Shades of Shanghai, Part 3: Raindrops on Roses

This is (I promise) the last of the three part "Shades of Shanghai" post. The previous two talked about the old and new parts of Shanghai and some of the sustainability challenges I have come across in my exploration of them. This focuses instead on some thoughts and impressions of Shanghai. For those who may have gotten excited when reading the title, this is not about botany or Julie Andrews musicals, but instead about My Favorite (and Least Favorite) Things. Frankly, I hadn't given much thought to what I like most about China until the question was asked of me by a good friend a couple of weeks back. After thinking about it more, I thought I'd share some of the highlights.

So let's start with the good:

1. Walkability

After growing up in Los Angeles, the car capital of the world, it is refreshing to live in a city where it is easy and safe to walk everywhere that your feet can take you. Personally, I enjoy spending the hour to get to the French Concession or the Bund when I have meetings in those parts of town. It allows me to see more of the city, and especially the parts that aren't frequented by tourists trying to take my picture (more on that later). And when the distance is just too far...

2. Great Public Transit

The Metro here will take you just about anywhere you need to go for less than US$1. It is fast, on-time, and cleaner than any other light rail or subway I've ever traveled. Just avoid rush hour if you can unless you like being packed like a sardine in a car to the point where you have to surge with the masses into and out of the cars and hope that enough of the mass is leaving at your stop that you can squeeze your way out of the car. But hey, if you're an optimist and environmentalist like me, just take this as a sign that public transit is alive and well here and that each person that pushes you toward the corner of the train is one less person riding someone's bumper on the highway.

3. Food

If there is one thing I've learned here it is to trust the Lonely Planet on matters of food. If it says to try a restaurant, do it. every time I've taken it's advice it's been right on. So far, my top three are:

Louweilou, Hangzhou

Braised pork chunks featuring everything from the meat through the fat up to the skin in a unique sauce served only in Hanghzou are the highlight at this restaurant overlooking West Lake. I had it with rice and pumpkin and it was absolutely delicious. The meat just melted in my mouth and was flavorful and succulent.

Grape Restaurant, Shanghai

Located down in the French Concession near an old church, the highlight of Grape is the Youtian beef. Beef soaked in a sweet sauce is paired with fried dough chunks (elongated donut holes with a crispier exterior) and rice, of course, for a wonderful meal. An excellent, rich sauce with a nice aftertaste for a great price (about US$4).

Yang's Fry Dumplings, Shanghai

If you go to China you have to try dumplings, and in Shanghai, you have to try Yang's. Served hot from the stove sprinkled with chives and sesame seeds, these cheap snacks are a nice mix of tender seasoned meat and dough. Just be careful not to let the juice inside squirt when you bite in and burn your upper lip (I speak from experience--it's not pleasant, though the dumplings still taste just as good).

While those are so far my three favorites, one of my favorite experiences here is going into a restaurant with no English on the menu, pictures or a posted menu on the wall, and just pointing to something, handing over the right amount of money, and waiting for what will come. I know what the characters for beef, pork, rice, and noodles are, so I figure as long as I know what type of meat I'm getting and if it's over rice or noodles, the rest doesn't matter as much. So far the strategy has worked well--there's even a place nearby where I live where they recognize me and make me feel right at home even though we have no way of verbally communicating to one another.

4. Nightlife

There are lots of places to go in Shanghai in the evenings to party or to relax. I'm not much one for clubbing, but I did get out one night to a Shanghai club at the insistence of my roommate, and I loved it. You sit down at a table with a big bottle of whiskey and a mixer, in this case green tea (which, by the way, is an excellent combination) and talk, play dice games, and enjoy your company. When you want to get up and dance, your table is saved for you, providing a much needed break from the heat of the dance floor. If clubbing isn't your scene, then try Xintiandi, an expat favorite, where cafes, bars, and restaurants occupy old shikumen houses and create a nice place to relax and spend an evening among the bustling shoppers and diners. Perhaps my personal favorite though was sitting on Cloud 9 in the Jin Mao Tower and watching the sun set on the city while sipping your drink of choice. It is an excellent view and atmosphere, and a nice way to unwind after a long week.

5. The People

As a 6'1" white guy with red hair and blue eyes I tend to stick out just a little bit here. And when I'm spotted by Chinese who speak English, that means a chance to practice. Often they are fun conversations that last only as long as we happen to be walking the same way, but they are nice to get to know a bit about some of the faces I see pass by. And it's nice to make friends even if for so brief a time.

