whereas LEED typically pulls from a baseline of modern buildings, GRIHA was developed by researchers who really considered what buildings were like in the past and how they incorporated passive design by region to achieve low energy, comfortable buildings. This trend is not just limited to the researchers at TERI either. Several of the independent architects with whom I met talked about performing their own research projects to study how buildings and landscapes in the past contributed to the environmental and comfort performance of the space. They studied the organization of streets, their relation to landforms, the windows and screens of the buildings, and the massing to gain insights on what a modern low energy building should be. At the <a href="http://www.cbri.org.in/index1.htm">Central Building Research Institute</a> (CBRI) in Roorkee, there was a whole research team devoted to learning about traditional materials and design techniques for low-cost, high-performance housing. Some of the models they had on site were truly incredible as well. It was refreshing to see science giving credence to traditional building techniques, explaining why they work, and then incorporating those ideas into new forms of architecture and design.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">This habit of looking back to go forward is something that was missing in China and was only present in Abu Dhabi through Masdar (which was initiated by a British architect, Norman Foster). These two countries were so absorbed in the Western model of development, they had forgotten to consider their own heritage beyond the aesthetics (and in China, usually not even that much). The result is buildings that do not perform adequately in the climate, are not responsive to seasonal changes, and are generally uncomfortable to live in unless you have a lot of technology to stabilize the internal environment. For this reason, I have a lot of hope for India. It is partly out of necessity with such a large impoverished population that they are looking at traditional techniques and low-cost building, but it is more because of the importance of the past in the culture that this is an integral part of the sustainable building movement. It surprised me a bit to find this to be the case, but as I have said refreshing. There truly is a lot that can be learned from these historic designs—years of wisdom and refining of knowledge went into making some of what still stands today. To dismiss that and adopt wholesale what is imported from the US or Europe is a mistake. Therefore, I think that even though the Indian sustainability movement is small now and has some other discouraging trends, if it retains its view to the past, I anticipate a strong growth in its development in the coming years. More importantly, it will be an Indian style green building movement that will cater to the peculiarities of the Indian market and therefore be self-sustaining and hopefully have fewer of the resource issues that are being predicted to plague China in the coming years.</p>Rob Besthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09463964785697202357noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9070652898233554429.post-47656228287426159452011-04-14T16:31:00.000-07:002011-04-14T16:53:09.978-07:00Why Don’t We Build Them That Way Anymore?<div style="text-align: left;">My third weekend excursion from Delhi changed direction from my previous two. Whereas in my visits to <a href="http://robswatsonadventure.blogspot.com/2011/03/of-mice-and-monkeys.html">Chandigarh</a> and <a href="http://robswatsonadventure.blogspot.com/2011/03/land-of-religion.html">Amritsar</a>, I had been carried up north, I now reversed course and went south into the state of Rajasthan—the desert state of India. Here, camels roam, kingdoms of sandstone rise from plains of sand, and, hard as it is to imagine in a country whose worst disasters can be monsoons, life without water is the norm. Though there are many famous and beautiful cities in Rajasthan, this trip carried me to just two of them: Jaisalmer and Jodhpur.</div> <p class="MsoNormal">My trip started on a Saturday evening as I boarded the sleeper train for Jaisalmer. I wasn’t too sure what to expect as I’d only ridden in the coach cars previously. Well, it turns out that China still has India beat on train travel. In China, the lowest sleeper class was fitted with 6 beds complete with sheets and pillow in each separated compartment (meaning each had a door). In India, the lowest sleeper class meant there were still six beds, but no sheet and no door. What’s more, people who were only traveling short distances bought tickets that allowed them to come sit on the lower beds with sleeper passengers until their destinations. For me with a lower berth ticket, that meant that I could not easily go to sleep when I wanted due to extra people beyond just those 6 in our little train compartment sitting, eating, playing cards, and generally hanging out on my bed.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">When finally these extra passengers departed, I figured I could stretch out, claim my bed, and get some shut eye. That I did, but due to the cold, soon found myself curled up in a ball just to keep warm (it turns out the Rajasthani desert in winter chills at night, and when the window on the train doesn’t properly close, it gets frigid). Well, on about 3 am I woke up due to some noise or bump in the train’s motion and found that another intermediate passenger had decided that since I wasn’t using my full bed, that gave him right to use the empty space. He too was curled up at the foot of my berth meaning that I could not stretch out had I wanted to (which I did). All I could do was think that this was India—in a country so full of people without the more modern trains of China, this was the result. Who could blame him for taking the extra space to try and get some sleep? It inconvenienced me and I felt a bit put off since I had paid more for the right to that space, but I just let it go and figured that this was India and I had to understand that this was normal.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The next time I woke up my bedmate was gone, and before I knew it, daybreak had arrived and I could no longer sleep with the sunlight streaming through the open windows. Though when night had fallen I was still in the greenery around Delhi, I now found myself in a barren landscape with hills of rock and sand only peppered with the occasional bush and weed. A few hours later, the scenery was still the same as we steamed into Jaisalmer station in full view of the magnificent Jaisalmer Fort.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-weight: normal; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzaqi7i71SFVhm2BL-BTNZgpJXzknLJs-xbxc4R4LsrlGWcczTm9wTk-k-42Pdyh-5b7jn5npo2hb8cWuOh9piBxHjHv35Mzp6s5X-JuGX1oJRBDN9Wt3W5TWjz-IQjRGwalU6lSo8-0o/s320/P1030869.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595586448415953378" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">A short walk later, I found myself in the confines of the old city of Jaisalmer facing a network of narrow roads bordered by sandstone buildings several storeys high that nearly toppled over into the streets. Wires crisscrossed above mimicking the chaos of the street below as rickshaws, cyclists, and pedestrians struggled to navigate through the shop fronts encroaching on the paths and the hawkers peddling their wares. With only a couple of wrong turns, I soon reached the base of the Fort itself, a towering, bulbous structure built right out of the hill in the middle of the city. Up a long, twisting path (presumably to prevent the enemy forces from making a direct charge at the gates) lay the inner city, replete with temples, the palace, and more shops.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5h8lfRPZaYt5N870JMTfuRa_ggyKUisGka6ar8ABIfLSAAQLS3MO2XqY_ATt-FMsu8B2iCMqt9USSM6CGkOeWf32qo7QwXELaA8-y8O1Qaw2ZQ6xmJ87ijnX3NyUnsUoVITzR8tX_O-U/s1600/P1030887.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5h8lfRPZaYt5N870JMTfuRa_ggyKUisGka6ar8ABIfLSAAQLS3MO2XqY_ATt-FMsu8B2iCMqt9USSM6CGkOeWf32qo7QwXELaA8-y8O1Qaw2ZQ6xmJ87ijnX3NyUnsUoVITzR8tX_O-U/s320/P1030887.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595586441116096338" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4aTQYhkKcgy0xMdxiv5XadE6O1S2Kv4Ixm2Yx4fHO_GupwWTC2KDNxY5BeMgXhHIHhxS8FhkDHI4C5TFCsbz5KskaGyoubuXiVK0DXbe6LX7D9aLgbJR7qhyphenhyphenN3J_lGBoMxviGeHCnYzI/s1600/P1030889.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4aTQYhkKcgy0xMdxiv5XadE6O1S2Kv4Ixm2Yx4fHO_GupwWTC2KDNxY5BeMgXhHIHhxS8FhkDHI4C5TFCsbz5KskaGyoubuXiVK0DXbe6LX7D9aLgbJR7qhyphenhyphenN3J_lGBoMxviGeHCnYzI/s320/P1030889.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595586434951077266" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6kH-jmzUlzq2VS5FkwPiVw4d0rd6cTWPoL2tTAETs7W8GTUKtpL96utVn9VDmQtMpcJomWGhkD9LWRsGSCzOYAAyLbmuY8_ldeGTMUe48FoMv_aeGQQBzAwCgfMa1nV1hByZ40u7VWpw/s1600/P1030894.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6kH-jmzUlzq2VS5FkwPiVw4d0rd6cTWPoL2tTAETs7W8GTUKtpL96utVn9VDmQtMpcJomWGhkD9LWRsGSCzOYAAyLbmuY8_ldeGTMUe48FoMv_aeGQQBzAwCgfMa1nV1hByZ40u7VWpw/s320/P1030894.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595586429972564850" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYGzq_GoeWcXjkOXEgSR6lgib7Iih6QK1M4_eBOGCtn4tpw2R_z2EypAbwKtKJGBMulq5OWDt4jN5Y2Jx3maIISF24WpUgcv60AjxxX7t_m2GcVuIGS97xwVlJQHOvEsskMr9PhKLiV8M/s1600/P1030939.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYGzq_GoeWcXjkOXEgSR6lgib7Iih6QK1M4_eBOGCtn4tpw2R_z2EypAbwKtKJGBMulq5OWDt4jN5Y2Jx3maIISF24WpUgcv60AjxxX7t_m2GcVuIGS97xwVlJQHOvEsskMr9PhKLiV8M/s320/P1030939.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595586428259361426" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">Here I wandered through the ancient city and toured the palace. What amazed me throughout was how vibrant this city was in a place where on first glance life should not be able to survive. On the palace tour, they make a point of showing off the rainwater collection system—a network of pipes, tanks, and sloped floors that ensures no drop of water is lost during the limited rains. The reason is that this was the only source of water for the town during the year. Though there may have been little water, there was certainly plenty of stone, and this allowed the ruling family to build a grand palace and multiple temples throughout the city. All made of a golden sandstone, the buildings revealed gorgeous details and attention to detail that often seems lost in modern buildings, especially in the hectic streets of Delhi. Certainly this is not the common man’s architecture, but it clearly was different from anything we see today in its attention to detail and style.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">After touring the palace, I went winding through the old city to marvel at the temples buried in the seemingly incomprehensible network of alleys. Even on the warm day, these alleys were kept cool by the tall structures looming above and the mass of stone to either side. I thoroughly enjoyed this maze of streets as I walked. You saw life happening around every corner—here a woman sat with her baby, chatting with the neighbors in the adjacent doorway. There, some men sat talking over an afternoon chai while waiting for unsuspecting tourists to browse at the nearby shops. The only downside was the lack of public space—I happened upon three kids practicing cricket in one alley in a manner that blocked all traffic. I had to wait for the bowler to notice before I could safely pass. These old walkways were alive, now built around the tourist economy, but you could imagine that once they buzzed with a royal atmosphere, selling not to travelers but to courtiers, merchants, and visitors from nearby kingdoms. This seemed a city preserved in time.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDpxXnQZ7jVMCEsSbnFSci5ibfjdxDN8AUCOj8P7vzixXFQmGnonpg6ofp_ekCwquKDYL4y7vOI9fpUHt-QXqN6Ka6eMqqBFe9n_ABKnIHWT6jMIJW_glMawvM2YufgBipd5H9_FqGNxQ/s1600/P1040009.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDpxXnQZ7jVMCEsSbnFSci5ibfjdxDN8AUCOj8P7vzixXFQmGnonpg6ofp_ekCwquKDYL4y7vOI9fpUHt-QXqN6Ka6eMqqBFe9n_ABKnIHWT6jMIJW_glMawvM2YufgBipd5H9_FqGNxQ/s320/P1040009.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595586894561019186" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlKGarowxbGgkOEZmmB5odPdW7jwhOWx6_lJBpB0n60LphEVbPQ3Qfcnuf2oCHEk5gg7tTdUYRRl33LGCFlcvw2nhjtKnxPXDkp5rwMU5TBxRfQVtUu2wQtV5P1hBq8td8bFwSVL2xBiQ/s1600/P1040011.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlKGarowxbGgkOEZmmB5odPdW7jwhOWx6_lJBpB0n60LphEVbPQ3Qfcnuf2oCHEk5gg7tTdUYRRl33LGCFlcvw2nhjtKnxPXDkp5rwMU5TBxRfQVtUu2wQtV5P1hBq8td8bFwSVL2xBiQ/s320/P1040011.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595586896682917778" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNMu11qqdmxGAF9PVeFav-BNduZODOrBYnKRutSuqx0HElKZRHAoJPdBWAUJZVFN9uedU93JZ8GGkmIwZAfTp7R3dKdLBBKANg5SzqgC5j8ffhhbn65Jy4xxowjYLDTamrsCL_Hat8Z6Q/s1600/P1040022.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNMu11qqdmxGAF9PVeFav-BNduZODOrBYnKRutSuqx0HElKZRHAoJPdBWAUJZVFN9uedU93JZ8GGkmIwZAfTp7R3dKdLBBKANg5SzqgC5j8ffhhbn65Jy4xxowjYLDTamrsCL_Hat8Z6Q/s320/P1040022.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595586889385831090" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">In the afternoon I headed back down the winding gate to the main part of the city in search of the old houses of Jaisalmer—the ornately decorated havelis. In the first, I was lucky enough to be given a tour guide with my ticket who explained the subtleties of the construction. These houses, several hundred years old, have stood the test of time through their solid sandstone construction. Without any water for mortar, the bricks were made in massive sizes and laid in interlocking double layers such that water could not get in and the weight of the blocks would seal any cracks between bricks. Wood and iron were used to help lynch blocks together when needed, but stone was preferred as it not only kept the house standing but kept the heat out. Perhaps they could not have described it themselves, but with the desert temperatures that oscillate between high and cold throughout a 24-hour period, the stone they used provided a wonderful thermal mass for moderating the temperature within the haveli. This was complemented by windows that could be opened in the main rooms to allow cross breezes, while on hot days, light was provided only through small windows in the upper reaches of the walls. Looking around I was in awe at the amount of ingenious building I was seeing, and all without a single energy simulation to advise on how best to reduce the energy consumption!</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieL5jgyDHbcGMAVKLNV1xjyxQfHjlNxBrVxrgr-6s873q_uNL0tMBR0uakXm8EFluID-BY4_ADCXJ900S_AIwT_yncsAc356CFIWRxtvjg-Y5QPgjaprqiZj5kjPmNTqabf-9BZ5JVH5g/s1600/P1040044.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieL5jgyDHbcGMAVKLNV1xjyxQfHjlNxBrVxrgr-6s873q_uNL0tMBR0uakXm8EFluID-BY4_ADCXJ900S_AIwT_yncsAc356CFIWRxtvjg-Y5QPgjaprqiZj5kjPmNTqabf-9BZ5JVH5g/s320/P1040044.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595586885217322786" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></span></b></p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiLLfAg0E4OrlwtZ5cL_hfY4UDflG-Hudb-UpDHCr2V1F3n46uox9UbXTQTVTOzaXdK27hdJhs-d8BHjbn2yPkjV3WPcr5qhc4XyixOuB1y47WOyykTLRh0gOXKCVdrPv1ohoZqf-0FAY/s1600/P1040055.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiLLfAg0E4OrlwtZ5cL_hfY4UDflG-Hudb-UpDHCr2V1F3n46uox9UbXTQTVTOzaXdK27hdJhs-d8BHjbn2yPkjV3WPcr5qhc4XyixOuB1y47WOyykTLRh0gOXKCVdrPv1ohoZqf-0FAY/s320/P1040055.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595586888027433810" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGinrFdk2Z3YAvEev17-8eT704kFSXTIS_tRyFQBZR5t3NPnliDLzvxS0JGJI-Xft75Ysc3g2490ocOKyOCSTi1CVbfqMT0_wGaSgXq6Zx3rnkQ4qjp2LTsb2TT70gvL2kO44MQOlwJ3g/s320/P1040066.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595588153545565602" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal">Thinking about Jaisalmer, it really justifies the trend that seems to be present among environmentally sensitive architects with whom I met on my stay in India toward looking backward in time for solutions to today’s challenges of creating sustainable structures. With the varying climates of India (of which Jaisalmer represents one), a lot can be learned by delving into the history of the people in each climate to see how they adapted. Here was a building made with no water, locally quarried stone, and no electricity or air conditioning that was perfectly responsive to its environment, allowed a degree of climate control, provided natural light, and was solid enough to stand up to hundreds of years of weathering. Imagine now a glass building, the sad trend in new construction outside of Delhi, in this same environment. There would be no way to keep out the heat on the blazing hot days or trap the cool air of the nights for later!</p> <p class="MsoNormal">It left me wondering what happened between this haveli and now that so much knowledge seems to have been lost. About a week ago, I found a quote online that put this perfectly. Attributed to Marie Antoinette, it reads “There is nothing new except what has been forgotten.”<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"> </b>Here was a perfect example of how the climate sensitivity that took decades or centuries to develop and perfect through trial and error has been bred out of buildings because it does not involve new technology or styles. Now I am not necessarily advocating that all of Jaisalmer’s new buildings immediately replicate these havelis, but they should provide a starting point for considering construction and design in this environment. Rather than just building to international appearances, architects should spend a little more time trying to understand and replicate these forms. Why use jali screens, for example (decorative clay window treatments)? And why build in stone and not glass? These questions need to be considered before the initial form of a building is set. Some may argue that you cannot build traditionally and still come up with a modern-looking building, but there are many counterexamples to this. If you set the materials in your mind first, the creativity of the artist in the architect will find a way to use them in a beautiful and modern pattern. It is only if they design first thinking of glass and then switch to making it stone that you may end up with a monstrosity that pleases no one, and frankly probably will not perform well either.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Another reason why it is not feasible to all of a sudden start building more havelis is that they were traditionally houses of the wealthy and therefore covered in ornamental decorations that were expensive, individually commissioned pieces of art. Walking through was a wonderful introduction to the artisanry of Rajasthan—as I mentioned before, the beautifully detailed sandstone ornaments, mirrored ceilings and walls, and finely sculpted and painted tiles provided breathtaking beauty within these homes. More than just being comfortable, these estates were palatial and decadent—perhaps fitting for a trader or a chief minister, but not feasible for the common man.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsywrJQ5pk_BjQk5HKH-dHTqXRAYiMSBlaTAx18tIgrJrFXv1SFyVamNi4ITQGyhxBbG_Q1Mn7tGOmiTHUtctvQ1AzVS4WRkiNIXdtX5I9Fw2yjVMEzrwhmQjGC2XeP1Hf1XoQNliKYVg/s1600/P1040070.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsywrJQ5pk_BjQk5HKH-dHTqXRAYiMSBlaTAx18tIgrJrFXv1SFyVamNi4ITQGyhxBbG_Q1Mn7tGOmiTHUtctvQ1AzVS4WRkiNIXdtX5I9Fw2yjVMEzrwhmQjGC2XeP1Hf1XoQNliKYVg/s320/P1040070.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595588148257328802" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAKUuZ2qqC-mzF0CiwdTBhyphenhyphenN2OzTPtYV4ZOf7dhk3hfWGzsQltMnBF8e-8zf4oe2cO8Bq9lyhsr10FzoXisYEQV_zDfpUiqV72yAJepIzzh_CDJv0Pztchl90_7LC1ySsc9gHR7AH10tc/s1600/P1040073.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAKUuZ2qqC-mzF0CiwdTBhyphenhyphenN2OzTPtYV4ZOf7dhk3hfWGzsQltMnBF8e-8zf4oe2cO8Bq9lyhsr10FzoXisYEQV_zDfpUiqV72yAJepIzzh_CDJv0Pztchl90_7LC1ySsc9gHR7AH10tc/s320/P1040073.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595588151427715714" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAIR0FRf0DkTgyCNQ7UQ3FuJZQ46b3R4oMDzjiPtwp5PeNf7V7mLv_YQxvtXN18eKtxU7pxtfBmsz0YPFPZJlnGxAye2rtgdNiMFaobVIiyW3maRvL_fn6o-UsM0dKV9HZob-UWpP7CgI/s1600/P1040087.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAIR0FRf0DkTgyCNQ7UQ3FuJZQ46b3R4oMDzjiPtwp5PeNf7V7mLv_YQxvtXN18eKtxU7pxtfBmsz0YPFPZJlnGxAye2rtgdNiMFaobVIiyW3maRvL_fn6o-UsM0dKV9HZob-UWpP7CgI/s320/P1040087.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595588145704126546" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtH7C5uI3LDp1KtGZTf7O7kb6DpIhff8Gg55gqNtGLE2lx5zGVLGGDnKkNi72Qqcu-hWVIiFKV6xwfrXNUh1bnNYFxegXA8WwHbCodukaEG3C8eBe6tzhM31cBpXptra0KIllVWoxSiEA/s1600/P1040099.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtH7C5uI3LDp1KtGZTf7O7kb6DpIhff8Gg55gqNtGLE2lx5zGVLGGDnKkNi72Qqcu-hWVIiFKV6xwfrXNUh1bnNYFxegXA8WwHbCodukaEG3C8eBe6tzhM31cBpXptra0KIllVWoxSiEA/s320/P1040099.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595588140359241586" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">As I finished my haveli tours and the day fell on Jaisalmer, I caught a glimpse of the setting sun from the roof of one of these palaces.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>With the orange rays illuminating the sky, the golden fort blazed richly above the romantic clutter of houses at its feet. Picturesque in every way, from here the life and the woes of the city people below fell away in a beautiful, honey-colored vista that will remain in my mind forever.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-weight: normal; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc9sYdJI0tE1UbnamTH5WynbQtXhXpCPLvBo5-V842iZeYqTBH3LBxUqeHN1RG2JBGnL05jQW7CRDS7RdgWYn5xVOT9RcG4GOoqx66lbZkJFYl8rItREmsyouvAKbhSlCBwr5TLnax0Kc/s320/Panorama+3.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595588642587104482" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 164px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">As I made my way through the town for dinner, I happened across another memorable sight, this time organized by a tour group I just happened to fall in line behind. The guide explained that in this village had lived the Guinness world record holder for the longest moustache ever. Though he no longer lived, his son had taken up the family legacy and was working toward the new record. For the tour, he was happy to show off his progress.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-weight: normal; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_Km11oWTN4km0bBWjlF3_ImhQfZlXN_PL2x73NDSo1-f8FGbHi_ExFLGicliR33yB0FDCio1ghb5YrPTyYXdVpq-sjQArSkZRtjnukMKE1H7HiLG1sfJ4ceETeoOoICAwNUPgHFem6-U/s320/P1040068.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595588637920057970" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">After this amusing diversion, I wound my way to a rooftop restaurant looking out over the fort. With a fresh lime soda in hand, I ordered up a big non-veg thali, a traditional plate of various dishes—a sampler, if you will, of Jaisalmer cuisine. Here, I experienced firsthand another sustainable feature of the city’s history. As was explained to me by a member of The Energy and Resources Institute (TERI) in Delhi, India’s culture evolved in every way in response to the seasons. Festivals, such as Holi, were designed to both celebrate the seasons and acclimate participants to the change in weather from winter to summer. Because of the different climates, these festivals varied in recognition and celebration. Food as well evolved differently in response to climate. In Rajasthan, where I now sat eating my thali, the lack of water led to a greater use of buttermilk and cream within dishes. Buttermilk too was the traditional drink with meals, and moist seasoned meats were also the norm to help provide succulent treats. I must say, none of this really crossed my mind as I ate—instead I was focused on the sublime sight of the fort illuminated at night, the sounds of the enchanting traditional music being skillfully played behind me, and the aromatic spices hitting my tongue. It provided a nice close to a wonderful day of exploring a city that still maintains strong links to its history.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-weight: normal; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIqkaWBVDYw60HQ-JmZ_bNcNLZMUoUOcqcdFgdiJlkTzDM4por71rTab0qJCLro8soZteTvYX11JV1BgnOW3gHx8vLmv3j8C5yYMwua-heDFKh1wBKH_hyphenhyphenlr1n1K43vO8vLNZ7HpW7e8I/s320/P1040148.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595588638924991442" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>After my relaxing dinner, it was time to wander back through the streets to the train station to head to another old city, Jodhpur. Yet before I escaped Jaisalmer, I had to make one more stop for a sweet treat. Recall how I said that the cuisine was often based on creams? Well, my after dinner specialty was no exception. If you travel to India it is mandatory that you try a lassi—a cream based drink served up chilled either sweet or salty that will satisfyingly slide down your throat. And don’t just get any lassi, if you ask me—make sure you grab a makhania lassi—one spiced with saffron. It provides a little sweet touch and a flavor that can’t be beat.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-weight: normal; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixEvup51mbQsGmPcwA0w1L14UR1un23II7OH7yzbkYIq0CT2eK027lwi-EkVs0PBbCDPYJhnFZ7hpajh9qQ7k1tFMQsMuaREzdMqO9vivNH-cbuE0tztGbJ8Pbp1hv2tTMqPCSKZ9XRx0/s320/P1040185.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595588633865937122" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">After my lassi pit stop, it was time to catch the train. This time with an upper berth on a much less crowded route, I was not surprised by any midnight visitors at the foot of my bed. Instead, I slept undisturbed until we arrived at 5 am in Jodhpur, my next stop and second introduction to Rajasthan.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Hopping off the train early in the morning, I headed into town without much else to do even though nothing was open. Wandering through the deserted streets in the early morning without much light, it was amazing how romantic the criss-crossed wires, falling doors and windows, and rusted signs were by the yellow lights of the streets. Without the full sun to expose the dusty reality and free of the bustle of vendors and street life, the buildings exuded only their color and charm.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-weight: normal; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCan1F7nOt-2FOidrCgctjmah7ymzXayzrJDtjrRVx6Y1jzVJVi5zDHgSSwR8JRAl2febYtKhMMb-vsuiJ5Aobj6-RF2Wwdze2FANDR1N2h2OT6I_qEuqKHe4eAm-aS0fELH8Et18Jd5A/s320/P1040191.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595588633524276210" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></b></p><div><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-weight: normal; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGA9o4lYe4266fbRxjcdrdlvowSmr2P7kP7GCjRGI8OpU_JG5Isn4nRYPi-LSbHhmGApfp1MhV3TuXVczqYEOSLQFMSutnPwRLrYpW3vHTycICxr6daZ1U9AkSWDMzzQtjKB920nhdZuo/s320/P1040192.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595589379401151378" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></span></b></div> <p class="MsoNormal">After wandering in this atmosphere for a while, I came upon the main square of the city where I was surrounded by open space and had a clear vista of the mighty Mehrangarh fort perched on the hill above Jodhpur. Here I sat and watched the sun rise as the town awoke. The sweepers emerged from their slumber first, followed by the first vendors hurrying in to set up their shop. As it was Monday, schoolchildren passed by on their way to lessons at the first crack of dawn, and slowly, the whole city awoke to greet the day.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Just as things began to get busy, I left the town square and made my way up the hill toward the fort. In the tortuous streets, I got lost many times, but like a true Indian, I just stopped and asked directions. Unfortunately, I came across a little trickster who wasn’t on his way to school who misled me three times on where I had to go, probably for his own entertainment. But finally after being righted by a shop owner, I was off on the steep path up to Mehrangarh. At the top, I had gorgeous views of the early morning over Jodhpur in front, and a staggering rise of stone walls behind me up to the top of the fort. <span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Though I was at the foot of the fort, I chose instead to start my day down the other side of the hill at Jaswant Thada, a tomb of a former leader of Jodhpur. As I walked, I was stunned on the road by the view of this marble tomb perched delicately over a river pitted against the hills and crumbling city wall. Pictures cannot capture the beauty of this marble edifice in the misty morning light contrasting with the green bushes, blue water, and orangey-brown hills in the back. It was a sublime sight, and a wonderful place to sit and enjoy the early morning.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-weight: normal; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidGOEE5XWiSm_ZkaaOwSHrBUvNY-1lyNcSRDXJ48KocurCfcoqhqtqEzPGReMtto0UBFFkH-7fvaTPNty6_qjN113j9a8fquYxcY3DtspPh4WP7870uFEF43jwr8e4mQYQO80DN4OhwX0/s320/P1040241.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595589374575044498" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">After a while, I finally tore myself away from my perch and headed down the road to the monument itself, leaving my secret vantage point by the roadside for another lucky traveler to stumble upon. While the monument was beautiful on the inside and up close, it didn’t match the view I had found previously. Made of white marble, and thus dubbed by some as the Taj Mahal of Rajasthan, the building was exquisitely carved and full of ornate detail—a sign of ostentation, wealth, and the love of the former ruler by his closest family and friends. This was one of the first examples of such a personal memento on a grand scale in India, and it led me to think about a few different things. First, I suppose in the past such buildings were not opposed by the populous most times simply because of the caste system and the fear of the ruling class, but I began to wonder how the middle and lower classes would have viewed such spending on a single person. Perhaps they took it as the right of the rulers, but perhaps there was social discontent. Second, and in counterpoint to my first thought, this monument must have provided a lot of employment. The level of craftsmanship in the marble work and the attention to detail must have taken builders and artists years to finish, therefore stimulating the economy in some way. Yet this led to my third train of thought, which was to wonder how such a project would be viewed today. Likely, it seems to me that it would be seen as a waste of public funds, especially in a country with as much disparity in income as India has. Yet at the same time, memorials are still commissioned, perhaps not on this scale, but they are a part of life.</p><p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-NqtuC8AOXsKI4AQOEQYQXKcpolSj5rYrIv8wa6oxR7T-UO1IARHn3HVDNPkg7bMKmhqiQy_B63CtOJcAJNtBvbT8_xdhqf20SM2w0bvoYNTeZWrN9QZSgy_hliCDEkJGZI8DYlZmbcA/s320/P1040263.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595589369380996562" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Anyhow, after marveling at the workmanship and construction of this marble memorial, I turned from Jaswant Thada to find a stunning view of Mehrangarh and the city of Jodhpur. From here, it was peaceful to behold the fort’s monumental façade over what the seemingly quiet town of Jodhpur. I say “seemingly” because from here, the noise of the city could not be heard and the sights of hustle and bustle could not be seen though I knew that on a Monday morning they must be there.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-weight: normal; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIxlMcuMrQuBiR6YShXQtHqVfhPa3abxGzxUiZxbUxGLf8fMC25k68W-YmQ7xFiPw-PR9RiojXMwDK08TsooL_Ub98HSbRYVP9r2n1tY6h0oygkVPc6m8uNNYPp3JtXv3tgNGwiexOyAs/s320/P1040305.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595589365096274562" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">After marveling at this sight for a bit, I headed back up the road to the base of Mehrangarh. From the base, I had to climb up further along another tortuous path to prevent my army and I from charging the gate and storming the palace. Along the way, there was evidence of the fort’s tumultuous history—cannon shell imprints dotted the walls, and after the main gate, the moving imprints of the hands of one Maharaja’s widows who threw themselves on his funeral pyre. Further up, I emerged into the main palace, a stunning mix of Mughal and traditional architecture that was used as a palace until recently. Now it is a museum showing what life as Rajasthani royalty was like. The exhibits covered everything from weaponry (important in the warrior traditions of the state), modes of transit including the women’s’ palanquins, and even portraits of the Maharajahs from the past. It was a really interesting walk through both past and recent history, and something I really enjoyed. Yet what was most stunning to me was the architecture. The palace is an interesting blend of Muslim and Indian influences, so details range from floral patterns and jali<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight:normal"> </b>screens (ornately decorated clay window treatments used to hide the women from the eyes of the men below) typical of the Middle Eastern influence to more traditional pyramidal and rounded forms of Indian architecture. The blend led to some quite stunning courtyards and spaces, all of which also had to wisely use air flows and natural light to make the spaces livable.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-weight: normal; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiey7PYVi06IySEq1Mv72YEtxQRX7VHQFHq-f04ozXlrhA6Kpfvr0CCq61R9vZpwDDTlWYDAVZnYYsZQI1yO2gIRdbiinPq8DlK680B6Gro8qlR7KPcRzr-0hhFHf9FTcL8FPJx6f4150M/s320/P1040327.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595589360523095362" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGZh3BKqNxK0lvO_BoRyeezYO8f0UQ7nsBh5LCsp7TSQsNcxcK8LEk-NDtwTCCzwtjcQHmNnewEJmNxZcxoqUgHB1JGZQUaAT4XiTh3gTT6fVelknM91vNJL5_EaqKc0hZ5KnqsMsRukQ/s1600/P1040336.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGZh3BKqNxK0lvO_BoRyeezYO8f0UQ7nsBh5LCsp7TSQsNcxcK8LEk-NDtwTCCzwtjcQHmNnewEJmNxZcxoqUgHB1JGZQUaAT4XiTh3gTT6fVelknM91vNJL5_EaqKc0hZ5KnqsMsRukQ/s320/P1040336.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595590035828056082" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_HRYLe05LPljJW2zYL4ILPuTd-4eXSQf_u-tCn4k3QKEkM8ccqGV-bvx3wA2PL5UccTuaeiOOws2xJgbSmo9XlUFnMyU0TjwfFoj42pkQ_8teKb9oZbWsRttTPWrclCEW1DqFbCNGADY/s1600/P1040347.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_HRYLe05LPljJW2zYL4ILPuTd-4eXSQf_u-tCn4k3QKEkM8ccqGV-bvx3wA2PL5UccTuaeiOOws2xJgbSmo9XlUFnMyU0TjwfFoj42pkQ_8teKb9oZbWsRttTPWrclCEW1DqFbCNGADY/s320/P1040347.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595590032179533538" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJzgtWbrCcrZuPvaxbk0OCcjGRu0WO7Nv9AwRUcMeupmAlHEcFd5kEFCGB8GU4txmS2C56bjPAPMRkRAMqxCJgfQDHKH6WAg5SnaFQUamtvnHt0B0gIHsi132B6Nb4qfFnbOPARBz0YTg/s1600/P1040381.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJzgtWbrCcrZuPvaxbk0OCcjGRu0WO7Nv9AwRUcMeupmAlHEcFd5kEFCGB8GU4txmS2C56bjPAPMRkRAMqxCJgfQDHKH6WAg5SnaFQUamtvnHt0B0gIHsi132B6Nb4qfFnbOPARBz0YTg/s320/P1040381.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595590021308246642" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtMey1MuI0aVxsJcGVG9AIfQmXIASzu6Bmzotg36_kzQVo-R1f4y7ldcvQNelZHpXe7AOAgtngio0iwuJarZkxVwSnJeOXTtby_-STAr6XXbXghAZJHeAKXdRp70Nw9_Ii_gzyIG-Wmbc/s1600/P1040386.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtMey1MuI0aVxsJcGVG9AIfQmXIASzu6Bmzotg36_kzQVo-R1f4y7ldcvQNelZHpXe7AOAgtngio0iwuJarZkxVwSnJeOXTtby_-STAr6XXbXghAZJHeAKXdRp70Nw9_Ii_gzyIG-Wmbc/s320/P1040386.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595590018596637666" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj36CQJ6eDRTmSOZKfhffs5pZ39Rgibjj8yJQQIBLaobggW8gKa4yQd7T2_QJWC1kcmMZs2ZF1IRc2rSWBQd2H4O0GagCRaWmTc0FCEd2dtwA0b2kPuc7fGr6nP1SCJFQye7MU18Z606CY/s1600/P1040400.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj36CQJ6eDRTmSOZKfhffs5pZ39Rgibjj8yJQQIBLaobggW8gKa4yQd7T2_QJWC1kcmMZs2ZF1IRc2rSWBQd2H4O0GagCRaWmTc0FCEd2dtwA0b2kPuc7fGr6nP1SCJFQye7MU18Z606CY/s320/P1040400.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595590012320286482" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP_RAW2a-9ggO6h8XNAnkYWkzpJCc8lceGN-5x_qrJn1Y18_n7Nrkyv8RXIJvaRRw9aNWTMDAoWVQsu1hz-qFx3rzhfPtIMjpIS45EiJslTep_uOPs3JtJnKB3uceVrb_d0yvL2Zyg0Rg/s1600/P1040434.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP_RAW2a-9ggO6h8XNAnkYWkzpJCc8lceGN-5x_qrJn1Y18_n7Nrkyv8RXIJvaRRw9aNWTMDAoWVQsu1hz-qFx3rzhfPtIMjpIS45EiJslTep_uOPs3JtJnKB3uceVrb_d0yvL2Zyg0Rg/s320/P1040434.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595590448002222002" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFTO8HiVNfV1s3hhGJMuwTSfREQR6-ofIjbui_TjDLOC5m6GHJOpH-KmL4FDbT-6cEimSXhR5iJrSgccurU9YHf55OZQWxcqjO1N0pVklLLkyk9dEczyDEnTdP0e28VfoL2cmqrvohfRo/s1600/P1040441.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFTO8HiVNfV1s3hhGJMuwTSfREQR6-ofIjbui_TjDLOC5m6GHJOpH-KmL4FDbT-6cEimSXhR5iJrSgccurU9YHf55OZQWxcqjO1N0pVklLLkyk9dEczyDEnTdP0e28VfoL2cmqrvohfRo/s320/P1040441.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595590432986085666" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal">I found it interesting that in the palace, elements that on the surface seemed predominantly cultural actually were also very environmental in use. For example, the jali screens which I mentioned previously not only prevented the women from being seen but also helped allow in light to the chambers while blocking most of the heat. The open nature of the intricate patterns also allowed for breezes to flow through unabated, thus cooling the rooms. Large rings dangling in the courtyards that once held tapestries also seem on the surface as a decorative touch, but in reality, in summer these tapestries were dunked in water so that breezes would pick up the cool water and spread it over the occupants in the palace. Combine this with the thermal mass of the stones making the palace (also predominantly for defense and stability), and you have a very climate-responsive building, and an example of smart design from hundreds of years ago. Why did we switch to massive glass buildings?</p> <p class="MsoNormal">After my tour of the palace, I headed out to the fort’s battlements. Aside from marveling at the array of cannons won in battle (one even was all the way from China, I think via the British army, or perhaps a Middle Eastern invader), the view over Jodhpur from up here was breathtaking. For those who know Jodhpur you will know that it too has a colorful nickname—the blue city. What is strange is that it is completely deserving of this moniker.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxVDjqaJDCMo4fA-SL8gZyux9kjS3e-eJQttk-j8tqK_GUutEd3O8HybOhPtQY2PmLssvAIXyD6k9tuuFNyb0zCXITv6jqqhjwalSjObU5-Pcby0YQ1ADo4EKlzHzNYh5g1InhtiFhlbo/s1600/Panorama+2.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxVDjqaJDCMo4fA-SL8gZyux9kjS3e-eJQttk-j8tqK_GUutEd3O8HybOhPtQY2PmLssvAIXyD6k9tuuFNyb0zCXITv6jqqhjwalSjObU5-Pcby0YQ1ADo4EKlzHzNYh5g1InhtiFhlbo/s320/Panorama+2.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595590433157376386" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 123px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM1M2BvhHF_SuBoppyZuXTziz0iu_DUIJcv86mzMPAq5-ss9g47C2T5xqAfv7AP8B6D_tnPgD2K4jamUZqA4zqcTy1yTqxCKlG6IbNEg9qEbWg3VYw0ksMBEVnqNFBUHjtAPBYLLbD1pA/s1600/P1040454.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM1M2BvhHF_SuBoppyZuXTziz0iu_DUIJcv86mzMPAq5-ss9g47C2T5xqAfv7AP8B6D_tnPgD2K4jamUZqA4zqcTy1yTqxCKlG6IbNEg9qEbWg3VYw0ksMBEVnqNFBUHjtAPBYLLbD1pA/s320/P1040454.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595590434557422930" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">The city, from the top of the fort, actually is blue! Well, at least the old part. Now you may ask why that is. Well, one explanation is that the natural blue color helps both to keep houses cool in the summer and that it acts as a natural repellent for mosquitoes and other insects. Don’t ask me why the color blue repels—it wasn’t explained beyond that, but apparently it does. And as for the cooling effect, it is understood now in building design that color has a huge impact on a structure, and light colors and those that reflect the sun definitely help. This again is another example of excellent traditional design that came from years of trial and error rather than today’s energy simulations and advanced design thinking. Unfortunately, things like the simple color of a building are only now being rediscovered as important for performance. Part of the reason, at least, is earlier in this paragraph. Can you find it?</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Part of the reason is that indigenous building techniques and traditional styles are often not well explained by those who practice them. They may not even understand that what they are doing is better from a performance standpoint than some other alternative. They may simply build the way they do or paint the way the do because that is what has been done for years in their village. They may simply know nothing else. Now imagine going into a village in a harsh climate, seeing a building, and asking why it is comfortable inside. You may get some answers, but it will never be complete. To understand why, you need to do a full study on the building and few people are doing these, especially in India. Some architects interested in research are, and the <a href="http://www.cbri.org.in/">Central Building Research Institute</a> in Roorkee is doing work on understanding these traditional structures. Aside from that, there are few attempts as developers are content to proceed in their modern ways without concern for whether it is the best path for the region or not. The first step to changing this mentality is understanding the alternatives. Rather than apply costly technology, we must re-learn and analyze the traditional techniques that have worked effectively and cheaply for years and teach those to new architects, designers, and developers. If India does this effectively, it could set a precedent for sustainable design worldwide. Few countries take as much pride in their heritage as India, and if the design community wakes up to the value of this heritage to modern works, the savings could be staggering and the visual results breathtaking.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Coming back to my trip from my (hopefully thought-provoking) aside, another staggering thing about the battlements was that from up here you could hear all of the noises of the city bouncing their way up the sheer cliff at your feet. Horns honked, parents yelled, and birds chirped, all invisible to the eye but present to the ear. It was a reminder as you surveyed this city, its paths and buildings jumbling together in an orchestrated confusion, that it was not just a sight but a pulsing center of life. The combination was amazing, and held my attention for quite a while. As I finally made my way back down from the fort, this time not to return, the noises remained and slowly the city itself came into clearer focus and narrowed in scope from a vast picture to smaller sections until finally it was just the narrow street in front of me, multi-colored buildings on either side leaning over the busy lanes of cyclists, vendors, rickshaws, and the ever-present cows.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">With a few hours until my train, I wandered these narrow streets and happened upon multiple children fascinated by me but more by my camera. Each one called to me asking for “one snap.” Happy to oblige, I would take a quick photo and then show them which usually set them running off giggling to tell friends or parents. On one occasion, the kids asked not just for one snap of them but then to take one of me! A little nervous for my camera, I carefully let them try with some interesting candid results.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-weight: normal; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXDj7kkX3FosjvahuslEw-MGOVzzfR5Fqzs72eLQJ0PEeZB39Ox7nROX5VFQ_tXoo8VCsG1sbPYZkwleNI7vMOLWY5YBgwrq95pxsxzfdpZuE-3i8q_ItNMzjtKKGVxrkEYjBj2DgGRQw/s320/P1040492.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595590430629383570" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></span></b></p><div><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-weight: normal; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPRcFCFX_ZUID_vcDVOcEBms6lbVx3od-oG2Xf8H5PO_AIUa_9FGnSlSZ6Ta2Kkurn2Stbev6gGPO3fQ1RnFV11VISwfmZ88yG_HoKxDLDEQ_epKn23rhcWCjzaRWtmoX-M6S2X-ap-Q8/s1600/P1040493.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPRcFCFX_ZUID_vcDVOcEBms6lbVx3od-oG2Xf8H5PO_AIUa_9FGnSlSZ6Ta2Kkurn2Stbev6gGPO3fQ1RnFV11VISwfmZ88yG_HoKxDLDEQ_epKn23rhcWCjzaRWtmoX-M6S2X-ap-Q8/s320/P1040493.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595591163699104738" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigki7Mi6__kPaotGfl7Vlu4Zu8DDoxuI4xtx5Bn9QTjzX393gax_WxIwEtIh1_GJfGFcPpeY1MqcQ67sa4WnkgM_D6YC1a0s113x2JZNywZJVc6fEAsq8B3pauWni891aOtjjfVjV2vUc/s1600/P1040494.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigki7Mi6__kPaotGfl7Vlu4Zu8DDoxuI4xtx5Bn9QTjzX393gax_WxIwEtIh1_GJfGFcPpeY1MqcQ67sa4WnkgM_D6YC1a0s113x2JZNywZJVc6fEAsq8B3pauWni891aOtjjfVjV2vUc/s320/P1040494.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595591160881835874" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSPnVemZ3rcYzt1jPpgSbfu6hrUN8abHKyRqrW9tMt9GlNoVkFS5i38ADiBTHkvoklwlla3T7Pu8hK_FMP5HIf3_eAFtgg7UO8wYsfs5BTksdbQ432G5z-rVU9P1AKhBUHtDYp6Rilsk8/s1600/P1040496.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSPnVemZ3rcYzt1jPpgSbfu6hrUN8abHKyRqrW9tMt9GlNoVkFS5i38ADiBTHkvoklwlla3T7Pu8hK_FMP5HIf3_eAFtgg7UO8wYsfs5BTksdbQ432G5z-rVU9P1AKhBUHtDYp6Rilsk8/s320/P1040496.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595591158225117314" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivYwtg0VtMATZc1s5JJu3uxG9LZlRqRXskg9cT-VxtWLe4MHavSbCHHIUWCbK1OxzZtW22I1NbWx9U_oDC5eVXORT7_lu5hAx6szAg1fhuSfpSsrRBLMW8A6ol0CD8rZSEOzE33tKiD3o/s1600/P1040498.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivYwtg0VtMATZc1s5JJu3uxG9LZlRqRXskg9cT-VxtWLe4MHavSbCHHIUWCbK1OxzZtW22I1NbWx9U_oDC5eVXORT7_lu5hAx6szAg1fhuSfpSsrRBLMW8A6ol0CD8rZSEOzE33tKiD3o/s320/P1040498.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595591157516338050" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLzziCkeHfRFoeL8pi2aXVa4UtW-nwYMOv4SIv52QRAqYW2QbKIkS0zqlIWHQxT7uCsgP3dXBgWVaYYaXdgsOVy6meItaSttWYqANM8a1lfx26Py6NVo0hhP4O4ojfaaCz9be26IVgUtE/s1600/P1040499.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLzziCkeHfRFoeL8pi2aXVa4UtW-nwYMOv4SIv52QRAqYW2QbKIkS0zqlIWHQxT7uCsgP3dXBgWVaYYaXdgsOVy6meItaSttWYqANM8a1lfx26Py6NVo0hhP4O4ojfaaCz9be26IVgUtE/s320/P1040499.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595591151272230306" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></span></span></b></div><div><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-weight: normal; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkrFA9feOQqTdVDqmFVRNaK6LRuK6FSD402eVWOwEEo1GqbGkqStTB5eadWr4VupJVcI9RSz0CuXG3QPSc_xmpSdw81Bsj2PgX1cSOU1SXuZM78G-PumIIrBI9ZZfFCa8wQTQ958yedeg/s320/P1040500.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595591333194607282" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></span></b></div> <p class="MsoNormal">As the sun set on Jodhpur, I found myself once more in the town square where it all began that morning for me. As I sipped another makhania lassi, I watched the last rays of light flicker over the fort, the lights on the clock tower blaze to life, and the pace of the city begin to wane. With the pulse of the city fading, it was time for me too to call it a day and catch my overnighter back to Delhi, once again with the luxury of having my own berth all to myself.</p>Rob Besthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09463964785697202357noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9070652898233554429.post-47749662618530070482011-04-05T18:00:00.000-07:002011-04-05T18:03:21.796-07:00Discovering Delhi<p class="MsoNormal">In between my adventures with monkeys and my experiences sitting in temples and contemplating religion, I figured it would be a good idea to actually explore a bit of the city in which I was residing—Delhi. This post will go over some of my initial impressions and process of discovery in the city as well as offer some thoughts on urban planning and building construction in Delhi and India based on some of my initial meetings in the city.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">What surprised me most about Delhi when I first arrived (aside from the driving, cows in the road, and general lack of pollution controls) was that I could not from street level or even riding the Metro identify a commercial, financial, or residential center of the city. I had expected that, like Nairobi, Beijing, and Shanghai, there would be a distinct city center with high rise office and apartment buildings clearly marking the heart of the city. I had initially thought that I missed this on the drive from the airport to Paharganj because it was night and the road may not have run that way, so I set out in search of the city center over the next few days. My first guess was to head to Connaught Place, the portion of the city that Lonely Planet identified as one of the highlights for shopping and a district that on a map appears to be both central and shaped as though it was meant as a focal point (Connaught Place centers on a park ringed by three circular roads lined with buildings).</p> <p class="MsoNormal">As I mentioned in an <a href="http://robswatsonadventure.blogspot.com/2011/03/of-mice-and-monkeys.html">earlier post</a>, when I arrived in Connaught Place I was extremely surprised at what met my eyes. This high street shopping complex was a collection of run down colonial buildings carved up into quality retail and small second-hand shops that had varying levels of dirt and grime on their exteriors, and in some cases on the interiors. For some, the interior was glittering and spotless—a stark contrast to the polluted white facades on the outside. Despite the presence of a few high rise buildings, the open nature of the whole Connaught Place area didn’t satisfy my requirement for the city center. So within a few days, I headed to the political center—Rajpath. This is a broad road running from India Gate, a monument to the fallen Indian soldiers, to the President’s house and the buildings for Parliament. It is the political center of the nation and a clear statement of the British might of yore.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Though Rajpath is certainly monumental both in its breadth and in the surrounding buildings, all of which are colossal in structure, massive in foundation and construction, and imperial in appearance, it does not rise above the level of the trees. In fact, from the road itself, all you can see is India Gate at one end and Parliament at the other. The remaining buildings are hidden by trees on either side of the road. So though you know the massive museums, courthouses, and other structures surround you, on Rajpath itself you feel as though you are away from the city. Though impressive that such a beautiful, serene park exists in the heart of the capital, this again was not the city center for which I was searching. </p> <p class="MsoNormal">Throughout some of my meetings I found myself soon in other neighborhoods in Delhi—Lodi Estates, Chanakyapuri (the diplomatic area), South Delhi, Saket, and other areas, and yet in none of them could I find a veritable city center. Each had a couple of scattered high rises and some important functions, but none had the town center which I sought. The same was true of Old Delhi. Though this area had at one time been the extent of the city walls, it did not have any true city center. This area, also called Shahjahanabad after the creator, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shah_jahan">Shah Jahan</a> (the same emperor who built the Taj Mahal), had the Red Fort as its center of life and Chandni Chowk as its economic center and neither have changed much since the decay of the Mughal empire and the relocation of Delhi to Lutyens’ New Delhi in the early 1900s. So even here there was no city center but only a crowded bazaar full of hawkers peddling off-brand items and electronics that were suspiciously cheap.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">So as I continued to explore Delhi, I came to the conclusion that this city didn’t have a visible urban center in the sense that I expected. There was no central business district easily identifiable by its skyscrapers and modernity. Though there are a few new massive shopping malls glittering in glass, there is not a central shopping district or a single place where people flock to do their shopping and enjoy their nightlife. In fact, the city began to remind me of Los Angeles which, in this case, is not a good thing. In my explorations I found multiple centers to the city which draw different groups of people at different times and a very spread out environment that made it tedious to get around at times. The increasingly bad traffic, overcrowded Metro rail, and infrequent and sometimes dangerous buses meant that the city was a challenge at times to navigate. Follow that with the lack of sidewalks, encroachment by small shops, trees, and motor vehicles on pedestrian paths, and you get a model that in my opinion is not a very sustainable city.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">It wasn’t just in transit that Delhi reminded me of LA (though rush hour in Delhi did bring back images of the packed 405) but also in form. The low-density, polycentric city was very reminiscent of the sporadic and unconstrained development of LA. Because Delhi is still experiencing this whereas LA is growing less rapidly, the city is able to better plan transit like the Metro but still is lagging behind the demand. The reason for this, in my considered but inexperienced opinion, is that such low-density cities are inherently unsustainable. They do not lend themselves to mass transit possibilities. This is not just my opinion actually, and is not revolutionary in the least—I think any study of an American city (save some on the East coast) will show the same result. When you have lower densities and people who are more spread out, the challenge of servicing all of those locations with public transit becomes inherently uneconomical and impossible. This is referred to as the challenge of the “last mile”—something I discussed briefly in <a href="http://robswatsonadventure.blogspot.com/2010/11/ridin-rails.html">my post on Chinese transit</a>.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Yet what is interesting about Delhi is that the low-density nature of the city did not arise as much out of style as it did in LA but out of necessity. In LA, the concept of the nuclear family and the dream of a single family house with a white picket fence led to the creation of suburbs and flight from the apartments of the city center. By contrast in Delhi, low-rise buildings became the standard due to a lack of constant, stable electricity, especially further back than 20 years ago. Rolling blackouts are common which, for tall buildings, render elevators unusable and therefore would make taller structures than 4 storeys or thereabout difficult to manage as a resident. Imagine being stranded on the 20<sup>th</sup> floor with your only means of leaving being the stairs. Certainly some of us would merely shrug and accept the possibility, but most would be appalled. Building codes reinforced this idea especially as water began to run out in Delhi. Rainwater harvesting was found to work best in mid-rise buildings simply because in taller buildings with a smaller footprint, the amount that can be harvested is much smaller than the amount needed in the structure. Mid-rise buildings offer a sweetspot where all harvested water can be used and not too much excess needs to be taken from the ground. Delhi is entirely fed on groundwater (trust me, you don’t want to drink from the heavily polluted, yet sacred, River Yamuna which bisects the city) which has in recent years dropped to unsustainable levels. Therefore, rainwater harvesting became a necessity and put an artificial limit on the height of residential buildings.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>The challenge then is one of balancing the stressed and infrequent resources with the desire for higher densities and thus reduced energy and emissions from transportation. It does not make sense to build taller if you do not have the resources to service such a building. Yet as affluence in India increases, this challenge will only be compounded. Citizens will demand larger spaces for themselves and their families and the four storey houses that may now house four families will only house two or one. Compounding this further is the decline in what is known as “family home.” In Indian culture, there is a tight bond between the generations within a family, and traditionally all would live together in a shared house. In cities, this means that you are likely to find rooms for grandparents, parents, brothers, sisters, aunts and uncles, and other relatives all in one house. In more affluent families, each unit may have their own floor. The problem is this practice is declining now as Western ideas of families and culture permeate India. More families now want their own houses and thus do not live in shared accommodation as frequently.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Given these factors, the challenge of transportation in turn relies more heavily on personal transit, which increasingly means cars. Growth in private autos hit a record high last year, and growth of two-wheelers (motorized) is also significant. If Delhi continues to spread as it has been, the growth of low-rise and lower density housing will become a bigger problem.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">There is evidence that this may be changing. New developments advertised in the Metro stations are often for flats in larger towers, often 12 storeys or more. Disappointingly, these higher density buildings are often built as glass boxes like Western residential structures and are therefore not climatically appropriate for India (more on that in a later post). On top of this, they lack the mixed use component that is typical of current Indian developments. In many areas, grocery, chemist (pharmacy), and other everyday shops often are integrated in each residential block in a single area as part of a mixed-use development. This is not as true in the plans for new developments. Furthermore, the new buildings, to overcome the challenge of infrequent power, have their own back-up generators, almost all of which run on diesel. Put that into your life-cycle analysis, and then it is even blurrier as to whether the benefits from living in higher density spaces outweigh the increased energy use in the space. Oh, and to make this even blurrier, most of these new developments are just more sprawl. They are not replacing existing buildings in the capital that are in need of upgrades but rather adding to satellite cities around Delhi proper. That means that new residents likely have a longer commute and perhaps even more embedded transport emissions by virtue of living far from where they might work. That is the price of increasing affluence in Delhi at the moment.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">I don’t mean to paint so bleak a picture of Delhi and its future, but unfortunately I don’t think that the city or the Government of India yet have a good, comprehensive urban planning process. Growth is good right now in India as the country tries to catch up after years of mandatory 3% growth. Unfortunately, that growth is taking the form of Los Angeles rather than Mumbai in the case of Delhi (Mumbai is one of the world’s densest cities which leads to its own set of benefits and challenges. Still, I personally would advocate looking at this model instead of LA). That said, Delhi still has a chance to set itself on a better path. They have a good plan for expansion of the Metro light rail system which will certainly help improve transportation in the capital. Building regulations are improving as well, and the government is focused on trying to develop a comprehensive sustainability plan which ideally will consider some of these tradeoffs. Solar power and rainwater harvesting are actively being promoted in all sectors to help address the resource challenges. Yet despite this activity, the rate of growth is outstripping the rate at which these issues are being solved. Things must change rapidly to avoid lock-in either in terms of resource use or in transportation energy (the former, resource use in buildings, is a topic I will save for another post).</p> <p class="MsoNormal">I hope this hasn’t been too rambling, but before I leave off for now, I want to add one more thought on urban planning to the mix. As I was riding the Metro to and from all of these sites in Delhi and looking at my map, I couldn’t help but notice the large swaths of protected forest that cut through the heart of the city. I found that to be very interesting and unique relative to many cities I visited. On the surface it sounds great, right? Green belts are supposed to promote better air quality, allow for relaxation and better health, and provide aesthetic value to the city. Yet protecting these areas has had the effect of forcing sprawl to be further from the city’s centers. That means that transportation energy is increased, commuting time goes up, and eventually the green spaces become isolated from one another which, as any ecologist will tell you, is not an ideal situation for conservation. So as I was riding, I began to wonder whether the ecological benefits of these forests in the city was outweighed by the added pollution and challenge of navigating around them to commute from home to work. Personally, I think it would be an interesting study. Hopefully in later posts I’ll comment further on this and the other issues I’ve raised in this post regarding urban planning. In the meantime, any thoughts or feedback are, as always, appreciated.</p>Rob Besthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09463964785697202357noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9070652898233554429.post-90050600804280764292011-03-21T09:38:00.000-07:002011-03-21T09:44:08.676-07:00The Land of Religion<div style="text-align: left;">I am not a religious person. I have attended few church services in my life and probably as many bar and bat mitzvahs. I joke sometimes that given my friends and their invitations to Hanukkah and Seder dinner, I am closer to being Jewish than to Christian, the religion in which both of my parents were raised. Because of this, religion has never been a matter of great importance to me personally. I understand its role in our world (at least to the degree an outsider can) but don’t actively practice a religion. I instead rely on a set of values I feel is ostensibly Christian but also common to most if not all world religions. Yet here, in India, I find myself in one of the holiest lands on earth. Here is the birthplace of the oldest religion in the world, Hinduism. It is the land in which the Buddha obtained enlightenment and the home of Sikhism, a large Muslim population, many Zoroastrians (Parsees), and other mystical beliefs. There are even <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jesus_in_India_(book)">some who claim that Jesus lived for a stint in India</a>. While admittedly it is not the holy land for three of the major world religions (that honor belongs to Jerusalem), it is an important center of religion and a country where, unexpectedly, I have given great thought to the subject.</div> <p class="MsoNormal">This trip has been an unexpected wealth of religious thinking for me. If you recall from my post on <a href="http://robswatsonadventure.blogspot.com/2011/02/my-last-week-in-uae.html">my last week in Dubai</a>, I had the opportunity to pray in a mosque and learn the actions associated with the five-times daily reminder of God’s presence and supremacy. The peaceful, meditative atmosphere that induced self-reflection combined with the humbling communal aspect of the prayer affected me and brought to mind thoughts of the importance of religion. I saw the strength of that community in action, how ideally it helps breed social equality into people’s thoughts, and how when executed in the intended manner, it caused one to evaluate one’s actions and redirect his course if necessary. On arrival to India, I didn’t expect that I would have a similar experience (how could I when I hadn’t expected the prayer in Dubai), but I should have known that in this land of religion, I would experience something to stimulate again my thinking on faith.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">This came sooner than expected, and in Delhi, of all places. Though located on the Yamuna River, one of importance in Hinduism, Delhi is not considered to be a holy city in any major religion, nor is it particularly flush with religious sites. Yet along the purple Metro line, a white marble structure unlike any you will have ever seen rises from the trees and captures your attention. If you stop at the Kalkaji Mandir station, and I encourage you to, you will find that this beautiful sculpture is a temple, but not one from the major religions of the nation. In fact, this is of a religion that also considers Jerusalem to be its holy land, but not Christianity, Judaism, or Islam. It is a Baha'i Temple, and in particular, the Lotus Temple.