6. The Gardens

Though not very prevalent in Shanghai, as you might have guessed from a couple of my posts I have come to love Chinese gardens and embrace the philosophy behind them that all of the elements of nature--earth, water, plants, animals, and humans--exist together without one dominating the other. The manifestations of this philosophy are absolutely gorgeous gardens which reveal different vistas to you at different points on your walk, adding an air of mystery that I enjoy. I really wish there were more in Shanghai I could frequent just to relax during the weeks.

7. The Diversity of Scenes

As you may have gathered from my previous two posts, I love learning about the city and all of its different sides. From the historic Bund and the opposing futuristic neon towers of Pudong to the brand names of Nanjing Rd. and the restored shikumen of Xintiandi, I enjoy having the city morph around me as I walk. There are time when you seem just to pop out of an alley into a bustling commercial center as if into a whole new world. It adds excitement to any exploration of the city.

Those are some of my favorite things here, so now onto some of the less savory aspects of this big city because, let's face it, every city has its good and bad.

1. The Drivers

I love to walk everywhere, but have to be careful crossing streets. I don't think red lights really mean anything here, especially if you're on a scooter. Drivers go wherever cars are not, meaning that they cross center lines, move unpredictably into turn lanes, swerve around other cars to make turns from inappropriate lanes, and most importantly, don't care whether you are on foot or not--if you're in their way you had better move. The strange thing is that pedestrians and scooters who invariably would lose in collisions have the same mentality. Scooters especially are fond of going the wrong direction and running red lights. That seems a dangerous practice to me. But don't worry--I've only almost been hit once or twice. I'm limber enough to get out of the way quickly, and smart enough not to get in the way too often.

2. The Tourists

Now here I'm not talking about foreigners, because then I'd have to dislike myself. Within a day of being here, I experienced a phenomenon I hadn't known even in Africa--people want to take a picture with me just because I'm white. I've been told that many tourists to Shanghai from the Western parts of China have never seen a white guy before and so I'm a novelty. At first it was kind of fun--I felt like a celebrity. Now, it's a bit tiresome, especially when people don't ask and think instead that they can snap a clandestine photo of me by pretending to be interested in the railing of the bridge or the wall behind me. You can tell by the sheepish look on their face when you wheel around and catch them in the act what they are up to. I always oblige and let them take the photo, but often I get asked when all I want to do is sit by a pond or rock and relax lost in thought and that bothers me a bit.

3. The Prevailing Mentality

It seems here that everyone is out to advance their own personal interest only, and that means in every facet of life. This manifests itself to me in the way people drive (as discussed above) but also in cutting lines, shoving to get on subways and up escalators, and (though not visibly of course) in corruption and an unwillingness to invest in long-term efficiency because it won't manifest itself as savings during your political term and therefore won't help you get promoted. I don't know if this is a left over mentality from the great famines and shortages of the Mao era where if you didn't think about yourself only you might not live another day, or how it has come about, but I wish it would be relaxed a bit.

4. Brown Water

Don't worry, the tap water is not brown--it's nice and clear (but still don't drink it). No, what I mean here is the color of the river water. I guess it's for the best that you can't go on deck on the ferries because I don't think anyone wants to be splashed with that water. Personally, I think it detracts from the beauty of the city across the river and is a sign of environmental degradation. They're trying to improve it, so let's hope it works.

5. Smoking and Spitting

A large number of people here smoke, and many men and some women have a wonderful habit of gathering up all their mucus and letting it go on the sidewalks and streets. As much as I love to sit at outdoor cafes overlooking commercial streets when I work, sometimes the smoke gets so bad I have to go inside or leave. But that is what is popular and cool here. And then when I walk home, or anywhere, it is rare to have a long segment without overhearing someone send a big wad of spit to the ground. What baffles me most about this the fact that because many street vendors don't give you napkins, people carry tissues, but the only time I've seen them used is when people need to spit on the subway. Then they spit into the tissue after making all the associated noises.

6. Umbrellas

OK, I don't hate umbrellas, but here everyone uses them whether it's sunny or rainy. And being just a bit tall for the streets of Shanghai, the little pointy metal parts of the umbrellas which are safely above the heads of the rest of the pedestrians are comfortably at eye level. I have to constantly dodge getting poked in the eye. I guess it makes walking an adventure and keeps me awake!

Well, that's about it I believe. I hope that these three lengthy posts have given everyone an idea of what my environment is like, what I enjoy most and wish I could change about Shanghai. I hope also that they have provoked some thoughts on sustainability in this fascinating and unique place. As always, if you have any comments or questions, please comment or e-mail me (rob.best13@gmail.com) and I'm happy to respond! Since I don't know how to respond directly to comments, I typically post below the question, so if you feel as though I've neglected you, check below the comment you left, and if I still neglected you, I apologize--life can be busy here.