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-weight: normal; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm8k3I0yvTyhqAHzc0FLY2q8fmTugM0dWpvPQyI7IuF2ZNCK3Cvb4YGs75gvTl4vRi-iRLgW_GENVszF1u7icAxtK6cAMoMJ_yCCRTZCJMWx7_iMj1Kz5qyzMS3rzwISEK1w7SX6WwHCU/s320/P1030574.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586574589573527938" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Don’t know what the Baha'i Faith is? Neither did I, but if anything that made me want to find out more. I had alighted from the Metro with a mind treating this as another sight to see within Delhi and a plan to start early so I wouldn’t have to cram them all in at the tail end of my stay. That mentality stayed as I wove through throngs of schoolchildren visiting the site on a field trip. However after depositing my shoes and heading to the base of the monumental, gorgeous architectural feat, I felt an atmosphere of greater reverence than that afforded just a typical sight. As I waited to enter, I and the other visitors were explained the tenets of <a href="http://www.bahai.org/">the Baha'i Faith</a>, which centers on unity of all major world religions. The Baha'i’s believe that Bahaullah is the most recent prophet of God after Jesus and Mohammed and was sent in the 1800s to teach God’s word to modern society. Their views are decidedly more liberal than the Catholic Church or Islam regarding women, marriage, and social issues, and they seek unity rather than divisiveness among these often tense religious sects. Under this belief, the temple is open to anyone from any faith to pray and meditate with the only requirement of silence while inside. At different times of day, this silence is broken with a prayer from one of the 9 world religions which they seek to unify.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">After entering, the architectural enthusiast in me fought hard to forget religion and just stare at the beautiful concrete and marble interior. My eyes followed the graceful arches that buttressed the 9 interior lotus petals, eliminating the need for any interior columns. Structurally and aesthetically, this was an inspiring space. However after this initial assessment, it was time to focus on the purpose of visiting a temple—meditation and religion. Looking around, I saw people bent in different forms of prayer. Some had the more Christian pose of hands clasped and head bowed, others assumed the meditative seating of the Buddha, and still others sat straight and still, eyes closed in thought. Not sure which best would suit me, I went with what felt natural and soon was lost in thought about the nature and role of religion in modern society.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Now I won’t discuss all of what went through my mind for a few reasons, mostly because I don’t want to get into a religious discourse and partly because some of it was on my own personal beliefs. Besides, I don’t want to give the impression that this was a profound revelation for me in any way. It was one of the most dedicated times I’ve had to think about religion, but it did not leave me with any crystallizing vision on my own beliefs. What I will say is that at one point in my stream of thought, my mind turned toward the topic of extremism in religion. In both this temple and in the mosque in Ajman, I was surrounded by an atmosphere where religion bred peace and community, not division. So how, I wondered, do people become so tied up in single lines or phrases within their religious texts or teachings that they deviate from what, to an outsider, seems the overarching message? Sure each religion claims to be the right one, but as long as attempts at “educating” (read: converting) the non-believers are peaceful, that should not be an issue. It only becomes one if the dogma of righteousness is taken to an extreme and drives zealots to violence in the name of their god(s). And why is this prevalent in Western religions but not Hinduism and Buddhism? I don’t have any answer for these questions, and probably never will, but it seems strange that such an overarchingly positive message can become so twisted in the minds of a few. If anyone has thoughts, I’d be interested to hear.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">I was taught more about the Ba’hai faith after leaving the temple by one of the volunteers, a girl from Riverside, CA, named Carmel. She spotted me as an American from far away and when we realized we were from just down the freeway from one another, she was eager to lead me on a personal tour of the display on the Baha'i Faith. It was interesting to learn about this new religion and ponder its beliefs. What to the engineer in me was more interesting, though, was the video showing the construction of the temple. Precise wood formwork, 48 hour continuous concrete pours with regulated cooling, and placement of individually created marble slabs went into the construction. The amount of innovation and high-technology required and executed in a generally lower-technology culture (India in the 1980s) was fascinating and really fascinating to watch.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">A quick aside at this point: I have often looked at older mosques and temples and marveled at the details of the sculptures on the facades and interiors. The amount of devotion that went into the construction to put that level of painstaking detail just astounds me. Looking at modern structures, I have often felt that is missing. Now I know that there is a difference now in the amount of money available and labor laws (you can’t pay an artisan peanuts these days or just have a king allot large sums to projects), but it still seems that the devotional aspect of the laborers is missing. Here, at the Lotus Temple, it was apparent that the Iranian architect who executed the project had the full religious spirit in him throughout. The care he took to ensure that his design was completed as envisioned was inspiring. It was refreshing to see someone care so much about creating a grand home for his faith.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">It was not long after my visit to the Lotus Temple that I had my second encounter with religion in India. In fact, it was the following weekend when, after finding the trains to Agra once again fully booked, I headed north to Amritsar. Many who visit India for just a few weeks miss this gem of a town partly because it is out of the way and partly because aside from the border closing ceremony with Pakistan, its only draw is the Golden Temple, the holiest site in Sikhism. This, in my opinion, is a mistake. In my time in this country, I have not found a more peaceful place than that temple, and whether you are a Sikh or not, to sit on the cool marble and watch the sun’s first rays glance off the massive amounts of gold adorning the façade of the temple is an awesome experience.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-weight: normal; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYwueCokfQfGV-MrxD3VOurhxofJj_6hS-PwQxNUtOyFM0BaCJ4TUvy5eljKL6LH-j5ys2fPbtlYDgmNdvRZJPDs4KsD557MNFUHZ0m_UF1jTb4NckSC25KiVkl7P9CXm_GaQM1Wq1eNA/s320/P1030668.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586574593268945874" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">First, again, I will discuss the architectural viewpoint. The temple sits on a platform in a large square pool surrounded on all sides by white plastered, ornate buildings. The buildings house various kitchens, dorms, and facilities for Sikh pilgrims (of which there are many), while the temple is only for devotion and prayer. The pool is ringed by a white colonnade growing out of marble flooring which provides a comfortable place to sit and access to the pool to wash away one’s sins. The temple itself is a gorgeous building for its ornate façade detailing and for the hundreds of kilograms of gold heaped on its top and sides by a Sikh ruler wishing to make a present to the faith. Four bulbous towers reach skyward, one in each corner, around a central bulbous dome, all adorned with smaller bulbs, spires, and upturned pieces reminiscent of lotus petals. The sides are draped in fake windows and pilasters, and thousands of smaller floral and other designs in a beautiful arrangement that shows just how much care was taken in the creation of this place.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">In the ultimate mark of devotion, prayers ring out from the temple continuously throughout day and night. Songs of devotion from the Sikh canon are dispersed over loudspeakers to those in and around the temple as a constant reminder of faith and God. Those who sing these chants are admirably passionate in their beliefs and following the truest path they know to reaching a higher plane. Even those who are of a different faith, I believe, must admire this devotion and that they have chosen to express it in a constructive manner that is both self-satisfying and for the good of their community.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">I arrived at the temple at sunrise and sat on the marble floor, watching as light filled the square cavern around the temple. As I did, I observed the line to enter the temple proper grow from only a few right at sunrise to the length of the pathway out to the temple and then some. Here, on a Sunday of no great importance in the Sikh religion, the number of people making pilgrimage to the temple or visiting just for regular prayers was incredible. I have been in full temples and churches in the past, but that has always been on a special occasion—a holiday or a special ceremony in the life of a member of the faith. This was a normal day in Amritsar, and yet the line to pray was like the line for a ride at Disneyland! I suppose that comes of the Golden Temple being such a holy site (perhaps the Wailing Wall in Jerusalem has a similar queue each day), but also of the devotion of the Sikh followers. As I mentioned earlier, I have often felt that devotion to religious ideals, even among those who claim to practice religion, lacks in modern culture, but here I saw the respect which these people held for their faith. It was inspiring.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Later in the morning, I was approached by two young Sikhs eager to talk to a foreigner—they don’t get many at this site. They told me more about Sikhism and took me into the queue for the temple. Together we walked to the temple front, they prayed, and I followed, and then we walked to the back to drink the water of the pool. Initially hesitant because of the old adage not to drink the water in India, I did on the insistence of my companions who would see it as an affront to their faith if I did not. We then were offered a sweet tasting mash to conclude the prayer ritual and headed back down the walk to the colonnade around the temple.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">That small description of this event may not sound like much—certainly it was not the shared prayer experience that I had in Ajman in the mosque, nor was it the meditative peace I found in the Lotus Temple. Yet as I watched my companions, I saw these two outgoing, typical Indian teens suddenly transform into a calm, devoted, meditative state when we entered the temple, clearly engaged in self-reflection and prayer. I have seen the same among my more religious friends at home during daily or weekly prayers, but it was interesting to see here how even among modern youth, religion still has a significant role. Based on what I saw then and have seen since, this seems to be truer in India than in the US.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">After this prayer, my friends departed and I was left alone once more at the temple. I headed off to see a few other temples and sights in Amritsar but returned in time to sit by the temple once more before and during sunset. In this time, as I sat alone, I directed my thoughts once more toward religion and the line of devotees still waiting to pray. I pondered my own beliefs and why for these people religion and prayer were an important part of their lives and for me it was not. Was I missing something? Or did my values, sense of community and role therein, and faith in science, to some degree, provide the same function as the faith in a higher power did for them? Again, I had no major revelations but some interesting thoughts that I will refrain from sharing to avoid a religious treatise. However considering the role that religion plays in Indian culture (one that I have since learned is quite important in many aspects of life and not so important in others) and considering the general lack of comparable religious importance in the US, I wonder what has become the substitute. Clearly here for many, religion provides some valuable service. So if it does not do the same for the average American, what has replaced it?</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Again, in an attempt to avoid delving too deep into opinions on religions, I will stop there and return to my narrative. As night fell, I was led to the communal areas of the temple by another friend. He showed me the dining hall and dormitories where volunteers helped prepare food and rooms for travelers and pilgrims. I was again impressed with the philosophy of openness to all religions—both dining and lodging were open to all for only a donation of your choosing. After this, and one last glance at the temple, it was time to return to the bus station for the overnight ride home (an adventure in itself, but one for a later post).</p> <p class="MsoNormal">I suppose that after these two experiences, though I have few conclusions about my own beliefs or the importance of religion in society, the one realization I have had is that it is important to take time to consider these issues. It is important because it helps inform your own beliefs and understand your views but also because it allows you to see the world through someone else’s eyes. We get too often wrapped up in our own beliefs, be they religious or secular, and forget that others view the world through a different lens. We can never forget that it is necessary to see the world from all sides to reach work together effectively and overcome differences. With that thought, I will end this post. I will also leave with a promise of another post on India’s major religions later (which I did not explore in this, obviously) and a visual representation of my activities as described in this post.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-weight: normal; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLC33oEb4GN1ZUH_rflqaQbevI-ihbfY2Sd4I_N_blOMj50N5m6ScFyDQK-2pqPYqjsMN8i0Hq_0iJ2xa6JcQrKpbd7aGxWMh-nEweVWwibeuo1GghpSJgAxXzerpiqkVugnen7Ii6fLA/s320/P1030775.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586574592383202258" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></b></p>Rob Besthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09463964785697202357noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9070652898233554429.post-36309430287650804762011-03-14T11:46:00.000-07:002011-03-14T11:59:07.940-07:00Of Mice and Monkeys<div style="text-align: left;">Alright, after <a href="http://robswatsonadventure.blogspot.com/2011/03/masdar-city.html">my last long post about Masdar City</a>, I am finally ready to move on in my writing from Dubai to Delhi. <a href="http://robswatsonadventure.blogspot.com/2011/02/my-last-week-in-uae.html">Before I discussed Masdar, I left off on a jet to Delhi</a>, ready to start my adventures in India. Before landing in India, I had twice experienced developing nations—once in Kenya and once in China—and had seen just how different those two locations are. Nairobi, for example, is a very polluted city with dilapidated buildings, lots of small poorly maintained shops, and degraded public spaces. Shanghai and Beijing, on the other hand, are very appearance-conscious and thus maintain cleaner streets, better public areas, and visually pleasing building fronts of the most part even if the structures beneath are week or degraded. Given that India is more often compared to China than Kenya in the media, my anticipation was that Delhi would be more along the lines of Beijing than Nairobi as the country’s capital.</div> <p class="MsoNormal">When I arrived at the airport, the terminal certainly had a better appearance than Nairobi, and soon I was in a black and yellow cab bound for my cheap hotel in a sector of the city known as Paharganj. Yet on the entire drive there, I kept wondering “where’s the city?” Few lights lined the roads or the buildings and it seemed as though we were constantly traveling through suburban areas that were poorly maintained. Sidewalks were lacking, trees in need of trimming hung over roads littered with pollution, and no institutional buildings or skyscrapers could be seen. Driving was an adventure too, and all I can say is that I’m glad my cabbie seemed to know how to handle the roads because I would not want to be in his position. Only later did I learn that this all was just a normal trip through the heart of Delhi.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">We arrived at Paharganj and I must say that I was shocked by what met my eyes. Burning heaps of trash illuminated the visibly crumbling buildings lining a narrow street filled to the brim with motor scooters, cycle rickshaws, pedestrians, hawkers, stray dogs, and cows. The assault of toxic chemicals from the fires, manure, and putrid water lining the roads was a shock to my nose, as was the cacophony of barking, mooing, clanging of bells and dishes, and shouts of those selling vacation packages all over the nation. How could this be the capital of India?</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Finding my hotel was a challenge too, but thanks to a quasi-helpful man (he was helpful only until I had declined his offer for a several thousand dollar tour through the Indian state of Rajasthan), I found my way. Settling in to the dormitory room I had booked, I found myself alone in the four-bed room for the night. Well, or so I thought. After unpacking a bit, showering (in the cold water) and then lying down in my sleeping bag (I didn’t trust the cleanliness of the sheets provided), I saw my roommate appear. He poked his head out of a small space next to one of the other beds and tentatively emerged into the room. However when he saw me, my rodent roommate quickly scampered back into his hole, not to appear again until the next day. Throughout my four day stay, this little mouse made several cameos on my floor and, hopefully, none on my bed while I slept.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Needless to say, when I finally left that hotel in Paharganj after two separate stays of four and two days (I’ll explain why the punctuation in a moment), I was relieved to be in a bit cleaner area. Moreover, each morning I stayed there, I awoke with a headache because of the exhaust fumes of the motorbikes in the alley outside. The fumes entered the room and did not leave thereby perfuming it with the wonderful smell of diesel. Because of this, each morning I stayed in Paharganj, I rose to leave as early as possible and did not return until evening. The other reason for this was that simply leaving the street on which the hotel was located was a trial. Every other step, I was corralled by a “friend” trying to lure me into his shop for tea only to then try and sell me on a trip to Kashmir, Rajasthan, Goa, or some other location within India. Some even offered hash or ganja, others harder drugs, all of which I politely declined. I suppose a number of tourists get trapped in these schemes but I was determined not to become one of them. By leaving early, I often could avoid such hawkers, and returning late gave me an excuse to make a beeline to my hotel.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-weight: normal; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaUqnsiVnARJDcWo7nZ2SWOM6ShPrwTx-IwFVCQ4dox84aL0Uy6H1SO1_TLd-b4G0QTw5TPGz2g5a_IYp30Qaa-xIpdQv5mg5CeknVOwD1f_FrqQwgv1KB5ToQX564mVrB6rYs-btCNw8/s320/P1030397.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5584010362314768642" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">When I got to explore New Delhi, I was surprised that I could not for the life of me find a visible city center. Whereas Shanghai and Beijing, Dubai and Abu Dhabi, and even Nairobi have distinct downtowns with tall buildings and imposing edifices, Delhi seemed not to have the same. Certainly there was the area built by the British which is very monumental in nature, but there was no true center of town even there. The government buildings here were not tall and were masked by trees to the point where they were not visible from any great distance. The other remnants of the British occupation seemed so degraded and exploited by various uses that they too no longer represented a visual center of the town. Everything I passed seemed polluted and dilapidated—preventative maintenance seemed not to be a concept here, and sprawl rather than increased density seemed the norm. For someone interested in sustainability, both of these were interesting and disheartening trends. Sure I saw a lot of green space and trees, which should be good, but when it was covered over with litter, could it really be called greenery?</p> <p class="MsoNormal">A couple of young computer engineers I met in a park by Connaught Place explained this phenomenon to me by saying that people in India did not really care about throwing trash away properly. For many years they just discarded whatever was not used and so they continue this. Parents and grandparents carelessly throw away packaging and unwanted items and children mimic this. Unfortunately now, there is more trash and less natural trash than in days of yore when waste was mostly natural products. They said that this practice formed one of three cores of India—“Pollution, Population, Corruption” or PPC. This, they said, was all you need to know to understand the problems of India. Certainly, I thought, this was worth remembering and watching throughout my stay.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">As my first weekend approached, I figured it would be nice to get out of Delhi while I had a lot of flexibility and see if all cities were like this. When I found that the train to Agra to see the Taj Mahal was already full, I turned my sights elsewhere. With the help of Lonely Planet, I learned that not far from Delhi lay the city of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chandigarh">Chandigarh</a>, the first master-planned city in independent India done by none other than <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Le_Corbusier">Le Corbusier</a>. The architecture and planning enthusiast in me jumped at the chance to see a work by so famous, and controversial, a personality as Le Corbusier, and soon I had booked my tickets to and from the city.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-weight: normal; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFgG_9JADx-xAwAEEEKm_lxAsQd6aLGk-cijWb6Q6h1ua8YTCl5f5K0AXwpo4dDr-xy8zZUQ9a45Pgd6USNmqM8xlSTuv7jemXTzOGOBbKJuWttSycduWBAY9phIvdLVDOlKprOJnUx50/s320/P1030401.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5584010356178261618" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">I arrived after a pleasant journey to find a city completely unlike Delhi and very interesting in terms of its composition. Unlike the seemingly unplanned and sprawling Delhi, Chandigarh was a perfect grid laid out in Le Corbusier’s stark philosophy of straight lines and proportions in sectors. Keeping with his brutal and honest ideals, the buildings featured exposed materials (concrete and brick mostly) and appeared to me after 50 years of weathering as though they were stone or rock monuments cast starkly against the lush green trees in the foreground. Among these monoliths lay wide roads built for many more cars than Chandigarh now sees but at least, unlike most of India, featuring pedestrian and bicycle paths on which I could comfortably walk beneath the trees as I explored.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzT6LGFPoMMVuQERY6gjTI7CFdk_RnAb6zpsPNlsItKVeOrZAwP-k5ksBcOiutDLTyKNxd3PJNB3fRpMBs31v3oNb25ufoL3e56DsakwUUzjETOwxqBIX1dFFsYJQ3BgVxJtQPMg8CXak/s1600/P1030414.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzT6LGFPoMMVuQERY6gjTI7CFdk_RnAb6zpsPNlsItKVeOrZAwP-k5ksBcOiutDLTyKNxd3PJNB3fRpMBs31v3oNb25ufoL3e56DsakwUUzjETOwxqBIX1dFFsYJQ3BgVxJtQPMg8CXak/s320/P1030414.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5584010351691520754" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwpgt_O6tgoVvcQgyqUpzqoBQl2aed2f1aWaR8Fvn0GC3NF6TAOGYdorpacyDfcEwO-hjo5yri8N7w9NAITH_WHmDYw3z7ioWtWooi3oPuAvg7CzRQqpyjg2JOJbRUCnlycDr_bo6hUCI/s1600/P1030429.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwpgt_O6tgoVvcQgyqUpzqoBQl2aed2f1aWaR8Fvn0GC3NF6TAOGYdorpacyDfcEwO-hjo5yri8N7w9NAITH_WHmDYw3z7ioWtWooi3oPuAvg7CzRQqpyjg2JOJbRUCnlycDr_bo6hUCI/s320/P1030429.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5584010347971719522" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg34chPXpjC8-eYARzyB5TEzrKkCJc2blN821qeKWsDSLOiKRLVGUA0LHJWkpCcQtNfFT1u3S8RSaisMWKmpsrG89_sPId-HFbnTwv4qD5w3VoRogpCOTC2xgU5P91nmEOXHMDaQuUUBB8/s1600/P1030430.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg34chPXpjC8-eYARzyB5TEzrKkCJc2blN821qeKWsDSLOiKRLVGUA0LHJWkpCcQtNfFT1u3S8RSaisMWKmpsrG89_sPId-HFbnTwv4qD5w3VoRogpCOTC2xgU5P91nmEOXHMDaQuUUBB8/s320/P1030430.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5584010348242023666" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></span></b></p> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf1jSJms43tEmGC0Ejb-aKEjJwG70QV_ZQwNX3FDecgIp60rlpeG0xKmKoILBfdpF2Kkjh7vrEu9pwxPXPTRsSTSlMKNdU1hPlmAWpeEu4Sqcm1c-lX9erYfNW7rE5MrquN3XvVlDcVQ4/s1600/P1030433.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf1jSJms43tEmGC0Ejb-aKEjJwG70QV_ZQwNX3FDecgIp60rlpeG0xKmKoILBfdpF2Kkjh7vrEu9pwxPXPTRsSTSlMKNdU1hPlmAWpeEu4Sqcm1c-lX9erYfNW7rE5MrquN3XvVlDcVQ4/s320/P1030433.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5584010870386630354" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii70tgsgNxJ_kO8nZsJebdx4DQ6hu6vFx0sL40oRxiUwlO9vT6HMMnh3rH_-749VJ8qGxCpmheHB4zZlFfGcOFlBD2VkmE2GUgQDVK5fTZn8N6Tp1-VVSazYovz9-yvgLoj9GqskUrMRY/s1600/P1030434.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii70tgsgNxJ_kO8nZsJebdx4DQ6hu6vFx0sL40oRxiUwlO9vT6HMMnh3rH_-749VJ8qGxCpmheHB4zZlFfGcOFlBD2VkmE2GUgQDVK5fTZn8N6Tp1-VVSazYovz9-yvgLoj9GqskUrMRY/s320/P1030434.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5584010867437348050" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><p class="MsoNormal">My first stop was the architecture and planning museum which to me was a fascinating tour of the city’s history and transformation from a curving, organic plan by the original American designers to the grid of Le Corbusier. Le Corbusier’s fascination with the human form and its proportions was evident throughout the design, from the “head” of the city with the government offices (the only buildings he personally designed) to the “heart” of the shopping center right in the middle of the city and the “lungs” as the green belts throughout the city. Seeing how the city developed was really interesting, especially for me being interested in city development in India and other nations. From here, I went to learn more about the development and the man behind it all at the Le Corbusier museum. Here, fascinating letters showed how Nehru supported Le Corbusier and the back and forth between politicians, architects, and the master planner in how the city should be built and executed. Pictures told the story and showed the rise of the city and Le Corbusier’s architectural masterpieces at its head. The whole narrative was fascinating, and I encourage you to learn more about it if you have an interest in architecture or planning—it’s a fascinating story.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Perhaps what fascinated me most about it though was how much sustainability, though under different names, came into the planning. Long before that was a buzz word, Le Corbusier and his team were carefully planning how far would be reasonable for people to walk, what the best way to incorporate natural spaces into the city would be to provide fresh air and open space, and how to best incorporate both cars (seen as a needed form of transit) with pedestrians and cyclists. These questions are now part of the dialogue typical of sustainable cities, but to see them discussed back then was interesting to me. Le Corbusier focused heavily on the size of the sectors to ensure that each was walkable in 15-20 minutes by a typical pedestrian and that there would be quiet streets on which people would feel safe walking. He created 7 types of roads ranging from highways to pedestrian and cycle paths and ensured that both ends of the spectrum networked across the city so cars and people could easily and safely move. Such thoughts about segregation of traffic were very progressive for post-war India and certainly are unique to Chandigarh—Delhi on the other hand often lacks any pedestrian paths. Looking at Chandigarh, it seemed strange to me that so many of the innovations which Le Corbusier included are just now seeming to be rediscovered and included in planning and design. As controversial as his concrete and brick buildings may be, they do respond well to the climate without space conditioning (you will see A/Cs though because they are also filled far over capacity). It seems that between the time of Chandigarh and now, there was a period of lost knowledge that we are now overcoming. Some might argue that this was the freedom associated with central air-conditioning—suddenly architects no longer were bound by climate in designing and so could make what they wished; only when environmentalism and oil prices checked this philosophy did the climate science behind the older buildings get rediscovered.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Whatever the reason that Le Corbusier’s city seemed so advanced even now, it was fascinating to consider as I walked the streets and looked at the sectors. I even made it out to the artificial lake he created both to provide a place of relaxation and to help cool the climate while replenishing the groundwater. This was an important environmental feature for a forward-thinking city trying to ensure continued resource access.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-weight: normal; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSpyBGXMJaHjXK-d7Ntx3DsuNYZQlVy3ylmb4sVEvDUK30H_jcnIpKJUe1TNMFMsEZNuYlLmmLSY8HW3osZFv7rKIrNM2wf_8MSFZNWHXpX43bEjiEdMP19aatXNJ_7GEE1t0tP-dYRhs/s320/P1030450.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5584010866094357266" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">As I left, I met two students from the animation school in Chandigarh who kindly accompanied me for dinner at their favorite chicken restaurant. After some good food and good conversation, we parted ways and I headed back to my hotel for the evening.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-weight: normal; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIgXldelfoPgO1J_iNjeM6-TOj7c3FL3Sn6M1OFVE2xH4dNP7kHky0GxUqSNJNgQTACoUtMXLkyghn3W9J00TzqNVngqoFtAlu_bYdTbCL0Y7EtAFiUmmwsiOUMJ27vnJo3RetvfI5pbk/s320/P1030456.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5584010861638907330" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">The next morning I woke and headed to a very interesting place, and another adventure in sustainability in some way. Lonely Planet calls it a trip down one man’s rabbit hole into wonderland, and certainly that is true—stepping into the Nek Chand Fantasy Rock Garden is like stepping into a really interesting miniature wonderland. Built in secret by a road worker out of discarded objects he collected, the garden is now an Indian institution and a monument to the creativity of one man and the beauty that can result from a vision and lots of trash. Now I say this is a trip into the world of sustainability as well because this shows exactly what can be done with waste—it is not just for throwing away and decomposing. There is beauty in garbage, maybe not all of it, and maybe not everyone can see it, but rather than throwing things away, why not make art? Why not make a wonderland in your backyard? It certainly was an interesting visit and trip, and I recommend it if you can stop through—it’s an interesting morning.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7I5-6QLA-PrVgxlbOZGKrBkz_d1xUfVog-wIhfCJiZfkyaHyszNbQdbUxImoyoaIyg707ipymHfvnnQoh1bikWLNQ631xlK9hjL2DEZvv3sm6Cbh8sIQSk6p5cTeOLRG_e-9EStYznL4/s1600/P1030488.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7I5-6QLA-PrVgxlbOZGKrBkz_d1xUfVog-wIhfCJiZfkyaHyszNbQdbUxImoyoaIyg707ipymHfvnnQoh1bikWLNQ631xlK9hjL2DEZvv3sm6Cbh8sIQSk6p5cTeOLRG_e-9EStYznL4/s320/P1030488.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5584011390122860386" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_8AomE6dG-ogcI23pinRVwiG0-TAmaLkJJ2_bIao9KAtA5IXIqKQHsm7PZg9Fz_-D0UEkncXT7x9iSJcDJPbtFyqDr4TJVcVJbo831Fp6YAnlfrvzCs7wicyZDmSVTBsOyK3_i1D4cQQ/s1600/P1030523.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_8AomE6dG-ogcI23pinRVwiG0-TAmaLkJJ2_bIao9KAtA5IXIqKQHsm7PZg9Fz_-D0UEkncXT7x9iSJcDJPbtFyqDr4TJVcVJbo831Fp6YAnlfrvzCs7wicyZDmSVTBsOyK3_i1D4cQQ/s320/P1030523.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5584011386785413426" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2K60_CY5Ls_3GzsjAGtIRgoMbn4AEQ6VaNFJ4bT5zwCFLkdJyzKpuDbuW-_pqqA3M9c6uEGYC3IxZfBi43ry6B3W_M6ORfM614C_BRpKPShUc8xkz4edj1EJ7hpwXCknlbo8tFIfzG4s/s1600/P1030529.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2K60_CY5Ls_3GzsjAGtIRgoMbn4AEQ6VaNFJ4bT5zwCFLkdJyzKpuDbuW-_pqqA3M9c6uEGYC3IxZfBi43ry6B3W_M6ORfM614C_BRpKPShUc8xkz4edj1EJ7hpwXCknlbo8tFIfzG4s/s320/P1030529.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5584011382153258258" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">From here, I made a pilgrimage to the sites of Le Corbusier’s buildings—the government buildings he made in Chandigarh and his only actual works in the city. True to their pictures and his style, they featured exposed elements, monumental structures, and very intricate geometric patterns, mostly based on rectangles and squares. As an architectural buff, they were very interesting to view, even though I don’t know that I personally like the style. I certainly was impressed with but did not really like the Open Hand monument that was his crowning sculpture on the city and its symbol. For me, though, the whole trip was interesting simply to see the world of such a divisive and to this day controversial figure in architecture history.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-weight: normal; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDhU28Z2vuETELcUGm9cDSpSvxKy6oEMaTPxektebhqMmxZvcrtxXFk3ouqFp7radVrc3BrqPPtykXlLanbHesNN35s4Y6j18Jbqm6qP_wlXySJDzWB6gPKZqnru69VhR-2RHsrxBwE7s/s320/P1030448.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5584011379205785954" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></b></p><div><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-weight: normal; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2GnL6e6lmGepHtEOwOakv8Y-QnWulxP_HXju_RQIr0UyCL6QOlYGhri0623Uo2ZkUvsIJWUZIYVTGiv0C-YyfuK2Y4BjZt4MShRsFY0MUkAc5hLMlaSo1KHK1bEIVPvBuyMrtQfYOwoQ/s1600/P1030549.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2GnL6e6lmGepHtEOwOakv8Y-QnWulxP_HXju_RQIr0UyCL6QOlYGhri0623Uo2ZkUvsIJWUZIYVTGiv0C-YyfuK2Y4BjZt4MShRsFY0MUkAc5hLMlaSo1KHK1bEIVPvBuyMrtQfYOwoQ/s320/P1030549.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5584011808277136242" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSpQU6zQB1Zt-nttG-bi-P2V-3C_TUDwvXD4k-SD-Yy39IqgjNSpaWnvask7uQl990jlCADUuOnXrUbg7-O3Klut35r8JmVhQctqDDoJHcV5BuQ9F7DqkLQ-KDXYLOfcOOvLDqa-CwFYI/s1600/P1030550.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSpQU6zQB1Zt-nttG-bi-P2V-3C_TUDwvXD4k-SD-Yy39IqgjNSpaWnvask7uQl990jlCADUuOnXrUbg7-O3Klut35r8JmVhQctqDDoJHcV5BuQ9F7DqkLQ-KDXYLOfcOOvLDqa-CwFYI/s320/P1030550.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5584011804537227970" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinhuuy-QIvkR-Z5Kj_zf0taqVCLZDL3DPCYKrpWKiFGokcc9f1wEpRlGrWFniGbCePyGWoZz9XDX_HuytD8McnU0wjCxQp7gM6ubqqM62-F5jjMfJZ5odz81SlRoeG0pdzq3OeyJg5Rs0/s1600/P1030552.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinhuuy-QIvkR-Z5Kj_zf0taqVCLZDL3DPCYKrpWKiFGokcc9f1wEpRlGrWFniGbCePyGWoZz9XDX_HuytD8McnU0wjCxQp7gM6ubqqM62-F5jjMfJZ5odz81SlRoeG0pdzq3OeyJg5Rs0/s320/P1030552.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5584011797998702610" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqmDWvc1xqmUhLtO0KNOtkdIXQhTXkUJovcKBFnF467HTfQoatFQKdMtAcScqb9dir1wJZmvAtwB-FcXSSoGfnShRcL03jBX7hOH2pjFdQGGo-vI0qlVaLWaTFEsl1543Flt32_EfolQo/s1600/P1030554.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqmDWvc1xqmUhLtO0KNOtkdIXQhTXkUJovcKBFnF467HTfQoatFQKdMtAcScqb9dir1wJZmvAtwB-FcXSSoGfnShRcL03jBX7hOH2pjFdQGGo-vI0qlVaLWaTFEsl1543Flt32_EfolQo/s320/P1030554.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5584011793746670642" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></span></span></b></div> <p class="MsoNormal">From these structures, I headed through the beautiful rose garden which Le Corbusier planned within the city to spend my final hours before catching a train back to Delhi. I met here another new friend with whom I conversed for a while in the beauty of the garden near sunset before parting to catch our respective trains. Yet rather than have my day end nicely here, I have two more interesting experiences to relate.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-weight: normal; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRNONBOBOMeO9KGwq2tSUFC-IFDwzSuTS1jiujE6CQArzCWSWK1R1v8TA4vTQvk2iukLFno-p2qRcIy4yAeLb_Rvz1xQOZX78kUFBkFThgLzRYVuXSNocs8GUSU42rkB5uSmqyxREXBTQ/s320/P1030461.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5584010857963411346" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></span></b></p> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM6jL8BatbYCQQ5sbPPWDXg-IONuedKliv8aDEC5_ogxm5cePW9aOCcydLnv7QXfQpLMRCirgKVuYcxxsjGV4kjnyfONwe-EWHUMfrc0ZQm0zeHtikt7aJ3-7jKkPWPuQKjgIvEeSBGSM/s320/P1030462.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5584011395016346418" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span><p class="MsoNormal">One of the most interesting sights in India, and unfortunately one of the most common, is that of a rickshaw driver or pedestrian paused on the side of the road, facing a wall and relieving himself. Perhaps it is a lack of public facilities or just a cultural phenomenon whereby people are not bothered by such actions—perhaps it has been done for years and no one thinks anything of it. Either way, coming from a Western perspective, it bothers me mostly because it makes the city smell and I don’t really want to walk through other peoples’ urine on my daily strolls. Now this did not bother me in Chandigarh as I did not see it much, but what did bother me was that when I arrived at the train station, I found out part of the reason why this is still a problem in today’s world. Needing a pit stop before the train, I headed for the sign that said “Men’s Toilet.” As I started to walk in, I was stopped by a call from behind. Turning, I saw a man holding out his hand from behind a table. Confused, I looked quizzically at him until he pointed to a sign that explained it was 5 rupees to use the bathroom. I couldn’t believe it. I asked him incredulously if he wanted me to pay 5 rupees to use the urinal. He must’ve understood because he nodded, and I was astounded. Here guys were using the side of the station for a bathroom, and instead of trying to stop this, they were encouraging it by charging to urinate in a sanitary condition! I would’ve explained this to the man demanding money but I could tell it would have fallen on ears that only comprehended Hindi, so instead I took my money in disgust and walked away. That is the only time that I have felt compelled to use the wall to relieve myself, but I held my dignity until the train arrived.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">In the meantime occurred the other story with which I wanted to end my post, coming full circle to the title. As I waited for the train, I saw a little monkey sitting on the side of the tracks having a snack. By the time I went to photograph him, he had run away. Shrugging, I sat back until I realized that I had to cross to the other track to catch my train. I turned up the stairs and saw my little friend again, now sitting on the railing of the stairs. Pulling out my camera, I advanced a few steps suddenly the mother monkey jumped down onto the landing. I halted and brought the camera up, ready to shoot when suddenly the monkey screeched, bared its teeth and advanced a few steps toward me. Jumping, I ran back down the stairs, probably to the delight of the locals to whom, as a friend put it, monkeys are like squirrels. Only after the monkey had cleared the landing, did I dash up the landing and over to the proper platform quickly, careful not to be scared once more. In retrospect, the incident was funny, but at the time, that, as Lonely Planet calls them, “testosterone-charged macaque” had my heart beating and my mind visualizing monkey bites and rabies shots.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">So after a healthy scare by an angry monkey, I cruised safely back to Delhi and my mouse roommate at least for another night or two.</p>Rob Besthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09463964785697202357noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9070652898233554429.post-92004567963997910422011-03-10T23:59:00.000-08:002011-03-11T00:28:35.355-08:00Masdar City<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn2E13hnKnd-Lpdm4BoaNNhK16dBiqnC3tQjTkKM5jWbkIWVs-f16w65sIi_6cAjQDAw4mn7cBMI7_wrMOZQlJizD0-DOj_L9tTez2DqhXRzKbqHdlh7xwkGx_ShlEbzlgGuz8S2raBJo/s1600/P1030193.JPG"></a><div style="text-align: left;">For many in the green building field with whom I’ve met, the mention of Masdar City elicits a breathless reaction—a flash of amazement and hope at this unprecedented project. For readers unfamiliar with the project, Masdar was an undertaking of the Abu Dhabi government in 2006 to be the first zero carbon city in the world. From the beginning, it was considered by many to have the most ambitious targets of any eco-city plan. With the power of such a rich government behind the project, hopes were high that Masdar could overcome the challenges of predecessors such as Dongtan to become more than just a mirage in the sands and become the first constructed eco-city. In the years since its inception, the ambitions of Masdar have been tempered to a degree by reality, but this bold vision is still moving forward. This post will chronicle the history of Masdar to date and some of the perceptions of and responses to the project from my experiences in Dubai and Abu Dhabi.</div> <p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight:normal"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal">The Story</i></b><br />Masdar City was conceived by the government of Abu Dhabi in 2006 as an initiative to create a completely carbon neutral city of 6 sq km<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"> </b>[1]. Within the wave of eco-cities, this was unprecedented as it would target carbon emissions as a measure of success and strive to be completely zero-carbon. The project, as stated by the Abu Dhabi government, was to help Abu Dhabi become a leader in renewable energy technology in the face of diminishing oil and a rise in renewables as the energy sources of the future. Furthermore, since the majority of Abu Dhabi’s revenue is from oil which is not a sustainable income source in the long term, the government is actively developing a number of new economic areas to diversify for the future. Masdar is just one of these [2].</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The leaders of the project brought in renowned architect Norman Foster from London to develop the master plan for the city. Foster and his team considered the harsh desert environment of the United Arab Emirates, and asked themselves how it could be that people had lived here so successfully for years before the advent of air conditioning and modern technology. They found their answer in the winding, narrow streets of the old cities of the Arabian Peninsula. The result was a master plan that appears more like a dream than a blueprint for a modern city. Entirely built on an undercroft of several meters height, the city plan is oriented such that direct sun never strikes the facades of the buildings. Narrow alleys capture the cool breezes and sweep them past homes and offices, while the outside wall blocks the harsh desert winds that would blast the city in Abu Dhabi’s summers. Overhangs and vegetation are plentiful with solar panels often creating the dual function of shading and power generation [3].</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><img src="http://www.estatesdubai.com/uploaded_images/masdar-city-uae-749854.jpg" /></b></p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbGS0wvred1eGOKXs7AEIdWqCVSn-y6fgAU80muUbwPV4Ks-_IU1-2OfCTdK9CR6BinSgt7EAs7do8ZpMopAKs6tlCYqQmnSm_prjYpFtC34jogS4ijRoFofva1DIntl9QEm0QxZqxoCg/s1600/Masdar2.jpg" /></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Being a city planned from scratch, Foster and his team had the luxury of creating from scratch all of the city’s sewage, wastewater, and transportation infrastructure. Rather than dig into the sands for these functions, the team used the podium that helped elevate the streets from the harsh sands and winds to create an infrastructure undercroft. All waste (liquid and solid) would pass through this undercroft, and in an unprecedented and ambitious design move, so would all people moving great distances throughout the city. Foster and his team decided to create Masdar as a car-free city where transportation inside the walls would be accomplished with a system known as a Personal Rapid Transit, or PRT [4]. The PRT is essentially an updated version of Disney’s PeopleMover attraction from the 1964 World’s Fair [5]—a self-guided vehicle accommodating up to 4 passengers at a time. Unlike Disney’s version, however, these cars run from magnets, not on a track, and thus can be programmed to go to and from many destinations. Sensors in the vehicles detect and avoid obstacles all while the passengers have a comfortable ride [6]. In this manner, the entire area of the city could be easily and conveniently covered, solving the issue of the “last mile.” (For those unfamiliar with the problem of the last mile, it essentially means that although public transit is wonderfully efficient for moving people from transport hub to transport hub, there is not yet a clean, efficient solution for getting people from the hubs to their destinations—trains and buses cannot reach everywhere, and this distance is known as the last mile.)</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-weight: normal; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA4taZFwjLqgfcZiDKPSSRn4B7WyIWGi1DdSTxJYHNRKDGDF-1RCvkIpYeBuDTqgZD3Ns74GtI5AF_mOEVsBphQDyoDiav9ItxKSQeGIldyemv9k5g9IR6T3NTqZIhUQrCJyGUCkt7cDY/s320/P1030194.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5582732663082268402" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">To fill the goal of carbon neutrality, the entire city was to be powered on-site with renewable energy, the majority of which was to be generated by photovoltaic panels. These would be integrated into the rooftops of all buildings as well as located on a large on-site solar field. Excess power could be sold to the Abu Dhabi grid to offset any power drawn to fulfill the nighttime load at Masdar. Furthermore, solar would also be used for desalination of water for the city [7]. This is particularly important since Masdar (and Abu Dhabi) are located in water stressed areas (deserts).</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Though for many architects and engineers worldwide, the name “Masdar” is associated solely with this city initiative, “Masdar” as conceived by Abu Dhabi was a much larger initiative. Under the direction of Dr. Sultan al Jaber, the idea behind Masdar was not just to create a city but to create both a living laboratory for creating new technology to propel Abu Dhabi to the forefront of the sustainability industry and an investment fund for new technologies in the clean tech field [8]. To this end, collaborations with a number of international partners were created. To provide an influx of knowledge and trained clean tech experts in the region, Masdar reached out to the Massachusetts Institute of Technology to create the Masdar Institute of Science and Technology (MIST) [7]. The goal of the institution is to help observe and improve Masdar City through incubation of new technologies and partnerships with industrial players in the city. Graduates would then be poised to enter the clean tech work force in Masdar or Abu Dhabi themselves.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Other partnerships included Siemens, BASF, Hansgrohe, and Bayer, each of which agreed to locate a research and development center in the city and use the partnership with MIST to help advance clean technology and test their products in the city walls<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight:normal"> </b>[9]. Through initiatives such as these, Masdar both became a global player in the clean tech arena and generated methods of identifying and testing technology to be used at the city in Abu Dhabi.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Back at the city, Masdar cemented its city’s importance on a world stage by securing the support of the International Renewable Energy Agency (IRENA). An agreement forged between the two bodies would move the headquarters of IRENA to the model city as a show of support for the project and its importance. Masdar and IRENA were to be housed in the Masdar HQ building, designed by Adrian Smith +Gordon Gill to be built second within the city. The design won numerous international awards and much acclaim for its climate responsive features including multiple chimneys to funnel hot air out of the space below and a canopy of photovoltaic panels that were to make the building the largest zero net energy structure in the world [10]<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight:normal">.<o:p></o:p></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Construction began on Masdar in 2008<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"> </b>[11]. Rightly, in this author’s opinion, the first buildings to be constructed were those for MIST. Opening the university’s doors early would generate interest about the project and an on-site team to help solve problems that might arise in construction and management of the growing city. Slowly, the Middle Eastern style buildings rose from the sands atop the undercroft—their pedestal. Sandstone jalli screens undulated across the facades, letting light in while blocking much of the heat, and hiding modern laboratory facilities and dormitory rooms.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn2E13hnKnd-Lpdm4BoaNNhK16dBiqnC3tQjTkKM5jWbkIWVs-f16w65sIi_6cAjQDAw4mn7cBMI7_wrMOZQlJizD0-DOj_L9tTez2DqhXRzKbqHdlh7xwkGx_ShlEbzlgGuz8S2raBJo/s1600/P1030193.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn2E13hnKnd-Lpdm4BoaNNhK16dBiqnC3tQjTkKM5jWbkIWVs-f16w65sIi_6cAjQDAw4mn7cBMI7_wrMOZQlJizD0-DOj_L9tTez2DqhXRzKbqHdlh7xwkGx_ShlEbzlgGuz8S2raBJo/s320/P1030193.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5582733550731438450" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEB74Us0spsRt4dfaIN5YoBbOvLEar_KyqMeAYNa5uJiTgNs5rcpaNkRmyRHHiez4m9wT-LkmZuFnBxfmvwXDSHmcCLXsRnH3NqhqevPvwBY9l2J-jnOqlKtsTh8jZKxxsqwNvRyS-3Fc/s1600/P1030192.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEB74Us0spsRt4dfaIN5YoBbOvLEar_KyqMeAYNa5uJiTgNs5rcpaNkRmyRHHiez4m9wT-LkmZuFnBxfmvwXDSHmcCLXsRnH3NqhqevPvwBY9l2J-jnOqlKtsTh8jZKxxsqwNvRyS-3Fc/s320/P1030192.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5582733446034388226" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqs-0InoR0hiXT-RxZ3WdEq0RpXsGlgO6pZ7z_CLsRWea_cM33UU1D8xGov74-r9Fuqpc-SzvchsmGvl8xt5hDu_Sgz4CFSkefPMBLved5Yt-s1zrWtmWLhMFPO3-wXAdHssBO2DIW7v0/s1600/P1030188.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqs-0InoR0hiXT-RxZ3WdEq0RpXsGlgO6pZ7z_CLsRWea_cM33UU1D8xGov74-r9Fuqpc-SzvchsmGvl8xt5hDu_Sgz4CFSkefPMBLved5Yt-s1zrWtmWLhMFPO3-wXAdHssBO2DIW7v0/s320/P1030188.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5582733439310867442" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></span></b></p><p class="MsoNormal">Photovoltaic panels atop the roofs generated electricity for university use with a large central tower using a color display to visually signal whether energy use was too high or just right. Creatively architected buildings formed a campus center and auditorium, and cafes were included to make student life in the remote desert more bearable. In 2009, MIST opened its doors to its first crop of graduate students, all Master’s level, with the Ph.D. program to be added in a subsequent year [12].</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "></span></b></p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align: center; "><b><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiETU6AsOpouOya0XzWPT9so_R7VjPq3aXki0gVquOhr5zUyGOofdD3o6N1-guRhdrlUR7dRoh3qysJNWhmTc3NnJ2CyaOeFTR0oIFvBKmyGUOdgPrpfCEMOBi-AY5cbZFfs2caxKLOFc/s1600/P1030170.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiETU6AsOpouOya0XzWPT9so_R7VjPq3aXki0gVquOhr5zUyGOofdD3o6N1-guRhdrlUR7dRoh3qysJNWhmTc3NnJ2CyaOeFTR0oIFvBKmyGUOdgPrpfCEMOBi-AY5cbZFfs2caxKLOFc/s320/P1030170.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5582733440324845474" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFqsRVtL__cEB8yfJK-fefQ6TWUdQmlCdqepGDqLikS3X80BHl9428NUowBSdMPbsEdTi9_SspykaYw_H3ZgVs7keXiYAWrlMCxtMx71CzsTN-ma36ibO9sC3wHdNjaMXqDfiNhs34HUQ/s1600/P1030169.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFqsRVtL__cEB8yfJK-fefQ6TWUdQmlCdqepGDqLikS3X80BHl9428NUowBSdMPbsEdTi9_SspykaYw_H3ZgVs7keXiYAWrlMCxtMx71CzsTN-ma36ibO9sC3wHdNjaMXqDfiNhs34HUQ/s320/P1030169.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5582733432513964354" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsubA8jOMm60M038v8qiLF9IzJGkMV4mG3kiDyaMg62C4LhBfoxF0PqPfDB0qnwC-ovwsGRDLHOKrymoqgDgeoG8gfFVTKhwHwQXnJeP5B4Ra7Ok-CsQRoc4-Ij5QyZpL3heFvo_f03rg/s1600/P1030166.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsubA8jOMm60M038v8qiLF9IzJGkMV4mG3kiDyaMg62C4LhBfoxF0PqPfDB0qnwC-ovwsGRDLHOKrymoqgDgeoG8gfFVTKhwHwQXnJeP5B4Ra7Ok-CsQRoc4-Ij5QyZpL3heFvo_f03rg/s320/P1030166.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5582733422084881586" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></span></b></b></p><p></p> <p class="MsoNormal">If things for Masdar had continued entirely on the original plan, we all would be eagerly awaiting the arrival of the carbon neutral city within the decade and marveling at the miracles rising from Abu Dhabi’s sands. Unfortunately, as the leaders of Masdar have said publicly multiple times, reality set in during construction, leading to some unexpected delays and changes to the plans.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight:normal"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal">What Happened<br /></i></b>About the middle of 2010, a rash of news articles announced that Masdar was faltering a bit. Work was already reported to be behind schedule, tests of photovoltaic panels were not yielding the expected returns, investments from the private sector were behind schedule, and a wave of departures rocked Masdar’s internal appearance.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The first signal of trouble was an article by Joyce Njeri highlighting Masdar’s decision to delay the city’s launch by a year from 2017 to 2018 to allow investigation of geothermal energy as a possibility for the city [13]. The article stresses that financial constraints were not a factor in this decision and that it is about making the most optimal decisions for the city to provide stable, renewable energy. Within three months, however, Masdar’s official position on its own finances had changed. Speaking to the New York Times, Alan Frost, one of Masdar’s leaders, stated that the company had cut costs by laying off 34 staff members and was considering limiting the PRT to only the MIST campus. Furthermore, power was no longer to be generated entirely on-site but instead, Masdar would import “green” power from plants built further out in the Abu Dhabi desert, supposedly to cut costs and improve feasibility [14]. Yet despite this, in every official report, Frost and Dr. Sultan al Jaber insisted that Masdar was neither scaling down or reducing its targets [15]. However even with these public proclamations, the plan of Masdar quietly submitted to review in March, 2010, with a release of a revised plan scheduled for the summer [16].</p> <p class="MsoNormal">During this time, however, the news for Masdar wasn’t all bad. In April, an association with the US Department of Energy was announced to share information and expertise on carbon neutral cities, attract clean tech firms, and use advanced solar panel technology for the city [17]. Yet right on the heels of this announcement came the mourned loss of the city-wide PRT and the car-free goal of the city. Believing it not to be technologically feasible, Masdar’s leaders unofficially sacked the PRT system in April (the official announcement did not come until October, but throughout the summer, Masdar shied away from the system in public comments) [18]. This was followed by an article in July documenting that Masdar was having trouble generating as much electricity as anticipated from photovoltaic panels because of the extremely dusty conditions and sandstorms in Abu Dhabi [19, 20]. Coupled with announcements pushing back the completion date to 2020 and beyond and the layoffs mentioned by Frost earlier in the year, many were wondering about the future of the city and eagerly awaiting the results of the internal review.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">In October, several months later than originally anticipated, Masdar finally released its review of the city’s progress to date. It admitted that construction had fallen behind, but attributed this largely to extra time taken in identifying solutions and overcoming unexpected problems such as deficiencies in solar panel efficiencies due to sand and dust. The new plan revealed officially that the PRT would be confined to the MIST campus for now and that due to a shortfall of demand (likely partly attributable to the recession), the build out would be much slower, lasting until 2025. Furthermore, power generation would be diverted primarily to larger plants in the desert and not rooftop panels [21].</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The rash of changes and new plan for Masdar’s expansion and construction prompted critics to proclaim the demise of the city and question the internal leadership. This prompted Dr. al Jaber to defend specifically Masdar’s spending and plan, calling them sustainable and long-term [22].At the same time, he reiterated once more that the city was neither scaling back nor scaling down despite the new plan and changes. Yet despite these proclamations, a similar article in the Gulf news source Construction Week highlighted that IRENA’s move to Abu Dhabi hinges on the successful completion of Masdar [23]. The timing of this article almost indicates questioning of the official Masdar rhetoric in the minds of the folks at IRENA.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">With all of these recent changes to Masdar’s ambitious plans, it is easy to question the project’s success, goals, and strategies. In light of the failures of Dongtan and Huangbaiyu, it is not even a stretch to fear that Masdar may go the way of these predecessors. Yet is this a possibility or just an irrational fear? And what do Masdar’s changes mean to those around it? And perhaps most importantly, can Masdar set an example for the future in the Middle East and beyond?</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight:normal"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal">Putting It All Together</i></b><br />I want to begin by weighing in on the possibility that Masdar may go the way of Dongtan and Huangbaiyu. Certainly it is possible that this city could fail in the next 15 years—such a long build-out could yet be wrought with financial and technological pitfalls. To shed some light on the possibilities, I want to go back to consider some of the factors of stakeholder networks I discussed in <a href="http://robswatsonadventure.blogspot.com/2010/11/tale-of-four-cities.html">my posts on China’s eco-cities</a> and use this lens to view the Masdar City project.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">As a quick refresher for those who read my China posts a while back (or summary for my new readers), using the examples of failure in <a href="http://robswatsonadventure.blogspot.com/2010/11/tale-of-four-cities-chapter-1.html">Dongtan</a> and <a href="http://robswatsonadventure.blogspot.com/2010/12/tale-of-four-cities-chapter-3.html">Huangbaiyu</a>, I attempted to demonstrate that a necessary criterion (for my math and science professors out there, I don’t claim sufficiency as well) for eco-city success in China was a strong network of stakeholders at multiple levels of governance and across economic, social, and governmental sectors. I do not claim that this is a new idea in the realm of environmental projects—in fact I have to credit the thought to studies and papers I read as part of my environmental politics courses at Harvey Mudd. However, in both of the Chinese examples, I tried to show that one of the contributing factors to the downfall of the cities was a failure at a key level in the stakeholder network. Using this backdrop, I explained why <a href="http://robswatsonadventure.blogspot.com/2010/12/tale-of-four-cities-chapter-4.html">Tianjin</a> is progressing in a stronger manner than these two projects and projected why <a href="http://robswatsonadventure.blogspot.com/2010/12/tale-of-four-cities-chapter-2.html">Caofeidian</a> may too succeed in its aims. Using this framework, I now want to discuss Masdar.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">As with the other cities, I will begin by examining the major stakeholders in Masdar City. Unlike Tianjin and Caofeidian which financially and politically are backed by two nations, Masdar is almost entirely backed solely by the Abu Dhabi government. Masdar is an initiative of the government, is owned by a government-controlled company (Mubadala), and has been financed solely with money from the Abu Dhabi government. Several residents of the UAE with whom I conversed indicated that strong political will from a top minister in the government has driven the Masdar project to date, though I cannot cite nor rely on these anecdotal accounts. Within the government, there is support from Masdar both through the Abu Dhabi Urban Planning Council and the Abu Dhabi Environment Agency, but this support is limited to joint efforts to gather knowledge and execute projects—there is no financial support from these agencies, nor is there regulatory or oversight support.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Masdar has attracted some international governmental support. During my visit to Masdar, I had the privilege of seeing US Secretary of State Hilary Clinton address MIST professors and students. She pledged US support for the project, and two weeks later, an initiative between the US Department of Energy and Masdar was announced to test solar panel technology developed in the US National Labs at Masdar City [24]. There were at one points reports of a Swiss Village within the city as well [25], but there are rumors that the plans have fallen through.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">In the realm of commercial and economic actors, Masdar is heavily reliant on investments initiated through the start-up funds granted by the Abu Dhabi government. The project has invested in wind, solar, and other energy generation projects worldwide to provide long-term funding for the Masdar Future Energy Company, the overall executor of Masdar City. In the future, it is likely that these investments will help Masdar as a company become self-sufficient, but in the short-term they are not enough to finance the city development. Again, much of this funding to date has originated in the Abu Dhabi government largely because the projects have been institutional in nature (the MIST campus, for example, and now the Masdar HQ building which will house Masdar and IRENA in addition to some commercial tenants).</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Much of the remaining development will be in different sectors (commercial and residential) and is predicated on interest from potential occupants. Sales and agreements for rentals of space will help finance the development and back loans for the project. For this, Masdar is targeting large companies with an interest in the clean tech space such as Siemens so as to create a “Clean Tech Cluster” to spur innovation and become a global center for sustainable technology [26]. Anchoring this will be research headquarters for GE and Bayer [27]. Though these companies sign agreements to occupy space in Masdar, planning of the buildings and construction is to be executed and overseen by Masdar with only some input from the tenant companies.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">In the realm of social organizations and community stakeholders, there are yet to be homeowners with a vested stake in Masdar as the properties have not yet been developed in concept to the point of being ready for sale. As for NGOs and civil society organizations (aside from corporations), there is definitely interest in seeing the city complete but no financial or even political support to a significant degree. Certainly IRENA has a stake in the city’s completion in relation to its headquarters, but based on the statements from articles on the agreement, it seems as though IRENA could move elsewhere easily should Masdar fail to meet its goals—three other European countries were in contention before Masdar ultimately won out [28]. Certainly MIT also has a stake in Masdar through MIST as it invested time, energy, and some money into the programs at the new university. Beyond the campus confines, MIT likely has interest in the city as a test bed for new energy and sustainability initiatives, but it is not a development partner.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The result of all of this creates a very lopsided web of stakeholders with the majority of the links leading back to the Abu Dhabi government. Though it has partnerships with many other companies and groups, Masdar is primarily supported by the government of Abu Dhabi politically and financially. It is a city built on the will of an emirate to diversify its economy and create an image as a cultural center. While there is support from other governments for the project, it is not a significant stake in relation to the overall project size and finances. The interest from these governments is either technical (US) or to provide economic opportunity for indigenous companies (Switzerland) and is not sufficient to help support the project should funding or will from Abu Dhabi falter. Similarly, in the corporate sector there are several flagship companies which plan to locate in Masdar City, but like IRENA, the reason for choosing Masdar disappears if the project is not completed to its fullest extent (or close to it). Since there is market potential for these companies in the actual execution of the city they may be more willing to support the city in a technical consulting role should that be necessary. However I find it unlikely that a company such as GE or Siemens would help finance or drive the project should it begin to falter. NGOs and environmental groups supporting the project are even more fickle—reading through blogs and press releases shows that such groups are apt to change their opinion quickly from glowing reviews and optimism to pessimism at the first sign of failure.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">However before comparing entirely to the case I argued in China, it is worth considering the strength of the political will behind Masdar and the level from which it comes. In both Dongtan and Huangbaiyu, which were backed by a single political figure on the Chinese side, the level of the official was much lower than that of in Masdar. In Masdar, the backing is coming from the highest levels of the Abu Dhabi government, not a city or district level official. Furthermore, the political system in Abu Dhabi is such that the backing of a top member of government carries much more weight than in China. Take the case of neighboring Dubai, for example. The reason that there are Palm Islands and a map of the world in the ocean is all the result of a vision by His Highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid al Maktoum. Similarly, when he proclaimed that in January 2008 all buildings must be LEED Silver or better, suddenly everyone knew the terminology of green. (Note: Due to the recession and lack of codifying that mandate into the building regulations it has not been followed, but if you look at trends in LEED project registration in Dubai, there is a huge spike after 2008 because of the mandate.)</p> <p class="MsoNormal">It was explained to me by several people that action in the UAE comes from the top. When a leader makes a proclamation, there is a rush to follow it. So, if His Highness Sheikh Khalifa bin Zayed al Nahyan makes a statement that Abu Dhabi will be a center of culture and the future energy hub of the world, then supporting organizations will fall in line to make this happen. For Masdar, this means that the word and backing of the ruler could be enough to ensure that the project occurs successfully. However, for this to happen, two conditions have to be met: 1) the current ruler stays in power with the same objective and 2) Abu Dhabi’s financial success and ability to back the ambitious project continues uninterrupted.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Let’s take a look at the first point. It certainly seems likely that given the ambitious plans for Abu Dhabi that His Excellency Sheikh Khalifa has <a href="http://www.upc.gov.ae/abu-dhabi-2030.aspx?lang=en-US">laid out until 2030</a>, of which Masdar is a key part, his mind will not change any time soon. He has a vision for the emirate that, in my opinion, is to help elevate the capital above the prominence of its better known neighbor up the peninsula. Given the money already sunk into this ambitious plan (the construction of Yas Island, Al Raha Beach, and other areas), it seems unlikely that he will shift course. Given the sheikh’s age (63), it also appears unlikely that he will be removed from power soon and his authority reversed by the following ruler.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Now let’s consider the second factor—finances. Just in reading the news articles and following the development of Masdar, it is easy to see that the political and economic framework in place is not immune to external and market forces. The admission by top leaders that investments are not flowing in as predicted is evidence that the financial backing of Abu Dhabi alone is not enough inertia to keep the project on its originally projected course. Furthermore, Abu Dhabi recently had to bail out and refinance one of its major developers, Aldar; Aldar is now a partner in the Masdar project as well [29]. This signals that the political will from the Abu Dhabi government is certainly strong enough to liquidate funds when necessary in support of the ambitious projects but also that Abu Dhabi is not immune to market forces. Extended build outs and dropping demand have taken a toll on both Aldar and Masdar and are resulting in both groups reorganizing their plans. Because Abu Dhabi is financed predominantly on oil wealth (unlike Dubai which built based on an unsustainable real estate bubble until 2008) it is likely to have a stable source of income for the foreseeable future. The question only remains as to whether there will come a point when it is felt that the money is better spent on another project rather than Masdar. Thus the effect of a change in finances is not likely to end Masdar City but may scale it back as is currently being seen.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">So, putting this all together, because of the political structure and ability to direct funds where the leaders of the government deem necessary, the fact that there is only one main backer of Masdar City may not be as much a problem as would be the same situation in China. However because of changing political and economic tides, it could result in a smaller or scaled down version of the city and in fact, may have already. Thus if the definition of success or failure is limited just to whether the city was completed as planned, then the one-party backing very well could imperil Masdar City’s success. However in the next section I will offer some collected thoughts and opinions on what the definition of success should be as it pertains to Masdar.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight:normal"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal">Too Ambitious?</i></b><br />Reading the blogs about Masdar following last year’s announcements about redoing the build out plan for the city, one finds a number of commentators feeling disillusioned and bemoaning the death of this city which had been seen as a model for the future and hope for carbon neutral urban living. Certainly these skeptics have reason to be disappointed—looking at the official wording on Masdar has seen it switch from a “zero-carbon” city to a “carbon-neutral” city (there is a difference between the two) to a “city powered by on-site renewable energy” to a “city powered entirely by renewable energy” not all of which will be on-site. The logical thought then becomes “if a place like Abu Dhabi with great oil wealth cannot achieve a carbon neutral city, what hope is there for the poorer nations among us?” The next step for many is then the disillusionment and feeling of failure on the part of Masdar.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">At the same time that many sigh at the perceived failure already of Masdar, others shrug and offer that the plan was too ambitious from the start. Though the city had a very intelligent passive design, it relied heavily as well on new technology, much of which is largely unproven or untested on a city-wide scale. While Masdar was meant to provide this test-bed, trying to include all of these technologies at once may have just been too much. In an attempt to provide every luxury to residents in an environmentally-friendly manner, Masdar may have bitten off more than they could chew. This spirit seems to imply that the project was doomed from the beginning.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">However there are other viewpoints. Many architects and engineers with whom I met shared some of the disappointment initially, perhaps guided by the idealist or environmentalist in them who really wanted the project to succeed. Yet this was quickly followed by saying that modifying the initial goals of the city is not failure on the part of Masdar. Many pointed to the fact that ideas from Masdar’s planning such as shading of sidewalks, passive design features, and the integrated design process have been strongly incorporated into Abu Dhabi’s Urban Plan 2030 and Estidama green building rating system as a sign of early success. These same experts were also optimistic that more developments would come from the living laboratory of Masdar on best practices for energy and water generation within the arid climate of the UAE. They saw the new goals as a smart reality check that could be used to fuel innovation in the right direction in Masdar rather than blindly following a plan simply because it was the originally stated goal. Thus, even though the city may not fulfill its original goals it may still yet succeed, these experts claimed. If it produces new research for the region, it will have succeeded.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">However, to succeed on this level, Masdar will need more integration with the surrounding community. At this point, the city has developed to an extent within a silo. For example, some of the press releases about the city have proclaimed that one of the reasons for abandoning rooftop photovoltaic panels throughout the city was the discovery that sand in the air in Abu Dhabi inhibited power production. The press releases treated this as new research, when in fact similar studies or knowledge has been available in the region and around the world for years. Similarly, Masdar is proud of having developed lists of green suppliers of materials in the Gulf region, yet no other developer had seen Masdar’s list as yet. Furthermore, each developer or consultant with whom I met seemed to be developing their own list of green suppliers and materials. Therefore, for Masdar to be a success in this arena, it must break out of its silo and inform the broader community of its progress and achievements frequently and in an open manner. It is not enough just to influence the Abu Dhabi plan and norms—the architecture and engineering community must also be included.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight:normal"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal">The Sustainability of Masdar</i></b><br />The point I made in the last paragraph speaks, in my opinion, to the question of whether Masdar will be a “sustainable” city or not. Even if it had achieved its carbon-neutral goal, this question would still be a valid one in my opinion. Many get caught up in “sustainable” as it pertains to environmental impacts. The scope of the word can often be limited to the environmental impact as quantified within some bounds. However financial, social, and cultural sustainability must be included in any true assessment of the overall sustainability of a city or project. There is little question that Masdar will be environmentally friendly in some capacity, but consideration of the social and cultural factors must be independent of the environmental aspects of the city. Many online sources have questioned the financial sustainability of Masdar in terms of its replicability simply because it is a city built on money acquired from sale of a resource which few outside of the Middle East possess. Thus the capital required cannot be replicated easily on a broader scale. While this is important to note, I believe that many countries could find some mechanism for financing cities such as Masdar in stages should it be necessary. Therefore I do not want to address this question. Instead I want to turn to the question of social sustainability.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">One author, Nicolai Ourossoff, blasted Masdar in the New York Times, claiming that the city was just a new form of segregation and social exclusion. His arguments of eco-exclusion (creating in the name of something good a city which is only accessible to the rich and condemning the poor to a higher impact lifestyle) has been echoed in reference to other eco-city projects worldwide [30]. Certainly Ourossoff has a point in that true sustainability within a city requires a cross-section of the population to be present and ideally should not include such features as perimeter walls which separate rather than invite. Importing 50,000 workers a day from nearby Abu Dhabi is not a sustainable solution, and unless the workers can be shown not to be emitting carbon on their transportation, also would make the city inherently miss its goal of carbon neutrality. Unfortunately because of the expense and image associated with Masdar, it had no choice but to make all residential space high-end. However this means that the city should not be copied wholesale as a sustainable model for the future. The Masdar model must be adapted to include lower-cost housing if it is to become a sample that can be adapted.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">From my conversations, the exclusivity of Masdar seemed also to permeate into the professional world as well. Some architects and engineers felt it was hard to earn projects for the city or to have their voices heard by the decision makers and many had yet to see significant ripples through the region as a result of the project. Though all lauded its aims and strategies, in my opinion, sustainability means sharing knowledge with those around such that the whole region can support Masdar in its goals. The city cannot develop in a silo—it must rely on the surrounding infrastructure for people, finances, materials, and resources, and therefore it must work to improve this area as well as that within its walls. Certainly to maintain a financially sustainable business Masdar must withhold some knowledge, but that can be pertaining to aspects of the project’s execution, not to material availability, available technology, and design methodologies. Part of the community sustainability of any project must include enhancing and supporting the professional community around the project, and aside from issuing contracts, Masdar has yet to proactively do this. Such initiatives are starting, spurred in part by the Abu Dhabi Environment Agency, the Emirates Green Building Council, and the UAE Business Council for Sustainable Development, but they are slow in coming.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight:normal"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal">The Future of Masdar</i></b><br />For those who are feeling a bit of despair about the missed targets of Masdar, the beacon of urban environmental hope, do not fear—the project is not going away any time soon, or at least it does not seem so. Certainly it has faced some challenges and will have more, but with the focus of the world on the project it seems as though it will succeed in some form. Regardless of its final form, if it can inform the professional community on what it means to create an environmentally-friendly urban environment in the desert, it will be a success (Note: an important question to consider that I did not discuss and leave for you is whether “sustainable desert city” is an oxymoron—some would argue that it is, others point to historical precedent and say it is not—you decide). As for myself, I look forward to watching this project eagerly over the next 15 years to see how it progresses and changes (because it undoubtedly will change) with the hope that when it is finished, it will have developed into a smarter, more realistic city that has lessons which can be adapted to other urban spaces in the Gulf region and beyond. Many I have met in the UAE, India, and China see it as the most advanced city in the world at least environmentally, and I still share this optimism despite the changing plans for Masdar. I hope that the coming years will prove us right, and not the skeptics.</p> <p class="MsoNoSpacing">--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------</p> <p class="MsoNoSpacing"><b>References</b></p> <p class="MsoNoSpacing">[1]<b> </b><a href="http://www.masdarcity.ae/en/index.aspx">http://www.masdarcity.ae/en/index.aspx</a></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing"><a href="http://www.masdarcity.ae/en/index.aspx"></a>[2]<b> </b><a href="http://gsec.abudhabi.ae/Sites/GSEC/Content/EN/PDF/Publications/plan-abu-dhabi-mandate-and-executive-summary,property=pdf.pdf">http://gsec.abudhabi.ae/Sites/GSEC/Content/EN/PDF/Publications/plan-abu-dhabi-mandate-and-executive-summary,property=pdf.pdf</a></p> <p class="MsoNoSpacing">[3] <a href="http://www.fosterandpartners.com/Projects/1515/Default.aspx">http://www.fosterandpartners.com/Projects/1515/Default.aspx</a></p> <p class="MsoNoSpacing">[4] “Why Is Masdar City Sustainable?” Pamphlet by Masdar, Revised March 2010</p> <p class="MsoNoSpacing">[5]<b> </b><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1964_World's_Fair">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1964_World's_Fair</a></p> <p class="MsoNoSpacing">[6] <a href="http://www.masdarcity.ae/en/Publication/PDF/MC%20EXPLORING%20TOUR%20BOOKLET_REV.pdf">http://www.masdarcity.ae/en/Publication/PDF/MC%20EXPLORING%20TOUR%20BOOKLET_REV.pdf</a></p> <p class="MsoNoSpacing">[7] <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Masdar_City">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Masdar_City</a></p> <p class="MsoNoSpacing">[8] “What is a Cleantech Cluster?” Pamphlet by Masdar, Revision 2, March 2010</p> <p class="MsoNoSpacing">[9] <a href="http://www.hansgrohe-mea.com/cps/rde/xbcr/SID-EEE766DB-3784FA96/mea_en/publications/INT/press_091030_Hansgrohe_Masdar_City_Project.pdf">http://www.hansgrohe-mea.com/cps/rde/xbcr//SID-EEE766DB-3784FA96/mea_en/publications/INT/press_091030_Hansgrohe_Masdar_City_Project.pdf</a></p> <p class="MsoNoSpacing">[10] <a href="http://usa.autodesk.com/adsk/servlet/item?siteID=123112&id=15714631">http://usa.autodesk.com/adsk/servlet/item?siteID=123112&id=15714631</a></p> <p class="MsoNoSpacing">[11] <a href="http://gulfnews.com/business/construction/abu-dhabi-s-masdar-city-gets-off-to-virtual-start-1.83934">http://gulfnews.com/business/construction/abu-dhabi-s-masdar-city-gets-off-to-virtual-start-1.83934</a></p> <p class="MsoNoSpacing">[12] <a href="http://www.masdar.ac.ae/aboutus/FastFacts.php">http://www.masdar.ac.ae/aboutus/FastFacts.php</a></p> <p class="MsoNoSpacing">[13] <a href="http://english.alrroya.com/content/new-technology-delay-masdar-city-one-year">http://english.alrroya.com/content/new-technology-delay-masdar-city-one-year</a></p> <p class="MsoNoSpacing">[14] <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/gwire/2010/03/17/17greenwire-financial-woes-crimp-celebrated-middle-east-gr-91007.html">http://www.nytimes.com/gwire/2010/03/17/17greenwire-financial-woes-crimp-celebrated-middle-east-gr-91007.html</a></p> <p class="MsoNoSpacing">[15] <a href="http://www.wam.org.ae/servlet/Satellite?c=WamLocEnews&cid=1275390598068&p=1135099400124&pagename=WAM/WamLocEnews/W-T-LEN-FullNews">http://www.wam.org.ae/servlet/Satellite?c=WamLocEnews&cid=1275390598068&p=1135099400124&pagename=WAM/WamLocEnews/W-T-LEN-FullNews</a></p> <p class="MsoNoSpacing">[16] <a href="http://www.ameinfo.com/227021.html">http://www.ameinfo.com/227021.html</a></p> <p class="MsoNoSpacing">[17] <a href="http://www.businessgreen.com/business-green/news/2262181/government-inks-masdar-deal">http://www.businessgreen.com/business-green/news/2262181/government-inks-masdar-deal</a></p> <p class="MsoNoSpacing">[18] <a href="http://precipblog.blogspot.com/2010/04/masdar-city-backs-away-from-major-goal.html">http://precipblog.blogspot.com/2010/04/masdar-city-backs-away-from-major-goal.html</a></p> <p class="MsoNoSpacing">[19] <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/gwire/2010/04/27/27greenwire-green-city-builders-facing-technological-finan-77419.html?pagewanted=1">http://www.nytimes.com/gwire/2010/04/27/27greenwire-green-city-builders-facing-technological-finan-77419.html?pagewanted=1</a></p> <p class="MsoNoSpacing">[20] <a href="http://www.greentechmedia.com/articles/read/masdar-update/">http://www.greentechmedia.com/articles/read/masdar-update/</a></p> <p class="MsoNoSpacing">[21] “Masdar to be Scaled Down,” by Ben Watts for Build Green magazine</p> <p class="MsoNoSpacing">[22] <a href="http://www.constructionweekonline.com/article-10142-al-jaber-insists-masdar-spending-is-sustainable/">http://www.constructionweekonline.com/article-10142-al-jaber-insists-masdar-spending-is-sustainable/</a></p> <p class="MsoNoSpacing">[23] <a href="http://www.constructionweekonline.com/article-10140-irena-abu-dhabi-deal-hinges-on-masdar-success/">http://www.constructionweekonline.com/article-10140-irena-abu-dhabi-deal-hinges-on-masdar-success/</a></p> <p class="MsoNoSpacing">[24] <a href="http://www.constructionweekonline.com/article-11206-masdar-and-us-dust-off-solar-panel-tech/">http://www.constructionweekonline.com/article-11206-masdar-and-us-dust-off-solar-panel-tech/</a></p> <p class="MsoNoSpacing">[25] <a href="http://www.swissinfo.ch/eng/Home/Archive/Abu_Dhabis_eco_city_gets_Swiss_touch.html?cid=979530">http://www.swissinfo.ch/eng/Home/Archive/Abu_Dhabis_eco_city_gets_Swiss_touch.html?cid=979530</a></p> <p class="MsoNoSpacing">[26] <a href="http://www.constructionweekonline.com/article-9850-siemens-makes-move-in-to-masdar/">http://www.constructionweekonline.com/article-9850-siemens-makes-move-in-to-masdar/</a></p> <p class="MsoNoSpacing">[27] <a href="http://www.masdarcity.ae/en/Publication/PDF/MC%20NEW%20BROCHURE%20FINAL%20LOWRES.pdf">http://www.masdarcity.ae/en/Publication/PDF/MC%20NEW%20BROCHURE%20FINAL%20LOWRES.pdf</a></p> <p class="MsoNoSpacing">[28] <a href="http://www.constructionweekonline.com/article-10140-irena-abu-dhabi-deal-hinges-on-masdar-success/">http://www.constructionweekonline.com/article-10140-irena-abu-dhabi-deal-hinges-on-masdar-success/</a></p> <p class="MsoNoSpacing">[29] <a href="http://www.constructionweekonline.com/article-10210-abu-dhabis-aldar-may-get-billions-in-state-cash/">http://www.constructionweekonline.com/article-10210-abu-dhabis-aldar-may-get-billions-in-state-cash/</a></p> <p class="MsoNoSpacing">[30] <a href="http://mobile.nytimes.com/article?a=669116&single=1&f=20">http://mobile.nytimes.com/article?a=669116&single=1&f=20</a></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>Rob Besthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09463964785697202357noreply@blogger.com78tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9070652898233554429.post-70305963068604863122011-02-23T21:08:00.001-08:002011-02-23T21:25:40.763-08:00A Quick (Virtual) Trip Back EastA very quick post today inspired by an article I read this morning in the online magazine <a href="http://www.chinadialogue.net/">China Dialogue</a>. The article, available <a href="http://www.chinadialogue.net/article/show/single/en/4112-Building-China-s-future-?utm_source=Chinadialogue+Update&utm_campaign=5afd1c472e-newsletter+14+Feb+2011&utm_medium=email">here</a>, discusses a new partnership between a coalition of UK companies and China to develop low-carbon housing pilot projects and eco-city demonstration sites. Led by 25 big construction and development firms and 3 universities from the UK, the partnership seeks to engage the Chinese government at the national level through the Ministry of Housing and Urban and Rural Development (MoHURD) to develop these low-carbon areas based on the government's goals and aspirations.<div><br /></div><div>Aside from being a very interesting new partnership that demonstrates the global awareness of the importance of China's development, the article highlighted a few issues that I discussed in my previous posts on China's eco-cities and raised some questions that I thought appropriate to share for your consideration. First, if you will recall in my "<a href="http://robswatsonadventure.blogspot.com/2010/11/tale-of-four-cities.html">A Tale of Four Cities</a>" series, one of the issues I stressed in each case study was the need for multi-level, multi-stakeholder engagement to ensure financial, political, and social support for a project. I mentioned in conjunction with <a href="http://robswatsonadventure.blogspot.com/2010/11/tale-of-four-cities-chapter-1.html">Dongtan</a> and <a href="http://robswatsonadventure.blogspot.com/2010/12/tale-of-four-cities-chapter-2.html">Huangbaiyu</a> how in each case a failure of support at one of the critical stakeholder levels had contributed to the downfall of the city. Well, this article supports my theories (which were based on observation, a summary of news stories chronicling the projects, and interviews) with a quote from smart housing expert Alan Kell who states that part of Dongtan's demise was the lack of support from the Beijing Central Government. If you will recall, the only Chinese government support came from a now disgraced minister in Shanghai who took the project under his wing. Without the backing of stronger political forces in China, once this minister fell from grace, the project was doomed.</div><div><br /></div><div>In Huangbaiyu, one of the contributing factors I discussed was the monopoly control of a single Chinese commercial entity with little foreign or domestic support or oversight. Though not directly mentioned in the China Dialogue article as a source of the failure of this city, it appears that the UK has learned from this case as well by collaborating with multiple companies in England and China to make this new vision a reality.</div><div><br /></div><div>And now for the thought-provoking questions. The article challenges the reader to wonder whether this commercial approach to low-carbon is the right one. The author argues that commercial interests are inherently driven to looking at profits and revenues and therefore are more likely to effect viable low-carbon cities rather than just demonstrations. Yet the level of commercial and political involvement is still a balancing act, especially around the issue of equity. If a city is left entirely commercial, and the developer has to recover his cost, then chances are he will target the up-scale market that can and will pay a premium for the glitz and glamor of living in an eco-city. Yet what fraction of the population is this? And how can we extend the availability of ecological housing and environmentally sensitive developments across the whole spectrum of consumers? Are eco-cities destined to remain just another way to segregate rich and poor? And finally, what exactly does the term "eco-city" mean? Is it only environmental or must it necessarily include economics and sociocultural factors as well?</div><div><br /></div><div>I encourage you all to ponder these as I hope to provide some thoughts and answers from my trip in upcoming posts. Of particular interest to those considering this topic will be my next which will discuss my understanding of and thoughts on Abu Dhabi's Masdar City--a city simultaneously lauded for its environmentally progressive goals and derided for being, quite literally, a city on a pedestal. Stay tuned for that!</div>Rob Besthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09463964785697202357noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9070652898233554429.post-55284518431912314192011-02-13T09:35:00.000-08:002011-02-13T09:54:34.335-08:00My Last Week in the UAE<div style="text-align: left;">In many ways, my last week in the UAE was more eventful than the rest of my time there. Ok, that may be an overstatement, but it is not an overstatement to say that it was the single most eventful week I had there and rivals my final week in China for the most eventful to date in my trip. This post will relate the combination of meetings, intercity travel, and unique experiences I had during that week.</div> <p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight:normal"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal">Thursday</i></b><br />On my last Thursday night in Dubai, I had a choice of how to spend my last weekend in Dubai. As I think I mentioned in a previous post, weekends here are Thursday night through Saturday night because the Muslim day of prayer is Friday. So Thursday nights the affluent flood the malls and clubs while the poorer inhabitants head to the streets of Deira and Bur Dubai. For me, the decision was where to head to make the most of my last weekend in the city. After having spent some nights in both the new and old parts of the city, I decided instead to venture out to one of the only places where on a Thursday night you are liable to find people from all social strata: the horse races. Horse racing is a big event in the UAE with many Sheikhs and wealthy businessmen owning and racing horses weekly. I had visited the older racetrack in Dubai on New Year’s Eve as an afternoon activity and found just how integrated the atmosphere can be and so thought I would explore it yet again.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbEr89b35zQGPZMNWHoyxeUsFYluYgQE5VenjqlhNxd11rYik0dlvgw7h3HnzMEqE5DF0g_IaBrDQ3VGP2d4bOOkYkYhV3BjiWm4w8HWCYs4350A7CVieI2b-K95tbCeyQ6iFGIkwu8lY/s1600/P1020772.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbEr89b35zQGPZMNWHoyxeUsFYluYgQE5VenjqlhNxd11rYik0dlvgw7h3HnzMEqE5DF0g_IaBrDQ3VGP2d4bOOkYkYhV3BjiWm4w8HWCYs4350A7CVieI2b-K95tbCeyQ6iFGIkwu8lY/s320/P1020772.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5573230209250959826" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaCanG38xGEOUIY6z3yi24tgaFPUS4A8jLFqWmCPryGUIPwtbW3Ar-hW6cJ_wMJ2kKsUloU8raJzRQNpWuDR1cMJFzXw1tT8bvTbfPSEq_7x9AJvLH2dhD59VkT4wPXwo9pddpAjjvWws/s1600/P1020773.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaCanG38xGEOUIY6z3yi24tgaFPUS4A8jLFqWmCPryGUIPwtbW3Ar-hW6cJ_wMJ2kKsUloU8raJzRQNpWuDR1cMJFzXw1tT8bvTbfPSEq_7x9AJvLH2dhD59VkT4wPXwo9pddpAjjvWws/s320/P1020773.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5573230202031637218" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijfdDh5reH177GvgLeRPHRgg9peSsoTPNAJpie585ZxxhVRywe6Nv2U0JOOtP-86Cwq6edwkdAECr7pLrHLJWjvQcG7x4hTP6fvryEGwOhjbRlIFWL5na0kqSU65cMSmD5VJqqZnSv5YA/s1600/P1020777.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijfdDh5reH177GvgLeRPHRgg9peSsoTPNAJpie585ZxxhVRywe6Nv2U0JOOtP-86Cwq6edwkdAECr7pLrHLJWjvQcG7x4hTP6fvryEGwOhjbRlIFWL5na0kqSU65cMSmD5VJqqZnSv5YA/s320/P1020777.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5573230199205730082" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">With my course set for Meydan Racecourse, I headed out on a bus bound for the desert. The track is several kilometers from the city and there is nothing else in its vicinity save a trackside hotel. The whole area is intended to be built into Meydan City, but with the slowdown, construction is currently on hold. The bus doesn’t even reach the track, and I had to walk with some other race fans for a kilometer or so to reach the grandstand. Under the lights, laborers and service class workers mingled with Dubai’s middle class on the grass and in the stands, each holding their betting cards and waiting eagerly for their horses to take the track. A separate area with private boxes and plush seats denoted the zone intended for owners and VIPs—not the general, free admission section for me. Yet once the horses took the track it didn’t matter where you were sitting. Excitement flooded the stadium as the riders came around the final turn in each race, kids ran alongside as fast as their feet would carry them, and onlookers cheered for their horses in hopes of doubling their week’s pay.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwF4CIEDo6fy052ZXqsk-TzN5G0kkbCZ28l9rwj_4N6-2hzSL8f7gRl0UvjWqH0EDvmuDJ4iDsnXqlrnbx6omu-I3oFILtmhEpgHgeLk0poc8IEVpTE65OFE5iVOhqADzhfmKwpZwbi6s/s1600/P1030023.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwF4CIEDo6fy052ZXqsk-TzN5G0kkbCZ28l9rwj_4N6-2hzSL8f7gRl0UvjWqH0EDvmuDJ4iDsnXqlrnbx6omu-I3oFILtmhEpgHgeLk0poc8IEVpTE65OFE5iVOhqADzhfmKwpZwbi6s/s320/P1030023.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5573230194087586210" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5E1jvM3tJNUXZCvMshvFah2qPEYqePOmhYq-A-jhmttc0Rk2XPaMcipg_vAtlARd8AJKRi32Gu2OE9SLUSnmqaKPmkBSGnO85cE_bPhLLQL7XVrtC-84eMyN27jVEf6QIRcKvve8Lq0U/s1600/P1030025.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5E1jvM3tJNUXZCvMshvFah2qPEYqePOmhYq-A-jhmttc0Rk2XPaMcipg_vAtlARd8AJKRi32Gu2OE9SLUSnmqaKPmkBSGnO85cE_bPhLLQL7XVrtC-84eMyN27jVEf6QIRcKvve8Lq0U/s320/P1030025.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5573230194363015314" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Six races later it was all over. Some people went home richer, many went home as they came or with even less. I had not bet but just went to enjoy the atmosphere, watch the excitement of the races, and soak in the mingling of classes—a rare sight in Dubai. Yet as the night was still young, I hopped a cab to the Dubai Mall and for one more night, basked in the grandeur and immense size of this shopping mecca. After catching the fountain show once more and wandering the many aisles of stores, I headed back to my hostel for some much needed rest.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight:normal"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal">Friday</i></b><br />One of the most interesting phenomena in Dubai is that on Friday morning when the devout are at the mosque, the non-Muslim population turns out at the hotels in force for bottles and bottles of bubbly. Every five star hotel has a Friday morning champagne brunch almost in a backlash against the tight alcohol laws imposed by the Islamic state—drink while they pray. While I didn’t make it to one of these expensive rituals, this last Friday I did partake in the brunch phenomenon with two friends, Rob Ferry and Elizabeth Monoian. I met Rob and Elizabeth as I do many of my friends and interviewees—through an introductory e-mail after finding their website—and after we had brunch on Christmas Eve and bonded over being lonely Americans, we agreed to meet again. This second brunch was a lovely time chatting and learning more about each other’s experiences in Dubai, of which their experience is much more extensive, especially as they are pioneering a public art project to educate visitors about renewable energy (it’s really cool and called the Land Art Generator Initiative—check it out <a href="http://www.landartgenerator.org/">here</a>). We had a nice time talking and dining at Paul Patisserie before finally I had to head off and play tour guide in the city I had come to enjoy.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">A week earlier I had gotten an e-mail from Jamie Chu, <a href="http://robswatsonadventure.blogspot.com/2010/11/best-of-beijing.html">my old friend who toured me around Beijing</a> informing me that her friend Karen would be through Dubai for a day. In the mood for a fun afternoon, I agreed to show Karen around Dubai. So after a slight confusion over where her hotel was, we met up, had a quick lunch, and then headed all the way down Sheikh Zayed Road to the Atlantis on the Palm. Starting here, we figured to work our way back up the road until Karen had to get on a plane bound for her home in Mauritius.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTv-kAjBfEOKtQqwy2-0O50fl6a89vhtV1lWQE1xxDF7Ns73yPNr8cCGzJcGy8bbzS_oCS8vn5wxiLw_mJe97vW6AZRN5hNUL1nLTebgfHJ8MDKNl2QM1HigVTRoW13dxw4M57Lu3PUis/s1600/P1030031.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTv-kAjBfEOKtQqwy2-0O50fl6a89vhtV1lWQE1xxDF7Ns73yPNr8cCGzJcGy8bbzS_oCS8vn5wxiLw_mJe97vW6AZRN5hNUL1nLTebgfHJ8MDKNl2QM1HigVTRoW13dxw4M57Lu3PUis/s320/P1030031.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5573231313816268402" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd-Lhena8Y09et8Rsf-7UQj0TcubESISgDBgoRq8CS0AGhVwaJmazW_xkXSYAEXl-z6ess8ToF32xClmv0y9mitczR_izxb0t1XvV8IM2Y3esTWHfZiZWfSadg3kX47y6g4EanWHipeMs/s1600/P1030044.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd-Lhena8Y09et8Rsf-7UQj0TcubESISgDBgoRq8CS0AGhVwaJmazW_xkXSYAEXl-z6ess8ToF32xClmv0y9mitczR_izxb0t1XvV8IM2Y3esTWHfZiZWfSadg3kX47y6g4EanWHipeMs/s320/P1030044.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5573231306291646098" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">From the Palm it was off to Madinat Jumeirah and a glimpse of the Burj al Arab, but in a mode of conveyance with which I was not previously acquainted. I knew that taxis were a very common way of getting around Dubai, and was very familiar with the tan colored sedans that comfortably ferried travelers around. Yet exiting the Palm, none were in sight. We asked the host for a cab and were directed to a silver Lexus sedan parked in the drop off zone. Skeptical, I questioned the host twice that this was a metered cab and he assured me it was, though at a slightly higher rate than the normal Nissan Altimas. Not wanting to waste time waiting for a tan cab and intrigued by the chance of hiring a Lexus cab, Karen and I hopped in for our 15 minute ride in luxury to Madinat Jumeirah. I think that only in Dubai would you find a Lexus cab waiting to rush you around the city. It was luxurious, but really a bit unnecessary.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Madinat Jumeirah provided a nice recharge at Costa Coffee in view of the Burj before heading to the other Burj—Burj Khalifa, the tallest tower in the world. From there, it was a quick trip into the mall to see its interior, but a longer than intended detour at the aquarium. Karen was impressed with the existence of an aquarium in the mall, and so we bought tickets and walked through to view the fish and animals. As it had been a while since lunch, we wandered for a while chatting until we found a good spot for dinner—the only restaurant in the mall that serves a camel burger. This was my second time eating camel (which is, by the way extremely delicious—better than beef) and Karen’s first. The restaurant too was an experience—a very interesting interior design that provided a very modern look and something a bit unexpected in a mall environment.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq_CHZVLUracMyosB3Dd8z1TG9jp1u4m-Xpn6QBTjAT8z2MnqUTcmo2OzN8wLyJ3EGpVxA2pQki3UqR2C0gNoGU1DlKeP7ecnwuY92_FT4wNcVqgx_P0A8P39uce59iiTyIz3qGujCdSs/s1600/P1030069.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq_CHZVLUracMyosB3Dd8z1TG9jp1u4m-Xpn6QBTjAT8z2MnqUTcmo2OzN8wLyJ3EGpVxA2pQki3UqR2C0gNoGU1DlKeP7ecnwuY92_FT4wNcVqgx_P0A8P39uce59iiTyIz3qGujCdSs/s320/P1030069.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5573231306075538338" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmmA4i5AxSzVa8kKD1mwQPmFj6yUH_aeJXn7fRCyskarvn0J8S23-B1fcNiW02kCWROTEQ9k1vAlglMb1Ev1zI48uo0nezgyQhsRb8LmhuSj-vdb7n1T0bhu9bFw4nfyaOBIZrMCUDTLg/s1600/P1030079.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmmA4i5AxSzVa8kKD1mwQPmFj6yUH_aeJXn7fRCyskarvn0J8S23-B1fcNiW02kCWROTEQ9k1vAlglMb1Ev1zI48uo0nezgyQhsRb8LmhuSj-vdb7n1T0bhu9bFw4nfyaOBIZrMCUDTLg/s320/P1030079.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5573231299855958514" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1twro7oy3TKIzp_a65VGomLwvTkk11sG1XTCwevzs_p_R-lgHWcSYdC2Vfze6c9lmZVPuhdkn4LT4chrGyCr5ZPfGLHl2sx5TFlzEh6q9KjEHqEvDGDL_JrM7qWs5Wvx8dJv7nzi42EY/s1600/P1030080.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1twro7oy3TKIzp_a65VGomLwvTkk11sG1XTCwevzs_p_R-lgHWcSYdC2Vfze6c9lmZVPuhdkn4LT4chrGyCr5ZPfGLHl2sx5TFlzEh6q9KjEHqEvDGDL_JrM7qWs5Wvx8dJv7nzi42EY/s320/P1030080.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5573231293628554882" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">With the night now waning, and Karen fading fast after her long journey, we caught the Metro up to her hotel so she could rest a bit before her early morning flight to Mauritius. We sadly missed out on seeing Old Dubai, but I suppose she needs something to see next time she comes through town. After seeing her onto the shuttle to the airport, I caught a cab ride back to my hostel for some more needed rest and preparation for my next day.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight:normal"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal">Saturday</i></b><br />Saturday proved to be one of the most interesting days I had in the UAE, and an experience which I will never forget. Danny, my roommate in my apartment, had mentioned to me that a company in Ajman owned by a member of the ruling family was very keen on environmental design and protection. He suggested I get in touch with them but after failing to find the company’s information anywhere, I instead decided to try and contact the owner of the company, His Excellency Sheikh Abdulaziz al Nuaimi. Normally I would not have the audacity to send a direct e-mail to a member of one of the Emirates’ ruling families, but articles on how His Excellency reaches out to youth and meets with young men about environmental issues while freely issuing his business card encouraged me. Not a day after I had sent my initial mail, he had responded warmly, offering to meet with me and discuss his activities. After some back and forth, we arranged a day and time, and so Saturday found me heading out to Ajman to meet with His Excellency at his home.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">After an hour bus ride and a 45 minute walk, I found myself staring at the gate to the community where the “Green Sheikh” as he is known lives. Before I could enter, an SUV with shaded windows rolled up, the window came down, and a smiling man in Emirati dress said “You must be Rob.” Next I knew, I was riding shotgun with Sheikh Abdulaziz to drop his son at an activities class before we returned to his home to discuss sustainability initiatives in schools over tea and Arabic sweets. We chatted for nearly two hours on the topic of environmental education and the role of introducing students to environmental business opportunities as a means to advance sustainability awareness and knowledge. Our conversation went so long, that before we knew it, the mosque was ringing out a call to prayer.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">I expected this to end our meeting, understanding that Sheikh Abdulaziz would want to pray but, as a testament to his kindness, he invited me to extend our time together by sharing with me the ritual of ablution and prayer. He said he had shown others before me how to pray and they had enjoyed the experience and since this Fellowship is about learning and experiencing, I heartily agreed. A quick ride from the house found us at the mosque where Sheikh Abdulaziz, his son, and I removed our shoes and headed into the room for ablution. He taught me the rituals of washing the hands, arms, face, ears, nose, mouth, and feet three times each, and when we were finished, we joined the crowd heading into the mosque.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">One of the coolest things about this whole experience in my opinion was the absolute equality of it. Here I stood shoulder to shoulder with a member of the ruling family of Ajman on my right and likely a middle class worker on my left with two young men and a day laborer directly in front of me. Sheikh Abdulaziz leaned over and whispered, “Just follow what I do.” As the prayer began, everyone stood shoulder to shoulder no matter where you came from or what you did—in this moment we were all equal in the eyes of God. Surreptitiously watching Sheikh Abdulaziz out of the corner of my eye, I copied his movements, in turn crossing my arms over my chest (I do not know the Arabic prayer to accompany the motions), kneeling down and prostrating before God with my nose and forehead on the carpet, sitting on my haunches in silent reflection, and then rising to repeat. At the end of the prayer, you turn to your left and right and whisper “Salaam alaikum” to the person on either side followed by shaking hands. This utter equality left a profound impact on me—in no other world would I see this cross-section of society come together and genuinely wish each other Peace. The reverent atmosphere of the mosque, the unity of the prayer, and the sense of community left me thinking about religion and how I have never really belonged to such a community of faith. I can understand much better how for many, church, temple, or the mosque is a place of gathering and friendship as much as a place of worship. It was this community aspect, the oneness of it all that made the most profound impact on me.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">I must say too that this was not a typical tourist experience, and I feel indebted to Sheikh Abdulaziz for his kindness in sharing that experience with me. It really emphasizes that at its core, Islam is a peaceful religion which, sadly, like many other world religions has been twisted by radicals (if you think others haven’t done this, violence in India and the Crusades nearly a millennium ago are examples to look up).</p> <p class="MsoNormal">After this experience, we headed back to his home for a few more minutes of chatting and some more sweets before I left him with two other sustainability leaders to discuss a business matter they are putting together. Now dusk, I wandered the beachfront until I found out just how close together Sharjah, Dubai, and Ajman are—in ten minutes I had crossed into Sharjah and 30 minutes later was at the bus station waiting to head back to Dubai reflecting on my experience with His Excellency Sheikh Abdulaziz.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight:normal"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal">Sunday</i></b><br />Sunday found me once again heading up the coast to Sharjah but not before taking a trip up the tallest tower in the world—Burj Khalifa (for more information on that, <a href="http://robswatsonadventure.blogspot.com/2011/01/view-from-top.html">see my post about it</a>). After heading back to the ground floor, I caught a bus to meet with Jeremy Byatt, the head of Bee’ah, the Sharjah Environmental Company. I had met Jeremy at a trade show in Dubai and was impressed with his knowledge and dynamism. In his bustling office I saw proof that environmentalism is going strong in parts of the UAE—everyone from young Emiratis to foreigners were working hard on recycling initiatives, waste management, publicity, and other campaigns to increase the visibility of environmental causes in and around the UAE.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Jeremy and I sat and talked for over an hour before I finally let him get back to his work and headed off to explore Sharjah on my own. Though I had lived next door to this city for two months now, I had only been previously for business and never got to explore. I wandered through the Central Souk which was relatively deserted at 4 on a Sunday (understandably so—for comparison, imagine a mall at 4 on a Monday in the US). The building itself was very impressive however, and I can only imagine that when lit and viewed from across the bay it is a gorgeous sight.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-weight: normal; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoUrr5FiOLkFtz9NGeAg_yqmxTV57nFOXQy2gHIgkwTLg0w4VuiRwZhhkEFU7dJ-vmWBiYqSQb1hzFVudOEl6IcGNLyUi8ZUp1__YrbPkD2yOzuZ8CDgCj8gkJpeZMBXxKYUTGvFX-kJA/s320/P1030141.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5573231974967112658" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">From there it was off to the older part of Sharjah and the waterfront where traditional style buildings clash with modern office towers. The traditional structures are inhabited by another rehabilitated souk charging exorbitant prices for “antiques.” One look, however, at the antique knives reveals a poorly created sheet metal blade sitting in new wood—certainly not a relic of a time gone by. From here, it was only a short walk to the very interesting animal and bird market. If you need bird seed or dog food, this is the place to come, but that is not what draws visitors or most buyers. Here you can also find every manner of animal itself. From dogs to rabbits, parrots to hamsters, and even falcons (yes, there was one falcon shop), you can find any animal you might want for a pet. There were some that I am pretty sure are illegal to be bought and sold under the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES), but not one to muckrake in a country like the UAE, I just turned a blind eye. The atmosphere was bustling and (unsurprisingly) noisy, but it was fun to walk through and window-shop. A word of warning though that the cages are small so if you’re prone to having your heartstrings tugged by puppy dog eyes staring from behind small wires, this may not be for you.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">After that walk, it was back to the bus station to head once more back to Dubai so that I would be ready to travel to my third emirate in as many days the next morning.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight:normal"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal">Monday</i></b><br />Waking up on Monday, I knew it was going to be a busy day. I was up and gone early to catch the bus to Abu Dhabi which, when I arrived, had a crowd waiting already longer than a single bus. I grabbed my ticket and joined the queue wondering why the line was so long—I’d never seen it that bad in all of my trips to Abu Dhabi. When the bus arrived, people poured on, and in what I have come to learn is the norm for Indian society (the group that formed the largest contingent waiting for the bus), the line dissolved into a surging mass of people vying for a shoulder’s edge in front of the next guy. Not accustomed to pushing and shoving, I missed the bus by one seat, but luckily the next bus arrived within 5 minutes. Expecting the same crowd, I staked my place and made it aboard the bus as the first passenger, thereby securing my place.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">When I arrived in Abu Dhabi, I hurried on foot to the Environment Agency for a meeting only to get lost following the directions I had printed. A quick phone call set me back on track, but I still arrived about 15 minutes late, or so I thought. It turns out that according to the party with whom I was meeting, I arrived 23 hours and 45 minutes early. Somewhere we had crossed wires and had believed we were meeting on two different days. Lucky for me, she had the flexibility and the graciousness to receive me that day, and we had a nice long chat about the role of big business in leading the sustainability drive in Abu Dhabi and how Corporate Social Responsibility can drive sustainable action.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">From there, I hailed a taxi as quickly as I could to head out to what had been my goal since my first day in the UAE: Masdar City. After the confusion of my first meeting, I was a bit apprehensive that I had the day completely wrong for both meetings and would be arriving unexpectedly after such a long journey and expensive cab fare. All I could hope was that either I was right in this meeting or the professor with whom I was meeting would be just as gracious as the last. Putting these fears aside, I began to get excited as I saw the raised city of Masdar rising from the sands in front of the cab. For all the pictures I had seen, it was unreal to see this city on a podium rising before my eyes. The terra cotta facades atop the metal undercroft pitted against the orange sands and blue sky was unreal—here was the most complete eco-city I had yet visited and the one that looked the most futuristic.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">From the cab, I wandered up the stairs to the main level of the city and found the entrance to the university. The only problem was that there was no one at the reception desk. I found the only person I could and asked for the professor but was told that no one was in the office at the moment—everyone was out in the courtyard. Hoping that my memory was good enough to identify the professor with whom I was meeting from their photo on the site, I headed out to the courtyard to find the whole of the university (maybe 100 people at most) mingling over mocktails and shrimp cocktails. Grabbing a juice, I wove through the crowd and began asking if anyone had seen the professor for whom I was searching. Yet before I got very far, I was herded with the rest back out of the courtyard and into a narrower hallway in the university. We were stopped there and turned around to march back through the same hallway but this time passing through metal detectors.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">This seemed a bit strange to me, but then I recalled an article I had read in passing the day before: “Clinton to Visit Masdar.” By some twist of fate, I had scheduled my meeting at Masdar City the same day that Secretary of State Hillary Clinton was speaking. Not only that, we were supposed to meet at the same time. This was, for me, an interesting and welcome twist, and to top it off, it happened that while in the gents’ line for the metal detector, I spotted the professor I was meeting in the ladies line. To be sure that I had spotted the right person, I noticed her carrying a Post-It with my phone number written on it. After we were both searched and inspected with the wand and bomb-sniffing dogs, I approached her to see about our meeting. We decided that it would be best to watch the speech and then reconvene to discuss sustainability in the UAE and with that, we waited for the Secretary to make her appearance. After everyone had stood in the courtyard for nearly an hour, Dr. Sultan al Jaber, the CEO of Masdar, made his way to the podium followed by Secretary Clinton to give their respective addresses.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCuovrXfjOSzogkYA8B6pfxvbBUxWnZ0F3JfhTxAj1fK_tafODJ1i_L7NnLpA6En7AiNtW9VxCaiXM1Facr_Q0KgWG3V4DE6jba_Zz4gJdsIAA01DWGM2cuSceNFAeZoN291wV2SxoIA4/s1600/P1030173.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCuovrXfjOSzogkYA8B6pfxvbBUxWnZ0F3JfhTxAj1fK_tafODJ1i_L7NnLpA6En7AiNtW9VxCaiXM1Facr_Q0KgWG3V4DE6jba_Zz4gJdsIAA01DWGM2cuSceNFAeZoN291wV2SxoIA4/s320/P1030173.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5573231968546610738" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAuNeKSluXcr0VQCDrxV64QgXBeL3zTX-Kyja_nSLdGDdWxIW6qxf_vhTFG6RUi1JBCBoCW9UBH0mBvv91Jbhjd31prIQW1VrFe5IohGj2lutbsJmVAVRyQQuitx_OgxgsN-8gzWE01MY/s1600/P1030180.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAuNeKSluXcr0VQCDrxV64QgXBeL3zTX-Kyja_nSLdGDdWxIW6qxf_vhTFG6RUi1JBCBoCW9UBH0mBvv91Jbhjd31prIQW1VrFe5IohGj2lutbsJmVAVRyQQuitx_OgxgsN-8gzWE01MY/s320/P1030180.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5573231966294792002" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">The speeches were interesting to me if only to hear how the politicians view the project and the collaboration between the two nations. Secretary Clinton praised Masdar at length and Abu Dhabi for providing visionary leadership in the realm of sustainable development and renewable energy. She expounded that President Obama is fighting for those same things in the US. However in a statement that I wanted to question, she then followed that the US would actively help the UAE to create jobs in renewable energy there, but said nothing about creating such jobs in the US. Either she lacks hope or was playing to her predominantly UAE-based audience. Either way, I wish she had taken questions so I could have pressed her on the issue.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Once the speech was over, I had my meeting and then raced once more in a cab to the Abu Dhabi bus station. I boarded for Dubai, now running late because of the Secretary for an evening meeting in Dubai that ended up getting canceled. With a little flexibility to relax, I strolled through Bur Dubai until I reached a great little kebab chain called “Eat and Drink” recommended by my friend Danny. With a big fruit juice and some chicken shawarma, I relaxed and prepared for my final day in Dubai.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight:normal"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal">Tuesday</i></b><br />I had intentionally left my last day in Dubai free of meetings not for the usual reason of needing to pack or run last minute souvenir errands (though I did get up and do that) but rather to partake in what the guidebooks claim is the “quintessential UAE experience”: a desert safari. Having done safaris in Africa (and having learned enough Swahili to know that “safari” just means trip—the animal connotation is a Western one), I wasn’t sure what to expect considering that there were no big game reserves around Dubai. But with the company of some of my hostelmates who I had gotten to know, we set out in a 4x4 for the dunes. Our first stop was at a little desert camp with a sad looking camel, an eagle, an emu, and some monkeys. Since only one of those animals is indigenous to the area, I wasn’t sure what to expect from the rest of the trip, but was happy when after waiting for a couple of the others on the trip to take a quad bike ride for a half hour we set out once more.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvq32rAbn9-ZHBIXKergj21dC0DwBr5c3hp8cY3WFrdq1LVs0IBq4rwE7s_CVd9kATbhCAPJveTjW0_54fq__Ardfg5cTryHx-IRSWddzc0UXuMhyphenhyphen8V4gY6z2KE3xTmrGnIIZbZsFqVRE/s1600/P1030205.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvq32rAbn9-ZHBIXKergj21dC0DwBr5c3hp8cY3WFrdq1LVs0IBq4rwE7s_CVd9kATbhCAPJveTjW0_54fq__Ardfg5cTryHx-IRSWddzc0UXuMhyphenhyphen8V4gY6z2KE3xTmrGnIIZbZsFqVRE/s320/P1030205.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5573231963158571858" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU1N01FMv96kXTF59reAlgIPIg0UoREcRLJfkcGnl3NWzD-z-nrJFs4m0W9BIkYnNuvdOSlTM0enLG5UDfb6q1WK03pulNsToXafcEHk93ACWBCWZeXHDUlAbLZ6fSKRxc8YFWeBsWm8c/s1600/P1030209.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU1N01FMv96kXTF59reAlgIPIg0UoREcRLJfkcGnl3NWzD-z-nrJFs4m0W9BIkYnNuvdOSlTM0enLG5UDfb6q1WK03pulNsToXafcEHk93ACWBCWZeXHDUlAbLZ6fSKRxc8YFWeBsWm8c/s320/P1030209.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5573231961387064722" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></span></b></p><div><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-weight: normal; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT0wmiKx-TUVwBwUelN_eLoYyKjgeXr-SSuTEaZyAZRsqZzA-gAXMRVzmkZjiE1jBdHa2zv20P_Ozgl_Bri0V-b2uX6KD3c7lU2tQdvSKt4LJvVmONg6QF5t25ePAHFJ9_PZJjrkPV0c4/s320/P1030215.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5573232524038690930" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></b></div> <p class="MsoNormal">Now it was time for the real fun of these safaris—dune bashing. Here, an experienced driver takes you racing up some of the large sand dunes out in the desert only to slide halfway down before recovering, spraying sand everywhere, and charging back up for another go. I wouldn’t say it is as exhilarating as a roller coaster like the ads claim, but it is quite a thrill, especially when as a first-timer you have a faint feeling that the car might roll. The half hour spent on this part of the trip was pretty fun and I would gladly have done more, but instead we headed up to a rocky outcrop in the desert to watch the sunset. I must say, I never thought that such emptiness and sands could be so gorgeous, but as the sun dropped lower and threw its long rays across the orange sands, it seemed to set the sands aflame. Coupled with the serenity of being so far from civilization, the sunset was sublime.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB-YyiTmcfR4Qbz2FPmAiTsOUaQymrEzPJkyRc3ooDjv2SUb58NcCOJkR8gBf7Rupv2ZSKoYlwRixWKMer1tSs7Rup4nW0ZB4M7jeXwGZVfdf-ZExN3wTca47FFWWg4z15i-nlYZPSfuY/s1600/P1030228.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB-YyiTmcfR4Qbz2FPmAiTsOUaQymrEzPJkyRc3ooDjv2SUb58NcCOJkR8gBf7Rupv2ZSKoYlwRixWKMer1tSs7Rup4nW0ZB4M7jeXwGZVfdf-ZExN3wTca47FFWWg4z15i-nlYZPSfuY/s320/P1030228.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5573232517508367170" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie7mj0e2cA3zfhIRhHGjitBA4TncucmMOv0j12JL6tgP9DOnl9P1l7A8lBCPEqfvvsedFdUp0Gw3rQ9pDQgiZJ4CvCEMPZA7tIpufEq8TZLzKxjIiHopp8VNbytsGecB3hOwwNdPavmMs/s1600/P1030237.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie7mj0e2cA3zfhIRhHGjitBA4TncucmMOv0j12JL6tgP9DOnl9P1l7A8lBCPEqfvvsedFdUp0Gw3rQ9pDQgiZJ4CvCEMPZA7tIpufEq8TZLzKxjIiHopp8VNbytsGecB3hOwwNdPavmMs/s320/P1030237.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5573232508325225090" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHvR9sYILwt0heTOI-ZF0cdpMV6YqQEkikjSxmoeXB2HzL3cjZjHi3QpQ_q-g3eRWYcbrb9xOBjNkYCsH645msTn4crOPux0SfQLD4sPRjrJk-ndft3eKDgPg9hcO2EFTzFy0p-zUn24k/s1600/P1030246.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHvR9sYILwt0heTOI-ZF0cdpMV6YqQEkikjSxmoeXB2HzL3cjZjHi3QpQ_q-g3eRWYcbrb9xOBjNkYCsH645msTn4crOPux0SfQLD4sPRjrJk-ndft3eKDgPg9hcO2EFTzFy0p-zUn24k/s320/P1030246.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5573232508341586162" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpEVdb1QFtLfqTCZQe-VMQp9vsR5bJm_ZuxbrdZ-7oLbZq-5iwp_zVSg9N6JHFL-TuRP7QyMoVFMvpurOPU3Qg_EwjLX1qNDZf8buGEgrkd_RJvHTYeUhhExhjeikjQYCj1wUIbQQYge4/s1600/P1030253.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpEVdb1QFtLfqTCZQe-VMQp9vsR5bJm_ZuxbrdZ-7oLbZq-5iwp_zVSg9N6JHFL-TuRP7QyMoVFMvpurOPU3Qg_EwjLX1qNDZf8buGEgrkd_RJvHTYeUhhExhjeikjQYCj1wUIbQQYge4/s320/P1030253.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5573232504765874066" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-fSYLcx1JAFhAuhTRqNKhsJSZ6DosuXtA5SDWJodSDuLHIFBES8kL-O0JJagw3qnv3cvVBr-NXs1BabgTL0-_inT-K0eRPTe17dFmHgqQ0ogKCgxva-8aEhCkY5snHWGJdS6PTVc5lM4/s320/P1030265.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5573233110893592994" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal">From the sunset point, we headed to a desert camp for the rest of the evening. Here we got to sample a bit of Emirati culture, or at least the very watered-down tourist version. The experience began with a short ride on the back of a camel—the traditional conveyance of the Emiratis. While this was fun, I would have preferred a longer trip or the chance to actually ride a camel without someone leading it in a short 10 m track. After this, we headed inside after a quick pose with a falcon to enjoy some dancing and traditional music. This was topped off with a wonderful all-you-can-eat Arabic dinner while we watched the dancing and listened to the music. We then capped the night off by trying on Arabic national dress—the ultimate touristy thing to do.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnNfH944R0gPIeDOCWZMv2dekmB_a6q2fMDjcraWjBX03u2_HwTLeG1n_hgTkt-YLMiijuRS0Tkl-7I47sHpadN6VzwFh-DUIYZVX8EnxiiYtsG2oneYhwXROg3LCXxQmcQrhXxe4aSxA/s1600/P1030286.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnNfH944R0gPIeDOCWZMv2dekmB_a6q2fMDjcraWjBX03u2_HwTLeG1n_hgTkt-YLMiijuRS0Tkl-7I47sHpadN6VzwFh-DUIYZVX8EnxiiYtsG2oneYhwXROg3LCXxQmcQrhXxe4aSxA/s320/P1030286.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5573233104582532034" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjzaZX5J6Au70qNvCwfTdaST65C32-jg7RAJp4tibtGzIwvfUgk8lfRBuQ-6GQQRe7En5H0_hE81Av_yavHHLWPDi4Ez7d_67u_rkUEEWMXiJRajLSvmZeVuzPz8jKFV7oKCd8od626VI/s1600/P1030290.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjzaZX5J6Au70qNvCwfTdaST65C32-jg7RAJp4tibtGzIwvfUgk8lfRBuQ-6GQQRe7En5H0_hE81Av_yavHHLWPDi4Ez7d_67u_rkUEEWMXiJRajLSvmZeVuzPz8jKFV7oKCd8od626VI/s320/P1030290.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5573233096817681762" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJv1YEH0qbzd0BWsqZXd9P4atgdYV5XjvsGSWfZvSGUirTHGx2gJwjO3KsBT5Z5exIVuUO5_1V45Pp3Xjl7Ree9phV1slY19ajK2-A86RpRefa8y8eqM2W11ukdIQb_h535MKRjng-HlA/s1600/P1030294.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJv1YEH0qbzd0BWsqZXd9P4atgdYV5XjvsGSWfZvSGUirTHGx2gJwjO3KsBT5Z5exIVuUO5_1V45Pp3Xjl7Ree9phV1slY19ajK2-A86RpRefa8y8eqM2W11ukdIQb_h535MKRjng-HlA/s320/P1030294.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5573233085033847970" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-CmYCA8A_gvCS9d1HSl3GeaVxBbEl50cuDqiIVNBRE55HreLRhaJcNf17NnqnuGhOAm6Aut5twW66_cynz6TEki3HyLHeJ4F9zmkIyDlXH7MrBiwenAqrxZisx2PbyUx66RZRwl9T7HE/s1600/P1030295.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-CmYCA8A_gvCS9d1HSl3GeaVxBbEl50cuDqiIVNBRE55HreLRhaJcNf17NnqnuGhOAm6Aut5twW66_cynz6TEki3HyLHeJ4F9zmkIyDlXH7MrBiwenAqrxZisx2PbyUx66RZRwl9T7HE/s320/P1030295.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5573233079460582002" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkhc3qETWjnKE54hJqEGYAj0jgQZnpChOo6s21A39eNgNJmThhRSLfHgZsRtEqz5Wz6MfhqtZk4d8SpGqjBOkfODJmaQ29hzFii-uH7aIb7DD_TDBf3OHLxO68WVXIZ1umLU7nEw8GyB0/s1600/P1030301.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkhc3qETWjnKE54hJqEGYAj0jgQZnpChOo6s21A39eNgNJmThhRSLfHgZsRtEqz5Wz6MfhqtZk4d8SpGqjBOkfODJmaQ29hzFii-uH7aIb7DD_TDBf3OHLxO68WVXIZ1umLU7nEw8GyB0/s320/P1030301.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5573233669089218578" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizscFOUGzY5NeavnTKRW2TPRZnqeZ82Lo4MO5n3DOXNmTHAPZsX3pFb1rMeDIi90pSZTQGBC5X2t7CI5iuqy7zGV95ZRZZ3zZjdUq1FY-LjRsOZ3eBnsfaCNi4mkyElhyphenhyphen5ONOmEHiIt3c/s1600/P1030316.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizscFOUGzY5NeavnTKRW2TPRZnqeZ82Lo4MO5n3DOXNmTHAPZsX3pFb1rMeDIi90pSZTQGBC5X2t7CI5iuqy7zGV95ZRZZ3zZjdUq1FY-LjRsOZ3eBnsfaCNi4mkyElhyphenhyphen5ONOmEHiIt3c/s320/P1030316.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5573233661027817010" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzD8ApzHkFYK7QnRAJHSdJN8ADk9G1mraOGj2VbfnfiWab40MClYCf_S4QQznipX_XbqJrG4PbnN-OUZYebiB5ZJxFuG9wDLE_jH7JMKMKCKQvNom4-QHSwzdG12KJsAbGnegXvC-L7BA/s1600/P1030320.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzD8ApzHkFYK7QnRAJHSdJN8ADk9G1mraOGj2VbfnfiWab40MClYCf_S4QQznipX_XbqJrG4PbnN-OUZYebiB5ZJxFuG9wDLE_jH7JMKMKCKQvNom4-QHSwzdG12KJsAbGnegXvC-L7BA/s320/P1030320.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5573233654809722898" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMlGdVKVIi1fLREB9pRsCFs0gdsGDSTm8GaIyDVY6Dxq0JpjeIs5AKc8nZJpIlmFuq8m2sk3dCuEBDSFfbhaPmhCsN51gumnD-iE862IVC5cEXD4b-sy1em2qx7YH83OcgGPIzPKHwa7Y/s1600/P1030329.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMlGdVKVIi1fLREB9pRsCFs0gdsGDSTm8GaIyDVY6Dxq0JpjeIs5AKc8nZJpIlmFuq8m2sk3dCuEBDSFfbhaPmhCsN51gumnD-iE862IVC5cEXD4b-sy1em2qx7YH83OcgGPIzPKHwa7Y/s320/P1030329.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5573233653211700338" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal">After dinner it was back to Dubai and for me, one more rendezvous with the other Rob, the friend with whom I had breakfast the past Friday. He had mentioned that he and Elizabeth had discovered a dive bar and so I thought it only appropriate that I check it out on my last night in Dubai. This place, called the Cowboy (written in pink neon), wasn’t quite the peanut-shells-on-the-floor drunken mess that I associate with a dive bar, but as Dubai goes, this was about the worst I’d seen. He and I had a great time talking until it was later than the buses run and I figured I should head home. Without any sort of public transit to get me home I hiked 2 hours across the Maktoum Bridge and through Deira not because I was too stubborn to buy a cab but because I didn’t have any dirhams left to pay for one after the three drinks at the bar. When I finally made it home, I stumbled in and passed out for my last night in Dubai.</p><p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKM6mrYYCKpGPQnSvTCR5YOWusim6pl632D99dxluOpNHXmBZANjnqfzab10tjw9bVIPZusDP0bFtF6kgS_6rpv7amUuA92imUTjUxvHyUe8A07uUH2-1eEbqq78GBpihUAI9m2OIq1-Y/s320/P1030334.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5573233644348561138" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight:normal"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal">Wednesday</i></b><br />Well, this was my last day in Dubai and I had planned such that it would be a lazy morning of finishing packing, grabbing breakfast, and then heading to the airport. Without any errands to run, I packed things up and hopped the Metro to the airport. I arrived in plenty of time, said goodbye to a few friends over the phone, and then got ready to jet to Delhi. But that I will leave for another post…</p>Rob Besthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09463964785697202357noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9070652898233554429.post-83309504181752285642011-02-08T01:48:00.000-08:002011-02-08T02:14:20.924-08:00The Border Runs<div style="text-align: left;">If you’re an American and you stay in Dubai long enough on a visit visa, eventually they kick you out. Well, long enough happens to be 30 days and for my purposes that just wasn’t enough. Luckily, “kicking you out” means that as long as you cross over the border into any other country (pick your favorite, and preferably one that you don’t need a visa in advance for) you can come back with a brand new 30 days on in the UAE for free. For most, the easiest point of refuge for these trips (and the cheapest) is neighboring Oman. Only a several hours round trip by car or under two round trip in the air, Oman provides the perfect haven for escaping the overstay fines and, if you’re like me, taking a nice couple of days respite from the high-rises and rat race of Dubai. This post is the chronicle of those two days of escape and a bit of discussion about the differences between the UAE and its relatively less developed neighbor, Oman.</div> <p class="MsoNormal">My first border run fell the day before National Day, December 1, on the last day of my visa. However the process of getting out was not as straightforward as I had believed it to be. After searching for buses and services to make the border run or the trip to Oman, I concluded that it was safer and a better deal to fly from Sharjah (the city next to Dubai) to Muscat, stay for a day and explore the city, and then return the same day. It was cheaper in the end to do this than to take the bus and pay for a hotel in Oman to have a day to explore. The only problem was that the woman at the airline booking office did not believe that I could stay the day in Oman. Because so many expats book their border run flights—land in Muscat, turn around and fly to Dubai—she thought I had to get right back on the plane and fly home. After running around Dubai to find the Immigration office that could answer that question, I was vindicated in my belief that I could, for the small price of $30 for the Omani visa, stay in Oman for the day and tour Muscat. (That is a note for any other travelers trying this trick—do not let the airline agents convince you that you must turn right around. You can get a visa on arrival in Oman, stay the day, and then return on the evening flight).</p> <p class="MsoNormal">So on the appointed day I rose early and, thanks to the generosity of my new roommate Danny, was driven to the Sharjah airport (that drive saved me about two hours had I gone by public transit). It’s amazing when you fly out of Sharjah how quickly the beaches and towers of Dubai fade and the landscape changes. Soon you are flying over hills and canyons of varying hues of red, orange, yellow, and brown, all changing shape beneath your window. These hills continue changing shape until after about an hour, they meet the ocean with only a line of city to separate the two. This is Muscat.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9GhNc5S3Ilq_q4jXZ3TDqmIHep5RRkQ78pkX4qBKkpaD0RNKsOm4NmNYIRFIvIDdEtrRoPEXdCVtQKNLu7Wx578HhTu10HwDvm_aYCvoBvqsWiiKpuci9PXu8T6K61VTl4e0V03i8Fu8/s1600/678+The+UAE+from+the+Air.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9GhNc5S3Ilq_q4jXZ3TDqmIHep5RRkQ78pkX4qBKkpaD0RNKsOm4NmNYIRFIvIDdEtrRoPEXdCVtQKNLu7Wx578HhTu10HwDvm_aYCvoBvqsWiiKpuci9PXu8T6K61VTl4e0V03i8Fu8/s320/678+The+UAE+from+the+Air.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5571254062526589906" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN9BgpPcW12O9Cls7FJcJwhZtQrUk1EF-_w2kXW_O1Pb-qjD-yAfFlrb2EdZnsymsatstJOaNmmB67AEsQbwnGIh2CrQN27P161tLTRNZktcZwPsEVLmcNnVB07UEpb449VC_Z0sDj5-4/s1600/677+The+UAE+from+the+Air.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN9BgpPcW12O9Cls7FJcJwhZtQrUk1EF-_w2kXW_O1Pb-qjD-yAfFlrb2EdZnsymsatstJOaNmmB67AEsQbwnGIh2CrQN27P161tLTRNZktcZwPsEVLmcNnVB07UEpb449VC_Z0sDj5-4/s320/677+The+UAE+from+the+Air.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5571254060349550018" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwHkkVMecFIbwCu-rQmTBVvEiMDsqs7dQleYIILNl3uu-8H_mDsOw-u_laST4I_cQw4cErMhH8O6CIHPn5ZBfchtgPOw6auzb1UtuubbOUeCPpUnCsZJw-_HTL9iM5W5xCZEkT8dzqLCM/s1600/676+The+UAE+from+the+Air.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwHkkVMecFIbwCu-rQmTBVvEiMDsqs7dQleYIILNl3uu-8H_mDsOw-u_laST4I_cQw4cErMhH8O6CIHPn5ZBfchtgPOw6auzb1UtuubbOUeCPpUnCsZJw-_HTL9iM5W5xCZEkT8dzqLCM/s320/676+The+UAE+from+the+Air.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5571254052693351730" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">From the air, Muscat stretches along the coast and inland, its multiple centers separated by hills with suburbs nestled in the picturesque valleys. The airport occupies a stretch of desert not far from the main city centers but far enough to appear in a different world from the rest of the city. After deplaning and paying my visa fee, I was out of the airport to find a cab and head to town. For a long time once you leave the airport, you drive through desert, sandy dunes and rocky hills alternating outside your window. Without much warning, you break through into first the financial center, a small, low to mid-rise development reminiscent of a roadside town along Route 66 that has spawned a few office towers. From here, another passage through hills and you are in Muttrah, the first seaside hamlet of Muscat. Here I alighted from my taxi to begin my walking tour of historic Muscat. Guided by a scribbled version of Lonely Planet’s walking tour and a map I picked up in Dubai, I set out first for the fish market. Following the birds and the smell, I found the market without much difficulty and soon was immersed in the stalls of the day’s catch being gutted, sliced, and thrown on ice for customers to peruse. Many types of fish were available in different stages of preparation but all were fresh from the sea.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS6RQtBvMlrjJR3nsw8CNcb5webfrbM742tsPgXrgIYtR2K_5sZ262KQfJ1YHmxerkfqwShZUTajiMOZMTHIkqcx3Z3t5sKADxhf1qwako2aCA6pYfclNpo44yhejTi8W9yXq_g0fEo5o/s320/680+Fish+Market+in+Muscat.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5571254061110217762" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">From here I set off for the main souk to continue my shopping (no, I did not buy any fish—probably would be hard to take back on the plane) but first paid a stop at the main museum. Beginning with paintings of horses in the temporary gallery by a local artist, I moved on to learn about the history of the city. I was unaware that Muscat was one of the ports controlled by the Portuguese during their days of oceanic supremacy until I visited this museum. Littered throughout the city today are the relics of this occupation—forts and watchtowers occupy almost every hill and high point in the city still watching for invaders. After reading about Omani customs, dress, and history, I moved on to the souk for a little shopping and a comparison to the hectic souks of Dubai (to be discussed in a later post).</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-YMV-kGAXtr96mefucUlZnwu3pfm4sCgqCdJeK3dm_Y_jMA8CWmNTj4Qq8h8ptc8zF9sdBjD_LV3p2SJ_f5YVgid4j06Trqq7R3zjY5V3Az9tm1S15ycm2F_vPD7pM8vlGEPTQy90Axo/s320/687+Ceiling+in+the+Muscat+Museum.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5571254070123524418" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxpIYsVFSSkXYoNSxQyLs-ekPq5x8sqQnvu_i2MCqNV3syWrIg7epYwON65JOZs1LRqpVVfcV7J-f4vlrgNBaOtZdMC8Yv2sHIf0ruaft-jnBA29hOEKXKjSIwU0u1eiHD90ljlT3mEAM/s1600/690+Bags+of+Goods+for+Trading+in+Museum.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxpIYsVFSSkXYoNSxQyLs-ekPq5x8sqQnvu_i2MCqNV3syWrIg7epYwON65JOZs1LRqpVVfcV7J-f4vlrgNBaOtZdMC8Yv2sHIf0ruaft-jnBA29hOEKXKjSIwU0u1eiHD90ljlT3mEAM/s320/690+Bags+of+Goods+for+Trading+in+Museum.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5571255275248944034" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGuHpDjkdO9gxfd5tGwNKTN3n4opR-zzAEVTDCiTSefJbUQWQiHZx7nUakzhopk4XAc9joc6Tj_sS6RSf85bhMkfjVubM4vKPHQ51J6nLBTTp738Y9bqFKWm29QeLuF_Q0in8iwYMw4L0/s1600/692+Traditional+Omani+Garments.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGuHpDjkdO9gxfd5tGwNKTN3n4opR-zzAEVTDCiTSefJbUQWQiHZx7nUakzhopk4XAc9joc6Tj_sS6RSf85bhMkfjVubM4vKPHQ51J6nLBTTp738Y9bqFKWm29QeLuF_Q0in8iwYMw4L0/s320/692+Traditional+Omani+Garments.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5571255271356437426" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXMStbBMp4yln-bMN11FT4ghVTNE64KTcusZAmxkay9vBLxMqKk3xaSdCOLa1EKVcMoF2yD9POnJH08AEcdx7hxBt9rN8pOjgGN5y_s_0mqnHhHp-zHQCfDKDAdlYxsNtWjPUhpVxqlAQ/s1600/P1010036.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXMStbBMp4yln-bMN11FT4ghVTNE64KTcusZAmxkay9vBLxMqKk3xaSdCOLa1EKVcMoF2yD9POnJH08AEcdx7hxBt9rN8pOjgGN5y_s_0mqnHhHp-zHQCfDKDAdlYxsNtWjPUhpVxqlAQ/s320/P1010036.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5571255268269173570" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgePTmGMI7-TeqNgQWxFQ5E84hfHEooK6sPl4AcIOFLJtHUkzbyqorVatz9qKjjMGnYh1TfTXwnTGdhxiE2GAbTZYplpyPtUBQzyxuADkxUOuOGODelRzsWr1U-3JQopIh1bcf3gYIBNAs/s1600/P1010041.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgePTmGMI7-TeqNgQWxFQ5E84hfHEooK6sPl4AcIOFLJtHUkzbyqorVatz9qKjjMGnYh1TfTXwnTGdhxiE2GAbTZYplpyPtUBQzyxuADkxUOuOGODelRzsWr1U-3JQopIh1bcf3gYIBNAs/s320/P1010041.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5571255265869286882" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal">Though the old souks are predominantly gone, what remains is still quite an experience. Shops crammed side by side in narrow, wooden-arched passages overflow with goods of all shape, size, and manner while the proprietors gladly try to drag you in to view each piece. Though the environment attempts to recreate the old days of spices, pearls, and jewels overflowing from these stalls, the shine on the glass and wood belies the true age of the establishment—this souk is more for tourists than traders. Still, if you are looking for Omani dress or weapons (for example <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal">al khanjar</i>, the traditional knife of the Arabic region), this is the place to come. Every other shopkeeper is happy to sell you a dishdasha and Omani cap. My advice to Americans and Europeans though is be careful on prices. Omani riyals, the local currency, are pegged to the dollar such that 1 riyal = $2.75 which means that something which costs 10 riyals may sound like a good price after Dubai (10 dirhams = 1 riyal, or $2.75) but is in fact 10 times what you may be thinking—I had to do this math several times to realize just what I was paying throughout the day. My personal opinion now is that if I controlled a country’s currency, I would want this type of exchange rate so that visitors think prices are cheap (who wouldn’t buy a burger combo for 2 OR?) when in reality, it’s not as good a deal as you think! Or maybe that’s just me…</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Anyway, returning from my tangent, from the souk it was off to arguably the best part about Muscat—the Corniche. Now Abu Dhabi has a Corniche too, as do Sharjah and Dubai, but something about the clean, crisp air of Oman wafting gently through your hair combined with the picturesque image of the deep blue sea rolling up to the base of towering hills topped with crumbling 16<sup>th</sup> century forts tops any modern city view from the UAE Corniches. I believe I probably could have spent much of the afternoon just strolling, sitting, and enjoying the fresh air here but for the fact that I was on a time budget and determined to see as much of Muscat as humanly possible in one day.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxq3n1Q1zwb-Ee8yXy1vb6bJdvyG_M1seaTEhiXaYFIdqFQ5ltJulU3KUsTbt5MhRpKNNOHyRqYrzXDKaFizVF83lgGudit1Tv5sNQmyzKUCCIHcepmjnJXcAHRXQIao4AX2toZVYG7PY/s320/P1010022.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5571255261783279234" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUQx3Vzg2HB3gBaSZFjafkwtq0mvUNUE29hRB7UqLanS8XwoStpwu7jyD-OT9xtOoQs33JvthGEDGh8dJE6QvcTzlbydwLMEdWjKkS0O35NuPil9wpLRe5tC5caMsedAJDV3DfRYHJzLs/s1600/Panorama+2.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUQx3Vzg2HB3gBaSZFjafkwtq0mvUNUE29hRB7UqLanS8XwoStpwu7jyD-OT9xtOoQs33JvthGEDGh8dJE6QvcTzlbydwLMEdWjKkS0O35NuPil9wpLRe5tC5caMsedAJDV3DfRYHJzLs/s320/Panorama+2.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5571256562763441602" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 131px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHC_ysXaLKUXfGEvol4PEYKLRIik-ApxmUKNlbND4gfqptKNpV6E75_EL4DpJTmB5oWeEVCBls_zmQ4PReJhS-Xl-QeLiDGzjCQMk9FZmgwfW0DqbeGBw3FC8hezvB5TpUuBbD8SUqkgA/s1600/P1010057.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHC_ysXaLKUXfGEvol4PEYKLRIik-ApxmUKNlbND4gfqptKNpV6E75_EL4DpJTmB5oWeEVCBls_zmQ4PReJhS-Xl-QeLiDGzjCQMk9FZmgwfW0DqbeGBw3FC8hezvB5TpUuBbD8SUqkgA/s320/P1010057.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5571256556701052306" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5wMqtpEkXhEyOdi6GCKGlXub7Fq3AjafpY80hc0ihK1EWQv2UHtnhpq4gQLuWUm1cQTQjHzNECXiC0wCEvZ-wau0XP17sbREp-3UabxC_oTk4CDlSq0fk20RyuJDwMhruVaYEC6mlOrk/s1600/P1010067.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5wMqtpEkXhEyOdi6GCKGlXub7Fq3AjafpY80hc0ihK1EWQv2UHtnhpq4gQLuWUm1cQTQjHzNECXiC0wCEvZ-wau0XP17sbREp-3UabxC_oTk4CDlSq0fk20RyuJDwMhruVaYEC6mlOrk/s320/P1010067.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5571256555496010898" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal">I lingered as long as I could on this beautiful seaside walk, and lucky for me, the road by the ocean wound around the peninsula by the beach to the next sector of Muscat—Muscat proper. As I walked I could enjoy the salty air, the afternoon’s light breeze, and the sound of the waves crashing on the breakers beside me. Along the way, I passed numerous other old Portuguese lookouts on the hills as well as gorgeous rock crags and statues along the nice broad sidewalk. Around one bend, the Portuguese forts gave way to a gleaming marble statue of an incense burner followed around the next bend by a picturesque site of a little seaside town tucked into a pocket between the hills and the water. The bright white of the monument and building were set off perfectly by the beautiful deep blue of the air and water and the rough brown hues of the land. The whole sight was gorgeous and easily enough for a day’s relaxing.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsILBaFh276T4bf28kOtWyfFjFdAKt-5-0JkA649sMsrJwpA8PkZI-F_ZVjcSFu93n5UWNGwdqOp4VJn1l49Z9oJNURvVh2tjUzGVlmaTszsHC9WW9bCo5dsF_snBrIjNVNPXQaTa0eI0/s1600/P1010033.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsILBaFh276T4bf28kOtWyfFjFdAKt-5-0JkA649sMsrJwpA8PkZI-F_ZVjcSFu93n5UWNGwdqOp4VJn1l49Z9oJNURvVh2tjUzGVlmaTszsHC9WW9bCo5dsF_snBrIjNVNPXQaTa0eI0/s320/P1010033.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5571256555853710194" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgudUKgAMfFpr5ye6AhE8c_KRTEViQzBNM_JDSy0y5WC_XDi-RpSVCO0DU60SRivfgJXziMMyJJl2tgmOQULtHbJXsEuJDTNNNtf8H9h_zb-g29iCtY13xugOfJayz8mCegWq6PwOH5_Bk/s1600/P1010078.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgudUKgAMfFpr5ye6AhE8c_KRTEViQzBNM_JDSy0y5WC_XDi-RpSVCO0DU60SRivfgJXziMMyJJl2tgmOQULtHbJXsEuJDTNNNtf8H9h_zb-g29iCtY13xugOfJayz8mCegWq6PwOH5_Bk/s320/P1010078.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5571256551172079602" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></span></b></p><div><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGx0Sh2dDeLxC_3uols5bC7QxRmRpctI3IW0BOBDcTNQbPrz1qvUnEhWIxI1D06RRFcDn8zPvz-beC8ksuZZF6TSUNxVfh6nOOZD1kSqrCzPaiiqmbYPf1osK5dEpA_fyeiFW0hK0Pau8/s1600/P1010080.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGx0Sh2dDeLxC_3uols5bC7QxRmRpctI3IW0BOBDcTNQbPrz1qvUnEhWIxI1D06RRFcDn8zPvz-beC8ksuZZF6TSUNxVfh6nOOZD1kSqrCzPaiiqmbYPf1osK5dEpA_fyeiFW0hK0Pau8/s320/P1010080.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5571257145286340066" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWClLPA26gbfFSwJsyOKl68ZN7U59cCt18Wr-h8vF90ZRBlBKu6EHxZ8gamSCu1Ov6FK4cc-iFF0PcuVEBsbA-lpVu_wsvHLZcQqTKDlu2Eiwe9hOXfX8e1pFmRI0q3iVsqNGyu85LenU/s1600/P1010088.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWClLPA26gbfFSwJsyOKl68ZN7U59cCt18Wr-h8vF90ZRBlBKu6EHxZ8gamSCu1Ov6FK4cc-iFF0PcuVEBsbA-lpVu_wsvHLZcQqTKDlu2Eiwe9hOXfX8e1pFmRI0q3iVsqNGyu85LenU/s320/P1010088.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5571257137487367794" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1GTkJ-r2wbqHFrbPwawsmY-FmbF-BR6qA_4cE3GTsz7wt1QXekYu0EtkcfFBD0mp35YrC_APp0cgxQWaxaUZCzaZZB7FmYY581MfgXt6bSYnycfgkCXQ-QNufsDYuKD1Rk3hQ9XgdJrI/s1600/P1010099.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1GTkJ-r2wbqHFrbPwawsmY-FmbF-BR6qA_4cE3GTsz7wt1QXekYu0EtkcfFBD0mp35YrC_APp0cgxQWaxaUZCzaZZB7FmYY581MfgXt6bSYnycfgkCXQ-QNufsDYuKD1Rk3hQ9XgdJrI/s320/P1010099.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5571257137918834674" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxCwAb8yGJYKZndnpps3La1P1Ar_dLEjodhzu8plU-5GC5ymsOX5xkUedNiw9k84Xxl-FaS-F02FGM77urtCJgnYDa5WYKYmm-B8K_B6Hw0D6Y5ron62DoWg9JVNI5Oqvzmn-Yqq2JjrI/s1600/P1010108.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxCwAb8yGJYKZndnpps3La1P1Ar_dLEjodhzu8plU-5GC5ymsOX5xkUedNiw9k84Xxl-FaS-F02FGM77urtCJgnYDa5WYKYmm-B8K_B6Hw0D6Y5ron62DoWg9JVNI5Oqvzmn-Yqq2JjrI/s320/P1010108.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5571257135107632978" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></span></b></div><p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB1k08nMXQwxa_qIbhGDOvIKvAOw2GdDc8IwVP09VE3cTxokB8tqY43dFaWlqmPIOmWTUiDBSsB7N4jV5eRahlAkrPUVuvON-7kVJ2dgZmQaeaur7GQDNQxeKGADUvmrSRHleO1kLgGAw/s320/Panorama+5.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5571258233026238514" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 105px; " /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal">Continuing my walk, I came eventually to the old gate into Muscat which still stands strong and proud welcoming visitors into this old city. Deviating here from the main road, I wandered into a little neighborhood nearby to find another museum on Oman. Here I took in old outfits, weapons, jewelry, and housing styles alongside photos by an Omani photographer. This was yet another nice introduction to Oman’s history and culture and taught me a lot about the importance of clothing, jewelry, and weaponry in identifying with one’s tribal past in the Middle Eastern region. Outside, the view was just as beautiful as the rest of the city with white homes pitted against brown hills with a dash of color from the pink flowers currently in bloom during this mild winter.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi7pmDpT2_tyY650OOA9-YArGFAcJh6xT30I-G7vry-Rva8TY4kZI60hthQ5SyH-caNoEuAXrqq0OxGoHjd9k0K0Eau-Tx4cRoyj9sIdriGRrDHS5M_fFxVtoCsqZ3fRznNogbw9qZWCg/s320/P1010111.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5571257130623120818" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></b></p><div><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSHidS2bBuP39rHRmIeULcsrMDgAeca-XZUzreeWf6sFpUosWGhFr8Nhr2CfYD22FgvSYyseKzob0YbaqMEMxUixzVhvyJxuGiitrWG-KEm83PqmiHHMK3BVWE7FroSGySvBSxfeeyuNw/s320/P1010127.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5571258251701886274" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></span></span></b></div> <p class="MsoNormal">Another short walk after this, I found myself at the ruler’s palace. Compared to all of the traditional buildings I had seen in Oman and even the UAE, this was about as far from the traditional style as I could believe. The rich colors contrasted with the white of the surrounding buildings thereby proclaiming the importance of the occupant. In form, the building seemed less regal. Cone-shaped pillars that widen toward the roof welcome entrants into the boxy home with a wide, flat roof. The appearance is very modern relative to the rest of the city or even to a typical ruler’s palace. However, that notion of “typical” may be based on Western conceptions of what creates a regal, stately form and not an Omani conception. In fact, for all I know, this is the epitome of regality in Omani culture. I’ll let you decide.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzyF4_uQw-7Ram9ve43QkcURSg8Gx9OrlBZxUlkAt5P75njtsEEAE0IvNLox6KNNE5x3s66eS-2gP2g3Wek2yxepKWqkCkJnbPSnSwvjOUqMC7i0NIZYuDezzXqifZoo3Dh0-EEy0KApI/s320/P1010157.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5571258252650317762" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Around the back of this palace was yet another view of hilly fingers of land reaching into the sea, tipped with Portuguese forts still watching for pirates and traders. This peaceful setting was perfect to bask in the late afternoon sun, breathe deeply the pure air, and listen to the crashing of the waves on the breakers. However after a short stroll, my silence was broken by a taxi driver looking for work, and as it was time to head to the airport and back to Dubai, I employed him. En route, we took a detour to a couple other beaches of Oman to see the five star resorts on the sea, but soon enough I was back in the airport and on a flight to Dubai.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">As I crossed back over the now dark border, I pondered the whole day and how different it was from anything I had experienced in Dubai. This city, Muscat, is still comprised of the older mode of development, at least along its coastline. While it does have a growing financial center, it has not monopolized its coast with five star resorts or reclaimed its hills in a mad scramble for an ocean view. Instead, it has retained its character of pearly white buildings nestled gently between the mountains and the ocean. The thick-walled, small-windowed structures are undoubtedly part of the reason that per capita energy use is 4 times less than its ostentatious neighbor (these designs help prevent the scorching heat from getting in) while the white-washed walls represent a smart, simple way to reflect sun and keep the interior nice and cool. These simple, traditional practices have been forgotten in Dubai in favor of the glass boxes that represent a Western notion of modernity. Hopefully Oman will never lose this tradition as it gives Muscat a unique character that is absent in the modern commercialism of neighboring Dubai.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Another major difference worth noting between Oman and the UAE is that every taxi driver I had in Oman (which admittedly was a sample size of 2) was an Omani national. In conversation with them, I learned that this is typical of the country. Omanis occupy most jobs in the nation which is in strict contrast to the UAE where many jobs, especially on the level of taxi drivers and other service professions, are performed by Indians, Pakistanis, or other immigrants. In Dubai this stems from the small population of Emiratis relative to the size of the economy as well as to the social contract that Emiratis have with the government guaranteeing them housing, monetary, and educational benefits by virtue of the citizenship (this stems, I’m told, from a sense that because the oil resources of the nation belong to the nation, each citizen is therefore entitled to a share of the resource and the profit that accrues there from). I’m not sure how these factors play out in the context of Oman (I’d be interested if anyone out there knows!), but my guess would be that the poorer oil resources have not been distributed among the citizens in the same manner and that there are simply more Omanis in the country as a percentage of the population. With a higher percentage of Omanis and a more even distribution throughout the economic strata, it would only be natural that they would occupy a wider range of jobs than do Emiratis in the UAE.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">That ends my discussion of Muscat and Oman, but not of my experiences dodging the Immigration authorities in the UAE. Not long before the New Year I was required to once again slip outside the borders of the country to renew my visa status. This time, rather than fly, I accepted the generous offer of my roommate Danny to experience the typical expat visa run via the border at Hatta. So late one morning we jumped in his car and quickly left the staggering heights of the buildings behind on the road to Hatta, a city in the Emirate of Dubai right on the border with Oman. From my limited experience in the UAE along the coast and in Al Ain, I did not consider the country to be mountainous in any real manner. In my experiences between cities, the sands did not change color much nor did they rise above a few feet from the road (save for the sight of Jebel Hafeet, a mountain in Al Ain). Yet on this road, it wasn’t long before Danny and I were surrounded by dunes that he said were great for a quad bike and which had changed from the yellows of the beach to a deeper orange.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Continuing through these, the dunes gave way to veritable hills with rocky outcroppings and protrusions in the distance, a deeper red still than the dunes before. I had never thought that so barren a landscape could be so beautiful, but here was an example of beauty among the sands. Even in my desert experiences in California, the vegetation had provided an element of beauty through gnarled, twisted trees, occasional shrubs, and the even rarer flower. Yet here, the beauty was in the absence of vegetation and the windswept dunes and barren, beaten mountains. Somehow the turmoil of the centuries had sculpted a beautiful landscape.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2LgU8ik6SzqUkLYRMoUx4fKxHr_uVTGSZ79FPebOLAQKX94MvyHPEe-fKks2iTwx6z1_fjYFgBWd8Tucaq19Wh6yBEtP99w2B1-xpqOrKo_o2NPyRHJtCEnQGY5h13RIoEHXc4VhdES8/s1600/P1020729.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2LgU8ik6SzqUkLYRMoUx4fKxHr_uVTGSZ79FPebOLAQKX94MvyHPEe-fKks2iTwx6z1_fjYFgBWd8Tucaq19Wh6yBEtP99w2B1-xpqOrKo_o2NPyRHJtCEnQGY5h13RIoEHXc4VhdES8/s320/P1020729.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5571258236676669730" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJl5_05fApCaWPHupxrMQOQRpo6CJH8NNpG_ajTWxSGD7ZSHX4_XJ14GmuvUSc5EY-NtRI6w4T6h04pdZxcr0f7YKLztrR-X8h_KrgtrC9Z_1mqRM61_J2QRPyItWoRKktOA3TxjGp12I/s1600/P1020731.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJl5_05fApCaWPHupxrMQOQRpo6CJH8NNpG_ajTWxSGD7ZSHX4_XJ14GmuvUSc5EY-NtRI6w4T6h04pdZxcr0f7YKLztrR-X8h_KrgtrC9Z_1mqRM61_J2QRPyItWoRKktOA3TxjGp12I/s320/P1020731.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5571258239628137026" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">After another hour or so of riding through this landscape, we crossed the border into Oman. Well, sort of. Apparently you drive through a portion of Oman just to reach Hatta because you don’t leave your car and soon are once more in the Emirate of Dubai where you can find a shopping strip of just about every clay pot you could imagine. Shop after shop sells these pots so that should you decide to shop, you would have no shortage of choice and probably the ability to bargain to your price. After a short ride more, you pass through the small town of Hatta and find the real border.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">There are numerous expat fora and sites documenting how to do this border run, but below is our experience for anyone interested. We parked and walked up to the UAE visa office where I was stamped out of the country easily. Danny, as my driver, was allowed to go into the No-Man’s-Land between the countries without the exit stamp provided he didn’t continue into Oman. So we drove the few kilometers to the Omani border checkpoint (which, as a nice plastered building in traditional Omani style made the portable bungalows of the UAE side look shabby) and parked on the No-Man’s-Land side. We walked in and joined the queue (which frustratingly was closed before we reached the window only to reopen after we had joined the back of another queue) waiting to get my visa. A quick 200 AED payment was followed by both entry and exit stamps in my passport, and within half an hour Danny and I were out the door and back in the car. Stopping again at the UAE checkpoint, I got my new UAE visa, no questions asked, and was legal yet again, this time until I would depart by plane.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Well, since we had driven so far out of town for this (expensive) stamp, Danny and I figured we would make a day of it and spend the afternoon exploring the rocky border between the two countries. At no time were we entirely sure which country we were in as it seemed like we crossed back into the unofficial Omani border at least once. However after an hour or so of asking directions and off-road driving (in a small front-wheel drive car), we arrived at the Hatta Rock Pools. While much more impressive after rain (which is very rare), the pools were still a cool collection of smoothed rock formations created over time by the forces of wind and water. As the late afternoon sun slowly dipped to the horizon, we hopped from rock to rock over the pools, stopping where the level was high enough to feel the cool water within. After a while, we reached a point where it was difficult to go further and so stopped to relax, watch the sun set, and reflect on the absolute silence of nature. In a city like Dubai, it is hard to imagine silence sometimes, but out here with the lack of vegetation and animals, you could sit and hear nothing for several minutes. Eventually an unseen bird would shatter the silence with a shrill call, another might respond, but then again would exist nothingness—a perfect void through which the sun slowly sank, its long rays creating cavernous black holes in the rocks around us.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_hD_DJ_NnpcrsROlQ29vzfiraRerqh2JYaa91jZ0GztahC8vuqM0p8N8DLQCSGoRWoRRzXgZymGYxcMSTA27bQlnxEt8N7mklgeyXA-S348Ww1AHbb9V5v5sr8WxWrvKOQOZM104xPS8/s1600/P1020737.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_hD_DJ_NnpcrsROlQ29vzfiraRerqh2JYaa91jZ0GztahC8vuqM0p8N8DLQCSGoRWoRRzXgZymGYxcMSTA27bQlnxEt8N7mklgeyXA-S348Ww1AHbb9V5v5sr8WxWrvKOQOZM104xPS8/s320/P1020737.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5571259611273137746" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha0bcROFaBnX6hitiUYpH6ExEpBY3VTvR-kFG9lsKWiRqxIM_HM1ufNGmSfJmXHi7uXbtVZ1aCXkZ4PV4dKB-10kjHyvx2cFfPhvyDPDGz3BGRXdyPUwIZmBJQqbEmESLoRENWJ9dltG0/s1600/P1020738.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha0bcROFaBnX6hitiUYpH6ExEpBY3VTvR-kFG9lsKWiRqxIM_HM1ufNGmSfJmXHi7uXbtVZ1aCXkZ4PV4dKB-10kjHyvx2cFfPhvyDPDGz3BGRXdyPUwIZmBJQqbEmESLoRENWJ9dltG0/s320/P1020738.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5571259608093289698" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">As the sun finally slunk below the horizon, we figured it was time to go before all light was gone and the bumpy road was harder to find. Now that we had blazed the trail the first time out, the road back was easier, and soon we found ourselves at the Hatta Fort Hotel for a nice dinner. Danny said this was his favorite stop en route back to Dubai when he made his border runs, and for both of us, a Scot and an American, the lingering Christmas music, lights, and tree in the dining room provided one last hint of the holiday season.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">If you’ve never experienced an empty desert, don’t write it off as barren or ugly. If there is anything that this day showed me, it is that the rolling dunes, windswept hills, and rocky outcrops are not only beautiful in themselves, but can hide pockets of beauty like the Hatta pools within their midst. If you are in Dubai and need a natural escape, steer course for Hatta. Get your visa stamped and then explore the natural beauty as a respite from the bustle and volume of the city. It is well worth the time, provides a great emotional recharge, and if you go with a friend is a wonderful time to chat and share experiences.</p>Rob Besthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09463964785697202357noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9070652898233554429.post-27796696106125553342011-01-23T21:21:00.000-08:002011-01-23T22:09:55.858-08:00The Emirate of Abu Dhabi<div style="text-align: left;">My time in the Middle East was not just limited to the city and Emirate of Dubai. In fact, my primary aim for heading to the UAE was to learn more about the Masdar City project in Abu Dhabi, not just to explore the fantastic hotels and luxurious lifestyle of its rival city along the coast. So both for fun and work I traveled several times into the city of Abu Dhabi and once out to Al Ain, the other major city in the emirate to experience more of what the UAE has to offer both for city planning and green building and for cultural learning. This post will try and explore a bit of both while reserving a bigger discussion on Masdar City for a later entry.</div> <p class="MsoNormal">Let’s start with the fun side of Abu Dhabi. Long overshadowed by Dubai, Abu Dhabi is rapidly transforming itself into the cultural hub of the UAE through massive developments on its multiple islands and on the mainland. The recently opened Yas Island developments sport a world-class F1 race course, the accompanying Ferrari World theme park, a beautiful golf course, and multiple five star hotels and restaurants. While it all sounds fancy, I actually didn’t venture out to this pricey paradise during my stay choosing instead to explore the older part of the city and its cultural offerings.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Walking around downtown Abu Dhabi, it is easy to see why the city is rapidly trying to change its face. Older buildings line arterial road ways with only a few malls, cultural landmarks, or other points of interest for visitors.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>After hopping off of the inter-emirates bus from Dubai, you find yourself on a busy road with mid-rise towers in both directions as far as the eye can see. Nearby Al Wahda Mall provides a shopper’s haven that seems unremarkable after the extravagance of the Dubai Mall and the Mall of the Emirates. Take a bus out to Marina Mall, and though this center of weekend life has more gimmicks to attract visitors, it still does not attain the “wow” factor of Dubai’s shopping meccas. After indoor ski slopes and aquariums, fountains and a small ice rink seem tame in comparison.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">If you’re looking for culture, however, Abu Dhabi may have Dubai’s number. If you want the touristy experience, like Dubai, in Abu Dhabi you can begin with a Heritage Village where you can see traditional homes and arts being used and practiced in a sample of what past Emirati life was like.</p><p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaTyqLRmF6vjhNVevQNOAD0Z5ioioizTgGNxnhYT3BKmd2AK9t2Ru3H8IfUuUr8GCAi8Obgu4DbRbOOxE3n3aA7aGWUn62vwUmv065224owhWOGeIsbYIKX8Vh0gEQCI-le85tnvaJCKQ/s320/618+Heritage+Village+in+Abu+Dhabi.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565626849251014034" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal">From there, when construction is finished, check out the fort in the middle of the city (closed when I was there) and pass by the fort in the water on the road to Dubai (but apparently this is still a military institution so be careful taking photos—the one below was snapped from the road that runs by it).</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4j3sl2shBingiq64wd0QKF8pX7Sei3QZITJvQxtVV0ox6ReIfwffwdm_mJJhyphenhyphen7G7cjq6Bwk5bJCMJKM5Dii6b58lQ_8cWQSLo5NzTY5CqWENLIBi4QF9GWIeDhlkUI1Y2HAlEYQkMa6g/s320/P1020007.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565618895550649682" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Yet if you are really looking for historical sites in the emirate, head out of town to Al Ain, the oasis city. Unfortunately I didn’t get a chance to fully explore the gardens for which the city is known or the mountain Jebel Hafeet, the second tallest in the UAE. Instead, on my trip to Al Ain, I headed for the Al Ain Wildlife Park, a partnership with the San Diego Zoo to create a world-class research and zoological center. Much of the area is under construction at the moment to create large exhibit zones and resorts reminiscent of the San Diego Wild Animal Park, but the zoo still has an impressive array of animals ranging from native Arabian species to several of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_lion">South Africa’s rare white lions</a>.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq-cEMN1kSb1Zyc0WAEGF7DkYEBCqkCYc0YOHO_wqxR1W8tu1mrSlhl8_IuV-Dwgl_1HjWRb67TjAzQTSjMPy4QQKga5G-HwKCknSv7vUTMmPU4mUlxa0ZDdV8LBCo4PRgQ78OMKt2nAc/s1600/P1010784.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq-cEMN1kSb1Zyc0WAEGF7DkYEBCqkCYc0YOHO_wqxR1W8tu1mrSlhl8_IuV-Dwgl_1HjWRb67TjAzQTSjMPy4QQKga5G-HwKCknSv7vUTMmPU4mUlxa0ZDdV8LBCo4PRgQ78OMKt2nAc/s320/P1010784.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565618904803552818" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb-mBULWhWsReiNc9BJ4UMj3b-NWMVOSBeldbHFwWxRf6TDOgooC3bCFQCDjU4U3MzeK97hKumpcGmTw4BdFLxL7kbKwhc_NSQYah5iBBF99u6KFe-ocFpqrNZ6wU99aPNRFARPL-IB5s/s1600/P1010750.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb-mBULWhWsReiNc9BJ4UMj3b-NWMVOSBeldbHFwWxRf6TDOgooC3bCFQCDjU4U3MzeK97hKumpcGmTw4BdFLxL7kbKwhc_NSQYah5iBBF99u6KFe-ocFpqrNZ6wU99aPNRFARPL-IB5s/s320/P1010750.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565618897020306962" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYTm_tVffNcm7xzkdYawjzFvetST3SalkaoTPS2Bhex0OIMLDhmk53vgjSlDuSSoZxQoNRK_8SaE_sgBwy8uabAhyphenhyphenbJ1iL_u3nhJ5e-r3GFuYnKd-LRRiZyDlC12Ckmul8RhcjjyQLLsc/s1600/P1010685.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYTm_tVffNcm7xzkdYawjzFvetST3SalkaoTPS2Bhex0OIMLDhmk53vgjSlDuSSoZxQoNRK_8SaE_sgBwy8uabAhyphenhyphenbJ1iL_u3nhJ5e-r3GFuYnKd-LRRiZyDlC12Ckmul8RhcjjyQLLsc/s320/P1010685.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565618898569991138" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCYMEKlQg7stZ2buKnASPzn16GN3jF4AbHGjx8-DO87azSNEWo_RgUpplZqKBZk8vTLyOyx_aNRFEUlsOKkBswvrjWUnVaYj-WzwujO08bueVl7Wh7ZLYH2qNTNCA-HCb1xstnzNmgUwQ/s1600/P1010666.JPG"></a></span></b></p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCYMEKlQg7stZ2buKnASPzn16GN3jF4AbHGjx8-DO87azSNEWo_RgUpplZqKBZk8vTLyOyx_aNRFEUlsOKkBswvrjWUnVaYj-WzwujO08bueVl7Wh7ZLYH2qNTNCA-HCb1xstnzNmgUwQ/s1600/P1010666.JPG"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none; "></span></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnKxoHM5Gm84D7bizU5fRNZ66DTVYgiSf1HN0UfUWU3g8BtYz4YbtfVK0-KXOnS4pRKoUgq18ewCsIcbT0Uk2YuDYIoOjHLULKESS7qci6SiwQwFbBKeQOwMkHVzamqMish9pi5CADspg/s1600/P1010992.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnKxoHM5Gm84D7bizU5fRNZ66DTVYgiSf1HN0UfUWU3g8BtYz4YbtfVK0-KXOnS4pRKoUgq18ewCsIcbT0Uk2YuDYIoOjHLULKESS7qci6SiwQwFbBKeQOwMkHVzamqMish9pi5CADspg/s320/P1010992.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565620061457743810" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMTqumnlwZK5umLn3oiPXDGkRp_4uFOxHb-ZJuZe2Q6P3BxqR0RonoqY3qRg-siRmZuPHLG69BqLVGZWbdvf3aN6QRifHNXJlr2J9ujGii2Ujb8rqv8pls3XW2Im8PEEtcQFLmbN8O9S0/s1600/P1010822.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMTqumnlwZK5umLn3oiPXDGkRp_4uFOxHb-ZJuZe2Q6P3BxqR0RonoqY3qRg-siRmZuPHLG69BqLVGZWbdvf3aN6QRifHNXJlr2J9ujGii2Ujb8rqv8pls3XW2Im8PEEtcQFLmbN8O9S0/s320/P1010822.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565620058466571266" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCYMEKlQg7stZ2buKnASPzn16GN3jF4AbHGjx8-DO87azSNEWo_RgUpplZqKBZk8vTLyOyx_aNRFEUlsOKkBswvrjWUnVaYj-WzwujO08bueVl7Wh7ZLYH2qNTNCA-HCb1xstnzNmgUwQ/s320/P1010666.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565618893182194418" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">For those who have been following my blog since my days in Beijing, you will recall <a href="http://robswatsonadventure.blogspot.com/2010/11/my-living-laboratory.html">I posted a long section</a> on what I learned and observed at the Beijing Zoo. Well, contrary to that experience where families screamed, threw rocks and food, and taunted the animals, in Al Ain the atmosphere was much more reverent. Perhaps the idea of being a world-class zoo has bred respect in the visitors or perhaps the much smaller number of visitors meant each was more accountable for his actions. Whatever the reason, in Al Ain, visitors were much more respectful and did not bang on the glass, throw food and rocks, or yell at the animals. In one instance I saw a little girl throw something at the cheetah perhaps because his eyeing her scared her but she was quickly swooped up and reprimanded by her father. To me, this could be indicative of a more advanced ecological or environmental awareness in the UAE compared to China. However, as I mentioned before, the social surroundings were vastly different so the comparison is not entirely apt.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">One of the best parts of the day, in my opinion, was watching the bird show in the evening where a bit about falconry, a cultural sport of the UAE, was presented and discussed. I have heard several (including during my visit) decry this practice as animal cruelty because the falcons are kept caged and hooded when not hunting, but the flip side is that this is a traditional action much like whale hunting in Japan and northern Europe. It has significance to Emiratis and others in the Gulf and is marked by a respect for the falcons and not simply a desire to master them. When listening to an Emirati speak about falconry, there often is a detectable awe of the bird’s power and swiftness. I suppose after considering each side, it seems to me that the cultural and historical aspects of the practice are similar enough to other protected actions that some consider animal cruelty that unless practices such as whale hunting are stopped completely, neither should falconry be.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvM9Ys6Ng_GvYMVo041LYwNYIE77Pgh93yuJkMjcPJsluKWOD71A9YjmkH7_Pyj_4mdooaBd4vDN8Gfx2-A4CSTqepEiIlNVruuiCzbCqvv8l0gGUF4_rV4up8mO0aFEH0n4fzNJ_6m-o/s1600/P1020003.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvM9Ys6Ng_GvYMVo041LYwNYIE77Pgh93yuJkMjcPJsluKWOD71A9YjmkH7_Pyj_4mdooaBd4vDN8Gfx2-A4CSTqepEiIlNVruuiCzbCqvv8l0gGUF4_rV4up8mO0aFEH0n4fzNJ_6m-o/s320/P1020003.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565620065368916530" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDEO-EjGfx816pNAUFt2W4slzBZVcTRnGb4lVLh-BF_gLy4TToV7V2m1hSpo7mzPACy88ZiVm3xx4z8qu5rjS2mEzMgBong7RkQ-zSqL7tCBy1CItXTgLQ5C4D56At3eQAgYkrtnFbovs/s1600/P1010999.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDEO-EjGfx816pNAUFt2W4slzBZVcTRnGb4lVLh-BF_gLy4TToV7V2m1hSpo7mzPACy88ZiVm3xx4z8qu5rjS2mEzMgBong7RkQ-zSqL7tCBy1CItXTgLQ5C4D56At3eQAgYkrtnFbovs/s320/P1010999.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565620066684035330" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Returning to the city of Abu Dhabi, there are several other sights worth your time. Perhaps the largest tourist draw is the massive, and impressive, Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque. Built with personal funds of the late ruler in an amount unknown to the public, this white marble edifice rises from the desert off the Dubai-Abu Dhabi road with its four towering minarets and multiple bulbous domes as a proud statement of the strength of the UAE’s faith. Impressive inside and out, this building features marble imported from all over the world to give slightly different shades as you wander through. The massive carpets, constructed in single pieces for each of the large halls are intricately detailed and beautifully ornamented. Rising from them are massive pillars and archways punctuated in gold at the capitals. The whole experience is breathtaking and stunning –certainly worth a visit.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijCnMXcJBPbUmW8caQXG9CLkekemAVu_lDXtW4O1Llj8_ut3eAsgfkoIUUQ_I1q-Jz-dP9ULY50xDPgOzp9FKiYSkLVxDKsLdG5mNh18MsWMxs7W4Yli-axjik6SFAs-lUORPU_9PhsEA/s320/P1020008.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565620075044214770" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal"></p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align: center; "><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWkAwqDRLVQTTGf6amOIxq9fpWmJqz69T7-TEVteQf8kI_r2bvI3qpywIii8Z08o8-Xxn3JVeFCuHNbRk9qoFEnybGEsjjBobaNtpAGAwjC1LeyY8ZYQEqGadNpZFLEXWMDPNbPI2f_n4/s1600/P1020423.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWkAwqDRLVQTTGf6amOIxq9fpWmJqz69T7-TEVteQf8kI_r2bvI3qpywIii8Z08o8-Xxn3JVeFCuHNbRk9qoFEnybGEsjjBobaNtpAGAwjC1LeyY8ZYQEqGadNpZFLEXWMDPNbPI2f_n4/s320/P1020423.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565622717606753458" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8-IhrOQ2R5h5ofzeeiw3Io3fJSlWFLfSEpno4__WNv22MidSSbLn_VwGEdm-taqE5VeZqAu3U9IM3gfPbzlfOxia8qWDlTBZzTrpz2y7dGYu3I6eyrzAChSuwiLgnyReoXc1CseX0xcA/s1600/P1020435.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8-IhrOQ2R5h5ofzeeiw3Io3fJSlWFLfSEpno4__WNv22MidSSbLn_VwGEdm-taqE5VeZqAu3U9IM3gfPbzlfOxia8qWDlTBZzTrpz2y7dGYu3I6eyrzAChSuwiLgnyReoXc1CseX0xcA/s320/P1020435.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565622716336891362" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixqNwz0VmeM0Q_aEcoSv2EpXNf_HV1Z9jzYswneq6Wu9gjgZ9LIswaQR4H13RYzGcNiwd9HfdMwW3yFc64Sbe3aLaRUPhU_VmItjiCY3EN9jiKTI6JGPfvILeFeNV-Aew-GMMfVSn4KX4/s1600/P1020441.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixqNwz0VmeM0Q_aEcoSv2EpXNf_HV1Z9jzYswneq6Wu9gjgZ9LIswaQR4H13RYzGcNiwd9HfdMwW3yFc64Sbe3aLaRUPhU_VmItjiCY3EN9jiKTI6JGPfvILeFeNV-Aew-GMMfVSn4KX4/s320/P1020441.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565622711747505362" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTf8eFGXUXlRNhf5Z1wqjFgUoiyC9x4bx_9fkfm71khIMs38cNfBcdeKf2LPCDSGSx5zrkGMhPg6UMtj9PL2BShx-74jR8nn4OBnsJcLb1MYb_m2SebZkG8NzrpdhoUko92JOytJ1UVxI/s1600/P1020452.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTf8eFGXUXlRNhf5Z1wqjFgUoiyC9x4bx_9fkfm71khIMs38cNfBcdeKf2LPCDSGSx5zrkGMhPg6UMtj9PL2BShx-74jR8nn4OBnsJcLb1MYb_m2SebZkG8NzrpdhoUko92JOytJ1UVxI/s320/P1020452.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565622714212363266" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Qj_U9ZC5TAPA7pcPp1SZa0f2b8JusauWw9-ibf4D02yyUZq2nAusm2jtGIqUQQ8WtwH0WPdYD1buQgNx4-xYR1AMcMWqAnWVk3XS7lM1p03FY5YjQJtTRGV12L8YETKWtCVyNlH8mpE/s1600/P1020454.JPG"></a></span></b></p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align: center; "><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Qj_U9ZC5TAPA7pcPp1SZa0f2b8JusauWw9-ibf4D02yyUZq2nAusm2jtGIqUQQ8WtwH0WPdYD1buQgNx4-xYR1AMcMWqAnWVk3XS7lM1p03FY5YjQJtTRGV12L8YETKWtCVyNlH8mpE/s1600/P1020454.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Qj_U9ZC5TAPA7pcPp1SZa0f2b8JusauWw9-ibf4D02yyUZq2nAusm2jtGIqUQQ8WtwH0WPdYD1buQgNx4-xYR1AMcMWqAnWVk3XS7lM1p03FY5YjQJtTRGV12L8YETKWtCVyNlH8mpE/s320/P1020454.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565622707628632594" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></span></b></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy_jKg6EYKaJi_inaEtOYhhWoWWnIth0ebDX_JkLBCYpc_04GHTbGbQtqDsoumdj84EWCiNWILfC2frrUn4qxu6OzgsKdxl1iDW8JfU5JRak04k9SjhGq3Cppll6lS81oP332WoVZTbiI/s1600/P1020491.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy_jKg6EYKaJi_inaEtOYhhWoWWnIth0ebDX_JkLBCYpc_04GHTbGbQtqDsoumdj84EWCiNWILfC2frrUn4qxu6OzgsKdxl1iDW8JfU5JRak04k9SjhGq3Cppll6lS81oP332WoVZTbiI/s320/P1020491.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565623430461625266" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkc4jcqFm1r28SdOfGCLHEBPsXyOI_uSrpr0rUyrwnh3tTl2gSp5b3jC7f-_nGJw2h1lon_Iv7lEEP9FVO9hG1CnFfiRrXfhdTPK3CJsQ5vSlAFOmwf0VU5FPqrKI1BSZVo0o8mp21FsU/s1600/P1020479.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkc4jcqFm1r28SdOfGCLHEBPsXyOI_uSrpr0rUyrwnh3tTl2gSp5b3jC7f-_nGJw2h1lon_Iv7lEEP9FVO9hG1CnFfiRrXfhdTPK3CJsQ5vSlAFOmwf0VU5FPqrKI1BSZVo0o8mp21FsU/s320/P1020479.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565623424577006114" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></p><p></p><p class="MsoNormal">After experiencing the mosque, take some time to explore some of the other sights of Abu Dhabi as well. If you follow the road from the main bus station in the city out towards the ocean, you pass first by the main souk which is a large covered shopping center with all manner of goods that supposedly is quite lively in the evenings (I only visited in the late afternoon when half of the shops were not yet open). Past this, there are some large statues depicting typical items from UAE culture—an incense burner, a cannon, and others.</p><p class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKwy3_Gn2XtrMt_lH5FAtwBCHDOUnQ9eVP81xxwcPxqLjSFwxgpdw5tUfDZr-Uzo4JWO7PJKV4KrXLzvaryXprqLCi3q-IRhkVRj7mx_m58e7gwIuegPg8VHdqe5wQtruBtSls2gRqj2o/s1600/P1020021.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKwy3_Gn2XtrMt_lH5FAtwBCHDOUnQ9eVP81xxwcPxqLjSFwxgpdw5tUfDZr-Uzo4JWO7PJKV4KrXLzvaryXprqLCi3q-IRhkVRj7mx_m58e7gwIuegPg8VHdqe5wQtruBtSls2gRqj2o/s320/P1020021.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565630490151373842" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRNty5LbnIXmj4VQmpwVFczgReJDTjhPOatJJHHAzosmodJVuhR1h6s6cph4ijIFCThMtr_Wg_eFa8AMM1k40xeBfaWchXOdxY19ZOrqd0GlRkC1lnsGqiRRfo21ZE974ukegWmc_Un_Q/s1600/P1020019.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRNty5LbnIXmj4VQmpwVFczgReJDTjhPOatJJHHAzosmodJVuhR1h6s6cph4ijIFCThMtr_Wg_eFa8AMM1k40xeBfaWchXOdxY19ZOrqd0GlRkC1lnsGqiRRfo21ZE974ukegWmc_Un_Q/s320/P1020019.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565630490183114290" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal">Yet it is past these still that you reach what I think is the best area in Dubai—the Corniche. Though it is currently under construction to add a nice broad beach, the existing walkway makes for a beautiful, relaxing stroll if you stay high enough that you see over the construction fences. Beginning with the park at the end of the main road, you can stroll for an hour or more toward the breakwater and take in views of the sunset over Marina Mall and the islands off the coast. After what seems like endless construction fencing, you arrive at the existing beach where you can either enter and take a dip or stop and watch the sunset over the mall and Emirates Palace with palm trees, grass, and beaches in the foreground. The whole experience is a great end to the day and a nice way to wind down. Don’t be surprised to see joggers passing you the whole time—this beautiful walk makes the best place for maintaining for shape in a city without a lot of nature.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE6XGnRyOPYWpLRfTwV3elRhOiKpr-3zxmloSMcWVat0QpGrfrhbyp-s93vpQAySE85UUfwXby_tY5-MumG79I57gbnKc3yCTms-8W4S1BXiSD9u6VE4LFrfsbdA8nkUbI877HDMRVmFY/s1600/P1020030.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE6XGnRyOPYWpLRfTwV3elRhOiKpr-3zxmloSMcWVat0QpGrfrhbyp-s93vpQAySE85UUfwXby_tY5-MumG79I57gbnKc3yCTms-8W4S1BXiSD9u6VE4LFrfsbdA8nkUbI877HDMRVmFY/s320/P1020030.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565623442788988066" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1JuXi2RawmjX3IJhu_Gxu1FbeUrOoEVb7zm7X9mpscd_MC8QDFBW2VQC79e7CL3c6EtxnjLVSH1uZgZLQrZD6B4mYOIfxWYWWKKiugpbY6_2Cud56ik_Mr8kg0POT_yvliDo48bHtS_M/s1600/P1020042.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1JuXi2RawmjX3IJhu_Gxu1FbeUrOoEVb7zm7X9mpscd_MC8QDFBW2VQC79e7CL3c6EtxnjLVSH1uZgZLQrZD6B4mYOIfxWYWWKKiugpbY6_2Cud56ik_Mr8kg0POT_yvliDo48bHtS_M/s320/P1020042.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565623443270027938" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBqfXkVfoP90fiDdHwoOw1cc4KrDXTFKnnn5WF5MShvHqWAfLs2nrxlwOZzORPzp8zvAQnaFh4p1YQCS-6Iu-E4snDCYm2vQQv0EbxZg5icQsTN86x0iRldnvDhwuywDJoKlE84C0FsvM/s1600/P1020071.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBqfXkVfoP90fiDdHwoOw1cc4KrDXTFKnnn5WF5MShvHqWAfLs2nrxlwOZzORPzp8zvAQnaFh4p1YQCS-6Iu-E4snDCYm2vQQv0EbxZg5icQsTN86x0iRldnvDhwuywDJoKlE84C0FsvM/s320/P1020071.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565623434988447410" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></span></b></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirMcYCMv3TN_GYzGDb6EbCz21T09wSgH-BvFwfJ8FEvW-AK5AMs-bTscoM-oBdS3SQTy_XfWhCG2dX__-lfbYK_6Xt82vHD8L8y4P8rmLUIoaPmin16boI2LeYyC_YCqBSr07JcePX5Uk/s320/P1020089.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565624190940640210" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal">After the sun finally dips below the horizon and you’ve enjoyed the fast food or ice cream further down the beach, continue walking until you reach the massive, ostentatious, gated 7-star hotel called Emirates Palace. You can’t miss it, but just be sure to walk to the second gate to pay a visit—the first one is reserved for the ruler and members of his family only. Walking up the winding drive you catch great glimpses of the water fountains in front of the hotel and can gaze at the beautiful European building all lit up. It’s just as beautiful in the day, and whether day or night, the interior is impressive. Gilt columns and ceilings put the finishing touch on marble colonnades, finely decorated stairwells, and lavish balconies. A multi-storey domed atrium is the centerpiece of the building and at Christmastime, one of the times I visited, houses <a href="http://pursuitist.com/travel/emirates-palace-hotel-unveils-most-expensive-christmas-tree-ever/">the most expensive Christmas tree in the world</a>. Dripping with jewels, necklaces, earrings, and gemstone-studded ornaments, this year’s tree set the all-time record for the most expensive Christmas tree ever. That’s on top of the fact that it is real—something most malls do not do because all trees here have to be imported, thus adding to the cost.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivoxHX75zxCAuxRhYgNrzdZPYWj5tApOMHD4FhO8PSwtWOnX7R4srul8hVKouJyB4TFfTxPJhkXo6VxSNJwgLUhXoi-8Swz30-WKhU0p0p9lgBdsoQJJEMU9PKJyy0hOmivyPDu7paHYM/s1600/635+Emirates+Palace.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivoxHX75zxCAuxRhYgNrzdZPYWj5tApOMHD4FhO8PSwtWOnX7R4srul8hVKouJyB4TFfTxPJhkXo6VxSNJwgLUhXoi-8Swz30-WKhU0p0p9lgBdsoQJJEMU9PKJyy0hOmivyPDu7paHYM/s320/635+Emirates+Palace.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565624216690513026" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhaPIcBUiXmq2gj-nJwkSgqDh7GD9h7ae-6y3lHQx7LWqaSJkMTWouBXGVLz9JqfNFzpiyaIV28ShuraJ3fIo-GCuwSG3IP7LiU9coNJmeqk5Wx3W884S4k6235Vuv6Hz0Sq9_R3ieaCo/s1600/637+Emirates+Palace.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhaPIcBUiXmq2gj-nJwkSgqDh7GD9h7ae-6y3lHQx7LWqaSJkMTWouBXGVLz9JqfNFzpiyaIV28ShuraJ3fIo-GCuwSG3IP7LiU9coNJmeqk5Wx3W884S4k6235Vuv6Hz0Sq9_R3ieaCo/s320/637+Emirates+Palace.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565624204122216354" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheVixhjpkE5aO-ncSJl9stmIu_iJOjU0JwDD4OJKMdVo_PCoem3AqzAnxd6lWsF4EaOQljbq9FSS70k3XNZ36t8xBcA5guCAi_xc4f-8guzIGD6pOuViH0yMEyzVpfZ6iWl6tSpmK_P5g/s1600/P1020506.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheVixhjpkE5aO-ncSJl9stmIu_iJOjU0JwDD4OJKMdVo_PCoem3AqzAnxd6lWsF4EaOQljbq9FSS70k3XNZ36t8xBcA5guCAi_xc4f-8guzIGD6pOuViH0yMEyzVpfZ6iWl6tSpmK_P5g/s320/P1020506.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565624199231953186" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></span></b></p><div><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW2atCayoQWxgRLaArESoy5GX5UyGT6GBmW1zNjjMHyN0cVE2c31ZyKGbWhBec4rDZwajNdvoVAGNVxdmQJcw2Olm9g0W7cCWMipr5XJkayyV7wJIffZSWk4cfaa-PLkOgDDyzTyeXj9I/s1600/P1020509.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW2atCayoQWxgRLaArESoy5GX5UyGT6GBmW1zNjjMHyN0cVE2c31ZyKGbWhBec4rDZwajNdvoVAGNVxdmQJcw2Olm9g0W7cCWMipr5XJkayyV7wJIffZSWk4cfaa-PLkOgDDyzTyeXj9I/s320/P1020509.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565624195838937858" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></span></b></span></b></div> <p class="MsoNormal">If you have thousands to splurge, perhaps stay at the hotel, but if not, grab a coffee next to the live music, admire the galleries on the ground floor, and when you feel as if you don’t belong among the opulence, head back to the bus station for Dubai knowing that you’ve left Abu Dhabi’s 7-star answer to the Burj al Arab.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Well, that’s the fun and touristy part of Abu Dhabi that I experienced. One other activity I would recommend if you have a car (but is hard to access without, as I learned) is the camel races about 45 km outside of Abu Dhabi. They happen early Thursday mornings, or so I’m told, and should be quite the sight since the camels are driven by electronic jockeys (the use of child jockeys was outlawed a few years back) and chased by owners in SUVs. If I have one regret from the UAE it is not finding a way to glimpse this spectacle.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">So now on to the business side of Abu Dhabi, at least for me—the urban planning and massive development that is taking hold of the city and will continue until 2030. Learning from the rapid, sporadic, and ultimately stalled growth of Dubai, the government of Abu Dhabi laid out a comprehensive plan recently for how the city will develop between now and 2030. The Abu Dhabi 2030 Plan includes several new districts, a massive urban transit upgrade that spans subway, light rail, trams, buses, and more, and guidelines for new and existing roads that will be safer and more comfortable for pedestrians and drivers. Compared to Dubai, which as I mentioned in <a href="http://robswatsonadventure.blogspot.com/2011/01/view-from-top.html">one of my previous posts</a> developed in segmented plots owned by large companies, this comprehensive, unified plan seeks to make a better, more sustainable urban center. Perhaps this attempt at a better city is partly the latest in the semi-rivalry between the two emirates—the capital (Abu Dhabi) and the one everyone knows (Dubai).</p> <p class="MsoNormal">From an environmental standpoint, the centerpiece of this new development is <a href="http://www.masdar.ae/masdar2010/en/home/index.aspx">Masdar City</a>—a masterplanned sustainable urban center near the Abu Dhabi airport that seeks to be the first zero-carbon city in the world (maybe—more on this in a later post). The hope is that Masdar will influence the surrounding area and generate a new mode of urbanism that can be exported to Abu Dhabi, the GCC, and eventually the world. Independent of Masdar, Abu Dhabi is already undertaking significant efforts to improve its environmental footprint. One impressive measure is the attention paid in the Abu Dhabi 2030 plan to pedestrian and public transit. Whereas Dubai is nearly impossible to navigate on foot and is just now venturing into effective public transit, Abu Dhabi is trying to plan for these services to expand with the city. Detailed diagrams in documents relating to the master plan show how streets are to be classified and designed to segregate pedestrians safely from vehicles and provide comfortable, shaded areas for walking.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The question remains, however, as to whether this alone can change the current trend in the UAE towards bigger and more vehicles. As one architect told me, there is a trend in this nation to use your car even to drive half a block between stores. Part of that is because in summer it is too unbearably hot to walk, and partly because people have become so reliant on their cars that they do not even think to walk. Shading the streets is the first step, but the second is actually influencing behavior. Certainly there are groups in Abu Dhabi such as the Environment Agency that are working hard to try and change the mentality of Abu Dhabi’s residents, but awareness is still generally low on environmental issues. Numerous times I heard that many people know about environmental problems such as climate change but they may not know how they are affected or how they can make a difference. There is a disconnect between reports that water is scarce and energy intensive in Abu Dhabi and actions such as taking shorter showers or flipping off lights. Part of this is that electricity is so heavily subisidized that there is no fiscal incentive to save energy. However another issue is just a general lack of environmental education in the UAE. And even when classes are taught to save energy, some feel that the mode of education is to tell residents not to use so much energy or water to which the response is “You can’t tell me what to do.” Some feel, instead, that it is better to give the information and facts on water saving and energy saving in the home and let residents decide—if they feel it is their choice and their revelation, they are more likely to embrace it.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Getting back to the Abu Dhabi 2030 plan, perhaps the most important environmental initiative included in the plan is the recently released <a href="http://www.estidama.org/">Estidama regulations</a>. After two years of preparation, this code is a new standard for ecologically sensitive buildings and includes regulations for everything from villas to new developments. The system ranks buildings on environmental, social, cultural, and economic parameters with a focus on promoting integrated design from the very beginning of a project. It gives credit for environmental and social initiatives and connectivity for the property to rate buildings on a scale of 1 to 3 Pearls. (Pearls are important in the UAE as pearl diving was a primary economic engine for the region prior to the discovery of oil.)</p> <p class="MsoNormal">One of the most progressive aspects of Estidama is that it is being incorporated in the master plan as mandatory for all new construction and is tied to the permitting process. This means that if you cannot demonstrate that your project is on target to meet the minimum 1 Pearl requirement, then you cannot move ahead with your project. Furthermore, unlike other rating systems that only certify a building after completion, Estidama has three check-off points at which the building must demonstrate compliance with written standards and targets. The first of these is in the design phase where the planning team is responsible for documenting roles, responsibilities, and strategies for the project and then lay out how they plan to achieve a given rating. Once approved, this rating target can be used to market the project and to guide the team moving forward. The second check-off comes after construction to ensure that between the design submitted to the Urban Planning Council and the final product nothing was changed. Here again, the building must be certified with at least 1 Pearl to become operational. While the ranking can change between the two check-offs, the building must not drop below minimum compliance. The same is true between the second and third check-offs, with the latter occurring after 1 year of operation. This is to ensure that the modeled performance is actual occurring and helps to eliminate a common problem in the UAE—lack of maintenance and lack of knowledge of maintenance and facilities operators on the specific challenges of minimizing energy and water use during building operation. A building can only ever be as green as those operating it choose to make it. No matter how good the structure may be, if those using the building don’t do so properly, even a “green” bullding could be among the worst offenders.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">What really makes Estidama unique from other systems is a combination of its mandatory nature, its multiple check-offs, and its focus on integrated design. One of the common frustrations with the ubiquitous LEED rating system is that points can be netted to improve ratings simply by tacking on some efficient systems or a bike rack after a poor building has been designed. It was these issues that drove <a href="http://www.constructionweekonline.com/article-8393-leed-rankings-bogus-frank-gehry/">renowned architect Frank Gehry to proclaim the system “bogus”</a>. (Ed. note: This author does not personally agree with Mr. Gehry’s claim. The simple fact that LEED has increased the awareness and consciousness of green buildings and the continual efforts of the USGBC to reform and improve the system to address these and other concerns are, in my opinion, testament to the validity and importance of LEED.) One researcher in India who was impressed with Estidama described LEED as a system to make bad buildings better but not to strongly encourage good buildings; Estidama, he said, was the next step in requiring and promoting good design. On the other hand, Estidama requires a commitment from the design team to integrate and strive to incorporate passive, smart design to reduce energy and water demand before applying technology. This is by far the better strategy for creating sustainable buildings as most of the savings come from simply considering natural factors such as prevailing winds, availability of daylight, and heat gain from various orientations. Once this is taken care of, you can reduce your baseline consumption substantially and then further eliminate energy and water use through smart systems design and application of technology. This reduces costs, improves performance, and reduces the potential of variability in performance later.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">So with all of the good about Estidama, what’s the downside? Well, so far I haven’t found any strong downside, but there are some concerns among professionals that will need to be addressed for Estidama to retain its effectiveness moving forward. Perhaps the single biggest obstacle to Estidama’s success is the amount of capacity necessary to administer the system. With all new projects as of the first of this year being required to meet Estidama’s guidelines, the UPC will have its hands full certifying and verifying claims and projects. Some pointed out that it took USGBC several years to build the capacity necessary to effectively implement and update LEED as necessary, so to think UPC can do so immediately may not be realistic. Another topic to watch is how Estidama will be updated as time goes on to keep up with lessons learned from administration of the program and new technology. There is a tendency, I’m told, in the UAE to just sweep ineffective regulations under the rug and forget about them rather than admit obsolescence or mistakes and improve the policies. Given the landmark nature of Estidama for the region it would be sad if this happens, so it will be interesting to watch how the system adapts. As one developer said, “A 3 Pearl building in 5 years should not be the same as a 3 Pearl building now, and the system needs to reflect that.” This isn’t so much a concern as a topic to watch. The last thing to watch regarding Estidama is how it will handle existing buildings or if it will. Currently the guidelines apply only to new construction and not to renovation. No action is required by the government to improve the efficiency and performance of existing buildings. However it could be possible to implement a voluntary Estidama standard for existing buildings or to require upgrades at a change in ownership. I’m not sure to what degree this has been discussed, but many architects and environmentalists in the region mentioned that existing buildings make up a significant portion of the building stock and therefore need to be addressed. That Estidama does not know even have voluntary guidelines for such upgrades is a topic to watch and something that hopefully will be addressed.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Estidama is certainly the environmental highlight of the Abu Dhabi 2030 plan, but it is important to remember that there are other environmental initiatives as well, mostly aimed at protecting wildlife habitats near areas of development. Sea turtles, dugongs, Arabian oryx, and other endangered wildlife could be affected by the developments and the Environment Agency is implementing comprehensive plans to ensure that they are not adversely affected.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Yet for all of these environmental initiatives, the Abu Dhabi 2030 plan is much more oriented on making the city a world-class cultural destination. Four new museums on Saadiyat Island designed by international architects (Frank Gehry among them) will be constructed to bring high-brow culture to the emirate. These include a Louvre museum, a Guggenheim, and the Sheikh Zayed Center. Even the Norman Foster designed World Expo Pavilion will be brought home to Saadiyat Island over the next few months.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizaxlXvId6hXwXm-pd7uhjh7us0Me2baAWgjSUCWJGcGHOIU4EVw0_8DkkyZzqHbnaG3qd-Bd93s7ra1Ybun8CFa6ZuXc-YKYlASqS92riSDolw1HWUBrBFxLBBCHzTko7DLrCCD7sTMc/s1600/663+Saadiyat+Concert+Hall+Model.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizaxlXvId6hXwXm-pd7uhjh7us0Me2baAWgjSUCWJGcGHOIU4EVw0_8DkkyZzqHbnaG3qd-Bd93s7ra1Ybun8CFa6ZuXc-YKYlASqS92riSDolw1HWUBrBFxLBBCHzTko7DLrCCD7sTMc/s320/663+Saadiyat+Concert+Hall+Model.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565626843601682354" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdUe6JK31xTBhX57oe-T2yEeDE4Mb5ywgIqI4CGviNd0S6bfGZkBEC1l1yXpnX7n9n0iEtb5-8ioSESLh3jC-b-Om_EO0Evq8dpDevqi4l3ml9Wvpkujt5_HpgnL_bJZRYQDlR6yEMgto/s1600/662+Louvre+Abu+Dhabi+Model.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdUe6JK31xTBhX57oe-T2yEeDE4Mb5ywgIqI4CGviNd0S6bfGZkBEC1l1yXpnX7n9n0iEtb5-8ioSESLh3jC-b-Om_EO0Evq8dpDevqi4l3ml9Wvpkujt5_HpgnL_bJZRYQDlR6yEMgto/s320/662+Louvre+Abu+Dhabi+Model.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565626839995088178" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYV22F4jCdDQbTwFtBpE1tM0C3MScLV21cCDOkCasfesl79r1nb7vckq92MX6OM8xLeioQlM7SsKIcp7rbGNlHbvkYWditjCo3IBS7OwrlyVIEpGf4yPupuDk66WEk6b4hG4Nv3Fup68E/s1600/661+Guggenheim+Museum+Model.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYV22F4jCdDQbTwFtBpE1tM0C3MScLV21cCDOkCasfesl79r1nb7vckq92MX6OM8xLeioQlM7SsKIcp7rbGNlHbvkYWditjCo3IBS7OwrlyVIEpGf4yPupuDk66WEk6b4hG4Nv3Fup68E/s320/661+Guggenheim+Museum+Model.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565626837231551650" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjdCKNJBusV-wC2tF4L_Qtv6jhwcIjMgk_Qpd2Bxhwe1GwrQe5rxqzwctMPvKqBLteFwwFdli8fQdcXGyH2Q0-gzVS7-59XsrnvRAjkcv2fTgaapq3PqCqHHTjJYfg_xkIRp_sZRO_kY4/s1600/647+Sheikh+Zayed+Museum+Model.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjdCKNJBusV-wC2tF4L_Qtv6jhwcIjMgk_Qpd2Bxhwe1GwrQe5rxqzwctMPvKqBLteFwwFdli8fQdcXGyH2Q0-gzVS7-59XsrnvRAjkcv2fTgaapq3PqCqHHTjJYfg_xkIRp_sZRO_kY4/s320/647+Sheikh+Zayed+Museum+Model.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565626835738745394" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Certainly when these impressive landmarks are finished Abu Dhabi will be an interesting place to visit and explore. However, to leave you all with something to consider (and feel free to post thoughts below), was it right of Abu Dhabi to create this world-class cultural center with international architects? Certainly a part of sustainability is supporting the long-term success and development of your own local people, part of which are capable architects. Would it have been a stronger statement about Abu Dhabi’s world-class status to showcase the abilities of their native talent rather than contracting international designers? And what message does that send to the local firms?</p>Rob Besthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09463964785697202357noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9070652898233554429.post-80094912562150831852011-01-20T01:45:00.000-08:002011-01-20T03:31:52.759-08:00A Culture of the Biggest and the Best<div style="text-align: left;">After <a href="http://robswatsonadventure.blogspot.com/2011/01/view-from-top.html">my last post</a> about the view from atop the world’s tallest building, I feel it is only appropriate to spend some time discussing and highlighting this structure and others in Dubai that are born out of a desire to be the biggest and the best in everything. Many of you will have heard of and likely seen images of these buildings and spaces, but since they are quite impressive and a big part of visiting Dubai, I figured I would give my take on each.</div> <p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight:normal"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal">Burj Khalifa</i></b><br />Any discussion of the biggest structures in Dubai has to begin here, the most prominent building on the Dubai skyline. Standing 828 m tall and comprising 160 floors, the Burj is the tallest building in the world as well as the tallest man-made structure and tallest free-standing structure. While the view from the bottom is impressive and dizzying, to really put the Burj in perspective, drive out into the desert, away from Dubai (it really doesn’t take that long to get outside the city driving inland) and then turn around a look back. Appearing more than twice the height of any of its neighbors, the Burj stands alone as a spire reaching to the heavens and recalling images of the mythical Tower of Babel.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDlmCsVU5n2XZZJQfnLdalaFXXnbyO9l_KX5ZbEfShUhKUspXFOKAhPFWBusbA-DEXM4XiMcwjsDX5EMiD6yhyyRALgUimxSnX1hukhQ-YUrsgnROXlrPijPSoX9N8u55tG71jDMm0IQI/s320/P1030029.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5564220319559206242" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Move closer, perhaps to the exit of the Dubai Mall Metro Station, and while the height remains impressive, without the metric of the surrounding buildings and with the stepped design of the floor plans, your mind can be fooled into thinking it is not as tall as it originally seemed. Even so, your camera may not be able from here to capture the full height of the structure. Move closer still, and you undoubtedly will need several frames to capture the full height. Stand at the base, and you must let your head slowly roll backward until you are looking directly up to the heavens to take in the full height of the massive building. Even from the bridge leading from the Dubai Mall to Souk al Bahar one must scan upward to see the top of this steel and glass behemoth.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKd9sgUZbLPK1nZgAA6KmETJloKlv89id0buPbwclPR5jxhoiNVwOhIZ31Q4nOyF73-QKzirBx8KlzxDXTHYs5EP7THprW_FQ8NbXcfi1BNHKfc9EU5OZj6OtqtOupQKCegy57DU329lw/s1600/P1020884.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKd9sgUZbLPK1nZgAA6KmETJloKlv89id0buPbwclPR5jxhoiNVwOhIZ31Q4nOyF73-QKzirBx8KlzxDXTHYs5EP7THprW_FQ8NbXcfi1BNHKfc9EU5OZj6OtqtOupQKCegy57DU329lw/s320/P1020884.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5564220316075405266" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgzfhRAXWN7gttcd9Emm6WdFTI2bxiVWVL7uaI7M06xNfmKd0RPl_TGXLUeLpxh8Uf6qyTPNxfEucU4Mn-fDdKxL6nU-F5ReRKAv1cQ3BmY8d1DN2528-AvLvbjHtyu9_hGz3F123XOgY/s1600/P1020888.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgzfhRAXWN7gttcd9Emm6WdFTI2bxiVWVL7uaI7M06xNfmKd0RPl_TGXLUeLpxh8Uf6qyTPNxfEucU4Mn-fDdKxL6nU-F5ReRKAv1cQ3BmY8d1DN2528-AvLvbjHtyu9_hGz3F123XOgY/s320/P1020888.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5564220309148557570" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Many may find this height dizzying or the overall appearance and height unfathomable. I’ve been told the structure looks unstable or that it must extend so deep in the ground just to stand up straight. Actually, if you head inside to “At the Top,” and then pause on the way out to watch the video monitors talking about the tower, you find that it is really both an architectural symbol of Dubai’s rise and a marvel of modern engineering. Extensive wind tunnel testing helped ensure that the stepped and asymmetric design of the tower would not allow vortices from the wind to build up in such a manner to cause resonance. Instead, the vortices are created and shed at different frequencies along the tower thereby stabilizing it more than many buildings where these vortices cause oscillation in heavy winds. Furthermore, the stepped design acts as a set of buttresses such that the weight of the central, tallest portion of the tower is dispersed over a much larger base allowing the pressure on each pile in the ground to be the same as that of a 30-40 storey building. Pretty smart design if you ask me.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Yet despite these interesting, innovative building features, what impresses me most about the tower is it’s façade which to me allows the tower to take on different personalities throughout the day and even as the weather changes. Seen in bright sun, the coating of the Burj’s glass reflects a bright silver as if a shining beacon of Dubai’s world prominence.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>The tower here is regal, proud, and a powerful symbol. As the day fades, the silver adopts a bluish tinge that softens its appearance until at sunset, it glows a bright orange in the last rays of the day.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSF_RcdmA-4rP_imqpD5rt9KNU2vO6svWSviYeXt-KMvK57pmiZrG1E3jxu_V4nbB9Ee0icL23qnXZW_u6-m8RjqxGsBLX5KpBU-8R8f_XBcp2mRYMs5fzWOHvIZ69r_tNEi8dKfM4Zbw/s320/P1020718.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5564220309206245906" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">At night, with no light to reflect, the exterior becomes a muted gray, blending with the night and accented by lights. Though retaining its symbolic nature, the tower now does not dominate in the same manner as in the day instead almost giving visual preference to the lively seen around the fountain and restaurants glimmering below.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSsJLRYrU6EOIH_7yn8L8GLW8WBp4p8fRLpZngj5UCsf72QOniJmudzXQGCbWkiTvXgZXo6ay-20wRgt_gYcjCGlRxGU9yWRDwBAJ1r1OygsdHvWiTHNSILwFuzgcaVpBrLgc-vRx4vMw/s320/P1010343.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5564220302224286546" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Though while in Dubai this time the weather was quite clear, in summer it can be very humid and foggy at night. Images for sale in any art gallery will offer glimpses of the Burj’s spire peaking above the fog in the morning sunlight, the only indicator that the city lies below the white blanket. On humid, hazy nights, sitting at the foot of the Burj recalls images of an evil sci-fi lair (at least in my opinion) as this deadly spire attains a dark, foreboding nature. Comparing the regal, upstanding daytime sight of the building with this image, I am reminded of the alternate personalities of many superhero villains who by day are upstanding corporate leaders and by night evil geniuses plotting against society.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq2JqjvyO52TcuAvMc-Z8ql0-XW8SBCEwKZ4g3-pVW-oXWwc4bouaVIi0w0ZlcR_zPPIFdeSPG_d07d5WipMnbUQYFPkCUg6cBYIBuWNPFlkNwe0yBEdwviEIE56cPeH6hK1f7arHgIfk/s320/7+Burj+Khalifa.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5564221240686634722" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 138px; height: 320px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">The final image of the Burj that will forever be embedded in my mind is festive and celebratory. On New Year’s Eve, the tower was illuminated from base to tip by spectacular fireworks accenting the height of the structure while ringing in 2011 with a bang. As the center of Dubai’s New Year’s celebrations, it certainly impresses.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxCTiZ9ZMP1hZvmVzH8RxGXHHnxVsnkU8m04zB0cRKzEx1fXDe3Xc_6UDLwZ7jwSBp4Z4NjLG3esN5Nag2gWLdUg-SXV018Px-s8zxlRMC1lTebcRzqX28EArWIrtHBksZEOHFMwIt8fE/s320/P1020805.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5564221220202895906" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">I suppose there isn’t much more I can or would like to add about this tower.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>It truly is an impressive sight, an engineering marvel, and an attractor for tourists the world over. Simply for its dizzying height, attractive façade, and changing appearance, it is worth seeing in your life if you can. With the Middle East (including Dubai) racing to outdo the Burj in height, it may not be a record-holder for more than a few years, but as a beautiful building and the centerpiece of New Dubai, it will always retain a regal, beautiful quality worthy of time and attention. We will see if the new breed of supertalls inspired by the Burj will live up to the architectural splendor and engineering achievements of this tower and if so, it will certainly be enriching to the Middle East and the world.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight:normal"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal">The Dubai Mall</i></b><br />Moving down from the spire of Burj Khalifa, another record holder awaits attention. Sprawling at the foot of the world’s tallest building is the world’s largest mall (measured by total floor area).<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>With over 1200 shops and restaurants to please every interest and budget, the Dubai Mall is an interesting and disorienting center of consumerism and socializing. Seen from above, the full extent of the mall becomes apparent in a way that is hard for the mind to grasp when wandering its broad, curving interior paths.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWYvZ78OyoAbfUq7LUZZ9eQp3puNYtAfQogx3kxB_DTP7xwJul3UDIg-t7wBmKt17Hu_LtSeX6d-MJX6EtagBTlK2KiA4B-sxvhXixcTy0M9AaMwOQ9_fx-jJm-lTTpXhaAPoJdi0TjEE/s320/P1030091.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5564221219625353570" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Perhaps designed to hide the true length of the path you are walking and instead draw your attention to the shops ahead, the constantly gently curving walks are lined with attractive store fronts and dotted with chairs, tables, and cafes to provide respite and sustenance to weary shoppers lost in their quest for bargains and branded goods. Featuring a three storey aquarium and underwater zoo, a large ice rink, a three storey waterfall, multiple impressive atria for temporary exhibits and stores, and an outdoor patio overlooking a fountain larger than the Bellagio in Vegas, the mall tries in every aspect to outdo its smaller cousins.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPk4kyARNdjpS2agfblgNOuM_BQ20paBGsWFFuJch3vHVjhWagATVpjluS5tFDlDuu7i4bqDZ4gxyM0_-wAZfUDLxv7r-XXbuE7KBOZIAQRpQ42xfxp_nqArPpKDD6pF7pjinUzP7Xw5g/s1600/237+Dubai+Mall+Outdoor+Promenade.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPk4kyARNdjpS2agfblgNOuM_BQ20paBGsWFFuJch3vHVjhWagATVpjluS5tFDlDuu7i4bqDZ4gxyM0_-wAZfUDLxv7r-XXbuE7KBOZIAQRpQ42xfxp_nqArPpKDD6pF7pjinUzP7Xw5g/s320/237+Dubai+Mall+Outdoor+Promenade.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5564221212173603314" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGE_h7hR6r42QbYUFocBjeP-b9Av13uXG4y084bZHoWn_5R1aR5pA6gpaVGGv8lR-ggjN1leId50XvohnUnKo4Rrk2P8B3hdJZJYlSEpGMUhQQ_o_22hnGxY6Ed_Q-mEOHhOPHj3guarc/s1600/209+Dubai+Aquarium.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGE_h7hR6r42QbYUFocBjeP-b9Av13uXG4y084bZHoWn_5R1aR5pA6gpaVGGv8lR-ggjN1leId50XvohnUnKo4Rrk2P8B3hdJZJYlSEpGMUhQQ_o_22hnGxY6Ed_Q-mEOHhOPHj3guarc/s320/209+Dubai+Aquarium.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5564221208155493970" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrFdoqU4YCsrToGLEtBAnW7rwTa3DsOFNEdXwA9oeTsZrnd-gHF2jorWFHWxLp97QXHgajE3XxDOJ2MtiLG5N3QMwpOu7qRxKbJcFaeHVDzrOOAj0r15FCaCuWex8xHPbfpldCgePyed0/s1600/220+The+Waterfall+Dubai+Mall.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrFdoqU4YCsrToGLEtBAnW7rwTa3DsOFNEdXwA9oeTsZrnd-gHF2jorWFHWxLp97QXHgajE3XxDOJ2MtiLG5N3QMwpOu7qRxKbJcFaeHVDzrOOAj0r15FCaCuWex8xHPbfpldCgePyed0/s320/220+The+Waterfall+Dubai+Mall.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5564221901399326226" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFbl-A-2NPHFdullYP-kgQSU3M_oeAOE-q5OKYrr_Ut-0fBB-q689kLhxvErcbPXBYTIvYJg_aTPGxHPNWPtDbcwmK61JISndI625fmzHLUh7DRKP_alXmEYDu14w-X77slFSNWbFBbTs/s1600/232+Inside+Gold+Souq+in+Dubai+Mall.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFbl-A-2NPHFdullYP-kgQSU3M_oeAOE-q5OKYrr_Ut-0fBB-q689kLhxvErcbPXBYTIvYJg_aTPGxHPNWPtDbcwmK61JISndI625fmzHLUh7DRKP_alXmEYDu14w-X77slFSNWbFBbTs/s320/232+Inside+Gold+Souq+in+Dubai+Mall.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5564221895336240770" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf6y54LPm8_RpKvLdblGBnqiuvwFOg1sAQgZRTW_mCNwWhaD5pOBFLYp_6QlwOlOJ1A9Hx_zVfkDkSjehVV9hl4yOQcX4Z3YDn2PF9pZBb2sqnjBZmrA1toMPPBB6aZeqPVZIBx3QUiRM/s1600/234+Electronic+Atrium+in+Dubai+Mall.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf6y54LPm8_RpKvLdblGBnqiuvwFOg1sAQgZRTW_mCNwWhaD5pOBFLYp_6QlwOlOJ1A9Hx_zVfkDkSjehVV9hl4yOQcX4Z3YDn2PF9pZBb2sqnjBZmrA1toMPPBB6aZeqPVZIBx3QUiRM/s320/234+Electronic+Atrium+in+Dubai+Mall.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5564221890414545026" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGbWfNaaT55W4TMTL5SuerDL45y58tqdzdbt0vS7JUmdPw8lqKFtQwDs4cTtkoZR1jQi1gFf5WySxn1YtLFo5sS3p5GqAMoyeHb5bt1USZeXwlWGLov1nWU9l78HUmLPB1HTW8QM7JJaM/s1600/254+Fashion+Dome+Dubai+Mall.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGbWfNaaT55W4TMTL5SuerDL45y58tqdzdbt0vS7JUmdPw8lqKFtQwDs4cTtkoZR1jQi1gFf5WySxn1YtLFo5sS3p5GqAMoyeHb5bt1USZeXwlWGLov1nWU9l78HUmLPB1HTW8QM7JJaM/s320/254+Fashion+Dome+Dubai+Mall.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5564221888227961266" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Wh3YI9V3OBQNHZWlU8U9maHZRy060S8ihcN_17OyKpWJxxICzKEEc3pkFeYQecVwXgb_jeRXkgtnV4GqzDXkjXmQXVgV5gR_4OtcCSx0k-cOkZpoRGWgztMhmjmXEOrPoCk_CIvEBMc/s1600/207+Star+Atrium+in+Dubai+Mall.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Wh3YI9V3OBQNHZWlU8U9maHZRy060S8ihcN_17OyKpWJxxICzKEEc3pkFeYQecVwXgb_jeRXkgtnV4GqzDXkjXmQXVgV5gR_4OtcCSx0k-cOkZpoRGWgztMhmjmXEOrPoCk_CIvEBMc/s320/207+Star+Atrium+in+Dubai+Mall.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5564221883083832018" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 98px; height: 320px; " /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgODWa1fpP02ZPo-lt1FeT7PF9L3VqvGlXoCBhQX7P5mqFr45fhmnFnJwJpY5FFGVlr1AmzXbltpUl1puw26bWeupsV2wgYVQTM3JURWLL5gO7ObuwEbEw_teIB61DxFdgoFIwvwVmIaPw/s1600/212+Grand+Atrium+in+Dubai+Mall.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgODWa1fpP02ZPo-lt1FeT7PF9L3VqvGlXoCBhQX7P5mqFr45fhmnFnJwJpY5FFGVlr1AmzXbltpUl1puw26bWeupsV2wgYVQTM3JURWLL5gO7ObuwEbEw_teIB61DxFdgoFIwvwVmIaPw/s320/212+Grand+Atrium+in+Dubai+Mall.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5564224263002775570" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 140px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBjNCqtz48gpRP1vnOQGS4DZ76S42AMvRqBk5A0kZz8gY1S6BmdfyyZaBfXea0B-dcb4gFJi7MQURXtkJ6DRXHpNAl1Mn0UofAnAMbCwtUgShUWYqPLpG45vP9OZVNbn44AgNBwkPfBbQ/s1600/257+Ice+Rink+in+Dubai+Mall.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBjNCqtz48gpRP1vnOQGS4DZ76S42AMvRqBk5A0kZz8gY1S6BmdfyyZaBfXea0B-dcb4gFJi7MQURXtkJ6DRXHpNAl1Mn0UofAnAMbCwtUgShUWYqPLpG45vP9OZVNbn44AgNBwkPfBbQ/s320/257+Ice+Rink+in+Dubai+Mall.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5564224259270904850" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal">Simply walking around this behemoth can be disorienting, especially without a map in hand. The first time I entered over the summer on an overnight stay with the <a href="http://hmckenya.blogspot.com/">HMC Kenya</a> team, I recall that we had trouble finding an exit! Once you get your bearings it’s not so bad, but I doubt you’ll ever be able to master what stores exist there and which don’t. Some even have multiple outlets—Grand Stores Digital has two locations and Starbucks has at least 3 while Costa Coffee and Kozi Café feature 2 each. What amazes me most is that you can spend an entire day in the mall and not even get to half of it if you don’t try. I had to make a point to traverse the entirety of it one night because otherwise I never would have seen the waterfall or the ice rink. I suppose if you love to shop though, this is the place for you as you can find anything here. It’s even great for families—drop off the kids at Kidzania or Sega Republic (two indoor small theme parks) and then spend the rest of the day free from nagging while you browse at your leisure.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight:normal"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal">Mall of the Emirates</i></b><br />If you have never visited Dubai, you may not be aware of how much shopping is a part of the culture and exactly what the importance malls and megastores have in Dubai’s lifestyle. From the laborers who spend days off browsing at Carrefour and the shops in Bur Dubai to the Emiratis and wealthy expats who stroll the malls on Thursday and Friday nights, shopping is engrained in Dubai’s lifestyle. What’s more is that with each new mall that pops up, new wonders are exhibited within in an attempt to outdo the previous competitor. The first themed mall in Dubai, Mercato Mall, started this trend with its indoor Venetian avenue. Yet it wasn’t long until the Mall of the Emirates, the largest mall in the Gulf region at the time of opening, made the Mercato look tame.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi55HgraH5bjlWtg5oW3QMBfDKhG-yL_8BXXWWJUzV7Qej9wIlg9-_JqtNGzAq-S0d2FM6RELknUWvBEKEFgr1ikdBt3MIgTyzwvL4pGIQgIn4lUn7JMiHbg5AohZ2SG_NPGi-Xi09aOoQ/s1600/P1020929.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi55HgraH5bjlWtg5oW3QMBfDKhG-yL_8BXXWWJUzV7Qej9wIlg9-_JqtNGzAq-S0d2FM6RELknUWvBEKEFgr1ikdBt3MIgTyzwvL4pGIQgIn4lUn7JMiHbg5AohZ2SG_NPGi-Xi09aOoQ/s320/P1020929.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5564224252088326050" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjipiD3XApm9deY9YQs8LrGhbPAD3OeF9vazSSzIeC8QPQN5HNsn_adSUclc7sNm47b9hECgStD0OIw0Gc2vJPEZYWH2mqdHt_pMcgYPY3Vzsxu2vXg9C9MXd54_edpKZvL6A9FUPOHft4/s1600/68+Inside+Mall+of+the+Emirates.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjipiD3XApm9deY9YQs8LrGhbPAD3OeF9vazSSzIeC8QPQN5HNsn_adSUclc7sNm47b9hECgStD0OIw0Gc2vJPEZYWH2mqdHt_pMcgYPY3Vzsxu2vXg9C9MXd54_edpKZvL6A9FUPOHft4/s320/68+Inside+Mall+of+the+Emirates.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5564224243500628258" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Strolling the walks of the Mall of the Emirates evokes outdoor shopping plazas of Europe and Arabia through a mix of wrought iron guard rails branching from fake stone pillars illuminated by turn of the century style iron lamps and lavish sandstone and wood storefronts that upgrade the souks of yore. The central feature of the mall (geographically that is) is a large iron and glass arched ceiling evocative of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Great_Exhibition">England's Great Exhibition</a> spanning a large atrium of marble, stone, and finely painted detail.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">While areas branching from this space do not retain the lavish details, the high-quality, clean spaces are still comfortable and allow shopping in style. Moving past the movie theater, Borders, and the Virgin electronics megastore, you are met with a wall of glass enclosing the mall’s most prominent feature, and a first for the UAE—a ski slope. Yes, inside the mall sits the famous Ski Dubai, an artificial ecosystem of snow and ice kept at a chilly -4 C even when the temperature outside is 40-50 C. Here you can sip a warm drink and watch skiers whizz down the slopes or children playing in the snow at the base. Though Mall of the Emirates may have lost its title as the UAE’s biggest mall thanks to the Dubai Mall, it will for the foreseeable future retain the distinction of being Dubai’s haven for snowboarders and ski bunnies.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxdtU-fpRgUHuN-CTTBGLodtz5PEyQmcsy8tPye55PzX7EL8bohJQGmfQUI_vYRImB8PZL1DaZYyQNARiYY32ZjcyJfZ2OSuwSOGngdLsqkYo2jA6uzE8pwgUKOEkiqe12TSN3b7-SWlc/s320/74+Ski+Dubai.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5564224247292457778" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Though lacking the size of the Dubai Mall, Mall of the Emirates makes up for it in grandeur and decoration. Though not all of the passages are as lavish as the Arabian or French courts, the marble and smart choices of lighting, paneling, and even storefronts make it a more adult, relaxed, and elegant shopping experience.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight:normal"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal">Ibn Battuta Mall</i></b><br />Eventually I’ll leave off with the malls, but as I said before, malls are a big part of Dubai (both in space and life). And the newest addition to Dubai’s themed malls is no exception. As the name suggests, this mall is themed around the life of one man, the illustrious Ibn Battuta, who throughout his life became the preeminent Muslim scholar of his day and managed to travel through Tunisia (his home), Egypt, the Arabian Peninsula, India, China, and other locales in his quest for knowledge. This mall allows you to relive the journeys of Battuta through themed “courts” for each of the countries in which the traveler spent significant time. At one end of the mall you experience his home—Tunisia Court—where a ceiling mural reminiscent of Vegas’ The Venetian hotel simulates an African afternoon. Meanwhile, stall-like shops create diagonal aisles in a large open space with palm trees and fake oil torches.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCkk0Q5AoWBT4U2G20L6vicPHCMPadeexf4fWtXBqxkW0qABCUZTOaOkrIZV2M_SW5ep5cgv28SbSbjeJ4RsNWb-FoTxPYADU8c2RXXK51FWWnjetUVKQ_leQ0MuwCEiJUF_poXzkO4rM/s320/P1010560.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5564226270283772642" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">From this country, walk through a curved connector and you find yourself in Egypt where displays on Battuta’s life await along with murals of Egyptian style, more fake torches and palm trees, and sand stone facades. From here you move through well-themed Arabian, Andalusian, Indian, and Chinese sections where storefronts in each are patterned on traditional shopping areas, an elephant awaits in India, a junk boat in China, and gloriously styled and painted vaulted domes in traditional styles in each nation’s court.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnWoKV8Vjq5ctLTXgw_eFiKTlafQCw1TyQv7_-zZr19nQRj-UlvOS5GbayFltIYDqrRyvkKzqs7-VIVQW35tl-nBNd1WrZ-IEhxXd9gRqj0NEVUM6ox-caqFlLlVeDGVGEDV0QUda7PIA/s1600/P1010542.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnWoKV8Vjq5ctLTXgw_eFiKTlafQCw1TyQv7_-zZr19nQRj-UlvOS5GbayFltIYDqrRyvkKzqs7-VIVQW35tl-nBNd1WrZ-IEhxXd9gRqj0NEVUM6ox-caqFlLlVeDGVGEDV0QUda7PIA/s320/P1010542.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5564226265308379202" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD1DHb5W7zMLlFAkXtyNUaheMCMdYyexEr1ZbWUbgmh12BUHS75Irv8k122lxExVfmELNDi2WIQIDnKYtpdV2ezV_R44kt2ZzBKLn7_0MMvXkz3cxOO7YfQ00ApUgiPVNWUc72AVNUvBk/s1600/P1010545.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD1DHb5W7zMLlFAkXtyNUaheMCMdYyexEr1ZbWUbgmh12BUHS75Irv8k122lxExVfmELNDi2WIQIDnKYtpdV2ezV_R44kt2ZzBKLn7_0MMvXkz3cxOO7YfQ00ApUgiPVNWUc72AVNUvBk/s320/P1010545.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5564226249284719794" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUOHlSY8CsqqGpFeucein3jCZm5Oacsu67NKynJMcGnl6y6WgKVANdxS-b0to1aIK9PBe8AyzvxiIpYodY9hpNJBPKJIEbJ0Hp6mGTnQB1nKm2st1huBFIcuCiKpimI98Y2By_vi7xIpE/s1600/P1010547.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUOHlSY8CsqqGpFeucein3jCZm5Oacsu67NKynJMcGnl6y6WgKVANdxS-b0to1aIK9PBe8AyzvxiIpYodY9hpNJBPKJIEbJ0Hp6mGTnQB1nKm2st1huBFIcuCiKpimI98Y2By_vi7xIpE/s320/P1010547.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5564226244049841714" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigN4d8ElriuLr2fFnX5VqX9paBshjENT9msgP-29e2GQjhXGE86I-0NY9OIOxcybYA0SgOvKma1cru_z_2-9kLxNwPrCNAkWqU_EPHkAdReTyKvQKnmFvhTl-h7Jw6p9ybF_vG1zE-WUA/s1600/P1010551.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigN4d8ElriuLr2fFnX5VqX9paBshjENT9msgP-29e2GQjhXGE86I-0NY9OIOxcybYA0SgOvKma1cru_z_2-9kLxNwPrCNAkWqU_EPHkAdReTyKvQKnmFvhTl-h7Jw6p9ybF_vG1zE-WUA/s320/P1010551.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5564226239932873762" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiilYncdQvgYtn0S-nmNFBuEnNPERWHZAbtgPMMQHF8CbKFAKdwpAToTkHBDv1bdZ6qKRWX7T8TW1-EltTM_0TDPiVCdc3faIhGP9qN9Qt6jwfa5SN11I8EOgaAP4SO-TNa7r9fFkJ4MVU/s320/P1010555.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5564227579408888082" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal">The result of all of this is an atmosphere that seems inspired by Disney’s EPCOT or hotels like the Venetian. The styles provide a pleasant shopping atmosphere which, while fake, can with a little imagination feel like you are actually back in the countries themselves. Having arrived from China, when I saw the China court, I smiled at the details of the woodwork, joints, and pillars as copying the classical styles of the Temple of Heaven and Forbidden City. Only the veneer and bright colors belie the recent construction of these models—other than that, the details were remarkably well-done.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Despite its interesting interior and pleasant atmosphere, Ibn Battuta is not as popular as its competitors up Sheikh Zayed Road. This is largely, in my opinion, because it is very poorly located at the end of the existing Metro line and in an area where there is little surrounding housing to provide a customer base. Perhaps conceived in a time when the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jebel_Ali">Jebel Ali</a>, <a href="http://www.nakheelharbour.com/">Nakheel Harbor</a>, and <a href="http://www.waterfront.ae/">Dubai Waterfront</a> projects were still to be completed, without these developments, the mall is unfortunately positioned too far for many to bother visiting more than for the occasional 3-D IMAX movie. If you’re in Dubai though, and have some spare time, I’d suggest checking it out if only for the novelty of the spaces inside and a half hour to learn about the greatest Muslim scholar.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight:normal"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal">Burj Al Arab</i></b><br />For many people, the sound of “Dubai” instantly calls to mind the iconic image of this tower perched beautifully on the ocean out from the Jumeira Beach. With its graceful sail-like shape and clean blue windows that shimmer in the sun alternating with bright white paneling, the Burj al Arab is a Dubai landmark. For many, catching a sight of this hotel from the Metro or the street is an exciting moment. Many times I saw foreigners catch a glimpse for the first time and rush to the train window, camera in hand, to document the moment for posterity.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEithAKx_vzbN34T32sZnwYrBVOVmV8V0llqeWawlHVqMWLppjqx6QkP8H7YKDavs9qqTyVasYWhbUW9mfIr4txbla-cbDTSsMJ-YW1rCLX4Ciq4p0QbHM0ptcSogwFtJZwitFUgimkz3xg/s320/P1020212.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5564227561697114354" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">And if you want to talk best, this perhaps is it. Branded as the world’s first 7 star hotel (even though official ratings can only go up to 5), this hotel supposedly is just about as posh and luxurious as you can get. I wish I could report firsthand on the interior beauty, but unfortunately that would require paying at least $100 for afternoon tea—the cheapest fare at its several restaurants. Unless you book for a meal or stay overnight, entry is barred. However if you can not only afford the exorbitant prices (with a New Year’s Eve package of nearly 8000 AED or over $2,000 for dinner and the fireworks, I can only imagine what the room prices are) but are lucky enough to be a VVIP (very very important person—as Lonely Planet states, “VIP just isn’t good enough [for the Burj al Arab]) then expect fireworks on your entrance. If anyone reading has been inside, I’d love to hear if it lives up to the 7 star label and if it truly is the best hotel in the city.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Even from the outside, the building is stunning at both day and night. The white paneling against the blue ocean and sky is a beautiful reminder of sailboats, beaches, and the fun of the coastal life. The reflective glazing on the windows causes them to appear in different shades as you scan from the bottom to the top of the structure. The entire appearance is mesmerizing, and somehow soothing while also leaving you wondering how the building doesn’t blow away down the coast in the wind (hint: I hear it’s counterbalanced with a giant pendulum inside). For those who can take a look at the Burj from the sea, something to notice that will forever change your perception of the hotel (if you’re like me) is that the seaward side houses the biggest cross in the middle east. The main “mast” of the building’s “sail” combined with the horizontal crosspiece appears as a large Christian symbol in this Muslim nation, but luckily for Dubai it is not the side that most people see.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">At night, the building lights up in a multicolored show that transforms the bright white of the landward façade into an alternating rainbow of colors accented by bulbs running up the curving supports on the sides. Though I prefer the classy white, when viewed from the nearby Madinat Jumeirah souk and hotel, I must admit that the nighttime version is quite impressive and beautiful in its own right.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjohFFYCTqNlrqYOV4kr4wh7RPVZIJyyJLJD9EzGah5TSUaQ6593l9nTBpC_2O3LP4Zt73wajLkhohKs1Bsn1SOu67VIx7FfLle0syMqaUc6B5vpNyCrormkCMLOuEMEPYxysML6vP8ZDg/s320/P1020976.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5564227552704323650" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">This is, along with Burj Khalifa, a sight not to miss in Dubai and one that you will surely want to stare at and photograph over and over. If you’re willing to pay to go inside as well, hopefully the décor is worth the money!</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight:normal"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal">The Palm Jumeirah</i></b><br />One of the most well-known features of Dubai is the city’s penchant, at the suggestion of His Highness Sheikh Mohamed bin Rashid al Maktoum, for creating luxury living on land built off of the coast. Seen by some as the ultimate sign of ostentation for a city checkered with luxury hotels on every corner, this practice is best represented in the Palm Jumeira. Out of what once was ocean, this manmade island now dominates views from the Dubai Marina and Jumeirah Beach Residence as it fans out from its 3 km stem. Apartments and villas stretch down the fronds while the stem is capped by the mystical Atlantis on the Palm, a hotel worthy of the Vegas strip that combines mock ruins of the fabled city with a large aquarium, water park, and luxury accommodation to transport guests into their own fantasy vacation.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlheOWbQTdRlfocywTVxengNTsQr5acvKWZSwnd49KLsL3oUxyjAFa7kCRkH1O3gobG_R9zdPLzwhdF2aY6eP8hWMV7O6lktUdvPK5yhzrUhiD7NR1qMpXtKcQ2mO_OWMmHQ_0Ei7JBos/s1600/P1030048.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlheOWbQTdRlfocywTVxengNTsQr5acvKWZSwnd49KLsL3oUxyjAFa7kCRkH1O3gobG_R9zdPLzwhdF2aY6eP8hWMV7O6lktUdvPK5yhzrUhiD7NR1qMpXtKcQ2mO_OWMmHQ_0Ei7JBos/s320/P1030048.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5564227544759568066" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG2OddPkC3Cd5kfymwaQ6Cp2_532pDalOKbqGPdFIADKXVEGFAIbDH1WElYmzaTTA_983x04dX9CysOgrPmk4Pthyphenhyphen3OfpGlvSHPgixdt2lvmOT_ZtgUT3E_W_-Foo3AI-s8J2aQ5GtCN8/s1600/P1020986.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG2OddPkC3Cd5kfymwaQ6Cp2_532pDalOKbqGPdFIADKXVEGFAIbDH1WElYmzaTTA_983x04dX9CysOgrPmk4Pthyphenhyphen3OfpGlvSHPgixdt2lvmOT_ZtgUT3E_W_-Foo3AI-s8J2aQ5GtCN8/s320/P1020986.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5564227537649265122" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYHe3yFdRHFsoXqzEKFia6ILgwTj2EvJ5HOlk1ZOMravGY5RzrjCp0aUFns8br1qVGFllzoqs-c9YAvuwm5DzHxYEcWSwKhn3889ieLk0ymzVXUysI3P7XIUFmlxtXnfJIJhaf1kVHpBg/s1600/P1030031.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYHe3yFdRHFsoXqzEKFia6ILgwTj2EvJ5HOlk1ZOMravGY5RzrjCp0aUFns8br1qVGFllzoqs-c9YAvuwm5DzHxYEcWSwKhn3889ieLk0ymzVXUysI3P7XIUFmlxtXnfJIJhaf1kVHpBg/s320/P1030031.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5564228495320614194" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSl94GvvozLtt9EcjNlwQ6D2crcMIR7uyg2k_LhI0HA4sGs_oEk-JfoSU25hd9QPNcN1RqnGX4m2sY714rYuMBG5iEMxClfr1f8NBDpenU2Q_Esq6ERaFcOQ5aQxScg9FgWdO0v3gVyZA/s1600/P1020990.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSl94GvvozLtt9EcjNlwQ6D2crcMIR7uyg2k_LhI0HA4sGs_oEk-JfoSU25hd9QPNcN1RqnGX4m2sY714rYuMBG5iEMxClfr1f8NBDpenU2Q_Esq6ERaFcOQ5aQxScg9FgWdO0v3gVyZA/s320/P1020990.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5564228485452609906" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivZWDclLCz1YYYKnoDAnjYA8lpO54vEjRAzn2O8SQ9kxipgD9MqLrR0hH_QcicwHZb87YeQ5G6rOaI5JOEkjMgTebSYfwLFVMfGtrJRB1oplPcIoGYx7oKDsyBQ0aSQu6hYViRM_pCXMk/s1600/P1020988.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivZWDclLCz1YYYKnoDAnjYA8lpO54vEjRAzn2O8SQ9kxipgD9MqLrR0hH_QcicwHZb87YeQ5G6rOaI5JOEkjMgTebSYfwLFVMfGtrJRB1oplPcIoGYx7oKDsyBQ0aSQu6hYViRM_pCXMk/s320/P1020988.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5564228481938398098" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal">Unlike the Burj al Arab, visitors are welcomed here into the retail zone but to view the aquarium as a non-resident costs about $25 (100 AED) and you can go no further than the café restaurants outside the aquarium and the water park. Even to walk down next to the aquarium past a few small viewing panels requires 25 AED (unless you have a reservation, or say you do, at Kaleidoscope, the buffet restaurant at the other end). However this small area is enough to give you a sense of the hotel. The shopping arcade reminded me a bit of the Wynn in Las Vegas in its attention to detail though the theming was much more aquatic in nature (sculpted dolphin lights and seaweed and clam shell murals) than the elegant Wynn. Overall, if you catch a cab or hop the monorail to the end whether you go to the water park and aquarium or not (the water park has slides through the aquarium tanks) it’s an interesting peek at one of the city’s icons and an interesting view back at the Dubai shoreline.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The Palm is certainly a part of the city’s quest for the best luxury accommodation, but even this isn’t enough for Dubai. Not long after the Palm Jumeira was finished, Nakheel, the developer, began work on The World, a cluster of islands forming an abstract representation of a world map. In future plans, this was to be expanded to The Universe, with cosmos surrounding the flat Earth map. Though the islands for The World were completed, no development has begun on them due to the financial crisis, and plans for The Universe are indefinitely on hold. Similarly, not content with just one palm tree island, construction began on the Palm Deira, a massive replica of the Palm Jumeira near the older portion of Dubai with yet another, the Palm Jebel Ali, scheduled for development. Deira’s island is still under construction, though work seems to be progressing slowly, while the Jebel Ali version is, like The Universe, currently a victim of reality as Dubai struggles to grow into the massive development created before 2008.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Well, there you have an introduction to some of Dubai’s attempts to outdo other Middle Eastern and world cities to become a luxury hub for travelers and businesses. I could have continued this list with such developments as the Emirates Terminal in the Dubai airport or the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Al_Maktoum_International_Airport">new airport near Jebel Ali under construction</a> (which is to be one of the largest, if not the largest, in the Middle East and maybe the world), the lavish Emirates Towers, or the now on hold Dubailand mega theme park complex, but instead I’ll let you research those on your own if interested. All I can say is that this city continues to amaze with its pattern of trying to outdo both itself and everyone else which results in a phenomenally interesting place to visit and wander open-mouthed among these marvels.</p>Rob Besthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09463964785697202357noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9070652898233554429.post-56372934263203636142011-01-19T00:09:00.000-08:002011-01-19T11:24:02.095-08:00The View from the Top<div style="text-align: left;">If you spend any significant time in Dubai, you have to put aside your vertigo and acrophobia and ascend to the world’s highest outdoor observation deck on the 124<sup>th</sup> floor of Burj Khalifa.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>After a brief introduction to the tower via video displays, a superfast elevator whisks you up from the ground leaving your ears popping every 10 floors until you slow to a tranquil stop at the viewing platform aptly named “At the Top.”<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Up here the noises of the city fade away leaving only the sounds of breezes and chattering tourists.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>From this height, the city stretches away in both directions along Sheikh Zayed Road with only a small run to the sea from the foot of the tower.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Because of Dubai’s climate, you’re lucky to get a good day when it is clear enough to see crisply the Burj Al Arab and the furthest extremities of Deira.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>More likely, the city will slowly fade to dust and haze as if it continued to infinity.</div> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; 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margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4uUYtQUDroqgHaLIlUoOsMSYGoQbY9MGm8pG-xsY9hvpwZENW-wXrvemnFnuu1_XtHsxShq56d12W0fRgH1MqFHd1QMRiDanBp1AgdNdifpt3Fg1X-KFIfh1S2N_blWH_1ud8DNTsjqM/s1600/P1030099.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4uUYtQUDroqgHaLIlUoOsMSYGoQbY9MGm8pG-xsY9hvpwZENW-wXrvemnFnuu1_XtHsxShq56d12W0fRgH1MqFHd1QMRiDanBp1AgdNdifpt3Fg1X-KFIfh1S2N_blWH_1ud8DNTsjqM/s320/P1030099.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5563806951479242194" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZLhDpBnH9ove3_TFxQKCIyfPAZPCb9dQOAEbwuJG41owrhhLtNN5Zvaqw5uQx6ZA_PriA69UVnxEjw3PktAHZX2azuI5FNPA2-Yz1FdsFrDH8fn0POn9fu6L32Yle0UxjddpgaHH9ZlY/s1600/P1030097.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZLhDpBnH9ove3_TFxQKCIyfPAZPCb9dQOAEbwuJG41owrhhLtNN5Zvaqw5uQx6ZA_PriA69UVnxEjw3PktAHZX2azuI5FNPA2-Yz1FdsFrDH8fn0POn9fu6L32Yle0UxjddpgaHH9ZlY/s320/P1030097.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5563806946180658130" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEZ2CdWczzlTjB3j4AC0oHqRp6QzND9RRBcK6PhjF9BDTO2z1so1pnajv4vWePNadflPiD9rMJWEuGZxVMpSZkNgGU-rSqAaZJjLErpDS55ew1AwGzsTT98xxU74vC_y3xJ4Buwe9qz5U/s1600/P1030093.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEZ2CdWczzlTjB3j4AC0oHqRp6QzND9RRBcK6PhjF9BDTO2z1so1pnajv4vWePNadflPiD9rMJWEuGZxVMpSZkNgGU-rSqAaZJjLErpDS55ew1AwGzsTT98xxU74vC_y3xJ4Buwe9qz5U/s320/P1030093.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5563806948117705634" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHBKB25heMjx_RCJ4i_q8qskL09AzJ0lKxawAN77NbPxsfxfGP7_Al_2xHlKI-a-0xG21PVNKBCSFbp6CMcqLQPsGMUfhG54b6ZH7i17LyEMT8_m8X7jF2nhlF-bq5cBdUQ9yBIpsjS2Y/s1600/P1030092.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHBKB25heMjx_RCJ4i_q8qskL09AzJ0lKxawAN77NbPxsfxfGP7_Al_2xHlKI-a-0xG21PVNKBCSFbp6CMcqLQPsGMUfhG54b6ZH7i17LyEMT8_m8X7jF2nhlF-bq5cBdUQ9yBIpsjS2Y/s320/P1030092.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5563806942019687778" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">For me, this vision was one of my last glimpses of Dubai before jetting away to a new addition to my world tour: India. As such, this vantage point was ideal for reflecting on the urban landscape that forms this strange and fascinating city.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Perhaps most striking from here is just how linear Dubai is.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Despite recent efforts to expand into the desert with <a href="http://www.meydan.ae/">Meydan City</a>, Dubailand (which I hear is permanently on hold due to funding shortages), International City, and other such developments, the majority of the city is still along Sheikh Zayed Road, and that doesn’t look to change any time soon.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>It is strange to think that as recently as about 30 years ago, none of this existed.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Back then, the city was confined to the Bur Dubai and Deira areas with Bedouin encampments dotting the sands around the city and shifting over time.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Due to its function as a trading hub, Dubai had developed along the mouth of the Dubai creek only—the perfect spot to anchor and offload <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dhow">dhows</a> from Oman, Iran, or other nations.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>No other land was needed and none would have been advantageous to own.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>The wealthy lived near or along the creek and the markets naturally sprung up right near the ports.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>This Dubai was organic—it had developed with demand in a logical, ordered manner that facilitated moving between homes and shops easily and comfortably even in the intense summer heat.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Narrow, shaded alleys ran between buildings cooled by the wind and insulated with thick sandstone and mud walls to keep out the heat on summer days.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">From this small fishing village, a vision was created to transform Dubai from a local trading hub to an international center.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>To set this plan in motion, a road was laid to Abu Dhabi thereby linking the two emirates conveniently; this road was honored with the name of the man who united the UAE, the late <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zayed_bin_Sultan_Al_Nahyan">Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan al Nahyan</a>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>After this, an international shipping port was constructed just outside of the bounds of Bur Dubai where it would not interfere with the city but would still be easily accessible.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Over time as developers and businesses began eyeing Dubai for improvement, the natural choice was to build along Sheikh Zayed Road as it was rapidly becoming busy with traffic to and from the capital of the UAE.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Over the next several decades, buildings sprouted from the sand all along the highway with homes taking up the beachfront behind them.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>The port that once was at the edge of the city now was surrounded by villas and other high-end developments that likely would gladly encroach on its now valuable land if possible, making its location less than ideal.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>As developers carved up the desert and more money rolled in, the projects became more adventurous and less connected to each other.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Because builders were constructing for a vehicular population, they did not need to consider how people would move from space to space—the answer was always the car.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Furthermore, each would purchase a large plot to develop for themselves which was often not only independent of the land around, but also often surrounded by competitors’ developments.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>This allocation of space may have further disincentivized connectivity simply because it would mean working with your competition.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>From the top of Burj Khalifa, the results of this are apparent.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>The bounds of Downtown Dubai are defined by the construction along the roads laid by Emaar whereas nearby Business Bay seems unconnected as its buildings face the artificial lake that gives the development its name.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Further down, development parks can be identified by their separating roads, building orientations, and more or less “dead” spaces between.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Though hard to see from the Burj, Dubai Internet City is clearly insulated from neighboring Media City by the arrangement of parking lots acting as a moat between the DIC buildings (all of which look inward to face a little lake) and the DMC buildings along the access roads.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The problem with this mode of development is simply that when you develop along a line like this, you are stuck.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>You have nowhere to go but further down the line and then it just becomes hard to get between points in the city.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>If you are at one end of Dubai, it could be 30 km along Sheikh Zayed Road to get to where you would like to have dinner.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>There is no other way to go and no shortcut to be taken.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Dubai experienced this painful reality about 5 years ago when traffic got so bad that it could take 3 hours to get from work to home merely because everyone was on the only road they could use at the same time.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Smaller side roads would clog as well with travelers trying to avoid the traffic.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Unfortunately, if too many people have this seemingly bright idea, it loses its luster amid the brakelights flashing on all roads that traverse the city.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The problem was compounded by the fact that in allowing developers to carve up Dubai, Sheikh Zayed Road provided a natural boundary for developments.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>The satellite cities of Emaar and Nakheel would always lie on one side or the other with no incentive to connect plots across Sheikh Zayed.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Therefore, if you worked on one side and lived on the other, even if you could see your house from your office, it might be necessary to fight the traffic on the highway just to get far enough in one direction where you could make a U-turn across one of the few perpendicular roads and go back down the highway to your exit on the correct side.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Walking was often impossible unless you wanted to brave an illegal crossing with drivers at times speeding close to 200 km/hr.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>The Fairmont Hotel realized that they could increase their appeal to visitors to the World Trade Center if they, at their own expense, built a footbridge across the highway.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Until the advent of the Metro, this was the only easy way to cross Sheikh Zayed Road on foot.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">It doesn’t take a lot of thinking to see how damaging environmentally this form of urban design is.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>The requirement of cars just to move around short distances in the city creates large amounts of emissions, the quantity of which is compounded by hours of traffic jams.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Cars were adopted readily in Dubai as a way of beating the heat to and from work, especially in the newer developments where spread out areas left walkways open to the sun and therefore uncomfortable most of the year.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>After all, no one wants to arrive at a meeting or the office drenched in sweat from the walk to work.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Yet the side effect was that as developers relied on car transportation they compounded the problem.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>People were forced to drive farther to get to and from work, creating more traffic and emissions.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>The lack of connectivity should citizens decide to talk a stroll also meant that cars were necessary.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">What is not as apparent to many, especially those in the cars, is how this is not just damaging environmentally but also socially for a city.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>For those who choose not to drive for one reason or another (myself included), car-centered urban designs are alienating and difficult to navigate.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>There is often no good way to get from one place to the next and if sidewalks do exist, there is nothing to hold the attention of the pedestrian.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>There are few coffee shops or stores between destination areas (like Burj Khalifa, the lake of Internet City, or the Marina walk) that would provide a respite from the heat meaning that you have no choice but to suffer the 30 or 45 minute walk in one attempt even on the hottest days.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Having such stores could incentivize walking, but without them, the walk is lonely and lacks human contact—all you can do is avoid the cars that swerve a bit too close to the curb in an attempt to save a minute in their journey.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Another advantage of having such visual and auditory attractions for walkers is that the strolls seem shorter and more pleasant.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Without distractions from the thought of reaching your destination, you are constantly focused on how far the next block is, how much longer it is until you arrive, and when the monotony will end.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Anyone who has taken a cross-country road trip with kids I’m sure will realize the same symptoms in the car when passing through cornfields—the groaning of “Are we there yet?” intensifies without anything to hold the interest of the passengers.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">What is sad is that this departure seems to be a trend of the modern city.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>In an attempt to create a paragon of modernity, many cities are abandoning their old pedestrian oriented modes of development for the car-centered world of LA.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>In Shanghai, for example, though much of the city is a good, networked urban center, the new area of Pudong is alien to pedestrians.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Gates and fences hide industrial and office parks away from the sidewalk and render journeys around the city on foot unpleasant and long.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>In Dubai the effect is similar.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>The older areas of Deira and Bur Dubai show the way cities used to develop whereas the gleaming towers along Sheikh Zayed Road epitomize the new, the modern, and the car-centered.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Though there may be walkable parks within each destination, until you get there you are confined to the world of the private auto.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">While the Metro in Dubai helps alleviate this car-centered mindset (and the mounting automobile emissions), it doesn’t help the fact that you still cannot walk between destinations.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>If you can’t or don’t drive, you can ride the Metro or the buses, but again, this is required even for short distances.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Try walking from Financial Center to the Dubai Mall, and aside from having to cross several broad streets, you will find that there is nothing of interest but non-descript high-rise after non-descript high-rise.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>It is a boring walk and seems much longer than it really is.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Now imagine if this were a thriving center of cafes, shops, and people at the base of these high-rises with trees dotting the sidewalk.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>That would make it much more pleasant and even an experience not to be missed.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Perhaps the saddest part of the rapid adoption of modern, car-centered cities around the world is that it contributes to the striation of society into the haves and have-nots.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>The car has become a status symbol, especially in Dubai, and an object that liberates you from the requirement of living in older, better networked cities.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>You have the freedom to live in a new tower or villa even if it is in the middle of the desert because you can drive—who cares if there is nothing in walking distance.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>The result is an inverse relationship between walkability of neighborhoods and income in Dubai.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>As those with money and cars flocked to the new, modern developments where they could not only use but show off their cars, the older areas were given over to the lower income immigrant populations that need the services Deira and Bur Dubai offer along every street just to survive.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>In the time before the Metro, if you lived along Sheikh Zayed without a car, it must have been a chore just to get to and from work and buy groceries.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>And then if you tried to socialize in the evenings too, it either would be very expensive to ride in taxis everywhere or you would have to be careful never to stay out past the time of the last bus home.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The truth is that development doesn’t have to just be one mode or the other—you don’t need just a car centric modern city or a mid-rise networked urban center.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Good mixed-use development that hides parking areas to make shops and communal spaces accessible from both parking lots and sidewalks can combine the culture of the car and the pedestrian into one usable space.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Developers in Dubai just need to escape the mindset that they are building only for the community that drives to their destination.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>They need to begin to see that connecting the towers with walkable lanes and enjoyable public spaces would help the citizens, especially those who can’t drive, but also could garner higher rents due to increased traffic in retail spaces.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>After all, some of the highest rent properties in Shanghai are along Nanjing Road where mixed-use office and residential towers feature prominent shopping spaces for pedestrians at their feet.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>As the work day finishes, occupants need only step on the street to find it illuminated and welcoming for a relaxing evening.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>No driving necessary.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">So if you are in Dubai and head to the top of Burj Khalifa, aside from being astounded by the remarkable height of the building—an engineering marvel in itself—take some time to look at the streets below.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>I challenge you to find pedestrians (if they aren’t invisible from the height of the building) among the cars racing down Sheikh Zayed.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Give some thought to how different Dubai could be if it only incorporated a few more connected walking spaces.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Not every street perhaps can be one, but what if all of that development that stretches along the sands were condensed, built up, and formed into a combined car and pedestrian environment.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>If you get the chance afterward, take a stroll (if you’re ambitious) or a ride down Jumeira Beach Road and notice how few shops line this beachfront street.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Here could be another shopper’s paradise given the breezes, the proximity to the ocean, and the density of villas on all sides.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Yet here again, a road built for cars makes even the few cafes and shops here feel isolated and alien.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Across the world cities are beginning to realize that highways through their urban core destroy social life.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Seoul has spent millions to remove its highway and create a vibrant water space in the city while Boston eliminated a divisive road with its Big Dig.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Perhaps one day Dubai too will realize that Sheikh Zayed Road has outlived its usefulness in bringing an economic boom to the region and will replace it with a more human-oriented space.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Until then, marvel at it from the world’s highest building, and reflect on how quickly the city fades to sand as you move away from the highway.</p>Rob Besthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09463964785697202357noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9070652898233554429.post-52747802655325063302011-01-04T05:32:00.000-08:002011-01-05T03:50:48.638-08:00Seeking Santa in the Sand: Holiday Adventures in Dubai<div style="text-align: left;"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">Since</span> I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">arrived</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">Dubai</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">my</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">progress</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">on</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">my</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">research</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">topic</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">has</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11">been</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_12">progressing</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_13">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_14">fits</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_15">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_16">starts</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_17">because</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_18">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_19">what</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_20">seems</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_21">like</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_22">an</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_23">endless</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_24">stream</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_25">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_26">holidays</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_27">In</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_28">an</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_29">attempt</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_30">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_31">familiarize</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_32">you</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_33">all</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_34">with</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_35">some</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_36">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_37">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_38">customs</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_39">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_40">holidays</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_41">here</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_42">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_43">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_44">UAE</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_45">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_46">relate</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_47">my</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_48">attempts</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_49">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_50">celebrate</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_51">my</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_52">own</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_53">American</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_54">pastimes</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_55">this</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_56">post</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_57">is</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_58">dedicated</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_59">all</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_60">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_61">holidays</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_62">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_63">Dubai</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_64">that</span> I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_65">had</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_66">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_67">good</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_68">fortune</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_69">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_70">experience</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_71">during</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_72">my</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_73">stay</span>.</div> <p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight:normal"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_74">Eid</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_75">al</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_76">Adha</span></i><br /></b><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_77">Within</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_78">three</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_79">weeks</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_80">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_81">landing</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_82">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_83">Dubai</span> I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_84">encountered</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_85">my</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_86">first</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_87">holiday</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_88">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_89">learned</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_90">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_91">extent</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_92">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_93">which</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_94">this</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_95">country</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_96">shuts</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_97">down</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_98">for</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_99">religious</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_100">observances</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_101">Now</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_102">if</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_103">you</span>’<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_104">re</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_105">like</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_106">me</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_107">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_108">probably</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_109">many</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_110">Americans</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_111">you</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_112">may</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_113">never</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_114">have</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_115">heard</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_116">of</span> <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eid_al_adha"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_117">Eid</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_118">al</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_119">Adha</span></a> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_120">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_121">would</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_122">be</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_123">just</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_124">as</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_125">mystified</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_126">by</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_127">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_128">abundance</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_129">of</span> “<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_130">Eid</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_131">Mubarak</span>” <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_132">signs</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_133">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_134">every</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_135">store</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_136">at</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_137">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_138">beginning</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_139">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_140">November</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_141">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_142">Dubai</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_143">Well</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_144">considering</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_145">that</span> I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_146">was</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_147">now</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_148">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_149">an</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_150">Islamic</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_151">nation</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_152">where</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_153">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_154">observance</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_155">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_156">this</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_157">holiday</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_158">is</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_159">important</span>, I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_160">figured</span> I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_161">should</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_162">learn</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_163">something</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_164">about</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_165">it</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_166">Thanks</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_167">to</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_168">combination</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_169">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_170">conversations</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_171">with</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_172">Pakistani</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_173">friend</span>, a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_174">Jordanian</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_175">friend</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_176">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_177">some</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_178">searching</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_179">on</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_180">Wikipedia</span>, I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_181">learned</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_182">that</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_183">it</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_184">is</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_185">religious</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_186">holiday</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_187">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_188">celebrate</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_189">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_190">willingness</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_191">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_192">Abraham</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_193">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_194">sacrifice</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_195">his</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_196">only</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_197">son</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_198">Ishmael</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_199">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_200">God</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_201">as</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_202">proof</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_203">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_204">his</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_205">faith</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_206">The</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_207">celebration</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_208">itself</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_209">is</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_210">only</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_211">one</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_212">day</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_213">but</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_214">it</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_215">is</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_216">extended</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_217">by</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_218">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_219">fact</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_220">that</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_221">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_222">period</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_223">for</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_224">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_225">Hajj</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_226">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_227">ceremonial</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_228">pilgrimage</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_229">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_230">Mecca</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_231">takes</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_232">place</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_233">immediately</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_234">preceding</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_235">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_236">Eid</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_237">holy</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_238">day</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_239">For</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_240">those</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_241">who</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_242">don</span>’t <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_243">know</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_244">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_245">hajj</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_246">is</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_247">one</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_248">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_249">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_250">five</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_251">pillars</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_252">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_253">Islam</span>—<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_254">every</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_255">able</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_256">bodied</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_257">man</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_258">woman</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_259">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_260">child</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_261">must</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_262">make</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_263">trip</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_264">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_265">Mecca</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_266">at</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_267">least</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_268">once</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_269">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_270">their</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_271">lives</span>.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_272">The</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_273">combination</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_274">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_275">these</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_276">two</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_277">important</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_278">events</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_279">means</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_280">that</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_281">there</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_282">is</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_283">period</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_284">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_285">at</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_286">least</span> 3 <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_287">days</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_288">often</span> 5, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_289">when</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_290">businesses</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_291">are</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_292">shut</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_293">government</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_294">agencies</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_295">are</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_296">closed</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_297">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_298">Muslims</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_299">are</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_300">involved</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_301">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_302">religious</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_303">celebrations</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_304">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_305">festivities</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_306">while</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_307">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_308">rest</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_309">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_310">Dubai</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_311">is</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_312">at</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_313">leisure</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_314">Well</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_315">almost</span>—<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_316">out</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_317">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_318">respect</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_319">for</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_320">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_321">holiday</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_322">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_323">its</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_324">symbolism</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_325">even</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_326">hotels</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_327">tend</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_328">not</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_329">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_330">serve</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_331">alcohol</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_332">on</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_333">Eid</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_334">al</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_335">Adha</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_336">or</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_337">even</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_338">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_339">evening</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_340">preceding</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_341">it</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_342">didn</span>’t <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_343">participate</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_344">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_345">any</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_346">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_347">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_348">religious</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_349">festivities</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_350">but</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_351">my</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_352">understanding</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_353">is</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_354">that</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_355">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_356">day</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_357">is</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_358">taken</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_359">up</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_360">with</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_361">certain</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_362">prayers</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_363">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_364">rituals</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_365">followed</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_366">by</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_367">ceremonial</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_368">slaughtering</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_369">of</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_370">goat</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_371">or</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_372">other</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_373">animal</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_374">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_375">symbolize</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_376">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_377">ram</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_378">Abraham</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_379">ultimately</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_380">sacrificed</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_381">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_382">Ishmael</span>’s <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_383">place</span>. <span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_384">The</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_385">meat</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_386">is</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_387">then</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_388">divided</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_389">among</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_390">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_391">relatives</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_392">friends</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_393">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_394">poor</span>.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_395">For</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_396">those</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_397">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_398">Dubai</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_399">who</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_400">are</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_401">not</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_402">Muslim</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_403">Eid</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_404">al</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_405">Adha</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_406">provides</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_407">few</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_408">days</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_409">off</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_410">from</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_411">work</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_412">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_413">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_414">middle</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_415">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_416">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_417">week</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_418">when</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_419">even</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_420">if</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_421">you</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_422">tried</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_423">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_424">work</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_425">since</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_426">everything</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_427">else</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_428">is</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_429">closed</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_430">you</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_431">will</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_432">have</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_433">trouble</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_434">Malls</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_435">have</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_436">sales</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_437">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_438">thus</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_439">are</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_440">quite</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_441">crowded</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_442">with</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_443">bargain</span>-<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_444">seekers</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_445">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_446">all</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_447">nationalities</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_448">For</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_449">me</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_450">this</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_451">was</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_452">chance</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_453">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_454">both</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_455">explore</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_456">bit</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_457">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_458">Dubai</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_459">around</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_460">my</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_461">new</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_462">apartment</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_463">but</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_464">also</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_465">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_466">bargain</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_467">hunt</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_468">for</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_469">new</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_470">camera</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_471">mine</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_472">having</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_473">sadly</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_474">meant</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_475">an</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_476">untimely</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_477">end</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>(<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_478">This</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_479">hunt</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_480">was</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_481">success</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_482">as</span> I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_483">wound</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_484">up</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_485">with</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_486">new</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_487">camera</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_488">by</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_489">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_490">end</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_491">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_492">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_493">holiday</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_494">break</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_495">and</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_496">spare</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_497">camera</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_498">for</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_499">free</span>!)<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_500">Though</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_501">because</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_502">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_503">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_504">loss</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_505">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_506">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_507">camera</span> I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_508">have</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_509">no</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_510">pictures</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_511">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_512">show</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_513">for</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_514">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_515">break</span>, I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_516">can</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_517">say</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_518">that</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_519">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_520">relaxing</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_521">strolls</span> I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_522">took</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_523">along</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_524">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_525">Jumeirah</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_526">Beach</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_527">area</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_528">were</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_529">filled</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_530">with</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_531">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_532">sights</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_533">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_534">shoppers</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_535">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_536">families</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_537">out</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_538">enjoying</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_539">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_540">respite</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_541">from</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_542">work</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_543">There</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_544">was</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_545">not</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_546">too</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_547">much</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_548">exciting</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_549">for</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_550">this</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_551">holiday</span>—<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_552">as</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_553">it</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_554">was</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_555">religious</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_556">observance</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_557">more</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_558">than</span><span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_559">day</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_560">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_561">celebration</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_562">there</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_563">was</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_564">just</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_565">general</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_566">relaxed</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_567">atmosphere</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_568">rather</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_569">than</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_570">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_571">merriment</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_572">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_573">fun</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_574">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_575">come</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_576">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_577">some</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_578">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_579">my</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_580">later</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_581">holiday</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_582">experiences</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_583">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_584">Dubai</span>.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight:normal"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_585">Thanksgiving</span></i></b><br /><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_586">As</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_587">one</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_588">might</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_589">expect</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_590">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_591">decidedly</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_592">American</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_593">holiday</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_594">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_595">Thanksgiving</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_596">has</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_597">little</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_598">relevance</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_599">here</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_600">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_601">Dubai</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_602">Not</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_603">only</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_604">is</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_605">this</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_606">not</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_607">America</span> (I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_608">know</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_609">big</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_610">surprise</span>) <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_611">but</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_612">its</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_613">major</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_614">expat</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_615">communities</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_616">are</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_617">British</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_618">Irish</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_619">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_620">Australian</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_621">The</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_622">American</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_623">population</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_624">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_625">Dubai</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_626">is</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_627">actually</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_628">rather</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_629">small</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_630">relative</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_631">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_632">these</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_633">others</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_634">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_635">so</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_636">it</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_637">was</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_638">difficult</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_639">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_640">find</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_641">Thanksgiving</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_642">Unsurprisingly</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_643">there</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_644">no</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_645">turkeys</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_646">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_647">stores</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_648">or</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_649">strings</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_650">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_651">multi</span>-<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_652">colored</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_653">leaves</span>—<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_654">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_655">latter</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_656">would</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_657">be</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_658">out</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_659">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_660">place</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_661">anyway</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_662">as</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_663">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_664">only</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_665">indigenous</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_666">trees</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_667">here</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_668">don</span>’t <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_669">change</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_670">color</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_671">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_672">winter</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_673">And</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_674">certainly</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_675">there</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_676">were</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_677">no</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_678">pilgrims</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_679">or</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_680">Native</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_681">Americans</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_682">offering</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_683">their</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_684">bounty</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_685">at</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_686">discounted</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_687">prices</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_688">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_689">passersby</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_690">Furthermore</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_691">as</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_692">it</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_693">falls</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_694">on</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_695">Thursday</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_696">it</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_697">is</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_698">just</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_699">another</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_700">work</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_701">day</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_702">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_703">with</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_704">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_705">Big</span> 5 <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_706">Conference</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_707">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_708">town</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_709">for</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_710">me</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_711">it</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_712">was</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_713">another</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_714">day</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_715">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_716">networking</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_717">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_718">collecting</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_719">countless</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_720">magazines</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_721">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_722">pamphlets</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_723">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_724">wade</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_725">through</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_726">later</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_727">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_728">understand</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_729">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_730">building</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_731">materials</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_732">market</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_733">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_734">Dubai</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_735">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_736">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_737">UAE</span>.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_738">had</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_739">expected</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_740">that</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_741">restaurants</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_742">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_743">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_744">hotels</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_745">would</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_746">at</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_747">least</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_748">indulge</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_749">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_750">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_751">holiday</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_752">as</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_753">way</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_754">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_755">make</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_756">buck</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_757">off</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_758">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_759">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_760">nostalgic</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_761">Americans</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_762">here</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_763">on</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_764">business</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_765">or</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_766">now</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_767">living</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_768">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_769">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_770">country</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_771">but</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_772">was</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_773">surprised</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_774">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_775">find</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_776">that</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_777">even</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_778">this</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_779">was</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_780">minimal</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_781">The</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_782">offerings</span> I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_783">found</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_784">were</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_785">either</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_786">expensive</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_787">or</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_788">not</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_789">truly</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_790">American</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_791">My</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_792">final</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_793">choice</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_794">was</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_795">buffet</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_796">proudly</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_797">featuring</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_798">carved</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_799">turkey</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_800">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_801">Budweiser</span>—<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_802">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_803">consummate</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_804">seasonal</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_805">American</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_806">drink</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_807">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_808">their</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_809">opinion</span>—<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_810">but</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_811">lacking</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_812">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_813">supporting</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_814">cast</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_815">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_816">stuffing</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_817">mashed</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_818">potatoes</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_819">sweet</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_820">potatoes</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_821">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_822">pumpkin</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_823">pie</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_824">Perhaps</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_825">it</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_826">was</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_827">an</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_828">intentional</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_829">sleight</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_830">as</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_831">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_832">restaurant</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_833">was</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_834">British</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_835">pub</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_836">Maybe</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_837">they</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_838">were</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_839">trying</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_840">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_841">subtly</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_842">stick</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_843">it</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_844">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_845">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_846">rebels</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_847">after</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_848">all</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_849">these</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_850">years</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_851">by</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_852">hitting</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_853">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_854">Americans</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_855">where</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_856">it</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_857">hurts</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_858">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_859">most</span>—<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_860">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_861">stomach</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_862">Whether</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_863">or</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_864">not</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_865">this</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_866">was</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_867">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_868">motivation</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_869">it</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_870">left</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_871">me</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_872">satisfied</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_873">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_874">some</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_875">way</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_876">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_877">wanting</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_878">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_879">others</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_880">as</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_881">my</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_882">mind</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_883">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_884">stomach</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_885">were</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_886">trying</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_887">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_888">drift</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_889">across</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_890">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_891">ocean</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_892">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_893">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_894">traditional</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_895">family</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_896">meals</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_897">they</span>’<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_898">ve</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_899">enjoyed</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_900">every</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_901">other</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_902">Thanksgiving</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_903">To</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_904">try</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_905">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_906">assuage</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_907">this</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_908">craving</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_909">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_910">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_911">lack</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_912">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_913">pumpkin</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_914">pie</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_915">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_916">dessert</span>, I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_917">composed</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_918">Thanksgiving</span> blog <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_919">post</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_920">over</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_921">pumpkin</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_922">spice</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_923">latte</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_924">during</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_925">my</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_926">Black</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_927">Friday</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_928">shopping</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_929">at</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_930">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_931">Dubai</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_932">Mall</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_933">that</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_934">can</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_935">give</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_936">you</span> a <a href="http://robswatsonadventure.blogspot.com/2010/11/happy-thanksgiving-from-dubai.html"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_937">bit</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_938">more</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_939">insight</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_940">into</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_941">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_942">holiday</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_943">here</span></a>.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight:normal"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_944">National</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_945">Day</span></i></b><br /><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_946">Not</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_947">two</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_948">full</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_949">weeks</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_950">after</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_951">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_952">Eid</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_953">holiday</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_954">all</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_955">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_956">Dubai</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_957">again</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_958">was</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_959">on</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_960">break</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_961">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_962">celebrate</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_963">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_964">UAE</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_965">National</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_966">Day</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_967">on</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_968">December</span> 2.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_969">This</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_970">year</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_971">marked</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_972">the</span> 39<sup><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_973">th</span></sup> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_974">anniversary</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_975">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_976">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_977">nation</span>’s <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_978">founding</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_979">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_980">thanks</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_981">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_982">all</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_983">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_984">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_985">posters</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_986">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_987">storefronts</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_988">reminding</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_989">you</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_990">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_991">that</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_992">fact</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_993">not</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_994">even</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_995">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_996">most</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_997">forgetful</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_998">would</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_999">be</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1000">able</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1001">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1002">avoid</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1003">remembering</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1004">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1005">day</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1006">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1007">its</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1008">significance</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1009">Again</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1010">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1011">holiday</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1012">signified</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1013">respite</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1014">from</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1015">work</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1016">for</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1017">all</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1018">across</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1019">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1020">nation</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1021">but</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1022">this</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1023">time</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1024">rather</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1025">than</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1026">religious</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1027">overtone</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1028">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1029">day</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1030">was</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1031">full</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1032">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1033">cheer</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1034">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1035">merriment</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1036">Though</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1037">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1038">official</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1039">celebration</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1040">was</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1041">on</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1042">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1043">night</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1044">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1045">December</span> 1, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1046">the</span> 2<sup><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1047">nd</span></sup> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1048">was</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1049">full</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1050">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1051">revelry</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1052">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1053">celebrations</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1054">as</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1055">well</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1056">Every</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1057">mall</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1058">had</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1059">some</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1060">sort</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1061">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1062">activities</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1063">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1064">parades</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1065">as</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1066">well</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1067">as</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1068">activities</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1069">planned</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1070">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1071">other</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1072">public</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1073">spaces</span>.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1074">After</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1075">sleeping</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1076">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1077">following</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1078">visa</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1079">run</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1080">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1081">Muscat</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1082">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1083">previous</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1084">day</span> (<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1085">look</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1086">for</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1087">that</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1088">in</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1089">future</span> blog!) <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1090">which</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1091">coincidentally</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1092">happened</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1093">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1094">be</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1095">their</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1096">National</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1097">Day</span>, I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1098">headed</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1099">out</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1100">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1101">Dubai</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1102">Creek</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1103">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1104">try</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1105">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1106">catch</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1107">parade</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1108">that</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1109">supposedly</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1110">happens</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1111">annually</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1112">there</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1113">on</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1114">both</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1115">land</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1116">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1117">water</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1118">found</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1119">no</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1120">traces</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1121">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1122">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1123">parade</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1124">at</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1125">least</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1126">where</span> I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1127">was</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1128">along</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1129">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1130">river</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1131">but</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1132">did</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1133">find</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1134">plenty</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1135">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1136">people</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1137">celebrating</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1138">with</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1139">green</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1140">red</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1141">black</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1142">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1143">white</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1144">streamers</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1145">adorning</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1146">restauarants</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1147">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1148">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1149">abras</span> (<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1150">water</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1151">taxis</span>) <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1152">that</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1153">were</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1154">ferrying</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1155">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1156">masses</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1157">from</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1158">bank</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1159">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1160">bank</span>.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1161">From</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1162">here</span>, I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1163">headed</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1164">off</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1165">to</span> <a href="http://www.mirdifcitycentre.com/mcc/Default.aspx"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1166">Mirdif</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1167">City</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1168">Centre</span></a>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1169">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1170">newest</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1171">mall</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1172">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1173">town</span> (<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1174">well</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1175">just</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1176">barely</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1177">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1178">town</span>—<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1179">it</span>’s <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1180">in</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1181">very</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1182">barren</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1183">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1184">still</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1185">developing</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1186">corner</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1187">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1188">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1189">city</span>), <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1190">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1191">take</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1192">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1193">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1194">National</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1195">Day</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1196">celebration</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1197">they</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1198">were</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1199">advertising</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1200">all</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1201">over</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1202">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1203">an</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1204">attempt</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1205">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1206">craw</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1207">people</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1208">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1209">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1210">mall</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1211">arrived</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1212">bit</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1213">early</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1214">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1215">so</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1216">wandered</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1217">around</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1218">while</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1219">waiting</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1220">for</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1221">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1222">celebration</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1223">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1224">begin</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1225">As</span> I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1226">wandered</span>, I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1227">was</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1228">handed</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1229">small</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1230">UAE</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1231">flag</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1232">that</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1233">adorned</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1234">my</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1235">messenger</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1236">bag</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1237">for</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1238">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1239">remainder</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1240">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1241">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1242">day</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1243">as</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1244">show</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1245">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1246">my</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1247">support</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1248">for</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1249">my</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1250">current</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1251">nation</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1252">Passing</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1253">displays</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1254">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1255">Sheikh</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1256">Khalifa</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1257">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1258">Sheikh</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1259">Zayed</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1260">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1261">current</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1262">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1263">past</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1264">ruler</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1265">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1266">Dubai</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1267">respectively</span>, I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1268">arrived</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1269">at</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1270">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1271">kickoff</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1272">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1273">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1274">celebration</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1275">where</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1276">dozens</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1277">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1278">children</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1279">were</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1280">lined</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1281">up</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1282">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1283">different</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1284">colored</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1285">smocks</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1286">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1287">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1288">shape</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1289">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1290">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1291">UAE</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1292">flag</span>.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXKhL-8qRKsxpEzDFQ0i8GFZncM4Btim5kWWb3pGb0mHICXwlBM5-ukdiKI8m3JF7hAOQnCMbXN1s6DLP3WlX7CYniuxOblGUOU7j_DxNk29O17rhNgo8TXMmYaQt3ZhZaAI51ieWnVyU/s320/P1010266.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5558323791266086770" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1293">The</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1294">children</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1295">were</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1296">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1297">all</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1298">nationalities</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1299">showing</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1300">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1301">truly</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1302">global</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1303">nature</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1304">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1305">this</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1306">city</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1307">Soon</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1308">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1309">flag</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1310">dispersed</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1311">and</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1312">led</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1313">by</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1314">stiltwalkers</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1315">and</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1316">unicyclist</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1317">began</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1318">parade</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1319">through</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1320">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1321">mall</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1322">In</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1323">tow</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1324">as</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1325">well</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1326">were</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1327">two</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1328">groups</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1329">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1330">UAE</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1331">nationals</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1332">dancing</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1333">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1334">singing</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1335">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1336">traditional</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1337">styles</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1338">providing</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1339">an</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1340">excellent</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1341">introduction</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1342">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1343">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1344">cultural</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1345">activities</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1346">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1347">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1348">UAE</span>.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKo9cLhk7FWe2PfYeHjyplKO6Xn_i2zVc2NcEmHM0oWFactJv1NsZ37MrT8RUtKOxlxC1uSX29bGFhZ0602piBnadpfUdAXLYrIbqTg1jedzCPkVI6P50rUZ0Jzeog15RNgVbkd9LdxrU/s320/P1010262.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5558323786391771442" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></b></p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAAifttuxbEPAO1lf-Y_noEMhNeweOtqxAaRlURFgq42U4fW3Y2eoCphhcTcLijQ4a-ljScDgudqUOvT4fo6E653QIxMfGoiF4dqxM4keM6cD_8icrPP3apW38bxt96fBWWpWRu4612Dc/s320/P1010268.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5558323796674356978" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1349">The</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1350">dancing</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1351">was</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1352">fantastic</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1353">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1354">continued</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1355">even</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1356">after</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1357">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1358">parade</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1359">much</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1360">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1361">my</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1362">delight</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1363">The</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1364">traditional</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1365">styles</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1366">for</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1367">men</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1368">involve</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1369">twirling</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1370">sticks</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1371">above</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1372">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1373">head</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1374">grouping</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1375">together</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1376">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1377">bobbing</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1378">heads</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1379">up</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1380">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1381">down</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1382">while</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1383">individuals</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1384">dance</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1385">more</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1386">freely</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1387">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1388">other</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1389">coordinated</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1390">moves</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1391">found</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1392">them</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1393">very</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1394">interesting</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1395">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1396">it</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1397">was</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1398">really</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1399">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1400">first</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1401">time</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1402">that</span> I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1403">had</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1404">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1405">experience</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1406">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1407">taking</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1408">in</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1409">traditional</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1410">dance</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1411">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1412">that</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1413">style</span>.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1414">From</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1415">Mirdif</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1416">City</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1417">Centre</span> I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1418">decided</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1419">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1420">go</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1421">check</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1422">out</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1423">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1424">jewel</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1425">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1426">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1427">Dubai</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1428">malls</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1429">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1430">aptly</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1431">named</span> <a href="http://www.thedubaimall.com/en"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1432">Dubai</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1433">Mall</span></a> (<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1434">aka</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1435">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1436">largest</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1437">mall</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1438">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1439">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1440">world</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1441">by</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1442">floor</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1443">space</span>) <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1444">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1445">see</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1446">what</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1447">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1448">sprawling</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1449">complex</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1450">at</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1451">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1452">foot</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1453">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1454">Burj</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1455">Khalifa</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1456">had</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1457">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1458">store</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1459">Not</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1460">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1461">be</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1462">outdone</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1463">by</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1464">its</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1465">newer</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1466">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1467">smaller</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1468">cousin</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1469">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1470">Dubai</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1471">Mall</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1472">was</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1473">packed</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1474">with</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1475">three</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1476">floors</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1477">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1478">onlookers</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1479">watching</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1480">various</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1481">dance</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1482">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1483">musical</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1484">acts</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1485">performing</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1486">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1487">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1488">traditional</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1489">style</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1490">on</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1491">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1492">bottom</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1493">floor</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1494">watched</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1495">as</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1496">dancers</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1497">bobbed</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1498">weaved</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1499">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1500">twirled</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1501">while</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1502">flashing</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1503">daggers</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1504">sticks</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1505">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1506">their</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1507">bellies</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1508">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1509">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1510">enchanting</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1511">melodies</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1512">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1513">stringed</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1514">instruments</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1515">drums</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1516">voices</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1517">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1518">other</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1519">traditional</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1520">instruments</span>.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe2cdsW9ks3K0ZlvdVvB8bR7EDbKAQZ1vPSar0cVTc8ak0zuRuzVaYVULHuoELq_DA3n6D8DYHtJah6jiQWxMZvYzN5lODG2S-H7msXtJ5N02chlZmdpIWX67_mT8JzTwmezIbU2-q15Y/s320/P1010323.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5558323804937223026" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></b></p><div style="text-align: center;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1521">The</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1522">aquarium</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1523">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1524">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1525">Dubai</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1526">Mall</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1527">on</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1528">National</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1529">Day</span></span></b></div> <p class="MsoNormal"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1530">As</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1531">hard</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1532">as</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1533">it</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1534">was</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1535">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1536">do</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1537">when</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1538">after</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1539">several</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1540">performances</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1541">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1542">dancers</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1543">took</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1544">break</span>, I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1545">tore</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1546">myself</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1547">away</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1548">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1549">headed</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1550">out</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1551">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1552">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1553">Dubai</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1554">fountain</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1555">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1556">take</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1557">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1558">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1559">special</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1560">fountain</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1561">show</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1562">choreographed</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1563">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1564">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1565">UAE</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1566">National</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1567">Anthem</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1568">at</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1569">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1570">foot</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1571">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1572">Burj</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1573">Khalifa</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1574">For</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1575">military</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1576">march</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1577">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1578">anthem</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1579">was</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1580">quite</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1581">romanticized</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1582">by</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1583">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1584">dancing</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1585">water</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1586">much</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1587">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1588">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1589">delight</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1590">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1591">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1592">throngs</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1593">gathered</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1594">around</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1595">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1596">pool</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1597">The</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1598">show</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1599">over</span>, I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1600">headed</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1601">inside</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1602">once</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1603">more</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1604">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1605">view</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1606">an</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1607">art</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1608">display</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1609">with</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1610">amazing</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1611">photos</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1612">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1613">Dubai</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1614">paused</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1615">just</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1616">once</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1617">more</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1618">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1619">listen</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1620">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1621">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1622">new</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1623">band</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1624">that</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1625">had</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1626">taken</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1627">up</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1628">playing</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1629">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1630">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1631">multi</span>-<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1632">storey</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1633">atrium</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1634">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1635">then</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1636">took</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1637">my</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1638">leave</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1639">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1640">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1641">Dubai</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1642">Mall</span>.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1643">Not</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1644">satisfied</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1645">with</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1646">this</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1647">conclusion</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1648">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1649">my</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1650">National</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1651">Day</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1652">celebration</span>, I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1653">had</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1654">one</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1655">more</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1656">stop</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1657">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1658">make</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1659">close</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1660">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1661">home</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1662">at</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1663">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1664">Walk</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1665">at</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1666">Jumeirah</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1667">Beach</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1668">Residence</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1669">arrived</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1670">just</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1671">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1672">time</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1673">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1674">catch</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1675">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1676">last</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1677">three</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1678">or</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1679">so</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1680">dances</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1681">by</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1682">yet</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1683">another</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1684">group</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1685">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1686">Emiratis</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1687">eager</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1688">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1689">show</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1690">off</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1691">their</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1692">traditional</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1693">practices</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1694">Here</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1695">again</span>, I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1696">saw</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1697">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1698">heads</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1699">bobbing</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1700">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1701">encouragement</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1702">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1703">young</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1704">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1705">old</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1706">dancers</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1707">skillfully</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1708">twirling</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1709">rifles</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1710">sabres</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1711">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1712">sticks</span>.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFjFrhbCL-szciHhQUkP22ORYWoX0cz4yXL2CwzXGEDl-2pLSUCqfzmbliWjF8YIakuWIe9-8FMDcSG2i0A9yupctRJlepnW-tACsoAR0u7tJiA73V_lJxCOo4TDYG1W-1cX_ClayVRIE/s1600/P1010355.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFjFrhbCL-szciHhQUkP22ORYWoX0cz4yXL2CwzXGEDl-2pLSUCqfzmbliWjF8YIakuWIe9-8FMDcSG2i0A9yupctRJlepnW-tACsoAR0u7tJiA73V_lJxCOo4TDYG1W-1cX_ClayVRIE/s320/P1010355.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5558324229180312674" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghtQ0HQLlR6IHAPZEXTtz7GqsvlbI42vyYKz7Cag7ALl1JTNIAtbXSMrB815F64DIJDbdDW0gxC-SL0r9Bl3OY9bz32kHg2LeYkwHApv9Gz7S7FsdYxoWj5TjgVjXPTSvMEn8uEsG-NFw/s1600/P1010361.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghtQ0HQLlR6IHAPZEXTtz7GqsvlbI42vyYKz7Cag7ALl1JTNIAtbXSMrB815F64DIJDbdDW0gxC-SL0r9Bl3OY9bz32kHg2LeYkwHApv9Gz7S7FsdYxoWj5TjgVjXPTSvMEn8uEsG-NFw/s320/P1010361.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5558324222790715634" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 180px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxOR4pWtizhB3VmnBjXrGSLp2fp9ZQkrQ2ebfF_JMANOeNLAEehp0guBaFJkXF9phq6Yj8CRVmXMCvAX7E7_w71ouJq8ZEVbXX_CIHu3soV2xuW_0vAscjdzJsIDDXp-aifKZJEAUKBqQ/s1600/P1010360.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxOR4pWtizhB3VmnBjXrGSLp2fp9ZQkrQ2ebfF_JMANOeNLAEehp0guBaFJkXF9phq6Yj8CRVmXMCvAX7E7_w71ouJq8ZEVbXX_CIHu3soV2xuW_0vAscjdzJsIDDXp-aifKZJEAUKBqQ/s320/P1010360.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5558324218568977938" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 180px; " /></a></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1713">When</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1714">these</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1715">dancers</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1716">finished</span>, I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1717">wandered</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1718">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1719">Walk</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1720">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1721">found</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1722">collection</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1723">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1724">model</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1725">Bedouin</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1726">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1727">traditional</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1728">homes</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1729">with</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1730">Emirati</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1731">men</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1732">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1733">women</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1734">out</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1735">front</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1736">offering</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1737">traditional</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1738">coffee</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1739">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1740">dates</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1741">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1742">explaining</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1743">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1744">arts</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1745">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1746">henna</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1747">painting</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1748">weaving</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1749">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1750">falconry</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1751">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1752">interested</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1753">passersby</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1754">After</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1755">listening</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1756">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1757">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1758">falconers</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1759">for</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1760">few</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1761">minutes</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1762">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1763">admiring</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1764">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1765">birds</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1766">they</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1767">had</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1768">brought</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1769">out</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1770">it</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1771">was</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1772">time</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1773">for</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1774">these</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1775">living</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1776">displays</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1777">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1778">end</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1779">so</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1780">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1781">participants</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1782">could</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1783">engage</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1784">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1785">revelry</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1786">as</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1787">well</span>.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1788">Now</span> I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1789">suppose</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1790">it</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1791">should</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1792">be</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1793">unsurprising</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1794">that</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1795">in</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1796">nation</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1797">so</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1798">reliant</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1799">on</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1800">cars</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1801">for</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1802">life</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1803">as</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1804">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1805">UAE</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1806">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1807">National</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1808">Day</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1809">celebrations</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1810">also</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1811">center</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1812">on</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1813">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1814">car</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1815">Here</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1816">at</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1817">JBR</span>, a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1818">favorite</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1819">relaxation</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1820">spot</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1821">for</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1822">locals</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1823">as</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1824">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1825">night</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1826">wore</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1827">on</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1828">more</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1829">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1830">more</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1831">cars</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1832">emerged</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1833">bearing</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1834">crazy</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1835">decorations</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1836">for</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1837">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1838">holiday</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1839">ranging</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1840">from</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1841">simple</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1842">flags</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1843">on</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1844">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1845">windows</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1846">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1847">screened</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1848">on</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1849">effigies</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1850">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1851">Sheikh</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1852">Khalifa</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1853">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1854">Sheikh</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1855">Mohammed</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1856">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1857">painted</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1858">on</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1859">signs</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1860">feathers</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1861">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1862">sparkles</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1863">Cars</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1864">moved</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1865">at</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1866">crawl</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1867">along</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1868">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1869">Walk</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1870">allowing</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1871">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1872">passengers</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1873">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1874">stand</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1875">with</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1876">their</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1877">heads</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1878">out</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1879">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1880">roofs</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1881">wave</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1882">flags</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1883">blow</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1884">horns</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1885">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1886">announce</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1887">their</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1888">celebration</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1889">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1890">National</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1891">Day</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1892">In</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1893">all</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1894">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1895">this</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1896">what</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1897">may</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1898">surprise</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1899">you</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1900">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1901">certainly</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1902">surprised</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1903">me</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1904">is</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1905">that</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1906">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1907">other</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1908">way</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1909">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1910">celebrating</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1911">was</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1912">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1913">arm</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1914">yourself</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1915">with</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1916">silly</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1917">string</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1918">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1919">spray</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1920">it</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1921">at</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1922">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1923">passing</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1924">cars</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1925">as</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1926">long</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1927">as</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1928">you</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1929">were</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1930">willing</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1931">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1932">take</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1933">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1934">return</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1935">barrage</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1936">from</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1937">those</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1938">popped</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1939">out</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1940">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1941">top</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1942">In</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1943">fact</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1944">it</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1945">was</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1946">almost</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1947">game</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1948">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1949">see</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1950">how</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1951">much</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1952">you</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1953">could</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1954">get</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1955">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1956">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1957">windows</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1958">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1959">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1960">car</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1961">to</span> “<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1962">decorate</span>” <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1963">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1964">interior</span>.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT9GYR0W8eo6f9iyDoE4CoeXjD1CAVJsgvINJH_kY1YuavcOHmb3_as5SyCdJmk-qfcAtRzbSp7a-pO5XW1f7DP0KoEU_qFLSmoyZreY6k7UliAWs08PhRg9lugf7JlxnScCJrokeo2mw/s1600/P1010365.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT9GYR0W8eo6f9iyDoE4CoeXjD1CAVJsgvINJH_kY1YuavcOHmb3_as5SyCdJmk-qfcAtRzbSp7a-pO5XW1f7DP0KoEU_qFLSmoyZreY6k7UliAWs08PhRg9lugf7JlxnScCJrokeo2mw/s320/P1010365.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5558324865777772930" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwv7aGVvMrDkn4GqeI6vOTairpt5GAa6oKjtbiVJhEAoCET6ezfHaG81t8ETabmkw3Ik0RGScEh5_6pUkC3fPpb2gHE8ByCn_qcrZvRxjmAE6_mmzTVjM4Ud6EX_qnQvaIpP9WvXxETaw/s1600/P1010364.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwv7aGVvMrDkn4GqeI6vOTairpt5GAa6oKjtbiVJhEAoCET6ezfHaG81t8ETabmkw3Ik0RGScEh5_6pUkC3fPpb2gHE8ByCn_qcrZvRxjmAE6_mmzTVjM4Ud6EX_qnQvaIpP9WvXxETaw/s320/P1010364.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5558324865047926018" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFA6k5pZKSovpmlDYw09ar1gUrIbK499FcBePUoCxAzjvYxBw6JFYdTLHnte9IRKlcz-DhQFyAza9fwD_Rft0zCCKhDaABsPdzyj1NFKQZefJk2A1gOs_z2iVVgbriaR_2eJxhT45i1XY/s1600/P1010362.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFA6k5pZKSovpmlDYw09ar1gUrIbK499FcBePUoCxAzjvYxBw6JFYdTLHnte9IRKlcz-DhQFyAza9fwD_Rft0zCCKhDaABsPdzyj1NFKQZefJk2A1gOs_z2iVVgbriaR_2eJxhT45i1XY/s320/P1010362.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5558324233911152978" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWWonFdnLVyoDpOajcR509ffSaDRjsGDY6GmYR7Nl6Jh3_Upftm38FByk6UYBa4tuhrqm5H9tyDE6NLviK-aRZFzpcRL9ShmfFxAlSRBS_gJQBV3ovOJUGJUr_RkOKpPeYINeAop4yZvM/s1600/P1010359.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWWonFdnLVyoDpOajcR509ffSaDRjsGDY6GmYR7Nl6Jh3_Upftm38FByk6UYBa4tuhrqm5H9tyDE6NLviK-aRZFzpcRL9ShmfFxAlSRBS_gJQBV3ovOJUGJUr_RkOKpPeYINeAop4yZvM/s320/P1010359.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5558324238125578498" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></span></b></p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZMQWuvj_VYkr4_-k1T2Gd0_Qsa3sSp68SL9YtsVlDgDruzgaiWI0w-grLjJ6iaGCuV94laOBVrIJUxEd9OYbqIJ-E0ybY9tH4AaxednQKut_f9u6b3zURfZteKQaUcQFOgvg3uNqzZs4/s320/P1010368.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5558324871390291906" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">This relatively, well, silly practice made for a fun atmosphere that encouraged spontaneous singing, dancing, and flashy shows by teenagers having fun trying to hit the passing cars.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>For three hours I stood watching this celebration occasionally joining in the applause, yelling, and celebration.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Not knowing, however, that I was supposed to bring silly string, I did not fire any volleys at passersby and in return left home just as clean as when I had started the night.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Now I understand this post is about fun times and holidays, but a quick diversion to sustainability for a moment.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Though I was enjoying the merriment of the night, I couldn’t help but wonder how much energy and cleaning went into preparing these cars just for the night.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>With all of the decorating and screening on of decals, I know that some cars will have to be completely repainted or at least stripped of their décor and thoroughly washed.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>This is compounded by the silly string that will undoubtedly be in every nook and cranny of the interiors.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>In a nation already imperiled by a water shortage, is this really an environmentally-conscious way to celebrate?<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>And with all of the fuel used to parade cars in circles at a snail’s pace, it’s clear that environmentalism is not a part of UAE National Day.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Alright, now back to the fun stuff.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>My night ended after most of the crowd at JBR had dissipated around 2 am, though there were still silly string battles to be finished in an attempt to empty the last cans of the night.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>However before my National Day festivities were complete, I had one more event to attend that Saturday night—the musical adaptation of Sheikh Zayed’s life: “Zayed and the Dream.”<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>This musical is the chronicling of the founding of the UAE told in song and dance in Arabic and, fortunately, subtitled in English.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Beginning with the seven emirates in a state of unrest, famine, and problems, the play shows the growth and development of Sheikh Zayed and his commanding ability to, through justice resolve, and a power presence, unite the emirates under a single flag.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Though I’m sure it lost something in translation, the play was nonetheless poetic and the dancing was fantastic and all traditional choreography set to Arabic music.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>My one criticism of the play was that it seemed to deify Sheikh Zayed as a prophet or chosen one.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>The narrator, a character likened to Father Time, appeared omniscient as if a god, and seven warriors representing virtue appeared multiple times to Sheikh Zayed to lead him on the path to righteousness as if in fulfillment of a prophecy.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>This was a bit offputting to me as I expected more of a biopic than a litany of praise, but it was still enjoyable and the dancing and singing were truly incredible.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>(Sorry, no pictures or video on this one out of respect to the policies of the theatre.)</p> <p class="MsoNormal">With the final bow of the cast, my National Day celebrations ended and I was back to work with the rest of the country, at least for a couple of weeks until…</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight:normal"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal">Christmas</i></b><br />I suppose that I should be thankful that Christmas fell on a Saturday this year.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Otherwise I’m not sure that I would have had a chance to enjoy Christmas Eve and Christmas day without giving a care to whether I had e-mails to check or practitioners to meet.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>As you might guess, in this Muslim nation Christmas does not hold the same significance as it does in the States or in Europe.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>In fact, as I found out through asking the expats I met, the only place really to find Christmas is in the malls and hotels.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>You might cynically say that is no different than America, but I really began to notice the lack of Christmas in the air here.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>In the States it is so ubiquitous (even if for commercial purposes) as to be inescapable.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Think about it—you leave the house only to be bombarded on all sides by Christmas lights, billboards with Santa, decorations on lampposts, and in some cities public Christmas trees or (god, or rather ACLU, forbid) Nativity scenes.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Flip on the airwaves, and you find that Christmas lives there too in the collection of seasonal favorites that we only indulge for a month out of every 12.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Go to a mall, store, hotel, or even office building and you will surely find an indication of the holidays there too whether it be a lavish tree, garland, lights, or a coworker in a sweater that no matter how out of style it may be, it’s acceptable now because it’s festive.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Return home and flip on the tube to find Frosty and Rudolph dancing the same dances they have since the ‘60s while Lifetime and the networks compete ‘round the clock to have their latest creation christened as the season’s next big movie (almost all of which you will probably never see again).<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Yes, even though much of this is commercially motivated, it still puts a smile on most faces and aside from a few incidents of mall parking lot road rage, a joyous feeling in the hearts of all.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Now to imagine a Dubai Christmas, subtract all of that except the lavish mall and hotel decorations.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>That’s a start.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Now without the ubiquity of the season to gently mask the commercialism, it is exposed for all to see.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Furthermore, since this is a Muslim nation and many customers care not that it is Christmas, it seems almost even more of a marketing ploy or lure for the large expat community looking to make merry in the middle of the desert.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Some stores put up a decoration or two—my favorite is the one below.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Most don’t even bother.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiesc8I98payexalQlT0A9VyvKpTWwKVCF8eo3lUsbh_PdTs8QOg_763_eJhdOnjjJZ4qoUnsdy5hA857Rzbc66lecPi24DK5rBYQnmKSvtgg8IDcZyW8JvzJ4NcnKubDTiRlHd2Ckclg/s320/P1010292.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5558323801642856066" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Perhaps it is that the typical imagery of Christmas is also so out of place here that the festivity doesn’t seem genuine.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>After all, there are not pine trees here and the only snow is indoors at Ski Dubai.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Whatever the reason, it didn’t stop me from trying to find Christmas here in Dubai.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>In fact, my search began not long after Thanksgiving when with luck I happened to learn about a “Christmas Majilis” in Bur Dubai.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>A “majilis” is a gathering of friends but, in this case, referred to a market in one of the galleries in the old part of town.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>The market is a weekly event and here they were having a Chistmas edition as the service was run by expats who were probably singing the <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_FB3h8IFCro">Babes in Toyland song</a> with the rest of the European and American communities here.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Though small, there were some nice holiday touches including personally made greetgin cards by a wonderful British lady.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>As we chatted, she informed me of another market the following weekend in, where else, a mall down Sheikh Zayed Road.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Eager to grab as much of the Christmas spirit as I could, I headed down there the next weekend to find another community of local and international crafts men and women selling both their weekly wares and special holiday editions.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkm7zPdhox1AbeU7co790pV4sl6jOe8aATSJlSvC-bwiSwvFraFMsgfIwTxmhagrC986yk5dMAHeJl2KkksZfcoKPhkg9lukvdvyIOAjtKQukyONZisAZcEh02mtxWlAajyx7I0jxW4B8/s320/P1010432.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5558324877222452706" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></b></p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKjgg9ah-iQm66q7Oj_yZYQX46sBWtRG6FRDT9fF1_wU1Ga8nNZxQg_DZw8ZZ99HitDjE-wEWgVWF7AHvyilaYvycGgeHUloHjekPtyW7haQV-_5_GJQwGm37tVciG8u68vwt3CNvNXa8/s320/P1010657.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5558325439792861906" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">I followed this up with a special Christmas concert in the Mall of the Emirates by an Australian singer playing to a house only about a third full—really shows the importance of Christmas here.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>After performing some broadway and jazz standards, the singer moved on to the Christmas canon with the help of a local choir and closed with a visit from Santa himself and artificial snow on stage.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">After these unexpected holiday discoveries, however, my Christmas experience quickly returned to the answer the expats had given—go to the malls.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Up until Christmas Eve, the only Christmas spirit I found was in the malls.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>The pictures below tell the tale:</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh5xszKu0yhc37paquOxhSDYfEG4w64atObRqJ12NsjJ-xSmK524jJW7iOw_x5bg5Q0ol6pymU0R6QGcxBGxSV985hE5HWl9YLWYe03rWk6ioZVdB_Pz7MZG6CKHCVuHf3rk-1U4Akr5w/s1600/P1020637.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmG77q_z4c22eCDv1XUO3cPqCyiBzEQ5O5zbWMrrK7vTyd-NHB-GPldlV9pVBR-XdQSopStRzJBMFDO5d_TBY_Z00xQ1MuK3A1Gi_6EwuuSZEfbOrpt_-I6ECOuRRI8Eg9xTGtaMR5hA4/s320/P1010631.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5558324888484472546" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></span></b></p><div><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh5xszKu0yhc37paquOxhSDYfEG4w64atObRqJ12NsjJ-xSmK524jJW7iOw_x5bg5Q0ol6pymU0R6QGcxBGxSV985hE5HWl9YLWYe03rWk6ioZVdB_Pz7MZG6CKHCVuHf3rk-1U4Akr5w/s1600/P1020637.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh5xszKu0yhc37paquOxhSDYfEG4w64atObRqJ12NsjJ-xSmK524jJW7iOw_x5bg5Q0ol6pymU0R6QGcxBGxSV985hE5HWl9YLWYe03rWk6ioZVdB_Pz7MZG6CKHCVuHf3rk-1U4Akr5w/s320/P1020637.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5558326215188125746" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRcB94RpRGK-qSSF8WA_qsfcNWmMZ82R0TMU8Y1rTqJ-1Z5Eo8FXgjoFNSFKKssfRZ4w04yD8rXFZzpaXgkDM9tZP9mIJNwIfVf2DLkTM6uHRR5BNYhmajb7HHhdAjr0-mfsNedIM_S-c/s1600/P1020626.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRcB94RpRGK-qSSF8WA_qsfcNWmMZ82R0TMU8Y1rTqJ-1Z5Eo8FXgjoFNSFKKssfRZ4w04yD8rXFZzpaXgkDM9tZP9mIJNwIfVf2DLkTM6uHRR5BNYhmajb7HHhdAjr0-mfsNedIM_S-c/s320/P1020626.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5558325455604990370" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1YQNOs31HBt-qywstZptzS4-M12DyjGYF4zqnl3HHWBNNk9XiTZGy4Kw7_CJHiuQtt30An6nw-rsTwX3fJV1SqL1-P_C32sNk0ULP_KpkKtWMj6SpkIsygjqWE_pBbhw_rr6HO-0BesM/s1600/P1020506.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1YQNOs31HBt-qywstZptzS4-M12DyjGYF4zqnl3HHWBNNk9XiTZGy4Kw7_CJHiuQtt30An6nw-rsTwX3fJV1SqL1-P_C32sNk0ULP_KpkKtWMj6SpkIsygjqWE_pBbhw_rr6HO-0BesM/s320/P1020506.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5558325453006117346" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF7kKWpmy-EDu4G5ICbAkeD3MWaknF73Lcd15185G7Kqp8PwLRnaGsfoYfOPvoyyn9ethFDSxqKSRuCb079ssbNsi5XOpka0Hn-iqiAbAZr25tckdZfxlRJDY_be3y9ZNMh5StF_ltdeM/s1600/P1020300.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF7kKWpmy-EDu4G5ICbAkeD3MWaknF73Lcd15185G7Kqp8PwLRnaGsfoYfOPvoyyn9ethFDSxqKSRuCb079ssbNsi5XOpka0Hn-iqiAbAZr25tckdZfxlRJDY_be3y9ZNMh5StF_ltdeM/s320/P1020300.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5558325453482742306" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXpTTVxYR4vF4D7DJlJHGeKkeMuZ8TE82DOhFou5JZsxSSyd9LTf-tjqa0F7x2hAMGLPfr2YT_RIHAVI0Lgp-Xby1PO7tuC0Tvgp9Yt4PUissXeueEUuHEhKTpNWjdsbvTONg0yqtuvLg/s1600/P1010658.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXpTTVxYR4vF4D7DJlJHGeKkeMuZ8TE82DOhFou5JZsxSSyd9LTf-tjqa0F7x2hAMGLPfr2YT_RIHAVI0Lgp-Xby1PO7tuC0Tvgp9Yt4PUissXeueEUuHEhKTpNWjdsbvTONg0yqtuvLg/s320/P1010658.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5558325442186864450" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></span></b></div><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkeTmKBEtmckrbnqAo9zJnR8TeEfBJ1sqkfpXGBroSUUKsiMomFEv3RNpaR7Alfi77QiwRkvpcbN0sNuzEsJ-7gWUXCjtUu20mdNIpoK4Mdm5l1jHuno4dqTQpNdCArmlZLpOT40Z7_pQ/s320/P1020652.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5558327017314732450" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></span></b></p><div><p class="MsoNormal">On Christmas Eve, I ventured out to make the best holiday I could beginning with lunch with two other Americans spending their first Christmas abroad as well.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Though our conversation was mostly about sustainability in Dubai, we took some time to reminisce about what we missed about being home.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>When I took my leave of them,<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>I caught a bus and then hiked a bit up to the Mall of the Emirates singing Christmas carols as I walked.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>With no one around to overhear or give me questioning looks (the sidewalks are usually pretty desolate in New Dubai), I was able emulate to the best of my limited ability the singers I knew would be emanating from the speakers at home were I there.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>When I arrived at the mall, I sought out the only place where you can actually feel winter in Dubai—Ski Dubai.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Now I know what you’re thinking—if I’m studying how to be “green” in Dubai, why seek out a place where the temperature is artificially kept below freezing when its halfway to boiling outside.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Well, at the urging of several friends at home and here, I figured that to understand sustainable I had better carefully examine the most unsustainable place perhaps ever built.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>And what better way to examine it than from the slopes, right?<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>(In actuality, I’m told the insulation on the building is really well done all things considering.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>They apparently have two thick layers of insulation separated by a large air gap which further insulates the environment.)</p></div><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvU4CuTH5PoCbqpOKyKFE9oLMXOA7lu560zxxf3TcrcyTjrIu11oaxrx-y2vWyG7XS1KHRuFIpL0mxoKZjwRNkD1A3qXRK9o0CYuZrcUrwRUbLbO1n8EB1h8Ih1oWypucgVxSHheB_qdA/s320/P1020651.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5558326233831947874" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal"></p><p class="MsoNormal">As I stood in line for my rental gear, I befriended a sailor on leave named Frank and he and I ended up spending the next two hours together chatting on the 8 minute ride up the chairlift and then racing each other down the 1 minute run on the only mountain.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>It was definitely fun and nice to get out into the snow, but I must say that I feel sorry for those who grow up with this as the only snow that they know.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Or perhaps I’m just spoiled by having been on real mountains.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">After my two hour slope session, I decided to recuperate just a bit back at my apartment.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>While Christmas Eve dinner is typically a big event back at my house, here I decided to follow the norm and tackle Christmas brunch instead.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>So my Christmas Eve dinner turned into a small feast of just what I could cook easily, vegetables, and two local dishes: dates and beans.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>The dates were a special selection as the believe here is that the Virgin Mary ate dates before she gave birth to Christ, so to mark this special occasion, I feasted on the same fruit.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>After all, this is the closest I’ve ever been to Bethlehem on Christmas so I had better have a traditional Christmas dinner, right?<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>To top off the feast, I indulged in a Chocolate Log Cake—another tradition that seems ubiquitous in the expat community here but which has never been important in my family.</p><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEqTZnqB0pu6HfsbNYuYjQJXeI7VeCdQcyjqEwfpGubaQIs6VhQdCnATUiellsN9EyqhbsLMQ4QZgCYWTSh6UlmMHQqfgta0KaSaUebwysRLoeXZnpATcJLfP_qjnK1JtbMQw8FyH8KOs/s320/P1020641.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5558326221905157698" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">After dinner, it was back to the Dubai Mall for more artificial Christmas spirit before heading to <a href="http://www.mcgettigansdubai.com/">McGettigan’s Pub</a> in the nearby Bonnington Hotel for a little Irish Christmas cheer.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Here I found a DJ spinning a mix of Christmas classics and today’s Top 40 and a room full of drunken expats ringing in Christmas.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Sitting next to another single gentleman, I had an Irish Christmas with a pint of Guinness and struck up a conversation.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>The night was so enjoyable, I ended staying until 2 when I wandered home and sat down to the only Christmas tradition I could easily preserve: watching Frank Capra’s “It’s a Wonderful Life” on Christmas Even night.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>(Thanks to whoever posted the movie in parts on Youtube—you really brightened Christmas for me!).</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Christmas Day itself was a mixture of Skype calls back home to “spend” Christmas Eve with my family, watching more Christmas movies on Youtube, and then heading out to Apres, the restaurant overlooking Ski Dubai for a little relaxation, reading, and Christmas brunch.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>There I found a nice collection of holiday favorites gracing the atmosphere and another unexpected touch of home—<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gluhwein">gluhwein</a>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>At my house around Christmas, gluhwein is a seasonal must (especially for my Dad) and though here the recipe was not the same (and more fortified), it was still a little taste of home for the holidays.</p><p class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5ct0e4Q0CZw81fXmzycgpVg4W5oDqFu6opna6RsTEtxuQsOvI7FhuD_TKzJT0vos_kp6JSz1ukMj11ajyDZnHSrBIrjLXGEdxdMbLoj-1n8dliePb9mcj8DJMyqMXIxGzo4vNFW5_Cwo/s1600/P1020646.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5ct0e4Q0CZw81fXmzycgpVg4W5oDqFu6opna6RsTEtxuQsOvI7FhuD_TKzJT0vos_kp6JSz1ukMj11ajyDZnHSrBIrjLXGEdxdMbLoj-1n8dliePb9mcj8DJMyqMXIxGzo4vNFW5_Cwo/s320/P1020646.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5558326228675141522" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrZ6zUDxjiX1bAcG1wb9Kr9UiKjIyK-AkYmwFANNTWhwXOgpRVqMVHWq07K7iExpN4oV9W9KnMKbiSbQVGpz1TO_YpaipQvUEqqceLmycH86Tq2OMh5pr_jwP_1ZKuB4RktrEKFSMGSXo/s1600/P1020645.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrZ6zUDxjiX1bAcG1wb9Kr9UiKjIyK-AkYmwFANNTWhwXOgpRVqMVHWq07K7iExpN4oV9W9KnMKbiSbQVGpz1TO_YpaipQvUEqqceLmycH86Tq2OMh5pr_jwP_1ZKuB4RktrEKFSMGSXo/s320/P1020645.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5558326223932586466" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal">After wandering the mall a bit, I called it an early day to head home, watch more movies and call home again on Christmas morning to watch the family open stockings and gifts, including those I had, through the wonders of Amazon and the globalized economy, sent.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"></p><p class="MsoNormal">I suppose that the moral of this story is (because every Christmas tale must have a moral) that you can find Christmas anywhere, even in the desert sands of the Middle East.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Thanks to the wonders of the internet and the company of other holiday homesick expats, even a lonely traveler can find a Merry Christmas in Dubai.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight:normal"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal">New Year’s Eve</i></b><br />Now if there is any holiday I figure would be best to be in Dubai for, it is New Year’s Eve.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>I figured that with all of the money, luxury, and care taken to make this city world class that New Year’s would be no exception.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Well, that may well be true, but I found quickly that the other rule about New Year’s Eve in Dubai is that it is very expensive.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Many clubs and parties were at least 300 AED (about 80 USD) and any that also included beverages were 500 AED or more, sometimes reaching 1000 AED (300 USD).<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Of all of these options, I settled on an evening at the Address Hotel in Downtown Dubai for a mere 125 AED where I also would have the chance to be spared the crowds around Burj Khalifa for the first fireworks show for New Year’s in the building’s history.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>What I head is that New York has Times Square, London has Trafalgar, Paris the Eiffel Tower, Sydney the harbor, and now Dubai will have the Burj as its big New Year’s celebration.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>With high hopes and an article about the 20 minute show they had planned, I headed by Metro to the site.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Well, the first thing I learned is that Dubai for all of its luxury still has yet to master the art of mass crowd movement.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Getting out of the metro station took half an hour simply because they gates do not scan cards quickly enough to let people out at a significant rate.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>That should have been a warning to me for the return trip, but more on that later.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>When I finally did get out, I fought the throngs of people in and around the Dubai Mall jockeying for a spot around the fountains to watch the show which was still 3 hours away.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Fighting through to the hotel, I arrived up at the bar and grabbed a drink to get the night started.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Hanging around on the outdoor terrace, I made friends with a couple from Palestine and China by way of the US and two other gentlemen from Irvine, CA, of all places.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>As the midnight hour drew near, we all squeezed into the corner of the terrace with the best view and prepared for the show.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>The result was pretty spectacular as the pictures below hopefully demonstrate.</p><p></p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnViULLAYEzJ3pYnL-bfAQnexyhdDe5vmbTJ5tA7A_qw-G8J2eCp6qYHyB2gFamALOAVcOAcC31gIJRUvEM2ZH_0LwwwaezTKY9mCkdrizj1S3B258wvDTffDjNGKHxsj8m9YtH7VlBPM/s1600/P1020796.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnViULLAYEzJ3pYnL-bfAQnexyhdDe5vmbTJ5tA7A_qw-G8J2eCp6qYHyB2gFamALOAVcOAcC31gIJRUvEM2ZH_0LwwwaezTKY9mCkdrizj1S3B258wvDTffDjNGKHxsj8m9YtH7VlBPM/s320/P1020796.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5558327038080562290" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyHw6lotBE4TSTGWIcXVqvHeZ4am2u7nO5dPnn-3t0kOw6iMumARsEMFqjFF0FbgzC3YJTsjGRMRE4y9YwGnbTpcoWcu_9RR5ynggbsvNf9OEkbKw71Ru3xmr_0rx9dfjPf6HPbxvId1k/s1600/P1020794.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyHw6lotBE4TSTGWIcXVqvHeZ4am2u7nO5dPnn-3t0kOw6iMumARsEMFqjFF0FbgzC3YJTsjGRMRE4y9YwGnbTpcoWcu_9RR5ynggbsvNf9OEkbKw71Ru3xmr_0rx9dfjPf6HPbxvId1k/s320/P1020794.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5558327029510238530" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></span></span></b></p><div><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyHw6lotBE4TSTGWIcXVqvHeZ4am2u7nO5dPnn-3t0kOw6iMumARsEMFqjFF0FbgzC3YJTsjGRMRE4y9YwGnbTpcoWcu_9RR5ynggbsvNf9OEkbKw71Ru3xmr_0rx9dfjPf6HPbxvId1k/s1600/P1020794.JPG"></a></span><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrXnrJWrir7vKb0XaYYuathNIcUedTZgj4QNdnZ8c1w4QdcGkzyJCmx3bh4hXECE3OA5IjK2Q4k6AGD3qACgi7h_c_Ypps0ZfVfhuRVBirATwckE8E8-Xi0IpCtNfwPT3TclxFQNOm_6M/s320/P1020805.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5558327039314400546" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></span></b></div><div><p class="MsoNormal">The show began (and mostly consisted of) a coordinated show of fire and water in the fountain area culminating in several minutes of fireworks shooting off from the side of Burj Khalifa and out of cannons lining the entire height of the building.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>The whole structure bathed in the trails of the fireworks was an awesome sight and well worth the crowds and wait.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Afterwards, cheers of “Happy New Year” rang throughout the bar, but unfortunately there was no Auld Lang Syne.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>The party itself kept going though and the house music returned.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>The whole atmosphere was great—relaxed and friendly with some dancing, many talking, and plenty of people around my age hanging out and having a good time.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>So, after hanging around with my two new California buddies for a while longer, I left the bar to head home.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">As I said, I should have learned from my experience entering the mall that it would be hectic to get out, but I figured that leaving an hour before the last Metro train would be enough.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>After fighting through the crowds of pedestrians still leaving and the gridlocked traffic, I arrived at the Metro station only to see the line extending out the door and around the corner.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Hopping in with half an hour before the last train, I quickly sized up the line and figured it couldn’t be more than 4 trains long.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>That should be plenty, I thought.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Well, 45 minutes later I had moved about 20 feet forward in line.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>The problem as nearly as I could tell was that there was as second line for “families” which meant if you were accompanied by any child of any age or any woman of any age, you qualified for the family line.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Basically I was in the bachelor line which couldn’t move until the family line was empty.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Finally at 3:30 in the morning, they let us all in at once saying we needed to hurry because the last train was leaving soon.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Hustling inside, I found myself suddenly stopped again in another line that stretched across the bridge over Sheikh Zayed Road and back.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>I waited here again though it moved more quickly and finally by 3:45 was near the stand to swipe my card and board.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>When I finally got on the train, I realized a big flaw in the whole plan—the scanner did not allow people into the station quickly enough to even fill the trains—I’ve seen them busier in rush hour!<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Basically, waiting for the card to be read takes so long that the trains were not filled to standing capacity and thus they had to run them over two hours longer than planned just to clear the backlog from Burj Khalifa.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>At 4:20 I finally disembarked and headed home, thus ending my New Year’s Eve adventure.</p></div><p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4ca9afqdp8wbrrnWdpEVUX4sfY_Hsl3mJ4nTNtZHkSIwBRAlCCxSC49d4AZZrcf9K6bMNelMnFac819C-VKxLHvKcJAHPQHaDo7ftBTsCGQq041LcLkMNbe7gG8ToE-rCRivEY4zvgRA/s320/P1020783.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5558327017604164626" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></p>Rob Besthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09463964785697202357noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9070652898233554429.post-50000519979462682172010-12-23T13:32:00.000-08:002010-12-23T14:06:36.554-08:00The Dichotomy That is Dubai<div style="text-align: left;">Well, for all of you who have stuck with me through my last few posts about China in eager anticipation of some words about Dubai (especially those who know I have been here for a month and a half now), I am pleased finally to satisfy your desires.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>It’s been an interesting couple of months for me since leaving China simply because my research activities were slow to get moving in this city due to difficulties finding housing, a series of holidays, and a general lack of good internet connectivity at the end of my trip in China and the beginning of my stay in Dubai.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>But, rather than waste the days deploring my situation, I instead seized the opportunity to learn about my surroundings and try to get to know this new city through exploration.</div> <p class="MsoNormal">Dubai is really divided into two sections: old and new.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Old Dubai encompasses the areas on both shores along the mouth of Dubai Creek called Deira and Bur Dubai.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>New Dubai then takes over further down the coast from Bur Dubai near the world trade center and stretches about 30 km along the beach to the Jebel Ali Free Trade Zone, passing through Jumeirah, Downtown Dubai (a moniker that was decided upon by the planners and Emaar, the developer, despite it not at the moment really being a downtown area), and Dubai Marina among other districts.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>New Dubai can also be thought to encompass all of the inland development that stretches from the ocean through villas and “satellite cities” into the desert.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Really, at least in my mind, the distinction is made by what developed from the older society, roughly pre-1970, and what was the result of the vision of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rashid_bin_Saeed_Al_Maktoum">Sheikh Rashid bin Saeed al Maktoum</a>.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>To orient you a bit with the city, below are some pictures of the various areas in Dubai (at least the ones I’ve visited so far).</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="http://www.cityscapeglobal.com/PDF/maps/maps-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 420px; height: 297px; " /></span></b></p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFrCIlDsql_tGyF1aI-CMG5nQpFnz-F6dv1tILTs0-s9Ah1URJE30xGYuid0yWd5UAvPNue8vxZnCjBxhgmMKKUSxeKeqELaJUZceJ_Vk8GNQneHfdoSSPqF7Ue0wZJBCxp8_LpwDyHUc/s320/96+Deira+Across+Deira+Creek.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553999483770037490" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center">Deira</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIXMxAMiG8KDFuEA8V0hsgW97tr3LX7PE239b4njkE3L-GtG4P4yQokaq4AvNplaxmnDGLDy4bvwHI-lIRzma2tu7rjYsmoWZAYwW_7fqNeZZA6WC3ztFumxjWroN479EjySGM7-KetSQ/s320/501+Bastakia+Quarter+in+Bur+Dubai.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553999481787374018" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center">Bur Dubai</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD5ysaJhNyzDSf_VftG2JTqgYZ5oSVogsrbxunx3mOFJojLm5qgfmycdUD0kKds6RBQUsa5rtXlUdQ8gsVDEh2KsiCn6XPB5bXnYwaJ_oTS9Pm_Ged48uJnOreG1ViZajR4aNIHrErjNs/s320/488+The+World+Trade+Center+and+Etisalat+Tower.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553999488292163890" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center">Trade Center</p> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfJH8EFDolmYWcM_mEdjvx-m3cxXmIYxe-nlLvIl2dtuc6H5YYWI0aT84Oee323G2ZUZpc7h5SO8_ALgRk5p-yY4K04lciOrEXUby7Pg17LYfMrJnGfX3D509W_qjzsH_q_r53SLrPXck/s320/475+Sunset+Over+Emirates+Towers+and+Downtown+Dubai.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553999490662626978" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></span><div><div style="text-align: center;">Financial Center/Emirates Towers</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5wEpHnFFeeR07dKC7pv85EaCPXei6MmXHR-9NhUabo4_s_5ESXdK3WUByLCIJ1Kkm8gOsSHjMAxeT-EaR0UGgSZ0rC9u2W0UbyEDQORlPhEVZ1BPodL_R3ezsLzzU9i8P71sd8Jw9-T0/s320/P1010277.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553999496446385602" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></span></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2nZCEET9WM-Dggc_fRBaueOeLv7jjQoKi3ZqDs0ont-nGZ36FffObXIp9GeivCMVKWuO1O10G1WyjLDCQ1P5Pa_HGHKNgsJSv2qTtva13_raPKognjUPPyEJfmEJEu8jaShd_s4wBJjQ/s320/P1010282.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553999893073814066" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></div><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center">Downtown Dubai</p> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeewl8z-t7zqIB_Ec5jtLjAr3VbCUdFtYz2qLZcuUnVDlfRaIwzrCtGrnCI6X1ljp8B2Zm0AUkpd0g0z5ZqlXKDBMvwE7qljJYGWpw2DlS3RfaxH_p3-irM0R51gz-5wmBtAYfJTb4Hv0/s320/P1010442.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553999893433809586" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></div><div><div style="text-align: center;">Jumeirah</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFty7-nTHvncgOJnsbDo7CysJLCh8x3rgwc8_TY_9ROKz17Wb5fTAmXGL_28-14CJlRWSzTbhHN6UAAO9NkyUauSmPz-fHewXIszzHcZld5dRYW58_63BN2W5lKm6qOX1o3MzEpKmwrmA/s320/428+Dubai+Internet+City.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553999899286716738" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></div><div><div style="text-align: center;">Dubai Internet City</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidXuDWc3JBJonVjIKrYMJtAlwxvbbwdSKS0aj7C1Lm3P4GkIJthqFaUjkJdyDD9nq-a5o1dHwtnYZEsP3viGarbNu4g6tMC6HOnbqCmsUMuxA5BaiTesPoVH02kpd3HCwO-GEenkEASfY/s1600/419+Dubai+Marina+at+Night.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidXuDWc3JBJonVjIKrYMJtAlwxvbbwdSKS0aj7C1Lm3P4GkIJthqFaUjkJdyDD9nq-a5o1dHwtnYZEsP3viGarbNu4g6tMC6HOnbqCmsUMuxA5BaiTesPoVH02kpd3HCwO-GEenkEASfY/s320/419+Dubai+Marina+at+Night.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553999906770752690" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 133px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQd7VPHmK2AmXAFJIlNKsoXg6Psrc3oG-619g7mZ0ErT9f3hoJsXZSPeA0ZLz8oXcK2ey7BlEgK4KNlOWzlm97ycU8DkS7_oUQkeNyxT0G9zmqhz4BL3BFC7xhozw-BBvko75JSMV3sLw/s1600/352+Jumeirah+Beach+Residence.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQd7VPHmK2AmXAFJIlNKsoXg6Psrc3oG-619g7mZ0ErT9f3hoJsXZSPeA0ZLz8oXcK2ey7BlEgK4KNlOWzlm97ycU8DkS7_oUQkeNyxT0G9zmqhz4BL3BFC7xhozw-BBvko75JSMV3sLw/s320/352+Jumeirah+Beach+Residence.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553999906015076066" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 46px; " /></a></div><div><div style="text-align: center;">Jumeirah Beach Road/Dubai Marina</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggalEnUr7ZtEYCLwsX77zPbZkAHET1sQczOxX_WqeEVuYZUKmKcYhBCsVO-oArflozTbwCUqJiJXDJn3ISk1-nhPVu90npajTlwGgbphSV17NgsKI06T0mrmP8Dmzvs59jIKNXc3G4Lcs/s320/266+Jumeirah+Lakes+Towers+from+My+Balcony.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5554000317144523410" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 137px; " /></span></div><div><div style="text-align: center;">Jumeirah Lakes Towers</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7fGJvwmUm2K-yJIZl-GfU4UtXZPCLuYTKt_iiVrhUWeCnxC7uRDegwRKc5zfwcQL1W0OiaSYwSv7Weewb5qYw-aBwwiXF1JpOQVNTwkPG64Vz6M7CAAk3fijvLuZCL4jl3ZBYdBAbl8Q/s320/P1010649.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5554000315478810434" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></div><div><div style="text-align: center;">Dubai Festival City</div> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align: left;">My exploration of Dubai began in Deira and old Dubai with only brief introductions to new Dubai as I hunted for housing further down the coast at the suggestion of a friend.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>My hostel was on the wrong side of the airport, meaning that it was a 45 minute walk along a relatively industrial stretch of road (read: no stores or services to entertain my eyes or provide respite from the heat on the walk) to get to the heart of Deira, but once there it was worth the walk.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Here I found a vibrant city full of narrow streets, short blocks and bustling with activity, at least in the evening once people were off work.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Around every corner are curbside restaurants, shops with proprietors trying their best to draw you in to purchase odds and ends, and, most importantly, cultural relics.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>This part of the city is a relatively dense network which evolved out of necessity during the 1800s and early 1900s as Dubai, previously a small fishing village, faced a growing population with the discovery of first pearls and then oil and diversification of the economy away from fishing and <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dhow">dhow</a> trading.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>It is in Deira that you find many of the old souqs, now transformed to attract tourists more than locals but reminiscent of the old days nonetheless, the dhow wharfage, and a few scattered cultural houses and buildings to stop and learn about the history of Dubai before the boom.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggwX4V_R5TjCTtju-XgzyLpe1rDSJyDUUVSn5-ssGoDEMdl7vX9HFDzU0H0yDg83-kQyz1d1UyqRbwTPtFpdN8Mm7Wz86y9AulwdR2UAK6Ybnik7VGuoUhl3cHXH8Cq1jx3CJfsdn_QqY/s320/610+Deira+Clock+Tower+and+Burj+Khalifa+at+Sunset.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5554000322738315058" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Across the creek in Bur Dubai, the story is much the same.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Here resides the Grand Mosque, the Bur Dubai souq, and the Dubai museum which is worth a trip even if you are staying at the glamorous hotels down Jumeirah Beach way.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Interesting architectural relics and traditional buildings litter parts of the city, but I will save a discussion of these for another post, here focusing instead on the character of the city.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-lB0dX9ZbjV6NfzCF7YX1nSwpiTidf0JvIUsv5LCOZakDURBlCdqucNn66oEiTGmQ96cA0nvxeT1GqCIjdoB53LY4CpNyTpvyDqetOxHmx8Y95FNRxb3tDe4nBudl3Ov3EbA6LiG4-MM/s1600/512+Bastakia+Quarter+in+Bur+Dubai.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-lB0dX9ZbjV6NfzCF7YX1nSwpiTidf0JvIUsv5LCOZakDURBlCdqucNn66oEiTGmQ96cA0nvxeT1GqCIjdoB53LY4CpNyTpvyDqetOxHmx8Y95FNRxb3tDe4nBudl3Ov3EbA6LiG4-MM/s320/512+Bastakia+Quarter+in+Bur+Dubai.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5554000324392258898" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE0hlfSLHgLYFLk39Maj_l6pvTaX_Nh9IKxQvQ7hKYyjn2MJ6vX4La7V-t-tmdPhMdSwpwrou9FMa9eKKjzwzx0zNzmr6zLYJaUwG-8WykrZb4oQWad2VeNHDPnG9Juvqrxpv4kBbXrO4/s1600/499+Bur+Dubai.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE0hlfSLHgLYFLk39Maj_l6pvTaX_Nh9IKxQvQ7hKYyjn2MJ6vX4La7V-t-tmdPhMdSwpwrou9FMa9eKKjzwzx0zNzmr6zLYJaUwG-8WykrZb4oQWad2VeNHDPnG9Juvqrxpv4kBbXrO4/s320/499+Bur+Dubai.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5554000324899281458" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></a></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Until you travel far enough down the coast to reach the site of the World Trade Center, you are surrounded by a city environment that encourages walking and bus transit.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Its narrow streets run one lane in each direction and are prone to traffic without many cars meaning that it is often easier to walk to your destination than to drive.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>All of the shops and restaurants under the hotels and apartments above also entice you to walk if only to window-shop and admire the gold, spices, and other goods brought up the creek from Iran, Oman, and other points unknown.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>However once you hit the Za’abeel Roundabout, Za’abeel Street and Al Dhiyafah Street form a line in the sand (literally) that marks the end of this pedestrian paradise and the beginning of the new mode of planning in Dubai characterized by the car.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Continuing roughly west you come now to the dominion of Sheikh Zayed Road—the dominant feature of the Dubai landscape for the next 30 km until the city fades back into the sands en route to Abu Dhabi.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Here the city developed in a line sporadically over the economic boom of the last couple of decades.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>The highway served the purpose of allowing development to occur, but as such it runs right down the heart of the community dividing it in two.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Before the Metro, there was no way to cross from one side to the other without driving along the highway to the next off ramp and making a U-turn.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>If you lived on the wrong side, you needed a car to get across.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Off the road there are some nice communities—one of my favorites is the Jumeirah Beach Residences.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi180YXHgoUlRXdsocyj42LDTgkggJMxRyM-AGRu0CspyqXC2bWYO5RFTqR-2bByRXiadHA6LJ1oK85q2arHCSuaKILcVP4fEoMRb3JGIAPwhOUs0poKsDTtf-DMbvoVR2Vzhjvjmq07vQ/s1600/400+The+Walk+at+Jumeirah+Beach+Residence.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi180YXHgoUlRXdsocyj42LDTgkggJMxRyM-AGRu0CspyqXC2bWYO5RFTqR-2bByRXiadHA6LJ1oK85q2arHCSuaKILcVP4fEoMRb3JGIAPwhOUs0poKsDTtf-DMbvoVR2Vzhjvjmq07vQ/s320/400+The+Walk+at+Jumeirah+Beach+Residence.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5554000673703839906" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAoP8IQ7UADvhhMa3t5KFwSZC0Nd_XxNq50oXvlbyzTuicfEIXrBkfkfOY2wTeDisLgych53dfzgVgO85mIMJ6gsFXsQMfI3ShB9xcehaqkdpdjMzoQMs3rCX03y-SSiMF7CrIh_wnQn0/s1600/397+The+Walk+at+Jumeirah+Beach+Residence.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAoP8IQ7UADvhhMa3t5KFwSZC0Nd_XxNq50oXvlbyzTuicfEIXrBkfkfOY2wTeDisLgych53dfzgVgO85mIMJ6gsFXsQMfI3ShB9xcehaqkdpdjMzoQMs3rCX03y-SSiMF7CrIh_wnQn0/s320/397+The+Walk+at+Jumeirah+Beach+Residence.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5554000666543019906" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">These satellite communities all developed in master-planned communities by the large developers here and so have fairly good services within them for residents but often lack complete mixed-use functions.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>For example, where I live in Jumeirah Lakes Towers has grocery stores and takeout food as well as a hotel, but no real source of entertainment.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>I have to go across to Dubai Marina or JBR to get those.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>With the Metro crossing, that’s only a 20 minute walk, but before I imagine it would have been a hassle just to go out for the evening.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Since these communities developed as master planned “cities” (most of them have “city” in their name too), they have little connectivity between them with highways often running off of Sheikh Zayed Road right between two adjacent satellite communities.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Let me illustrate what I mean by this and how disruptive it can be. <span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>One of my first days in my new apartment, I needed to make a run over to Fedex/Kinko’s to get some business cards printed up.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>I looked at the Google Map for the area (it won’t give walking routes here because it doesn’t know where the sidewalks are—sometimes there aren’t any on streets here) and it didn’t seem too far, perhaps only about 45 minutes on foot.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Armed with my iPod, I set out, navigating through the Marina and over to Dubai Internet City, a collection of high-tech companies clustered around a picturesque lake.</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8PjFdjmjm6cM8huMxB7KWJdOgRP7hChDi0Xrqzzxs6ZL3RUhA-6pISGlR4W8auedQ7bwjYgCVlRg7KejH9mATI6qnIjwHiXZ0XYnb3w840oNZjtfs1vxrfxjx7i4_LJ-XI70a1Y3Sv0Y/s320/430+Dubai+Internet+City.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5554000671775302114" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">My destination was in Dubai Internet City, so I began scouring the buildings for the store.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>There were 8 buildings around the lake, and luckily in one I found a map of where all the companies in the whole compound were.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>To my dismay, Fedex/Kinko’s was in Building 12, in “Phase II” of the development which was clustered around a separate lake further away.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>I set out on foot once more only to find my path obstructed by a 4 lane one-way road and an elevated highway to the Palm Jumeirah that sat on a solid concrete foundation breached only for a vehicle tunnel.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>I walked along the road up and down to see if there was any pedestrian crossing but, finding none, turned back.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>This time I looked for the bus stops.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>I figured that the buses at least had to go through, but after examining the signs on 4 different stops, I found no bus that crossed the highway.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Here I had encountered a seemingly unconquerable obstruction for pedestrians.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Returning to the tunnel, I spied a small access way running the length of the road no wider than my body plus the curb.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Figuring it was my only chance to get across, I waited for traffic to subside before dashing across all 4 lanes to the access way as it branched off with the tunnel from the main road.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Hurrying along both for fear of an errant driver and the police (I still question the legality of my passage) I quickly found myself at the end of the access way out of the tunnel at the confluence of my road with another 4 lane off-ramp from the highway out to the Palm.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Waiting again for a suitable gap, I dashed across the highway to the narrow sidewalk/access path on the other side and hustled to the safety of the greenbelt just a bit ahead.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>As I made this final dash for the grass (after crossing the road), a police car whizzed by me at about 60 km/hour and though he undoubtedly noticed me and may have wished to cite me for my crossing, the silver lining of these roads is that he, like everyone else, had to go far ahead just to turn around and see if he could find me (had he wanted to).<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>I don’t know if he tried because I was soon safely tucked away inside Fedex/Kinko’s.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">That may give you a bit of an idea about what the city of Dubai actually is.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>I’ll hope to provide a few more insights about it through the rest of my posts and try to dispel the common vision that it is all glamorous five-star resorts (or in the claims of Jumeirah, 7-star for <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burj_al_arab">Burj Al Arab</a>) and a life of luxury and living the high life.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>There is more to this city and though I may complain from time to time about Sheikh Zayed Road and the difficult of moving around, I have enjoyed it here.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>However the areas I enjoy most are those that are perhaps least frequented by tourists.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Another foreigner, a British woman who has lived here for 5 years, shared my sentiments when we chatted about it, as do most of the architects with whom I meet.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>The times I have enjoyed most (aside from the occasional evening repose on the beach near my apartment) have been wandering the narrow streets of Deira and Bur Dubai.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Here the city is alive with people moving about.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Cars are few and pedestrians dominate with casual street interactions livening up the evening.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Yet since this is the old part of town, many Westerners avoid it and even scorn it.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>One expat my second day snorted at what he called “Dirty Deira” when I mentioned I was staying there.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>He claimed it was filthy and reeked of curry from its predominantly Indian and Pakistani population.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>In his sentiments, the dichotomy of Dubai exists very clearly.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">During the boom, many Westerners moved to the new areas.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>They were only here to make some money, have some fun, and leave, or were part of new companies popping up in the cities along Sheikh Zayed.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>With the salaries that Westerners command here for their knowledge and expertise (along with a bit of a racist or discriminatory atmosphere toward those from the subcontinent), they could afford cars and apartments in new, modern buildings.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>The older part of Dubai which was already crowded and visibly aged compared with the new areas was left to the more stable but poorer population that provides the city’s services.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Seemingly unseen by the locals, the predominantly Indian, Pakistani, and Pilipino populations that cook, clean, and run every store in town strengthened their foothold in Deira and Bur Dubai.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>This became the lower rent district and for those who could not afford cars provided everything necessary within a convenient walking distance.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>The result is that today even after property prices have dropped across the city, there is a lingering imaginary line that divides where the “service population,” if you will, lives and where the upper management population lives.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>For the most part, you won’t find too many Westerners in Deira, Bur Dubai, Karama, and Satwa, but you will find a lot of great, affordable Indian food!</p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtGMDluOvSJRtTJDOwd5bt8WS8A0Kqi9YOqu8jig2wmvCKVCcBvAJYSa5hRR2JPK7vHgGjaW4DiGCCO7wAOR4GQInuezRjBuHHTGD7NVKxvRcNhh8EZ9v0rSs7ZK_qz0O2h-AO1neBQj0/s1600/191+Indian+Food.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtGMDluOvSJRtTJDOwd5bt8WS8A0Kqi9YOqu8jig2wmvCKVCcBvAJYSa5hRR2JPK7vHgGjaW4DiGCCO7wAOR4GQInuezRjBuHHTGD7NVKxvRcNhh8EZ9v0rSs7ZK_qz0O2h-AO1neBQj0/s320/191+Indian+Food.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5554000677206736994" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></span></b></p><div style="text-align: left;">The prejudice and social divide between these two populations surprised me when I first arrived in the city and still perplexes me.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>I suppose it stems in some ways from the rapid rise of Dubai as an internationally acclaimed finance and retail center.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Given the proximity of India and Pakistan and their economic statuses relative to the UAE, it makes sense that when cheap labor was needed it would come from these sources—to them it is a way to make a living and send money home to their families.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>However what is strange to me is not that there would be a market for cheap labor and a supply to satisfy it but rather that for a country that values its privacy, there is little discretion at times concerning the actions of these individuals.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>I feel at times when the restroom attendants, for example, are waiting idly to clean the sink immediately after I leave that I am being watched—it is not a feeling I get from restroom attendants in five star resorts elsewhere.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>This leads me to suspect, and I could be wrong, that there is almost a quality among locals that these groups are unseen—locals don’t feel watched because they don’t consider the man near them as their equal.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>As further proof, I was told by a Pakistani gentleman whom I befriended that in this country, a Westerner and a Pakistani doing the same job with the same qualifications will not be given equal pay or promotion opportunities.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>For a country that professes to be sensitive to all nations and their cultures, this seems strange.*</div><p></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Going back a minute to the idea of Deira and Bur Dubai being abandoned by the Western population: there is an additional irony in some ways to this abandonment.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>According to those with whom I have met, the buildings in Deira and Bur Dubai, those which appear on the surface to be old, are most likely better quality, more efficient buildings than the ones in New Dubai.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Looking at the opulence of the new spaces, it might sound crazy—if they are shiny and always clean, how can they be poor quality?—but it may well be true.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>As one architect told me, though Deira may look a bit “long in the tooth,” the buildings underneath are actually built better and more efficient than those in New Dubai.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Now that’s not to say that all buildings in New Dubai are all bad by any means.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>However, the buildings in old Dubai were built with a lot of local knowledge in the time before air conditioners were widespread and as a result are reasonably comfortable without the A/C.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>On the other hand, when things were put up so quickly in the boom they sought to emulate Western buildings without really appropriating the methods and technology properly.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>As a result, there is a higher probability that a new building will be low quality than the old buildings.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>So in the end, in the name of modern appearance and supposed high quality, the properties that garnered the most money were actually the poorer quality buildings.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">These things combined to provide an interesting set of impressions of my new city which are constantly being altered and improved.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>I hope over the next few weeks as I finish my stint in Dubai I will get to share more of my thoughts both on the city and its character, its satellite areas, and its sustainable features.</p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal">*This claim was made by the Emirati leading my tour at the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi, one of the premier tourist attractions in the city.</p></div>Rob Besthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09463964785697202357noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9070652898233554429.post-28796910849551764602010-12-19T09:27:00.001-08:002010-12-19T09:28:09.350-08:00A Tale of Four Cities: Epilogue<p class="MsoNormal">The four case studies I’ve highlighted in the preceding posts have hopefully elucidated some of the considerations, stumbling blocks, and strategies for eco-cities.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>By comparing the diverse range of social, economic, climatic, and even political situations in Dongtan, Tangshan, Huangbaiyu, and Tianjin, several questions come to mind that are important for understanding and framing the future of eco-cities in China and in a broader global context.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Perhaps the most obvious question that comes to mind is the most difficult to answer—what is truly the definition of an eco-city?<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Through these four cases, we’ve seen a model village of homes and a single factory intended to provide lodging and employment for rural villagers, a city among an ecological wetland designed to minimize its environmental footprint, another built on industrial infrastructure that is unique to its area, and a city striving to be better than business-as-usual but by no means perfect.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>The targets adopted by these cities range from the optimistic zero energy, zero carbon taglines of Dongtan to the more modest 20% renewable energy and minimized waste and water of Tianjin.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Comparing just the plans of these two, one would find it hard to call Tianjin an eco-city—its modest goals pale in comparison to Arup’s ecological vision for the south.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Inherently an eco-city should be sustainable which, at its root, means that it should within its confines provide all that it needs without unduly damaging the environment, economy, or social structure.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>However to create such a city, perhaps the Tianjin model is more appropriate.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>It certainly seems to better create a social structure that adequately represents a cross-section of the population than the potentially pricier zero-carbon model.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>This could give it a stronger foundation for achieving a completely sustainable future socially, but certainly would take more time to achieve the environmental goals.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Yet this longer time would allow the city to grow organically with technological developments, ultimately achieving the ecological targets of Dongtan with a lower overall cost.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Economically, perhaps this is the most sustainable city model too.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Yet perhaps one could argue that by not addressing the ecological footprint immediately, externalities caused by the city’s pollution would contribute to it being higher cost in the end—I don’t know these magnitudes and so can’t comment.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>I merely suggest the idea to stimulate thought and discussion.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Ultimately I think the conclusion on this question is that while an eco-city is by the book a sustainable city, in reality it can take many forms, each of which must be adapted to the local context.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>To create a cookie cutter eco-city is blatantly in opposition of the spirit of the concept.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>If these four case studies teach anything, it is that the concept of an eco-city must be adapted to the local surroundings.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>In Huangbaiyu, the model village that was built was scorned by the villagers whereas in another context it may have been welcomed.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Caofeidian’s plan could not survive without the heat and cooling provided by the surrounding industrial infrastructure—without this it would not achieve many of its KPIs.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>When creating an eco-city, you must start from a local definition of the place, the culture, the climate, and anything else that is site-specific.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Only then can you incorporate all necessary factors to have an outcome that is socially, economically, environmentally, and politically sustainable.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The other question that comes to mind with these eco-cities is how they will affect the future of China’s development.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>When discussing Tianjin, I mentioned that one of the biggest factors affecting development of the Binhai area was the current economic thrust.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>No matter what environmental goals the nation adopts, it still has a long way to go until economics are no longer king.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>The government’s strategy is focused on economic growth and that is still the primary metric by which officials are measured.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>If sustainable cities are to advance beyond small pilots and mere rhetoric to become the norm for development, it will take a lot more advancement of environmentalism in the consciousness of local officials.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>There is growing awareness of the importance of environmental issues among the highest levels of government, but unfortunately that has yet to filter down to regional and city authorities.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Furthermore, one of the lessons I stressed most in these four case studies was the need for buy-in at multiple levels of governance and across many sectors.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Yet this requires a large number of private actors including companies and the general public to be aware of sustainability and demand “greener” cities.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>From my interviews, it seems that China still has yet to meet this requirement for widespread ecological development.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>While many believe that the government has the power to implement sustainable measures with just a decree, unless there is buy-in from the local officials, companies, government workers, and the general public, these large projects could easily fall apart as was the case outside of Shanghai.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>So in short, despite these model cities being planned across the country, there are still a lot of factors that have to fall into place before we can expect to see widespread adoption of sustainable cities.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">That said, these cities are a step in the right direction for China and the rest of the world.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>They bring attention to the issues surrounding urban sustainability and the challenges with achieving them.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Rather than being dismayed at the lack of success in Dongtan and Huangbaiyu, these cases provide opportunities to learn what went wrong and take measures to avoid the same downfalls in the future.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>With more sustainable city projects popping up worldwide from Europe to India, Brazil to the Middle East, we need to learn from the past attempts and from projects across the globe if we are to make any progress toward the ultimate goal of an ecological society.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>It’s easy to be negative when a project fails, but it’s better to learn and move forward.</p>Rob Besthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09463964785697202357noreply@blogger.com1